Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1898,  by  George  E.  Howard  & Co., 
in  the  office  of  Librarian  of  Congress,  Washington,  D.  C. 

GEORGE  E.  HOWARD  & CO.,  Publishers,  Washington,  D.  C. 


Digitized  by  the  Internet  Archive 
in  2017  with  funding  from 

University  of  Illinois  Urbana-Champaign  Alternates 


https://archive.org/details/americanfanciers00howa_0 


The  American  Fancier's 


Poultry  Book. 


BY 

GEORGE  E.  HOWARD. 


WITH  ILLUSTRATIONS 

BY  THE  AUTHOR. 

. T / 


WASHINGTON,  D.  C.: 

George  E.  Howard  & Co.,  Publishers, 
1898. 


CONTENTS. 


The  Poultry  Industry  .......  1 

General  Management  . . . . . 5 

The  Egg  . . . . . . . . .23 

Incubation  ........  25 

The  Chick  ........  39 

Recipes  for  Feeding-  ......  45 

Feeding-  for  Eggs  .......  63 

House  Building-  .......  67 

Keeping  Egg's  ........  75 

Caponizing  ........  81 

Diseases  . . . . . . . .89 

The  Breeds  ........  103 

American  Class  .......  107 

Asiatic  Class  .......  113 

Mediterranean  Class  .......  119 

Polish  Class  ........  125 

Hamburg  Class  ........  128 

French  Class  .......  131 

English  Class  ........  133 

Games  and  Game  Bantam  Class  .....  135 

Bantam  Class — Other  Than  Games  .....  141 

Miscellaneous  Class  ......  144 

Turkeys  .........  149 

Waterfowl  ........  153 

Ducks  .........  153 

Geese  .........  159 

The  Swan  ........  163 

Index  .........  167 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


* 

\ 


Andalusian  Hen 

54 

Aylesbury  Ducks 

21 

Barred  Plymouth  Rock,  Feathers  of 

87 

Barred  Plymouth  Rock  Hen 

36 

Barred  and  White  Plymouth  Rock  Cocks 

57 

Bearded  Silver  Polish  Cock 

52 

Black  Breasted  Red  Games 

140 

Black  Cayuga  Ducks 

80 

Black  Fast  India  Duck 

50 

Black  Hamburg  Pullet 

31 

Black  Langshan  Hen 

, 

100 

Black  Sumatra  Game  Cock 

44 

Black  Swan  .... 

165 

Black  Turkey 

151 

Bronze  Turkey  .... 

149 

Brooder,  Damp  and  Tank  . 

33 

Brooder,  Practical 

• 

34 

Brooder,  Plans  of 

32 

Brooder,  Tank,  Details  of 

37 

Brown  China  Goose 

7 

Brown  Leghorn  Cock  . 

14 

Buff  Leghorn  Pullet 

55 

Buff  Plymouth  Rock  Cock 

76 

Caponizing  Instruments 

81,  82,  83,  84,  85,  and  86 

Chinese  Fared  Pheasant 

22 

Collie  Dogs  .... 

166 

Coops  for  Chicks 

- 

40,  41,  and  42 

Cornish  Indian  Games 

102 

Crested  Turkey  .... 

152 

Dark  Brahma  Cock  . 

4 

Dark  Brahma  Cock 

74 

Dark  Brahma  Hen  . 

61 

Drinking  Vessels 

8 

Duckwing  Games 

115 

Fgg,  The,  Figs.  1,  2,  3,  and  4 

24 

Fgg  Testers,  Figs.  3 and  4 

26 

Fgg  Testing,  Figs.  5,  6,  7,  and  8 

26 

Fmbden  Goose 

98 

Fattening  Coop 

13 

Feathers  .... 

132 

Gallus  Bankiva  . . 

104 

Gallus  Sonnerattii  . 

105 

Gape  Worm  .... 

95 

^Gape-Worm  and  Fggs 

95 

Geese  ..... 

112 

Golden  Pheasants 

66 

Gray  Call  Duck  .... 

19 

Holding  the  Fgg,  Fig.  2 

26 

Houdans  . . . , . 

49 

House,  Cheap 

68 

House,  Cheap,  Ground  Plan 

68 

House,  Double 

69 

House,  Double,  Ground  Plan  . 

69 

‘House,  Double,  Interior  of 

70 

House,  For  Laying  Hens 

71 

House  For  Waterfowl 

160 

Houses  For  Waterfowl 

124 

House,  Good,  Figs.  1 and  2 

73 

House,  Roomy 

72 

House,  Roomy,  Ground  Plan 

73 

House,  Well  Arranged 

72 

House,  Well  Arranged,  Ground  Plan 

71 

House  With  Open  Shed 

6 

Incubation,  First  Half  Of 

27 

' W >>  '■ 


FIST  OF  IFFUSTRATIONS. 


Incubation,  Second  Half  Of  ....  28 

Incubator,  Farm  and  Garden  .....  29 

Incubator,  Youth’s  Companion  . . . . . 29 

Fight  Brahma  Cock  ......  74 

Fight  Brahma  Cock  .......  100 

Fight  Brahma  Cock  ......  117 

Fight  Brahma  Cock,  Ideal  . . . . . .59 

Fight  Brahma  Cockerel  (25  years  ago)  . . . . 58 

Fight  Brahma  Hen  .......  2 

Fight  Brahma  Hen  “ Wonder  ” .....  10 

Fight  Brahma  Pullet,  Ideal  ......  59 

Fight  Brahma  Pullet  (23*  years  ago)  . . . . 58 

Fouse  of  The  Duck  .......  93 

Fouse  of  The  Goose  ......  92 

Fouse  of  The  Hen  .......  98 

Fouse  of  The  Pigeon  ......  93 

Fouse  of  The  Turkey  .......  93 

Malay  Cock  ........  12 

Mallard  Drake  ........  9 

Mandarin  Drake  .......  38 

Marketing  Poultry,  Figs.  1 and  2 . . . .17 

Mino-Hikis,  or  Fong  Tailed  Japanese  Game  Bantams  . 16 

Muscovy  Drake  ........  56 

Narragansett  Turkey  ......  150 

Nest,  Fig.  1 ........  25 

Nests,  For  Pigeon  Foft  ......  69 

Nest,  Plan  Of  . . . * . . .6 

Oscellated  Turkey  .......  151 

Ovary  .........  97 

Oviduct  ........  94 

Partridge  Cochin  Hen  .......  51 

Pekin  Ducks  . ......  60 

Red  Cap,  Head  Of  ......  m 

Red  Pile  Game  Cock,  Ideal  Profile  Of  ...  79 

Red  Pile  Games  .......  134 

Reeves’  Pheasant  .......  n 

Respiration,  Apparatus  Of  ......  96 

Rouen  Drake  .......  91 

Scaly  Fegs  ........  99 

Shipping  Fggs,  Figs.  1 and  2 ....  18 

Silver-Gray  Dorking  Cock  ......  30 

Silver-Faced  Wyandotte  Cock  .....  2 

Silver-Faced  Wyandottes  ......  46 

Silver  Pheasant  . . . . . . 22 

Silver-Spangled  Hamburg  Cock  . . . . .48 

Silver-Spangled  Hamburg  Hen  .....  77 

Spur-Winged  Gopse  .......  3 

Sultans,  Pair  .......  20 

Vicera,  Principal,  Of  Young  Cock  . . . . .94 

White  Cochin -Cock  .....  Frontispiece. 

White-Crested  Bearded  White  Polish  . . . .43 

White-Crested  Black  Polish  Cock  ....  54 

White-Crested  Black  Polish  Hen  . . . . .99 

White-Faced  Black  Spanish  Cock  ....  15 

White-Faced  Black  Spanish  Hen  . . . . .90 

White  Holland  Turkey  ......  150 

White  Indian  Games  .......  120 

White  Feghorn  Cock  ......  64 

White  Feghorn  Hen  .......  64 

White  Feghorn  Hen  ......  127 

White  Minorca  Cock  .......  47 

White  Minorca  Hen  ......  101 

White  Swans  ........  88 

White  Wyandottes  .......  62 

Wild  Turkeys  ........  148 

Yokohama  Fowls  .......  78 


library 

OF  THE 

UiVERSITY  OF  ILLINOI 


WHITE  COCHIN  COCK. 
“Feathered  from  the  ground  up.’ 


HERE  seems  to  be  a lack  of  understanding 
as  to  the  value  of  the  poultry  industry 
in  this  country.  Few  people  realize  the 
immensity  of  the  egg-trade  as  compared  with  other  branches  of  farming. 
Claims  have  repeatedly  been  made  that  the  demand  for  eggs  has  exceed- 
ed the  supply  many  times.  Yet  there  appears  to  be  a hesitancy  on  the 
part  of  a great  many  to  enlist  their  energies  in  this  business,  even  with 
these  facts  staring  them  in  the  face. 

Statistics  have  shown  that  over  $3,000,000  are  spent  annually  in  the 
importation  of  eggs  from  foreign  countries.  This  should  be  an 
incentive  to  encouragement  of  home  products.  There  are  countless 
acres  of  barren  land  in  the  United  States  that  would  prove  excellent  for 
poultry  farms.  This  land  is  lying  idle  and  the  owners  are  losing  year 
by  year  through  their  non-appreciation  of  this  fact,  while  foreigners  are 
reaping  the  benefit. 

Belgium,  a country  about  the  size  of  the  State  of  Maryland,  with  a 
population  four  times  as  great,  produces  annually  274,967,834  eggs  ; 
about  forty-eight  eggs  for  every  man,  woman  and  child.  This  enormous 
production  is  secured  under  adverse  circumstances,  and  in  a country 
where  every  effort  is  made  to  cause  the  land  to  produce  food  for  home 
consumption. 

This  result  is  suggestive  of  the  grand  achievements  that  may  be 
compassed  in  a land  like  ours,  where  grain  enough  is  wasted  annually 
to  feed  the  population  of  Belgium. 

France,  with  an  area  of  204,147  square  miles,  of  which  only  98,460  are 
capable  of  cultivation,  realizes  more  than  2,000,000,000  francs  annually 
from  her  poultry  interests.  The  present  population  of  France  is  38,905,788 
and  if  an  equal  distribution  of  the  land  that  is  capable  of  cultivation 
were  made  there  would  be  two  acres  to  each  person. 

Notwithstanding  the  disadvantages  of  climate  and  high  cost  of  food 
for  the  fowls,  France  furnishes  England  annually  over  800,000,000  eggs. 
The  consumption  of  eggs  in  France  is  reckoned  at  about  2,000,000,000 
annually,  which,  added  to  the  large  exportation,  places  the  annual 
production  in  this  little  Republic  at  about  2,800,000,000.  The  value  of  the 
exportation  is  $13,000,000  annually,  and  the  value  of  the  eggs  consumed 
at  home  is  estimated  at  $35,000,000.  To  this  must  be  added  the  amount 
received  for  poultry  exported  and  of  that  consumed  at  home,  $75,000  000, 


2 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


and  $45,000,000  for  stock  value  carried 
over  every  year.  The  climatic  conditions 
are  inferior  in  many  respects  to  those  of 
this  country;  besides,  the  available  space 
is  much  less,  which  necessitates  extra 
care  in  attention  and  feeding  of  stock. 
The  French  poultry  farmer  realises  a 
net  profit  of  from  15  to  85  per  cent. 

Careful  inquiry  reveals  the  astounding 
fact  that  the  United  States,  instead  of 
producing  more  eggs  than  are  required 
for  home  consumption,  imports  annually 
over  $3,000,000  worth  of  eggs.  In  1S72 
the  importation  was  6,000,000  dozen 
eggs,  which,  at  twenty-four  cents  a 
dozen,  amounted  to  $1,444,000.  New 
York  State  and  city  consume  about 
$45,000,000  worth  of  poultry  and  eggs 
annually,  and  the  population  of  both 
State  and  city  is  about  5,820,871. 

Therefore,  the  United  States,  with  her 
63,000,000  population,  must  consume  $495,000,000  worth  of  eggs  each 
year,  and  in  order  to  determine  the  value  of  the  poultry  industry  we 
must  add  to  this  $63,000,000,  for  the  value  of  the  fowls  retained  for 
breeding  purposes  and  laying  stock,  and  $600,000  for  blooded  stock 
and  eggs. 

This  reveals  the  sum  total  of  this  industry  here  at  that  time  to  have 
been  $559,600,000  annually,  or  as  full  statistics  would  show,  more  than 
$600,000,000. 

For  the  year  1882,  the  following  figures  show  the  cash  value  of  the 
products  of  the  United  States  : Cotton,  $410,000,000  ; hay,  $436,000,000  ; 
dairy  products,  $254,000,000  ; poultry  and  egg  products,  $560,000,000. 
Notwithstanding  this,  the  last  is  the  only  product  that  we  do  not  export. 
Our  entire  yield,  which  is  vastly  insuf- 
ficient to  meet  the  demand,  is  all  con- 
sumed at  home ; besides,  statistics 
show  that  in  1882  we  imported  from 
foreign  countries  ■ 13,000,000  dozen 
eggs,  as  against  6,000,000  in  1872. 

While  the  Eleventh  Census  shows  a 
creditable  increase  in  the  poultry  in- 
dustry in  this  country,  still  it  is  not  yet 
all  that  could  be  desired.  The  num- 
ber of  chickens  for  the  year  1889  was 
258,472,155  ; the  number  of  other 
fowls  was  26.816,545,  and  the  number 
of  eggs  produced  was  817,211,146. 

Estimating  eggs  to  be  worth  only 
twelve  cents  a dozen,  this  would 
amount  in  round  numbers  to  $100  - 
000.000.  The  States,  in  order  named, 
l°ad  in  th^  oroduction  of  chickens  : 

Missouri,  Illinois,  Iowa,  Kansas,  Ohio.  light  brahma  hen. 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


3 


Kentucky  and  Indiana.  Ohio  is  the  banner  State  in  egg  production,  with 
Iowa  following.  Ohio  and  Missouri  lead  in  eggs  and  poultry. 

While  these  figures  afford  dry  reading,  they  are  gems  to  us  in  the 
knowledge  of  the  poultry  industry.  From  them  we  can  draw  our  con- 
clusions as  to  the  value  of  the  industry  in  the  United  States.  They 
startle  us  to  a realization  of  the  wealth  which  is  at  our  disposal  if  we 
would  cultivate  this  vast  field. 

Here,  where  we  have  so  many  natural  advantages  as  compared  with 
other  countries,  our  products  should  far  exceed  in  proportionate  value. 
These  facts  also  show  that  the  value  of  poultry  exceeds  even  wheat,  the 
greatest  agricultural  product  of  our  land,  by  over  $72,000,000. 

Poultry  and  eggs  are  favorite  food,  and  unlike  other  products,  which 
are  grown  only  in  sections,  impart  their  flavor  and  force  to  castle  and 
cottage  alike,  and  are  cultivated  to  some  degree  wherever  man  dwells  in  a 
civilized  state.  The  importance  to  the  commercial  world  of  the  industry 
in  question  cannot  be  estimated  prospectively.  When  we  consider  that 
it  is  only  in  its  infancy,  greater  should  the  exertion  be  to  increase  it  and 
reap  rich  rewards  for  ourselves. 


SPUR-WINGED  GOOSE. 


DARK  BRAHMA  COCK. 


learned  in  a day. 


HE  desire  is  natural  to  produce  the  best  results  possible 
in  any  vocation.  Imprudence  dwarfs  the  enterprise, 
and  shadows  one’s  hopes  for  success.  False  judg- 
ment as  to  the  proper  management  undermines  the 
industry.  The  business  of  poultry  raising  is  not  one 
All  men  who  enter  it  are  not  born  poultrymen,  neither 
can  they  grasp  the  opportunities  presented  when  occasion  demands.  Yet, 
by  close  study  of  the  conditions  necessary  to  success,  and  a strict  observ- 
ance of  the  duties  attached,  poultry  raising  may  be  made  profitable, 
whether  on  a large  or  small  scale. 

If  a small  stock  be  kept,  every  effort  should  be  made  to  have  it  yield 
as  much  in  proportion  as  if  the  business  were  a large  one  conducted  for 
a livelihood.  This  will  establish  a system  that  is  essential  to  the  develop- 
ment of  the  industry. 

Personal  attention  is  to  be  desired  above  all  things  in  the  manage- 
ment of  your  flock,  and  the  pleasure  derived  therefrom  will  be  added  to 
by  the  realization  of  having  advanced  financially  and  intellectually 
through  your  own  work  and  study — one  of  the  most  fascinating  pursuits 
in  which  one  can  engage. 


The  first  consideration  is  a suitable  location  for  the  poul- 
Building  try  house.  So  far  as  possible  this  should  be  built  on  an 
elevation  having  a natural  drainage.  The  best  soil  for  a 
The  House,  poultry  yard  is  sandy  or  gravelly,  as  such  ground  can  be 
kept  in  better  sanitary  condition  by  natural  absorption  and 
facilitates  easy  cleaning.  Clayey  soil  will  be  found  damp  on  account  of 
mud  and  pools  that  are  sure  to  result  from  rain. 

In  the  construction  of  the  house  there  should  be  no  lavish  display  or 
ornamentation.  It  should  be  erected  for  comfort  and  convenience.  The 
size  is  governed  by  the  number  of  fowls  to  be  kept,  and  the  arrange- 
ments of  the  interior  by  the  fancy  of  the  builder,  consistent  with  good 
handling. 

An  excellent  plan  for  a house  holding  25  fowls  is  given  in  illustra- 
tion. The  ground  plan  is  ten  by  twelve,  with  an  open  shed  attached, 
facing  south.  The  front  elevation  is  nine  feet  and  the  rear  six.  The 
roof  is  a plain  shed  roof  covered  with  tar  paper  and  stripped  on  the 
edges.  A window  and  a door  are  in  the  south  front  and  a smaller  win- 
dow is  in  the  east  side.  The  whole  house  is  built  of  one-inch  boards,  and 
the  cracks  are  covered  with  strips  to  keep  out  the  dampness  and  drafts. 


6 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


PLAN  OF  HOUSE  WITH  OPEN  SHED. 


The  floor  is  raised  six 
inches  from  the  ground  and 
is  covered  with  four  inches 
of  road-dust  to  facilitate 
cleaning,  and  give  ease  to 
the  fowls’  feet.  It  also  af- 
fords a place  in  which  they 
may  dust  themselves.  The 
floor  of  the  shed  is  also 
raised  from  the  ground  to 
the  same  level  as  that  of 
the  hpuse  ; this  is  covered 
with  four  or  five  inches  of 
straw  for  the  hens  to  scratch  in  for  the  grain  food.  This  shed  gives  shel- 
ter to  the  fowls  in  bad  weather  and  at  the  same  time  they  may  enjoy  the 
fresh  air. 

The  interior  of  the  house  is  arranged  with  inclining  roosts  and  mov- 
able nests,  so  that  cleaning  may  be  without  trouble.  Nothing  should  be 
made  stationary,  as  vermin  gather  in  cracks  and  crevices.  The  nests,  as 
shown  in  cut,  should  be  large  and  light,  and  so  built  as  to  be  easily 
handled.  There  is  no  bottom  to  them,  and  the  lattice  door  is  convenient 
when  setting  a hen  to  prevent  others  from  laying  in  the  same  nest.  This 
door  should  be  moved  once  a day  for  the  setting  hen  to  feed. 

A liberal  use  of  whitewash  on  the  exterior  and  interior  should  be 
made  twice  a year.  The  droppings  should  be  cleared  away  each  day. 
No  ventilator  should  be  used  during  the  winter,  and  in  summer  the  win- 
dows may  be  kept  open.  If  the  house  be  kept  clean  there  is  no  need  for 
ventilation,  other  than  is  found  in  the  house.  The  less  drafts  there  are 
in  the  poultry  house  the  better  it  is  for  the  fowls. 


Having  the  house  and  yard  in  readiness  for  your  flock,  the 
Selecting  next  thing  to  do  is  to  select  your  breed,  taking  into  considera- 
tion all  the  conditions  which  affect  the  raising  of  poultry  in 
a Breed,  your  location.  The  difficulties  of  poultry  raising  may  be  over- 
come in  a measure  by  the  judicious  selection  of  breeds.  If 
you  have  but  a limited  area  and  your  flock  must  be  confined  most  of  the 
time,  you  should  choose  those  breeds  which  may  be  kept  in  confinement 
with  best  results. 

The  suburban  residents  produce  a large  proportion  of  the  poultry 
and  eggs  consumed  in  this  country.  The  farmer  as  a rule  keeps 
one  flock  on  a farm  with  less  satis- 
faction than  he  who  takes  care  of 
one  in  confinement.  The  best  egg 
records  are  from  those  flocks  which 
have  been  kept  in  yards  instead  of 
having . an  altogether  free  range. 

More  labor  is  required,  of  course,  to 
manage  flocics  in  confinement,  yet 
this  is  made  up  for  in  the  increased 
egg-yield  and  saving  in  the  cost  of 
the  range. 

The  Leghorns,  Hamburgs,  Minor- 
cas,  Polish  and  Houdans  are  true 
rangers,  and  an  extra  degree  of  care 


PLAN  OF  NEST. 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


7 


is  needed  to  provide  them  with  litter  for  scratching  to  satisy  their  rest- 
less natures  where  their  range  is  a small  one.  The  Plymouth  Rocks  and 
Wyandottes  belong  to  the  middle  class,  as  it  were,  and  will  give  great 
satisfaction  either  for  confinement  or  on  a free  range.  The  Brahmas  and 
Cochins  are  strictly  fowls  for  confinement,  and  will  naturally  do  better 
under  that  condition  than  any  other  class. 

The  great  difference  of  opinion  regarding  the  best  breeds  for  special 
purposes  causes  much  doubt  to  exist  as  to  those  to  be  chosen.  The 
surroundings  of  the  breeder  necessitate  a careful  study  of  the  various 
points  of  excellence  of  the  fowls  best  suited  to  the  purpose  in  view. 
Success  in  the  poultry  business  depends  much  upon  proper  selection. 

If  eggs  are  to  be  made  the  principal  source  of  income,  one  of  the 
non-sitting  breeds  will  be  found  the  best.  These  are  the  first  mentioned. 
The  middle  class  may  be  looked  to  for  fair  laying  qualities,  are  hardy  and 
early  maturing  birds,  and  make  a fine  dish.  In  the  latter  class  are 
the  large  birds  that  are  intended  for  table  purposes.  They  are 
easily  kept  on  limited  range  and  are  rated  as  the  best  winter  layers. 


A perfectly  regular  system  of  feeding  should  be  adhered  to. 
Regular  Nothing  perhaps  is  more  beneficial  to  the  condition  of  the  fowl. 

After  careful  consideration  adopt  a system  of  feeding  which 
Feeding,  best  commends  itself  under  the  conditions.  The  fowls  will 
become  accustomed  to  the  hours  of  their  meals,  and  will  look 
for  them.  This  intelligence  is  natural  to  all  mundane  beings,  and  the 
more  it  is  encouraged  with  dumb  animals,  the  easier  it  will  be  to  control 
them  and  keep  yourself  informed  as  to  their  respective 
conditions.  Feeding  at  irregular  intervals  begets  rest- 
lessness among  the  flocks  that  must  necessarily  impair 
their  cofistitutions  and  cause  deterioration  in  their 
value.  Between  regular  hours  of  feeding  they  are  bet- 
ter contented  among  themselves,  and  the  more  readily 
follow  out  their  natural  inclinations. 

A great  error  is  made  by  some  in  al~ 

Over-Feeding,  ways  keeping  troughs  and  bins  filled 
with  feed. 

This  practice  is  not  only 
a waste,  but  an  obstacle 
to  egg-production.  The 
hens  are  tempted  to  eat 
and  as  a consequence, 
not  getting  the  necessary 
exercise  by  scratching, 
they  become  lazy  and 
too  fat. 

No  fixed  rules,  as  we 
have  said,  can  be  made 
for  the  quantity  of  food 
that  is  necessary  for  the 
best  results.  Naturally, 
fat-forming  foods  can  be 
given  to  a greater  extent 
to  fowls  having  a free 

range.  An  over-fed  hen  brown  china  goose. 


8 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


becomes  egg-bound,  lays  soft  eggs,  or  ceases  to  lay  except  for  very  short 
periods  ; besides,  being  induced  to  become  broody  more  frequently  than 
normal. 

The  estimate  is  made  that  a hen  will  eat  five  pecks  of  corn  in  a year, 
or  forty  quarts.  How  to  divide  this  up  or  lessen  the  corn  when  other 
foods  are  given,  is  left  to  the  breeder  to  determine,  as  everything  depends 
on  how  much  food  other  than  corn  he  gives,  which  must  be  deducted 
from  the  corn.  A laying  hen  should  not  be  fat ; her  food  must  be  rich 
in  nitrogen  and  the  phosphates. 


Too  much  emphasis  cannot  be  given  to  this  consideration. 
Exercise.  Make  your  hens  scratch  and  work, if  you  do  not  want  them  over- 
fat or  to  die  on  the  roost  from  apoplexy.  The  best  methods  of 
giving  exercise  are  by  scattering  the  food,  and  by  burying  it  in  the  litter 
on  the  floor.  While  egg-producing  fowls  may  be  fed  from  hand,  as  it 
were,  exercise  will  be  far  more  satisfactory  in  the  end.  Good  digestion  is 
an  important  factor  in  egg-producing,  and  exercise  promotes  digestion. 


cW. 


Fib-  d. 


In  every  100  parts  of  an  egg  84  are  water.  An  abundant 
Th>  Supply  supply  of  pure  water  at  all  times  is  conducive  to  the  health 
of  the  fowls,  and  in  no  case  should  this  be  neglected.  Many 
S'i  Water,  are  of  the  opinion  that  fresh  water  is  such  a necessity  that 
the  fountains  should  be  replenished  two  or  three  times  a 
It  may  be  well  to  put  stress  upon  this,  but  it  is  hardly  necessary  to 
follow  such  rules.  If  the  water  is  properly  supplied 
once  a day  that  is  all  that  is  needed  to  give  drink  for 
the  fowls.  Drinking  vessels  are  used  as  a proper  means 
of  supplying  the  water,  and  in  warm  weather  they 
should  be  so  placed  as  to  protect  them  from  the  hot 
rays  of  the  sun,  and  in  cold  weather  means  should  be 
used  to  keep  the  water  free  from  ice,  and,  if  possible, 

at  a temperature  of  about 
sixty  degrees.  Sinks  or 
stagnant  pools  are  to  be 
avoided.  Pans  and  shal- 
low dishes  are  unfit  for 
drinking  vessels,  as  the 
water  becomes  stale  and 
dirty  in  a short  time. 

In  the  fountain  drink- 
ing vessels  only  a small 
portion  of  the  water  is 
exposed,  and  fresh  water 
replaces  that  which  is  used.  The 
is  that  shown  in  Fig.  1.  This  is  easily 
can,  or  similar  can,  with  one  end  open; 


Fto^j. 


DRINKING  VESSELS. 


most  common  fountain  in  use 
made.  Take  an  empty  tomato 
puncture  several  small  holes  about  one-half  inch  from  the  edge;  fill  with 
water,  and  place  a dish  or  pan  on  it;  then  quickly  invert  it.  The  water 
will  fill  the  dish  to  the  height  of  the  holes,  and  the  same  amount  of  water 
will  be  kept  in  the  dish  until  the  supply  in  the  can  is  exhausted. 

A larger  fountain  may  be  made  from  a water-tight  keg,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  2.  In  the  head  of  the  keg  bore  a hole  about  three-quarters  of  an 
inch  in  diameter  and  about  two  inches  from  the  edge.  To  the  outer  edge 
of  the  keg  attach  zinc  mouth  piece  A,  as  shown  in  the  illustration.  On 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


9 


each  side  of  the  keg  place  two  pegs  to  serve  as  legs  and  keep  it  from 
rolling  to  one  side.  The  keg  is  filled  by  standing  on  end  and  pouring 
the  water  in  at  the  hole  at  the  mouth.  A handy  and  convenient  fountain 
can  be  made  from  an  old  bucket.  Candy  or  fine-cut  tobacco  buckets 
answer  the  purpose  very  well.  Cut  two  or  three  holes  in  the  side,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  3,  down  to  the  first  hoop.  Brace  the  lid  with  strips  to  keep 
them  from  warping,  and  attach  to  the  lid  a small  hinge  to  keep  it  in 
place.  This  affair  is  cheap  and  any  one  can  make  it.  The  water  is 
entirely  free  from  dirt,  and  when  kept  in  a cool,  shady  place,  it  will 
answer  every  purpose. 

In  winter  when  the  weather  is  very  cold,  the  fountains  should  be 
emptied  at  night  to  prevent  freezing.  The  water  used  for  filling  them 
should  be  heated  to  about  sixty  degrees.  Fowls  generally  drink  when 
first  coming  from  the  roosts  in  the  morning,  and  it  is  advisable  to  give 
them  warm  water,  which  acts  as  a tonic  to  their  system.  In  cold  damp 
weather  place  a few  drops  of  iron  in  the  water;  it  is  well  also  to  add  a 
few  drops  of  sulphuric  acid  to  the  iron.  The  proportion  in  this  tonic 
should  be  a lump  of  the  sulphate  of  iron  about  the  size  of  a hazel  nut, 
and  about  three  drops  of  the  sulphuric  acid  to  the  gallon  of  water. 
This  tonic  should  also  be  used  during  the  moulting  period,  to  assist  the 
fowls  through  this  most  trying  period. 


MALLARD  DRAKE. 


The  shell  of  an  egg  contains  about  fifty  grains 
Oyster  Shells  of  the  salts  of  lime,  or  about  twenty  grains  of  pure 
uncombined  lime,  besides  the  lime  that  is  in  the 
and  Grit.  mineral  matter  of  the  white  and  yolk.  A reference  to  the 
chapter  on  “Feeding  for  Eggs”  will  show  the  foods  that 
are  richest  in  lime  as  substance  for  the  shell.  The  quality  of  the  shell 
should  be  considered  when  feeding,  by  selecting  those  foods  which  are 
richest  in  lime.  To  produce  the  shell  of  one  egg  there  is  needed  100 
grains  of  lime. 

Repeated  experiments  have  proven  that  oyster  shells  are  not  a necess- 
ity for  shell  material,  but  at  the  same  time  valuable  as  grit.  The  feeding 
of  oyster  shells  during  the  laying  period  is  to  be  recommended.  One 
pound  of  crushed  oyster  shell  contains  lime  enough  for  about  seven 
dozen  eggs.  Fine  gravel  containing  limestone  will  probably  as  well 


10 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER'S 


LIGHT  BRAHMA  HEN,  “WONDER.” 


supply  the  deficiency  of  lime  existing  in  most  foods,  but  use  of  the 
sharper  grits  with  it  may  be  well. 

Long  or  sharp  splinters  of  glass  or  dry  bone  should  be  avoided  in 
the  grit  furnished.  The  size  of  the  particles  of  grit  had  better  be  larger 
than  a kernel  of  wheat  and  smaller  than  a kernel  of  corn.  An  unlimited 
supply  of  well-pounded  glass  has  been  found  to  produce  no  bad  results 
where  the  food  and  the  grit  accessible  to  the  fowls  contains  an  abund- 
ance of  lime  ; but  where’the  food  is  deficient  in  lime,  and  no  other  grit 
is  obtainable,  hens  eat  an  injuriously  large  quantity  of  glass.  There 
should  always  be  an  abundance  of  grit  within  easy  reach  of  the  fowls;  a 
deficiency  will  retard  the  digestion  and  weaken  the  constitution. 

No  season  is  more  severe  upon  the  fowls  than  the  moulting 
Moulting,  time.  The  greatest  of  care  must  be  taken  to  keep  them  in 
good  condition.  It  is  a drain  on  their  vital  powers  to  furnish 
the  material  for  a full  coat  of  new  feathers.  There  is  apt  to  be  a laxity 
of  attention  to  their  feeding  during  this  period  on  account  of  their  cessa- 
tion of  laying,  when  in  fact  there  should  be  more  care  taken.  It  is  a 
good  plan  to  select  all  the  fowls  that  it  is  desired  to  winter  or  keep  for 
breeding,  and  market  the  balance.  This  will  cut  down  the  expense  of 
the  moulting  season.  Hens  which  moult  early,  if  they  are  in  good  con- 
dition and  are  comfortably  housed,  will  nearly  always  make  the  best 
winter  layers,  while  the  later  moulters  will  rarely  lay  until  spring.  These 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


11 


Mistakes  are  often  made  in  the  use  of  condi- 
Condiments.  ments,  egg  foods  and  condition  powders.  Each 
of  these  have  their  separate  use;  so  that  in  the 
use  of  them  precaution  should  be  taken  that  those  fowls 
treated  for  a certain  complaint  should  be  conditioned  alike 
and  that  all  do  not  need  the  same  remedy.  Condition  pow- 
ders are  not  intended  for  healthy  fowls,  but  as  a medicine  for 
those  unwell.  Egg  foods  and  condition  powders  give  good  results  where 
the  flock  is  lacking  in  hardiness  or  health,  but  the  best  course  is  to  give 
no  medicines,  unless  absolutely  needed,  and  they  are  not  likely  to  be 
needed  if  proper  care  is  taken  with  the  birds.  Yet,  by  judicious  use 
when  necessary  they  may  be  made  to  be  of  great  service.  On  cold  or 
wet  days  they  often  obviate  ill  effects;  birds  that  need  medicines  or  stim- 
ulants should  be  singled  out  and  treated  by  themselves;  you  might  as 
well  give  poison  to  all  at  once  as  to  treat  the  whole  flock  indiscriminately 
because  a few  are  affected.  This  reference  to  the  use  of  what  are  the 
poultryman’s  best  friends  at  times  is  only  made  to  prevent  their  abuse  as 
daily  foods. 


latter  should  have  a 
place  where  they  can 
keep  warm  and  dry, 
and  be  given  an  abund- 
ance of  nutritious  food. 

The  period  of  moult- 
ing may  be  shortened 
by  careful  attention, 
and  a supply  of  food 
rich  in  muscle,  bone 
and  feather  forming 
materials  rather  than 
fat-making  foods.  Al- 
ways provide  pure, 
fresh  water  and  keep 
the  quarters  clean. 
Wheat,  oats,  linseed 
meal,  bone  meal,  meat 
scraps, and  freshground 
bone  make  better  foods 
at  this  time  than  corn 
or  anything  that  may  be  considered  a fattening  ration.  While 
it  may  not  be  best  to  feed  the  chickens  all  they  will  eat, 
in  nearly  all  cases  liberal  feeding  and  the  supplying  of  a good 
variety  will  be  found  the  most  desirable  thing  to  do.  The 
hens  need  to  take  sufficient  exercise  to  be  healthy.  In  many 
cases  a good  plan  is  to  give  them  a tonic,  and  nothing  is 
better  than  Douglas’  Mixture  in  their  drinking  water,  or  a 
few  drops  of  iron  may  be  substituted.  If  these  are  not  easily 
gotten,  a few  rusty  nails  thrown  into  the  drinking  vessel  will 
answer. 


REEVES  PHEASANT. 


Of  course,  it  .is  necessary  that  some  kind  of  stimulant  be  used  as 
seasoning  at  times.  The  prepared  foods  for  poultry  are  insipid  when 
compared  to  the  pungent  flavors  of  grasses,  buds,  seeds,  and  herbs, 


12 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


which,  with  worms,  make  up  the  food  of  fowls  in  a wild  state.  In  winter 
especially  we  must  supply  their  wants  entirely,  so  the  addition  of  cayenne 
pepper,  horse-radish,  ginger,  mustard,  and  a variety  of  spices  to  the 
morning  meal  is  helpful  to  the  birds  in  confinement,  or  those  unable  to 
find  outdoor  picking.  By  properly  administering  the  seasoning  the 
troubles  of  the  winter  season  may  be  alleviated.  We  give  below  the 
recipes  which  have  been  used  with  good  effect  : 

No.  I.  Liquorice,  two  ounces;  ginger,  two;  cayenne  pepper,  one  ; 
aniseseed,  one-half  ; pimento,  two  ; sulphate  of  iron,  one.  Powder  and 
mix. 


No.  II.  Cassia  bark,  one  and  one-half  ounce  ; ginger,  five  ; gentian,, 
one-half;  aniseseed,  one-half*  carbonate  of  iron, two  and  one-half.  Pow- 
der and  mix. 

No.  III.  Peruvian  bark, 
two  ounces;  citrate  of  iron, 
one;  gentian,  one;  pimen- 
to, two ; cayenne  pepper, 
one.  Powder  and  mix. 

No.  IV.  Cascarilla  bark, 
two  ounces;  aniseseed, one- 
half  ; pimento,  one  ; malt 
dust,  two  ; carbonate  of 
iron,  one.  Powder  and 
mix. 

The  first  powder  is  chief- 
ly used  for  a sudden  cold. 

The  second  will  be  found 
excellent  as  a tonic  in  wet 
or  cold  weather,  or  for 
young  turkeys.  The  last 
is  somewhat  like  the  first, 
and  is  preferable  for  more 
continued  use  when  re- 
quired for  preparing  fowls 
for  exhibition.  -As  a re- 
storative after  exhibition 
No.  Ill  is  effective.  The 
No.  IV  may  be  mixed  with 
sugar  at  discretion,,  in  the 
proportion  of  three  parts 
sugar  to  one  of  the  pow- 
der. This  will  assist  in 
making  weight  and  it  is  liked  by  the  fowls,  but  too  raw  a quality  must 
not  be  used  or  purging  will  surely  result.  In  using  these  condiments 
enough  should  be  added  to  the  soft  food  to  give  a slight  characteristic 
taste  only  ; except  on  special  occasions,  as  a medicine  rather  than  a 
tonic,  give  as  much  as  will  lay  on  a ten  cent  piece  made  into  a small 


MALAY  COCK. 


pill  with  butter  and  meal. 

One  of  the  best  tonics  for  fowls  is  Douglas’  mixture,  an  old  and 
well-tried  recipe.  It  is  : Sulphuric  acid,  one-half  ounce  ; copperas,  six  ; 
rain  water,  four.  A tablespoonful  to  six  quarts  of  water  in  the  drinking 
vessel.  If  the  birds  have  a cold  or  are  out  of  sorts,  its  effects  are 
marvelous. 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


IS 


Fowls  that  are  intended  for  table  or  market  may  be  fattened 
Fattening  and  increased  in  weight  if  desirable.  Such  poultry  in  the 
markets  always  find  a ready  sale  and  a fair  price.  Properly 
Poultry,  kept  fowls  are  of  course  generally  in  good  condition  for  the 
table  at  any  age,  but  we  may  increase  the  amount  of  flesh  and 
make  it  firmer,  so  that  the  birds  will  dress  to  better  advantage.  There 
are  always  culls  in  every  flock,  besides  the  surplus  stock  that  must  be 
disposed  of. 

number  to  place  in 
a coop  is  ten,  or 
perhaps  a dozen. 
Better  results  ac- 
crue when  there  is 
no  over-crowding, 
and  only  fowls  that 
have  run  together 
should  be  put  to- 
gether, otherwise 
their  disagree- 
ments will  prevent 
increase  of  weight. 
The  coop  must  be 


FATTENING  COOP. 


It  is  suggested 
that  the  birds  in- 
tended for  thepur- 
poses  mentioned 
be  removed  from 
the  yards,  and 
placed  in  a coop 
like  that  sho\frfi  in 
the  cut.  This  may 
be  of  any  size  de- 
sired, according  to 
the  number  of 
fowls  to  be  fat- 
tened. A good 

so  arranged  as  to  be  kept  perfectly  dry  and  free  trom  drafts,  and  it  should 
have  a cover  of  canvas  to  draw  down  and  keep  the  inmates  in  darkness. 
The  coop  should  be  closed  on  three  sides  and  have  a slatted  front.  It 
should  be  thoroughly  cleaned  before  placing  the  chickens  therein. 

Several  hours  should  elapse  before  food  is  given.  The  birds,  natur- 
ally fretful  at  their  confinement,  refuse  to  eat  heartily  if  allowed  food  at 
first;  whereas,  by  fasting  them  at  first  they  begin  to  eat  as  soon  as  food 
is  thrown  them.  Be  sure  to  feed  only  what  they  will  eat  up  clean. 
Always  keep  a fresh  supply  of  water  before  them.  After  feeding  the 
covering  should  be  drawn  down  and  the  birds  left  without  light  until  an 
hour  before  next  meal. 

Punctuality  in  feeding  will  avert  annoyance  among  the  birds.  Bar- 
ley meal,  oatmeal,  buckwheat  meal,  mixed  with  milk,  is  an  excellent  food 
for  fattening.  Another  good  mash  is  wheat  meal  with  potatoes,  one  part 
of  each,  into  which,  while  hot,  stir  a pound  of  common  lard,  beef  tallow 
or  sweet  chandler’s  scraps,  to  six  or  eight  quarts  of  the  mash.  This 
should  be  fed  warm  Place  a basin  of  grit  or  coarse  gravel  handy,  to 
assist  digestion,  and  occasionally  mix  a little  powdered  charcoal  in  the 
soft  food  to  purify  it,  and  guard  against  souring  in  the  crop. 

Under  this  treatment  fowls  will  be  ready  for  dressing  in  two  01 
three  weeks.  The  birds  should  be  kept  as  still  as  possible  in  these  com- 
pact coops  while  the  process  of  fattening  is  going  on  ; no  exercise  what- 
ever is  to  be  given  them.  We  will  make  no  recognition  of  the  French 
method  of  cramming,  as  we  consider  it  unnatural  and  unprofitable. 

Boiled  grain  food  may  be  fed  to  fattening  fowls  with  advantage. 
This  is  prepared  by  boiling  the  grain  in  water  until  soft  enough  to  be 
easily  bruised  between  the  fingers.  At  this  stage  the  grain  has  swollen 
so  that  the  farina,  splitting  the  membrane  which  surrounds  it,  gives  it  a 
bursted  appearance.  Fowls  generally  prefer  cooked  food  to  dry  food, 
and  they  thrive  and  grow  fat  quicker  upon  it.  Besides  the  decided  gain 
in  the  bulk  of  food  treated  in  this  way,  its  nutritive  value  is  also  increased. 


14 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


The  following  shows  the  comparisons  of  grain  in  bulk  : Four  pints 
of  oats  boiled  will  fill  a pint  measure  seven  times.  Four  pints  of  barley 
boiled  will  fill  the  same  measure  ten  times.  Four  pints  of  wheat  boiled 
will  fill  it  ten  times.  Four  pints  of  buckwheat  boiled  will  fill  it  fifteen 
times.  Four  pints  of  rye  boiled  will  fill  it  fifteen  times. 

A practical  diet  of  cooked  food  for  fattening  will  prove  of  benefit  to 
the  birds,  and  they  will  thrive  better  on  a variety  of  food. 


BROWN  LEGHORN  COCK. 


To  the  fancier  who  breeds  for  points,  and  the  practical 
In=Breeding.  breeder  who  breeds  for  qualities, the  laws  governing  breeding 
mean  two  different  things.  This  subject  is  one  over  which 
there  is  much  contention, and  it  needs  to  be  thoroughly  studied  by  actual  ob- 
servation to  be  understood.  Many  examples  are  known  where  the  effect 
of  the  male  on  the  progeny  after  the  first  copulation  with  the  hen,  ex- 
tends through  the  larger  part,  if  not  the  whole,  of  her  life.  This  knowl- 
edge has  been  skillfully  used  by  breeders  in  cases  where  it  is  desired  to 
infuse  into  the  breed  some  special  qualities  of  another  breed,  such  as 
hardiness  of  constitution,  special  markings  of  plumage,  etc.  A cross  thus 
thrown  in  and  bred  out  again  may  be  quickly  accomplished  by  this 
means.  There  is  a tendency  for  characteristics  of  remote  ancestors  to 
reappear  in  their  descendants,  although  but  slightly  manifested,  if  at  all, 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


15 


in  near  descendants 
There  is  a tendency  to  re- 
turn to  the  original  types 
of  structure  and  character. 

Mating  fowls  that  are 
near  kin  is  strongly  con- 
demned by  some  practical 
breeders, but  this  remating 
of  the  offspring  to  the 
parent  stock  may  be  suc- 
cessfully accomplished  to 
the  improvement  of  the 
flock.  The  first  approach 
to  this  method  should  not 
be  so  closely  allied  as 
brothers  and  sisters,  but 
for  the  first  season  there 
need  be  no  hesitancy  in 
pairing  a hen  with  her 
chicks.  The  harm  of  in- 
breeding  is  the  constant 
repetition  without  any  re- 
gard to  selection;  this  is 
undoubtedly  dangerous  to 
the  flock  and  certainly  re- 
duces the  size  of  the  birds 
and  impairs  their  constitu- 
tions. 

When  fresh  blood  is 
needed  in  a flock,  the  best  pl^n  is  to  purchase  a vigorous  cockerel  from 
some  reliable  breeder  of  the  same  strain  of  fowls,  and  mate  him  with  the 
females  of  your  flocks.  In  selecting  the  cockerel  be  careful  of  his  pedi- 
gree, and  watchful  that  the  stock  from  which  he  is  purchased  has  not 
been  subjected  to  in-breeding  to  any  great  extent.  New  blood  thus 
infused  in  the  flock  will  surely  show  its  good  results  directly.  The 
influence  of  new  blood  is  extremely  encouraging  to  the  breeder,  as  it  is 
the  foundation  on  which  the  life  and  hope  of  hardy  constitutions  depend. 

Drawn  poultry  has  heretofore  been  the  most  popu- 
Drawn  and  lar  for  shipping  purposes.  Experience  has  proven 
that  the  safest  and  best  way  to  ship  poultry  is  in  the 
Undrawn  Poultry,  undrawn  state,  as  the  following  examples  will  show: 

On  February  5th  two  turkeys  were  killed  ; the  intes- 
tines of  one  were  removed;  the  other  was  left  undrawn.  The  birds  were 
hung  in  a room  where  the  temperature  was  about  the  same  as  that  out- 
side. On  February  12th  there  was  a slight  odor  from  the  drawn  turkey, 
while  the  other  showed  no  signs  of  any  change.  On  February  13th,  the 
drawn  turkey  had  a stale  smell  and  began  to  drip.  Still  there  was  no 
apparent  change  in  the  undrawn  one.  February  14th  there  was  consider- 
able odor  from  the  drawn  one,  but  there  was  no  evidence  of  decay  from 
the  undrawn  one.  The  flesh  was  removed  from  the  breasts  of  both  birds 
on  the  15th.  The  meat  from  the  drawn  turkey  gave  forth  a strong,  dis- 
agreeable odor,  while  that  from  the  undrawn  was  sweet  and  fresh.  On 
the  16th  both  turkeys  were  laid  open,  and  the  drawn  turkey  was  in  a bad 


16 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


Dressing  and 
Marketing  Poultry. 

than  for  marketing. 


state  of  decay,  while  the  undrawn  bird  was  found  to  be  in  excellent  con- 
dition, not  the  slightest  decomposition  being  discernible.  These  obser- 
vations are  conclusive  proof  that  undrawn  poultry  is  the  best  for  shipping. 

The  condition  of  dressed  poultry  when  sent  to  the 
market  largely  determines  the  price.  Frequently 
poultry  raisers  complain  of  the  low  price  they  get 
for  their  chickens  when  in  truth  the  specimens  sent 
should  have  been  used  for  home  consumption  rather 
Poultry  which  makes  a good  show  always  meets  a 
ready  sale  and  brings  good  profits.  Poultry  dressed  and  packed  in  every 
conceivable  way,  without  regard  to  appearances,  seldom  pays  the  shipper 
for  his  trouble,  and,  as  a rule,  he  literally  has  to  give  it  away  to  get 
it  off  his  hands.  This  is  wrong.  A few  poor  birds  in  a crate  of  good 
ones  ruin  the  sale  of  the  whole  lot  as  first-class  birds,  and  injure  the 
reputation  of  the  shipper.  It  would  be  better  to  throw  away  the  abso- 
lutely poor  ones  than  to  lower  the  price  that  may  be  realized  from  the  sale 
of  the  good  ones. 

The  best  way  to 
kill  poultry  is  that 
way  which  causes 
instant  death  with- 
out disfigurement  or 
pain.  Suspend  the 
chicken  by  tying  the 
legs  firmly  to  a pole 


MINO  HIKIS,  OR  LONG  TAILED  JAPANESE  GAME  BANTAMS. 


or  heavy  wire  across  the  killing  room  at  a convenient  distance  from  the 
floor.  Open  the  fowl’s  beak  with  a sharp-pointed,  narrow-bladed  knife, 
and  make  an  incision  at  the  back  of  the  roof  of  the  mouth,  dividing  the 
vertebra.  Another  painless  way  of  killing  is  to  sever  the  veins  in  the 
neck,  and  leave  hanging  until  properly  bled. 

Keep  fowls  without  food  for  at  least  twenty-four  hours  before  kill- 
ing, as  full  crops  injure  the  appearance  and  are  likely  to  sour.  This  of 
course  lowers  the  value  of  the  bird. 

Dry-picked  fowls  present  a plumper  appearance  when  dressed;  be- 
sides, the  feathers  may  be  thus  saved  for  marketing.  In  order  to  realize 
the  best  prices  for  feathers  they  should  be  kept  separate;  that  is,  each 
kind  and  color,  as  well  as  the  large  and  small,  should  be  kept  apart. 
When  dry  picking  is  done  it  is  necessary  that  the  feathers  be  taken  off 
while  the  body  is  still  warm;  the  sooner  the  easier  and  better  the  work 
can  be  done,  and  with  less  danger  of  tearing  the  skin.  Pull  the  tail  and 
wing  feathers  first;  then  those  on  thd  breast  and  back,  finishing  with  the 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


17 


legs.  Sort  them  out  as  picked  and  keep 
dry  and  clean.  After  taking  off  the  first 
feathers  clean  the  fowls  carefully,  wash 
out  with  cold  water,  and  then  hang  up 
to  drain  out  and  cool. 
fig  i.  If  the  fowls  are  to  be  scalded  before 

picking  have  the  water  near  the  boiling  point.  Take  the  fowl  by  the  legs 
and  dip  carefully  into  the  water,  lifting  up  two  or  three  times  in  order 
to  wet  thoroughly.  Take  out  whenever  the  tail  or  wing  feathers  will 
pull  easily. 

It  is  essential  that  all  animal  heat  should  be  out  before  packing. 
More  loss  is  occasioned  by  failure  to  see  to  this  than  by  any  other 
cause.  A good  plan  is  to  kill  and  dress  the  fowls  late  in  the  evening; 
then  hang  up  over  night. 

For  packing  poultry  provide  boxes,  for  they  are  preferable  to  barrels. 
Place  a layer  of  rye  or  wheat  straw  thoroughly  cleaned  from  dust  on  the 
bottom.  Commence  packing  by  bending  the  head  of  the  first  fowl  under 
the  body  (see  Fig.  i.)  Then  lay  it  in  the  left  hand  corner  of  the  box, 
with  head  against  the  end  of  the  box  and  back  up.  Continue  in  the 
same  manner  until  the  row  at  the  end  of  the  box  is  filled.  Then  begin 
the  second  row,  letting  the  head  of  the  first  bird  of  that  row  pass  up 
between  the  two  adjoining  birds,  which  will  make  the  whole  solid  and 
firm  (see  Fig  2.)  In  packing  the  last  row  reverse  the  order,  placing  the 
head  against  the  other  end  of  the  box,  letting  the  feet  pass  under  each 
other.  Fill  the  spaces  left  with  straw.  Over  this  first  packing  put  a 
layer  of  straw  thick  enough  to  prevent  the  birds  coming  in  contact  with 
the  next  packing.  Add  other  birds  in  the  same  way  until  the  box  is 
filled.  Care  should  be  taken  that  the  box  is  full  enough  to  pre- 
clude disarrangement  in  transit.  It  would  be  advisable  for  those 
who  have  extra  fine  fowls  to  wrap  each  one  separately  in  manilla  paper 
before  packing.  This  will  prevent  dust  and  straw  adhering,  and  will  add 
much  to  their  appearance.  The  box  should  have  the  initials  of  the  con- 
signor, the  number  and  variety  of  con- 
tents, as  well  as  the  name  and  address 
of  the  consignee  marked  on  it. 

Eggs  intended  for  market 
Shipping  should  be  gathered  daily  and 
cleaned  of  all  spots  and  dirt 
Eggs.  before  placing  in  the  crates 
for  shipment.  Abetter  price 
can  be  had  for  eggs  that  are  clean  and 
neat  in  appearance,  than  for  eggs  that 
are  sold  as  gathered  from  the  nests. 

Before  crating  the  eggs  assort  them  in 
colors  and  place  as  far  as  possible  eggs 
of  the  same  color  in  each  crate.  That 
is,  place  all  white  shell  eggs  in  one 
crate  and  all  brown  shell  eggs  in 
another.  By  assorting  them  in  this 
manner  they  meet  with  a more  ready 
sale  than  when  all  colors  are  mixed 
together  as  is  the  usual  custom.  Eggs 
that  are  cleaned  and  assorted  are 


18 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


classed  as  “fancy  stock,”  and  usually  claim  regular  patronage  at  advanced 
prices. 

There  are  many  ways  of  packing  eggs  for  shipment,  but  the  most 
reliable  as  well  as  the  most  practical  method  is  in  crates  as  shown  in  the 

divide  the  tiers  in 


illustrations.  Fig. 
i shows  a case  that 
any  one  can  make, 
and  it  may  be  used 
to  an  advantage. 
Any  size  box  may 
be  used  for  this 
purpose;  make 
paste-board  par- 
titions to  fit  the  in- 
side of  the  box  ; 
have  a partition  for 
each  layer  of  eggs 
in  the  box.  Cut 
strips  of  paste- 
boa  rd  a littlelarger 
than  the  egg,  to 


rows,  preventing 
the  eggs  frorn  com- 
ing in  contact  and 
breaking.  Over 
each  layer  place 
cut  straw  or  excel- 
sior to  fill  up  the 
spaces  around  the 
eggs  and  the  edge 
of  the  box.  Repeat 
this  until  the  box 
is  full;  then  secure- 
ly fasten  down  the 
cover  and  address 
the  box  to  whom 
it  is  to  be  sent. 


The  suspension  egg  carrier,  as  shown  in  Fig.  2,  is  probably  the  most 
secure.  This  carrier  consists  of  an  outside  case  or  crate,  in  which  are 
fitted  a number  of  trays  with  cord  laced  through  the  side  and  ends, 
dividing  the  spaces  into  small  squares,  which  make  a delicate  spring  and 
responds  to  the  slightest  jar.  Rows  of  pockets  are  suspended  from  the 
cord  work,  giving  each  a separate  apartment  so  arranged  that  no  jar  or 
jolt  the  carrier  may  receive  can  cause  one  egg  to  strike  another.  By 
crating  eggs  in  this  manner  it  affords  a free  circulation  of  air  around 
them,  which  prevents  spoiling  in  warm  weather.  There  is  also  a pro- 
tector to  cover  each  layer  of  eggs  which  keeps  the  eggs  in  position  should 
the  carrier  be  overturned.  These  carriers  are  made  of  various  sizes. 
Eggs  shipped  in  them  are  sold  to  the  purchaser  without  recounting. 
The  size  usually  used  contains  thirty  dozen. 


FIG.  2. 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


19 


Warm  Weather 

Management. 

HE  poultryman’s  hopes  rise  at  the  first  signs  of 
spring  to  the  heights  of  expectation  for  the  coming 
season.  There  are  many  things  to  do,  and  the  doing 
of  them  properly  calls  for  all  the  knowledge  obtain- 
able, if  anticipations  are  to  be  realized.  No  time  can 
be  lost  in  beginning  the  spring  cleaning,  mating  the  breeding 
stock  and  hatching  the  broods  which  are  to  be  the  source  of 
profit.  Energy  and  system  at  this  time  will  operate  satisfactorily, 
and  to  the  advantage  of  the  breeder  and  his  flocks. 

Operations  should  commence  with  the  cleaning  of  the  house  and 
yard  after  the  winter  use,  to  adapt  them  for  warm  weather  purposes. 
Begin  by  cleaning  every  nook  and  corner  and  brushing  all  dust  away. 
Clear  the  floor  of  litter,  and  replace  with  clean  material;  empty  all  the 
nests  and  see  that  no  filth  is  left  to  breed  vermin;  remove  all  nest  boxes 
and  roost  poles  from  the  house  and  cleanse  them  with  kerosene;  white- 
wash the  nest  boxes  inside  and  outside.  After  the  house  has  been  cleared 
apply  a liberal  coat  of  whitewash,  containing  a small  amount  of  crude 
carbolic  acid,  to  every  portion  of  the  building;  and  slush  it  into  the 
cracks  and  crevices,  thus  killing  all  the  vermin  that  may  be  concealed  in 
them.  Replace  the  roost  poles  and  nest  boxes  and  use  fresh  material  for 
the  nests.  Sprinkle  the  nests  with  Persian  insect  powder.  Dust  the  fowls 
thoroughly  with  the  powder  to  keep  down  the  lice  as  far  as  possible,  and 
be  liberal  in  its  use,  that  no  regret  may  be  found  in  the  future  when  the 
warm  weather  comes. 

When  the  weather  was  cold  every  crack  was  closed  to  prevent 
draughts.  Remember  that  now  more  ventilation  is  necessary  and  the 
houses  should  be  regulated  accordingly.  There  must  be  an  abundant 
supply  of  fresh  air  in  the  house.  If  the  fowls  have  been  confined  it  is 
necessary  that  the  yards  also  be  cleaned.  Spade  them  up  and  mix  with 
the  soil  fresh  gravel,  sand  and  lime.  If  the  birds  are  on  a range,  it  will 
be  well  to  cleam  around  the  house  door  and  feeding  places,  and  haul  the 
scrapings  off  to  the  garden  or  orchard.  Provide  ample  shade  for 
the  birds  during 


the 

summer  days,  as  they 
need  it  for  protection 
against  the  hot  rays  of 
the  sun. 

Mate  up  the  pens  of 
breeding  birds  as  early 
as  possible  and  be  ready 
to  hatch  when  the 
weather  is  favorable. 
Place  the  best  birds  in 
the  pens,  and  breed  from 


Sigglii 


GRAY  CALL  DUCK. 

those  only  that  are  known  to  be  in  perfect  health.  Vigorous  adult  birds 
give  chicks  that  develop  into  fine  birds  for  the  next  season’s  layers. 

When  fowls  are  allowed  free  range  in  warm  weather,  it  is  not  essen- 
tial to  feed  them  more  than  once  a day,  as  they  gather  food  which 


20 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


nature  supplies  and  is  all  that  is  needed  for  their  food  during  this 
period.  But  when  fowls  are  kept  confined  a study  of  their  feeding  is  of 
as  much  importance  in  summer  as  in  winter. 

When  the  weather  is  cold  it  requires  more  food  to  sustain  life  than 
it  does  during  the  heated  term.  Do  not  allow  the  fowls  to  become  over- 
fat, as  disease  is  likely  to  occur.  Avoid  all  fat-forming  food  during  this 
period  and  keep  them  in  a thrifty,  vigorous  stafe  by  feeding  such 
foods  as  are  not  heating.  Feed  liberally  of  the  bran  mash  in  the  morn- 
ing, and  use  wheat  and  oats  as  grain  foods  during  the  day.  Cooked 
vegetables  and  cut  grass  may  be  used  during  this  period,  as  they  are 
bulky  and  not  stimulating.  Milk,  buttermilk  and  clabber  are  good 
drinks  and  the  fowls  relish  them. 

At  no  season  of  the  year  should  more  attention  be  paid  to  the  drink- 
ing water  than  in  summer.  The  vessels  should  be  rinsed  in  the  morning 
and  filled  with  fresh  water.  Place  the  vessels  in  a location  where  the 
sun  cannot  reach  them,  and  when  possible,  change  the  water  several 
times  each  day.  Occasionally  put  in  the  water,  a few  drops  of  carbolic 
acid  as  a safeguard  against  disease,  and  during  the  moulting  period  a 
small  amount  of  tincture  of  iron  should  be  used  as  a tonic. 


PAIR  SULTANS. 


In  the  previous  chapter  was  given  a synopsis  of  the 
Cold  Weather  care  of  the  fowls  when  in  a growing  state,  and  when 
nature  supplied,  to  a great  extent,  the  food  needed  for 
Management,  their  development.  But  now  these  conditions  have 
changed.  The  fowls  have  developed  into  maturity,  and 
the  biting  frosts  have  deprived  the  birds  of  insect  or  animal  food. 
This  is  the  season  when  the  poultryman  reaps  the  benefit  of  his 
labors;  it  is  at  this  time  when  the  income  is  to  be  had  from  the  summer 
work.  All  conditions  are  now  changed;  the  treatment  of  the  flock  is  in 
a measure  the  reverse  of  that  during  the  warm  weather. 

The  foundation  of  the  winter’s  success  is  based  on  proper  housing 
of  the  birds.  The  houses  should  be  made  warm  and  perfectly  dry,  with 
sufficient  light.  It  is  best  if  they  be  so  arranged  that  the  sun  will 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


21 


AYLESBURY  DUCKS. 


shine  into  the  building  the  greater  part  of  the  day.  Ventilation  is  not 
needed  to  any  great  extent,  as  too  much  ventilation  does  more 
harm  than  good.  If  the  house  be  large  and  there  be  plenty  of  room  for 
the  accommodation  of  the  flock  kept,  there  is  no  need  of  ventilation. 
Do  not  over-crowd  the  flock,  as  poor  results  are  sure  to  follow,  and  the 
birds  cannot  possibly  thrive  in  an  unfavorable  condition.  See  that  no 
cracks  or  crevices  are  in  the  sides  of  the  house  to  admit  cold  draughts  on 
the  birds  while  on  the  roosts.  Dampness  is  to  be  avoided  by  having  a 
tight  roof  and  a board  floor. 

Before  placing  the  birds  in  winter  quarters,  whitewash  the  house 
and  thoroughly  clean  it.  Cover  the  floor  with  cut  straw  or  dry  leaves  to 
a depth  of  six  or  eight  inches,  for  the  hens  to  scratch  in  for  the  grain 
food  during  the  cold  weather.  In  one  portion  of  the  house  provide  a 
box  of  dust  for  the  fowls  to  bathe  in;  this  bath  is  best  made  of  dry 
earth  and  a small  amount  of  powdered  sulphur  mixed  together. 

The  supply  of  eggs  during  the  winter  months  depends  largely  upon 
the  temperature  of  the  house,  and  the  method  of  feeding.  The  latter 
subject  has  been  discussed  at  length  in  another  chapter,  and  it  is  not 
necessary  to  dwell  further  upon  it  here.  The  water  supply  should  be 
ample,  and  the  morning  drink  should  be  warmed  to  about  sixty  degrees. 
When  the  fowls  come  off  the  roosts  on  a cold  morning  they  are 
cramped  and  chilly  and  something  warm  is  needed  for  them  before  going 
into  the  cold.  If  they  drink  warm  water  it  has  a tendency  to  assist  the 
circulation  of  the  blood.  Remember  that  the  bird  must  be  kept  in 
active  exercise  during  the  winter  to  be  healthy  and  profitable.  A lazy 
bird  soon  becomes  diseased;  it  is  a worthless  adjunct  to  the  yard.  To 
prevent  laziness  cause  them  to  work  for  their  living  by  scratching  in  the 
litter  on  the  floor  for  their  grain.  This  will  keen  them  in  good  health. 


to  spawn. 


WHEN  we  look  at  an  egg  we  do  not  com- 
^ prehend  what  a wonderful  thing  it  is.  Many 
PeoP^e  l°°k  on  an  egg  as  a very  ordinary  thing, 
and  never  give  a second  thought  to  it,  nor  of 
* what  it  is  composed,  nor  for  what  purposes  it 
may  be  used.  The  word  is  of  Saxon  origin  and 
was  spelled  aeg  or  oeg.  Johnson  says  the  term 
means  “That  which  is  laid  by  feathered  and  some 
other  animals  from  which  their  young  is  produced;” 
and  he  further  speaks  of  it  as  “the  spawn  or  sperm  of 
other  creatures,”  as  fish  are  said  not  to  lay  eggs,  but 
Another  authority  defines  it  as  the  “ ovum  of  birds,”  giving  us 
here  the  Latin  word  for  egg,  hence  that  peculiar  shape  is  called  oval,  and 
the  science  of  eggs  is  called  oology. 

The  egg  is  the  germ  or  seed  of  the  animal  life;  in  it  is  contained  all 
that  is  necessary  for  the  formation  of  a perfect  living  creature,  and  within 
the  shell  is  all  that  is  necessary  to  make  the  bones,  muscles,  sinews  and 
the  delicate  organs.  These  are  all  there  in  an  undeveloped  state;  by  this 
we  mean  that  the  animal  is  there  in  embryo. 

Dr.  Harvey,  who  made  the  great  discovery  of  the  circulation  of  the 
blood,  says  that  every  animal  is  born  of  an  egg.  The  first  stage  of 
animal  life  may  be  compared  with  an  egg.  All  animals  were  at  one  time 
alike,  mere  specks,  surrounded  by  fluid  matter  which  affords  the  material 
for  growth  and  nourishment,  and  inclosed  in  some  kind  of  a case,  which, 
if  not  an  egg  shell,  answers  the  same  purpose  of  protection  from  injury. 
In  each  of  these  there  exists  the  germ,  which  is  but  a tiny  speck  attached 
to  the  membrane  that  surrounds  the  yolk  which  affords  nourishment  to 
the  animal  embryo.  The  yolk  is  in  proportion  to  the  quantity  that  is  re- 
quired to  sustain  life  until  the  protection  of  the  shell  is  no  longer  needed. 

“The  nature  and  construction  of  the  egg  is  like  a series  of  cases  or 
envelopes”  says  Adams,  “one  within  the  other;  the  outer  only,  which  is 
the  last  one  formed,  being  hard  and  unelastic;  that  is,  it  will  not  stretch 
or  change  in  shape,  and  is  composed  of  carbonate  of  lime,  which 
the  animal  has  the  power  of  secreting  from  its  food.  Next  to  the 
shell  is  a skin  called  the  membrane  putaminis . This  is  divided  into  two 
layers,  which  separate  at  the  larger  end  and  leave  a space  called  the  vesicula 
ceris\  this  contains  the  air  necessary  for  the  chick  to  breathe  before  it 
chips  the  shell.  Enclosed  in  this  membrane  is  the  albumen,  which  is 
suspended  by  little  cords  called  chalaza,  which  has  connection  between 
the  suspending  cords  and  the  germ,  in  which  is  the  vital  principal. 
Next  is  the  yolk,  which  is  called  membrane  vitelli , or  the  skin  of  life.  This 
serves  for  food  for  the  chick  until  hatched.” 

There  are  in  the  egg  the  three  necessities  for  existence — protection, 
the  shell  and  the  albumen;  the  nutrition,  the  yolk  and  food;  and  the 
vital  principle,  or  germ.  This  little  spot  in  the  centre  of  the  yolk,  after 


24 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


, THIRTY-SIX 
HOURS. 


twelve  hours’  incubation,  assumes  an  irregular  outline, 
with  a tendency  to  shoot  or  spread  out  on  all  sides. 
Four  hours  later  they  are  still  more  enlarged,  and  are 
then  assuming  an  oval  shape,  with  a distinct,  though 
somewhat  broken  line  down  the  centre.  At  thirty-six 
hours  there  is  still  greater  increase  in  the  germ,  (Fig.  i.) 
and  a spreading  of  its  mottled  margin  over  a portion  of 
the  yolk.  On  the  fourth  day  the  chick  is  a still  more 
strange  looking  object,  with  projecting  eyes  with  large 
rings  around  them  (Fig.  2).  The  first  resemblance  to  a 
chick  is  on  the  tenth  day,  (Fig.  4,)  when  the  bones  have 
begun  to  form.  A great  change  has  been  going  on  in 
the  interior;  the  chick  has  increased  in  size,  the  red  veins 
have  become  more  numerous,  and  have  spread  over  the 
entire  surface,  while  the  yolk  is  scarcely  distinguishable 
from  the  other  portions.  The  pupil  of  the  eye  has  become 
distinct  on  the  eleventh  day,  and  the  projection  of  the 
wings  and  the  stump  of  the  tail  are  clearly  perceived. 

Larger  and  larger  the  creature  grows,  until  it  fills  all 
the  space  and  has  to  be  doubled  up  in  a curious  manner, 
with  the  feet  and  head  brought  together  and  the  bill  close 
to  the  shell.  On  the  twenty-first  day  the  chick  chips  the 
shell.  Some  suppose  that  the  parent  bird  does  this,  but  it 
is  not  so.  It  is  done  by  the  chick  within. 

As  if  to  assist  in  the  work  of  opening  a 
passage  to  liberty  and  light,  there  is  on 
the  tip  of  the  chick’s  bill  a small  horny  scale,  having 
at  the  centre  a hard  and  sharp  projection,  which  from 
the  position  of  the  head  is  brought  into  direct  and 
constant  contact  with  the  inner  surface  of  the  shell; 
this  scale  soon  loosens  and  falls  off  after  the  chick 
leaves  the  shell. 

The  accompanying  illustrations  clearly  show 
the  evolution  of  the  chick  in  the  egg,  and  demon- 
strate what  a wonderful  thing  the  egg  really  is. 

In  the  adult  birds  we  must  look  for  the  vigor  of 
the  germ,  from  which  the  young  are  to  be  hatched, 
and  every  effort  should  be  exerted  to  produce 
strong,  healthy  chicks.  To  do  this  the  breeding 
stock  must  be  vigorous,  or  the  egg  will  be 
lacking  in  vitality,  and  the  chicks  will  be 
weak.  Care  and  attention  alone  will  give 
us  this  result,  and  as  the  chick  comes  from 
the  egg,  so  the  qualities  that  are  essential 
to  the  maturing  of  a healthy  chick  must  be 
transmitted  from  the  adult  bird  to  the  germ 
in  the  egg.  When  the  chick  is  released  from 
the  shell  in  a strong  condition,  its  chances  of 
living  are  more  certain,  and  it  will  more  easily 
withstand  disease. 


FIG.  2,  FOUR  DAYS- 


FIG.  4,  TEN  DAYS. 


The  sitting  hen  is  a provision  of  nature  for  hatching 
Natural  chicks,  and  is  peculiar  to  the  feathered  tribe  alone.  This 
natural  incubation  affords  study  for  all,  and  there  is  much 
Incubation,  knowledge  to  be  gained  from  their  habits  while  sitting.  In 
the  wild  or  natural  state  they  generally  locate  their  nests 
in  some  secluded  spot  or  on  the  ground.  The  earth  being  a poor  con- 
ductor of  heat,  retains  that  imparted  to  it  from  the  bird’s  body,  while  its 
moisture,  together  with  that  imparted  from  the  bird,  prevents  an  undue 
evaporation  of  the  water  contained  in  the  egg.  This  is  the  natural 
method  of  incubation,  and  success  by  artificial  means  depends  upon 
supplyi-ng  like  conditions. 

For  setting,  fresh  eggs  are  needed  to  produce  vigorous  stock;  the 
fresher  the  eggs  the  better,  as  they  hatch  more  promptly  and  chicks  are 
more  active  and  thrifty.  In  locating  the  nest  it  will  be  well  to  place  it 
upon  the  ground;  but  if  this  be  not  practicable,  earth  may  be  placed  in 
the  nest-box. 


The  nest-box  should 
always  be  large  and  roomy, 
so  that  the  hen  will  not  be 
crowded  while  on  the  eggs. 
Fig.  i is  a box  fifteen 
inches  high,  sixteen  inches 
square,  and  has  a lattice 
,door  in  front  to  keep  other 


hens  from  troubling  the 
sitter.  The  top  of  the  box 
is  made  of  laths,  which  af- 
ford a free  circulation  of 
air.  There  is  no  bottom 
to  this  nest.  It  should  be 
placed  upon  the  ground. 
The  lattice  door  is  so 


IG.  i,  THE  NEST. 

arranged  that  it  may  be  removed  to  allow  the  hen  to  leave  the  nest  for  food. 

In  the  nesting  material  sprinkle  Persian  insect  powder;  also  sprinkle 
the  hen  before  placing  on  the  eggs.  Repeat  this  once  every  week  during 
the  sitting  period.  When  the  hen  is  taken  from  the  nest  with  her  brood, 
she  should  again  be  sprinkled  with  the  powder,  and  each  of  the  chicks 
should  be  slightly  touched  on  the  head  and  throat  with  a small  quantity 
of  sweet  oil  or  lard.  They  should  then  be  removed  to  the  brood  coop, 
and  cared  for,  as  stated  in  other  chapters. 

The  method  employed  for  testing  eggs  and  showing  the  development 
of  the  chicks  within  the  shell  is  shown  in  the  accompanying  illustrations. 
The  time  for  testing  eggs  is  on  the  fifth  or  sixth  day,  when  all  clear  or 
infertile  eggs  should  be  removed  from  the  nest.  To  test  the  eggs  remove 
the  hen  from  the  nest,  and  hold  each  egg  near  the  light,  in  the  manner 
shown  in  Fig.  2,  between  the  eye  and  the  light.  The  eggs  may  be  tested 
to  an  advantage  in  this  way,  but  a better  plan  would  be  to  use  the  egg 


26 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


FIG.  4,  EGg  TESTER. 

A,  are  the  blood 


tester,  which  more 
clearly  shows  the 
germ,  owing  to  the 
peculiar  construction 
of  the  tester.  In  Figs. 

3 and  4 are  shown  egg 
testers  which  are  sim- 
ple in  construction,  FIG-  holding 
and  can  be  made  at  a THE  EGG- 

very  small  cost.  FIG-  3>  egg  tester. 

The  appearance  of  the  eggs  as  seen  through  the 
testers  is  clearly  shown  in  the  following  illustrations  : 

Fig.  5 shows  a strong  fertile  egg,  as  seen  on  the  sixth 
or  seventh  day.  B,  the  dark  spot,  is  the  live  germ;  A, 
vessels  extending  out  from  it.  This  germ  B is  seen  by  placing  the  eggs 
against  the  aperture  of  the  tester,  and  revolving  it  between  the  thumb 
and  finger  until  the  side  on  which  the  germ  has  formed  comes  nearest 
the  eye.  The  spot  B will  be  seen  very  distinctly,  and  is  often  surrounded 
with  a cloud,  as  shown  in  the  figure.  This  is  a very  strong  healthy  egg 
and  should  hatch  under  a hen  or  in  an  incubator.  C shows  the  average 

^ air  space  in  an  egg  on 

p the  fifth  or  sixth  day. 

^ Fig-  6 shows  a weak 

/*  / ..T  \ or  imperfectly  fertil- 

2lj  ■'irrWfci_  ized  egg.  H is  an  ob- 

long or  circular  blood 
vessel  which  has  start- 
ed; there  is  no  part  of 
the  chick  in  the  for- 
mation. This  egg  will 
nothatch.  C is  a small 
dark  spot, a weak  germ 
without  blood  vessels. 
F is  the  air  space.  Fig. 
7 shows  a stale  egg, 
which  is  generally  dis- 
tinguished by  the  very 
large  air  space  E. 
When  an  egg  shows 
a clouded  appearance, 
as  in  D,  it  is  certainly 
stale  and  will  not 
hatch.  In  an  unfertile 
fresh  egg  you  can  see 
the  yolk,  which  looks 
somewhat  darker  than 
the  rest  of  the  egg, 
but  does  not  look 
muddled.  Fig.  8 shows 
the  size  of  the  air 
space  in  a fertile  egg 
on  the  16th  day.  K is 
the  space  occupied  by 


FIG.  5,  A STRONG  FERTILE  EGG. 


FIG.  6,  A WEAK  OR  IMPERFECTLY 
FERTILIZED  EGG. 


FIG.  7,  A STALE  EGG. 


FIG.  8,  THE  AIR  SPACE  ON  THE 
16TH  DAY. 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


27 


the  chick;  the  lines  I & J show  the  air  in  the 
bulb,  which  may  be  on  top  or  at  the  side, 
as  indicated  by  the  lines. 

For  generations  past  the 

Artificial  secret  of  artificial  incubation 
has  been  in  the  keeping  of  the 
Incubation.  Chinese  and  Egyptians,  who 
undoubtedly  learned  the  art 
from  careful  observation  of  the  turtles  and 
alligators,  whose  eggs  were  hatched  by  the 
sun  beaming  on  and  warming  the  sand  in 
which  the  eggs  were  deposited.  It  is 
recorded  that  De  Reaumurs,  the  French 
scientist,  as  early  as  1750,  perfected  a pro- 
cess of  artificial  incubation,  which,  though 
successful,  was  not  practical  for  ordinary 
purposes.  It  has  been  within  the  last 
twenty-five  years  that  artificial  incubation 
has  been  brought  into  practical  operation. 
The  numerous  successful  machines  now  in 
operation  elevate  the  subject  from  theory 
and  demonstrate  to  all  that  this  branch  of 
the  poultry  industry  is  an  important  factor 
in  the  raising  of  chicks.  To-day  thousands 
of  chicks  are  hatched  by  artificial  methods 
and  they  are  in  every  particular  equal 
to  those  hatched  by  the  natural  means. 

The  mission  of  the  incubator  is  to  replace 
the  hen  for  hatching  purposes,  and  by  so 
doing  the  labor  and  care  needed  to  set  and 
raise  a single  brood  of  chicks  under  a hen 
may  be  used  to  operate  a machine,  and  the 
results  will  be  many  fold  greater  with  the 
same  outlay  of  time  and  trouble. 

The  hens  supply  the  heat  and  moisture 
to  the  eggs  in  the  same  manner  as  the 
machine  will  do  when  in  operation.  The 
hen  bears  no  more  relation  to  the  egg  than 
an  incubator  after  she  has  laid  the  egg  in 
the  nest;  nor  is  her  maternal  instinct  suf- 
ficient to  recognize  an  egg  laid  by  her  from 
that  of  another  hen,  nor  to  distinguish  her 
offspring  from  that  of  a turkey,  duck,  goose 
or  pheasant,  and  she  will  mother  any  bird 
she  hatches. 

The  incubator  is  intended  to  supply  heat 
and  moisture  to  the  egg  without  any  regard 
to  the  shape  or  style  of  its  construction. 
A machine  should  be  so  built  as  to  regulate 
the  temperature  for  a sufficient  period  and 
keep  the  heat  uniform  in  the  egg  tray.  This 
heat  should  be  that  of  the  hen’s  body  or 
between  101  and  103  degees.  It  should  be 


28 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


kept  as  near  this  as  possible  during  incuba- 
tion, but  it  has  been  found  that  the  tem- 
perature may  rise  as  high  as  no  degrees 
without  injury  to  the  eggs,  provided  it 
does  not  remain  at  that  point  more  than  a 
few  minutes;  or  it  may  fall  to  a very  low 
point  for  a short  while. 

In  operating  an  incubator  the  con- 
ditions surrounding  it  have  much  to  do  with 
its  success.  These  the  operator  must  study 
and  learn  by  practice.  Many  theories  have 
been  advanced  by  persons  who  have  ob- 
tained certain  results  under  given  con- 
ditions, and  when  tried  by  another  the 
attempt  has  proven  an  entire  failure  in 
every  detail.  A close  observation  of  the 
machine  under  the  conditions  directly  sur- 
rounding it  must  govern  the  operations  of 
it  and  not  the  theories  of  others.  Try  the 
machine  thoroughly  before  filling  it  with 
eggs,  and  then  watch  the  development  with 
care  and  patience  in  attending  to  the  details 
of  the  hatch. 

A good  plan  for  an  incubator  is  the 
following,  which  is  taken  from  the  Youth’s 
Companion.  It  has  no  way  of  regulating 
the  temperature  other  than  is  found  in  its 
construction. 

Make  a pine  box  somewhat  like  a com- 
mon washstand,  without  the  inside  divisions, 
as  shown  in  Fig.  i.  About  a foot  from  the 
floor  of  this  case  piace  brackets  like  those 
shown  in  Fig.  2,  and  on  a level  with  these 
screw  a strong  cleat  across  the  back  of  the 
case  inside.  They  are  to  support  the  tank. 
The  tank  should  be  made  of  galvanized  iron, 
three  inches  deep  and  otherwise  propor- 
tioned to  fit  exactly  within  the  case  and  rest 
upon  the  brackets  and  cleats,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  3.  At  the  top  of  this  tank  in  the  centre 
should  be  a hole  an  inch  in  diameter  with  a 
rim  two  inches  high,  and  at  the  bottom, 
towards  one  end,  a faucet  for  drawing  off 
the  water.  When  the  tank  is  set  in  the  case, 
fill  up  all  the  chinks  and  cracks  between  the 
edges  of  the  tank  and  the  case  with  plaster 
of  Paris  to  keep  all  the  fumes  of  the  lamp 
from  the  eggs.  Fill  the  tank  at  least  two 
inches  deep  with  boiling  water.  To  find 
when  the  right  depth  is  acquired  guage  the 
water  with  a small  stick.  Over  the  top  of 
the  tank  spread  fine  gravel  to  the  depth  of 
a quarter  of  an  inch,  over  this  lay  coarse 


Second  Half 
^Incubation. 


11  DAYS. - 


-15DAYS.- 


,g^_,aDAYS. 


ill 


21  DAYS. : 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


29 


F/Q.  1 FlCr.  2. 

YOUTH’S  COMPANION  INCUBATOR. 


cotton  cloth,  and  set  a safety  kerosene  lamp  under  the  center  of  the  tank 
The  door  of  the  lamp-closet  must  have  four  holes  for  ventilation,  other- 
wise the  lamp  will  not  burn.  The  lamp-closet  is  the  space  within  the 
incubator  under  the  tank.  Turn  the  eggs  carefully  every  morning  and 
evening,  and  after  turning  them  sprinkle  with  quite  warm  water. 
Thermometers  should  be  kept  in  the  incubator,  one-half  way  between 
the  centre  and  each  end.  The  average  heat  should  be  103  degrees.  If 
the  eggs  do  not  warm  up  well,  lay  a piece  of  coarse  carpet  over  them; 
but  if  they  are  too  warm  take  out  the  lamp  and  open  the  cover  for  a short 
time,  but  do  not  let  the  eggs  get  chilled.  If  it  is  desired  to  have  top 
heat,  the  same  sort  of  a tank  is  required  but  a boiler  must  be  attached 
to  the  side  with  an  upper  and  lower  pipe  for  circulation.  A plumber 
can  attach  the  boiler  for  a small  sum;  the  faucet  must  be  at  the  bottom 
of  the  boiler  on  one  side.  The  drawers  containing  the  eggs  should  slide 
beneath  the  tank.  A stand  for  the  lamp  should  be  screwed  to  one  end 
of  the  case  in  such  a position  as  to  bring  the  lamp  under  the  boilers,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  4.  To  cool  the  incubator  raise  the  lid,  turn  down  the  lamp 
and  pull  the  drawers  part  way  out. 

Another  plan  of  incubator  that  has  given  good  results  is  the  Farm 
and  Garden  Incubator.  To  make  this  machine  use  boards  one  inch 
thick  and  twelve  inches  wide.  Cut  them  forty-two  inches  long  for  the 


floor,  and  make 
forty-two  inches 
wide.  The  corner 
posts  are  twenty- 
four  inches  high, 
marked  A,  Fig.  1, 
and  the  two  posts 
B,  in  front,  are 
twelve  inches 
high.  The  posts 
are  made  of  2x3 
stuff  and  are  nailed  securely  to  the  floor.  The 
four  corner  posts  are  for  the  outer  box,  which, 


■ INCHES. 

FARM  AND  GARDEN  INCUBATOR. 


30  THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


when  finished,  is  four  feet  long  and  forty-four  inches  wide,  outside 
measurement.  Including  top  and  bottom  the  machine  is  twenty-six 
inches  high.  Nail  on  your  side  boards,  and  have  the  front  end  boards 
cover  the  end  of  the  side  boards.  Tongue  and  groove  boards  should  be 
used  for  the  entire  machine,  except  the  floor,  which  should  be  of  heavy 
boards. 

The  inner  box  is  forty  inches  long  and  thirty-two  inches  wide,  out- 
side measurement,  and  holds  a tank  thirty  by  thirty-six  inches.  The 
side  boards  are  nailed  to  posts  B,  Fig.  i,  and  front  boards  of  the  outer 
box,  and  are  fastened  at  the  rear  end  by  the  rear  boards  being  nailed  to 
the  ends  of  the  side  boards.  Fasten  the  inner  box  to  the  floor  with 
cleats.  Fig.  2 shows  the  construction  of  the  inner  box  quite  clearly.  A 
is  the  larger,  or  outer  box;  B is  the  inner  box;  C are  strips  one  inch 
wide  and  one  inch  thick,  nailed  to  the  sides  of  the  inner  box;  Dare  strips 
one  inch  thick  nailed  to  the  sides  of  the  inner  box.  The  strips  C,  with 
the  iron  rods,  extend  a little  into  the  sides  of  the  inner  box,  to  assist  in 
supporting  the  weight  of  the  tank.  The  strips  D are  to  hold  the  egg 
drawer.  E is  a tin  tube,  one  and  one-quarter  inches  in  diameter  and 
two  feet  long,  placed  in  the  front  part  of  the  ventilator  to  admit  air  In 
this  cut  the  sawdust  is  not  shown  in  front. 

The  ventilator  is  in  the  bottom  of  the  inner  box  and  is  under  the 
egg  drawer,  five  inches  deep  and  thirty  inches  wide.  The  front  end  is 
boxed  off,  which  includes  the  front  boards  and  also  the  sawdust,  which 
makes  the  ventilator,  inside  measurement,  thirty-six  inches  long.  The 
bottom  of  the  ventilator  should  be  papered,  so  that  no  air  can  enter 
except  through  the  tin  tube.  The  tin  tube  is  open  at  the  front  on  out- 
side of  the  incubator  and  enters  into  the  ventilator. 

The  egg  drawer  is 
under  the  tank,  and 
rests  on  strips  D,  as 
shown  in  Fig.  6.  By 
outside  measurement 
the  egg  drawer  is  four 
inches  deep,  thirty-nine 
inches  long  and  thirty 
inches  wide.  Fit  in  the 
drawer  three  movable 
trays,  one  and  one-half 
inches  deep.  Nail  strips 
an  inch  wide  and  five- 
eights  of  an  inch  thick 
one  inch  apart  the 
length  of  the  egg 
drawer,  but  not  under 
the  boxed  off  portion, 
for  the  bottom.  Mor- 
tise ends  of  strips  in  the 
egg  drawer  so  as  to 
have  the  bottom 
smooth.  Tack  a piece 
of  muslin  to  these  strips 
(thin  muslin  is  best) 
and  also  tack  it  on  the 


SILVER  GRAY  DORKING  COCK. 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


31 


inside  of  the  drawers.  Nail 
strips  to  the  bottom  of  the 
trays  one  inch  wide.  They 
need  not  be  mortised,  but 
may  be  nailed  on  the  bot- 
tom, one  inch  apart  and 
running  lengthwise;  tack 
muslin  on  the  inside  of  the 
bottom  of  the  trays  the 
same  as  in  egg  drawer. 

The  inside  of  the  drawer 
is  three  inches  deep.  The 
sawdust  in  front  of  the  egg 
drawer  (the  boxed  portion) 
fits  in  boxed  front  of  incu- 
bator, as  shown  in  Fig.  3. 

A broad  cap  should  be 
placed  on  the  outside  of 
the  egg  drawer  to  exclude 
the  air.  The  tank  as  shown 
in  Fig.  4,  is  thirty  by  thirty- 
six  inches,  and  is  seven 
inches  deep.  It  is  support- 
ed by  strips  C,  Fig.  2.  It 
fits  close  to  the  back  boards 
of  the  inner  box,  and  the 
front  is  inclosed  by  sliding  boards,  secured  by  one  inch  upright  strips  at 
each  end  of  board.  This  leaves  a small  space  in  front  of  the  sliding 
board  to  be  filled  with  sawdust.  The  tube  should  be  threaded  and 
should  extend  through  the  sawdust  in  front  for  the  faucet  to  be  screwed 
to.  The  tube  at  the  top  is  seven  inches  long,  and  extends  through  the 
sawdust  and  also  through  the  outer  and  inner  box,  as  shown  in  Fig.  5. 
This  is  the  incubator  complete,  and  the  opening  into  which  the  egg 
drawer  enters  when  filled  with  eggs,  clearly  shows  the  sawdust  packing 
in  front. 


BLACK  HAMBURGH  PULLET. 


Fig.  6 is  a sectional  view  of  the  incubator  and  shows  the  different 
parts.  The  boxed  off  portion  in  front  is  filled  with  sawdust.  The 
side  boards  of  the  inner  box  are  joined  on  their  front  ends  to  the  front 
boards  of  the  outer  box  and  are  also  nailed  to  the  two  short  middle  posts. 
The  space  between  the  boxes  is  filled  with  sawdust,  chaff,  oats  or  finely 
cut  hay,  packed  solidly.  Use  sawdust  when  possible.  In  Fig.  6,  A is 
tube  on  top,  B the  faucet  in  front,  C the  opening  for  the  egg  drawer,  and  D 
the  tube  to  admit  air  into  the  ventilator.  The  ventilator  tube  should  be 
placed  as  close  to  the  bottom  as  possible.  Use  putty  around  the  open- 
ings, where,  the  tin  tubes  enter  the  boxes,  to  keep  out  the  air.  Fig.  7 
shows  the  incubator  complete. 

The  capacity  of  this  incubator  is  240  eggs.  Eighty  eggs  to  each 
drawer.  Fill  up  the  tank  with  boiling  water  to  the  bottom  of  the  tube 
on  top  It  should  be  filled  forty-eight  hours  before  the  eggs  are  placed 
in  it,  and  the  temperature  at  that  time  should  be  about  112  degrees.  Do 
not  open  the  drawers  for  at  least  six  hours  afterwards,  as  the  eggs  when 
first  put  in  will  cool  the  drawer  and  the  heat  will  then  be  about  103  de- 
grees, and  it  should  be  kept  as  near  this  temperature  as  possible  through- 


3^ 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


out  the  entire  period  of  incubation.  Learn  to  manage  it  perfectly  by 
running  a few  days  without  any  eggs.  The  incubator  should  be  kept  in 
a room  where  the  temperature  is  about  sixty  degrees. 

If  any  difficulty  is  experienced  in  raising  and  lowering  the  tempera- 
ture, the  trays  may  be  raised  or  lowered  by  putting  small  strips  under 
them.  Add  a bucket  of  hot  water  twice  a day,  in  the  morning  and  again 
in  the  evening.  The  temperature  will  rise  in  five  hours  after  the  water 
has  been  put  in. 

Place  the  bulb  of  the  thermometers  even  with  the  top  of  the  eggs 
with  the  upper  end  of  the  thermometers  slightly  raised,  so  that  the 
mercury  will  rise  in  the  tube.  The  eggs  should  be  turned  once  a day, 
and  while  turning  them  do  not  let  them  cool  below  seventy  degrees.  No 
moisture  is  needed  the  first  week,  a little  the  second  and  much  the  third. 
Moisture  may  be  supplied  with  a small  sponge  dampened  with  hot  water. 
During  the  second  week  one  sponge  in  each  tray  is  sufficient,  and  two 
sponges  about  the  size  of  an  egg  in  each  tray  will  supply  all  the  moisture 
needed  during  the  third  week.  A small  glass  door  may  be  placed  in  the 
front  of  the  egg  drawer  through  which  to  observe  the  thermometers. 
The  position  of  the  tray  should  be  changed  when  the  eggs  are  turned,  by 
placing  the  front  tray  in  the  rear. 


Fig.  1. 


A brooder  that  can  be  easily  made  is  shown  in  the 
Home  Made  accompanying  illustration,  which  was  furnished  by  Mr.  W. 
A.  Ramsey  of  Alabama. 

Brooder.  Fig.  i is  a tank  nine  feet  long,  four  feet  wide,  and  two 
inches  deep,  over  which  the  house  or  box  Fig.  2 is  placed. 
The  lower  edges  of  the  house  in  Fig.  2 rest  upon  the  rim  or  projection 
(a,  a,  a,)  of  Fig.  1.  The  walls  (b,  b,  b.)  of  Fig.  2 stand  half  an  inch  away 
from  the  sides  of  the  tank.  The  floor  (c,  c,  c,)  of  the  chicken  apartment, 
is  also  one-half  inch  above  the  top  of  the  tank.  The  little  holes  shown 
in  the  walls  (b,  b,  b,)  admit  fresh  air.  This  air  spreads  all  around  the 
tank  of  hot  water.  There  are  one  inch  tin  tubes  set  in  holes  through  the 
floor  (c,  c,  c). 

The  air  coming  in  contact  with  the 
tank  becomes  heated,  therefore  ex- 
pands, and  becoming  lighter,  passes 
up  and  over  the  tank,  finding  egress 
through  the  tin  tubes  into  the 
chamber  occupied  by  the  chicks, 
furnishing  them  pure,  warm  air.  The 
tank  cannot  be  made  hot  enough  to 
rob  the  air  of  any  perceptible  amount 
of  oxygen. 

The  tank  of  water  is  heated  by  two 
lamps  (Fig.  3).  The  lamp  needs  but 
little  description.  The  tube  (d)  is  one 
inch  in  diameter  and  is  set  diagonally 
across  the  depth  of  the  tank  to  facili- 
tate the  circulation  of  the  water. 
The  flame  plays  against  the  tube,  and  heats  the  water,  which, 
being  expanded,  passes  out  at  the  upper  end  of  the  tube, 
giving  place  to  cooler  water  coming  in  at  the  lower  end. 
The  chimney  (e)  is  tin,  as  is  also  the  flue  (f).  The  chim- 


PLANS  OF  BROODER. 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


33 


ney  fits  over  the  projection  of  the  flue  under  the  tank.  The  chimney 
snould  be  made  short  enough  to  let  the  flame  barely  touch  the  tube. 

The  lamp  occupies  an  apartment  under  the  tank,  the  tank  consti- 
tuting the  top  or  cover  to  the  lamp  box.  Our  lamp  box  is  thirteen  inches 
long,  hooked  at  the  corners,  and  has  two  small  doors  at  the  back  side, 
for  convenience  in  handling  the  lamp. 

The  lamp  we  use  requires  a chimney  whose  diameter  is  three  inches. 
Now  for  the  cost : The  tank  cost  six  dollars  ; the  lamps  one  dollar  ; the 
remainder,  some  scrap  lumber  and  time  to  put  it  together.  Any  tinner 
can  make  the  tank  and  heater.  The  material  is  galvanized  iron. 

The  chamber  which  the  chicks  occupy  is  just  over  the  tank,  and  is 
six  inches  high  in  the  rear  and  ten  inches  high  in  front.  The  opening  in 
front  is  closed  with  a board,  which  may  be  hinged  at  the  edge  of  the 
floor,  and  constitute  a part  of  the  platform  leading  from  the  room  to  the 
ground.  The  roof,  by  the  way,  will  need  a knee  to  support  it  at  the 
middle  of  the  opening  at  the  front. 


Fig.  2. 

PLANS  OF  LAMP  AND  TANK  BROODER. 

This  brooder  is  one  that  has  been  tried  with  much  suc- 
A Lamp  and  cess  and  is  easily  made  at  a low  cost.  Reference  to  Fig. 

i shows  the  top  is  detachable,  being  lifted  off  by  the 
Tank  Brooder,  handle  when  desired.  Although  the  lower  part  of  the 
brooder  is  above  the  ground,  yet,  if  preferred,  it  can  be 
sunk  in  the  ground,  provided  that  holes  to  admit  air  to  the  brooder  and 
emit  smoke  from  the  chimney  are  left  above  the  surface  of  the  ground. 
Space  must  be  left  to  permit  access  to  the  lamp  if  the  brooder  is  under 
ground.  Either  a number  two  burner  lamp  or  a small  kerosene  oil  stove 
may  be  used  for  heating  the  brooder.  Be  careful  to  leave  air  holes  at 
the  bottom  of  the  door  or  the  lamp  will  smoke  or  go  out.  Keep  the 
brooder  at  a temperature  of  90  degrees. 

Fig.  2 shows  the  lamp  under  sheet  iron  tank.  It  heats  the  tank,  the 
smoke  of  the  lamp  passing  out  at  the  four  holes,  placed  at  each  corner  of 
the  brooder  to  distribute  the  heat.  The  cold  air  enters  around  the  tank, 
and  is  drawn  over  it  above  the  lamp.  The  cold  air  rushes  in  as  fast  as 
the  warm  air  rises.  The  hot  air  rises  through  the  tube  in  the  floor.  It 
will  be  seen  that  the  smoke  of  the  lamp  does  not  go  into  the  brooder, 
and  that  the  tube  in  the  brooder  extends  through  the  wooden  floor  only. 
The  brooder  is  a yard  square,  but  the  tank  may  be  made  smaller;  the 
box  containing  the  lamp  is  two  inches  deep,  and  the  square  between  the 
top  of  the  tank  and  the  wooden  floor  is  half  an  inch.  The  curtain  in 
front  of  the  brooder  is  simply  a piece  of  cloth  cut  into  strips.  The  smoke 
holes  of  the  lamp  should  be  at  each  corner,  but  only  two  cold  air  holes 
are  necessary,  and  they  should  be  much  nearer  the  centre  of  the  sides  of 


34 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


the  brooder.  Bear  in  mind  that  the  cold  air  goes  between  the  tank  and 
the  brooder  floor,  and  gets  heated. 

To  make  this  brooder  cut  six  boards;  one  inch  thick,  six  inches  wide, 
and  three  feet  long,  tongued  and  grooved,  so  that  no  air  can  come 
through  except  by  way  of  the  tube  on  top,  which  tube  is  one  inch  in 
diameter,  and  two  and  a half  inches  from  the  floor.  These  boards  are 
for  your  floor.  On  the  under  side  of  this  floor,  at  the  edges,  nail  strips 
all  around,  on  the  ends  and  sides,  the  strips  being  one  inch  thick  and  one 
and  one-half  inches  wide.  Then  set  your  tank  as  shown  in  the  cut.  You 
will  then  have  an  air  space  between  the  floor  and  tank  of  one-half  inch. 
Be  sure  to  cut  air  holes  to  admit  the  cold  air.  You  may  simply  have 
open  holes  or  you  can  use  tubes,  if  preferred.  The  holes  need  only  be 
half  an  inch  in  diameter.  You  can  now  easily  fit  on  the  lower  box,  and 
also  make  the  covering  to  the  top,  as  may  be  seen  in  the  illustrations. 
This  machine  is  made  on  the  plan  of  the  old  English  brooder,  and  has 
been  in  use  for  many  years.  It  has  been  improved  several  times  by  the 
addition  of  minor  details,  and  it  is  about  all  that  can  be  desired.  In  fact, 
it  may  be  called  a “perfect  brooder.” 

Fig.  i shows  the  brooder  with  lamp  and  tank  above  ground.  Fig.  2 
gives  a sectional  view  of  same.  Fig.  3 shows  the  construction  of  the 
tank,  and  Fig.  4 shows  the  mother  which  covers  the  chicks,  with  adjust- 
able legs  or  pegs. 

This  brooder 
A Practical  is  one  to  be  high- 
ly recommended 
Brooder,  as  a cheap  and 
practical  brood- 
er. The  design  is  from 
Mr.  J.  H.  E.  Schultz,  of 
Mountain  View,  N.  J.,  who 
describes  it  as  follows: 

For  the  farmer  and,  in 
fact,  any  one  not  engaged  in 
the  broiler  business,  outdoor 
brooders  are  best.  For  in- 
cubator-hatched chicks  they 
are  a necessity,  and  may  be 
used  advantageously  when 
chicks  are  hatched  with  hens. 

The  brooder  here  described 
is  large  enough  for  from  50 
to  75  chicks,  but  is  better  calculated  for  fifty  ; with  that  number  it  may 
be  used  until  the  chicks  are  eight  weeks  old.  Of  course,  everything  must 
be  kept  perfectly  clean  ; I would  advise  that  the  floor  be  well  sprinkled 
with  clean,  sharp  sand  and  thoroughly  scraped  and  cleaned  every  morning. 

The  material  necessary  for  the  brooder  will  cost  about  $5,  and  is  as 
follows  : Nine  12-foot  matched  white  pine  boards,  three-quarters  inch 
thick  by  six  inches  wide,  planed  on  both  sides  ; one  piece  sheet  iron  30 
inches  square  ; one  piece  15  by  20  inches  in  size  ; two  pieces  galvanized 
iron  or  zinc  80  inches  long  by  2\  wide  ; glass  for  sash  of  run  ; one  Little 
Queen  oil  stove  ; four  hinges  ; six  hooks  ; one  pound  sixpenny  and  one 


PLANS  OF  PRACTICAL  BROODER 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


35 


pound  eightpenny  wire  nails  ; a little  putty  and  paint  for  two  good  coats. 
Fig.  i shows  the  brooder  finished,  with  inclined  bridge,  E,  in  place.  This 
bridge  should  be  fastened  to  the  end  of  the  brooder  with  hooks,  see  S. 
The  sides  of  the  bridge  should  be  made  of  one-inch-mesh  wire  or  muslin 
tacked  to  light  frames,  or  it  may  be  of  solid  boards.  F is  the  door  or 
exit  for  the  chicks,  and  should  have  a slide.  V is  a ventilating  hole  two 
inches  in  diameter  ; there  should  be  one  on  each  side  fixed  to  close  with 
slides.  C is  a chimney  to  carry  off  fumes  from  the  lamp.  Including  the 
run,  the  brooder  is  72  inches  long  by  32  wide  ; at  the  highest  point,  X,  it 
is  20  inches  high  ; and  at  both  front  and  back  16  inches  from  the  ground. 
The  chimney  is  four  inches  square  by  two  feet  long.  A is  a sash  door 
hinged  to  the  run  ; T T are  hinges  ; the  opposite  side  should  be  provided 
with  hooks,  like  S S,  on  the  back  cover  or  roof  B.  Hinge  both  A and  B 
to  open  on  the  side  most  convenient  to  get  at  the  chicks.  A should  lap 
over  B,  as  shown  in  Fig.  2.  B should  be  of  solid  boards  and  as  nearly 
watertight  as  possible  ; dampness  is  fatal  to  chicks. 

Figs.  2,  3 and  4,  show  sections  of  the  brooder  ; Y is  the  floor  ; J is  a 
piece  of  sheet  iron  30  inches  square,  firmly  nailed  to  cleats,  M,  on  the 
four  sides  of  the  brooder.  In  Fig.  4.  a hole  or  door  eight  inches  square 
is  cut,  opposite  the  chimney,  for  a lamp  door  ; here  the  cleat  is  cut  away 
to  admit  the  top  of  the  lamp  and  the  sheet  iron  is  nailed  to  a short  10- 
inch  cleat  between  the  floor  and  sheet  iron.  Except  these  there  are  no 
cleats  at  the  sides  above  the  sheet  iron,  as  will  be  explained  further.  At 
front  and  rear,  cleats  1 £ inch  wide  qre  nailed,  and  to  these  the  floor  is 
fastened  after  putting  in  the  deflector,  H ; this  is  made  as  follows  : Two 
pieces  of  board  are  made  like  I,  20  inches  long  on  top,  by  one  and  a 
quarter  wide  in  the  centre  ; they  are  to  be  nailed  to  the  floor  as  cleats, 
and  must  be  15  inches  apart  from  outside  to  outside,  placed  as  in  Fig.  3. 
To  these  is  nailed  the  15  by  20  inch  piece  of  sheet  iron.  At  each  end  of 
I,  a one-half  inch  air  space  is  left.  This  deflector  serves  a double  pur- 
pose ; it  prevents  overheating  the  floor,  and  also  divides  the  heat  which 
passes  up  into  the  chicken  chamber  under  the  hover,  as  shown  by  the 
arrows.  The  floor  in  the  brooder  is  one-half  inch  scant  for  30  inches 
from  back  on  each  side,  as  shown  on  the  right  side,  Fig.  3.  Before 
fastening  the  floor,  nail  on  the  pieces  G G,  see  Fig.  5 ; they  are  30  inches 
long  by  three  inches  high  ; at  the  top  of  each,  a piece  is  cut  out  20  inches 
long  by  one-half  inch  deep,  as  shown  in  Figs.  2 and  5 ; now  nail  in  the 
floor,  and  there  will  be  a half  inch  air  space  on  each  side.  Take  the  strips 
of  galvanized  iron  or  zinc,  bend  them  as  in  K,  tack  them  to  the  sides  of 
the  brooder  and  to  the  ends  of  the  top  of  G G ; these  are  to  direct  the 
heat  into  the  chamber  under  the  hover  L.  The  edge  that  is  tacked  to  G 
should  be  neatly  folded  over,  see  K.  The  hover,  L,  Fig.  3,  should  rest 
on  top  of  G G ; when  the  chicks  are  first  put  in,  the  cleats  which  fasten 
it  together  should  be  up  ; this  gives  the  chicks  a chamber  three  inches 
high.  In  three  or  four  days  turn  the  hover  over  and  they  will  have  a four- 
inch  chamber  ; the  hover  should  be  scant  30  inches  square,  with  one  inch 
cleats  on  the  ends.  As  the  chicks  grow  it  must  be  raised,  or  in  warm 
weather  after  they  are  a week  to  ten  days  old,  it  may  be  removed.  Do  not 
overheat  the  little  fellows  ; place  a thermometer  on  the  floor  in  the 
centre  under  the  hover.  Ninety  degrees  will  be  warm  enough  for  the 
first  two  or  three  days,  then  gradually  reduce  to  80  degrees  and  lower. 
The  chicks  themselves  are  the  best  thermometers  ; when  they  are  too 
cold,  they  will  huddle  together,  and  the  weaker  may  be  smothered;  when 


m 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


too  hot,  they  will  “move  out.”  When  the  heat  is  just  right  you  will  find 
them  spread  all  over  the  floor  and  hear  contented  little  peeps.  The  best 
way  I know  to  find  out  the  condition  of  things  is  to  put  your  hand  under 
the  hover  and  feel  for  yourself. 

The  arrangement  of  the  brooder  when  finished  should  be  as  follows  : 
Depth  of  lamp  box  from  sheet  iron  to  floor,  eight  inches  ; heater  box 
between  sheet  iron  and  floor,  i-J  inch.  The  cold  outside  air  comes  into 
the  heater  box  through  four  one-half  inch  holes,  D,  Figs,  i,  2 and  4 is 
warmed  by  passing  over  the  sheet  iron,  and  is  driven  up  between  G and 
the  sides  of  the  brooder  into  the  chick  chamber.  The  lamp  must  stand 
under  the  centre  of  the  sheet-iron  heater.  To  make  this  a sure  thing  nail 
two  cleats,  N N,  Figs.  3 and  4,  just  far  enough  "apart  for  the  bottom  of 
the  lamp  to  slide  between  them,  and  at  the  back  nail  another  cleat  or 
stop  ; when  the  lamp  hits  this  it  is  in  the  centre.  The  door  of  the  lamp 
box  must  have  several  holes  bored  through  it  to  admit  air  to  the  lamp. 
Opposite  the  door  is  the  two-inch  hole  P.  This  opens  into  the  chimney 
and  carries  off  the  fumes  from  the  lamp.  Should  the  lamp  smoke,  it 
does  not  have  air  enough.  It  is  best  to  have  air  holes  at  the  bottom  oPthe 
door.  The  run  is  30  by  40  inches  ; the  chicks  should  be  kept  in  this  for 
a few  days,  then  attach  the  bridge,  E,  which  it  is  well  to  cover  at  the  top 
as  well  as  at  the  sides,  and  let  the  chicks  out  into  a small  enclosed  run, 
say  10  feet  square.  There  should  be  an  opening  in  the  side  to  corre- 
spond.to  that  of  the  bridge.  Should  the  sun  be  too  hot,  shade  the  glass 
of  the  run  in  some  way,  or  there  may  be  roast  chicken  before  it  is  wanted. 
Feed  and  water  the  chicks  in  the  run. 

In  building  the  brooder,  put  the  boards  on  up  and  down,  see  Fig.  1. 
The  first  thing  to  make  is  the  bottom  of  the  lamp  box,  30  inches  square  ; 
this  is  to  have  cleats  all  around  except  where  the  lamp  enters.  By  having 
boards  planed  on  both  sides,  there  will  be  no  waste  in  cutting  the 
material  for  the  sides.  For  top  cleats,  so  as  not  to  hinder  the  removal  of 
the  hover,  have  narrow  cleats  the  same  thickness  as  the  sides  ; nail  these 
right  on  top  of  the  ends  as  shown  in  Fig.  1.  The  floors  of  the  brooder 
and  of  the  run  are  continuous.  The  legs  of  the  run  are  made  by  extend- 
ing the  siding  to  the  ground  ; they  will  be  about  io£  inches  long,  which 
is  the  depth  of  the  heater  and  lamp 
box,  below  the  floor.  Muslin  may  be 
used  instead  of  glass  for  A. 

When  the  chicks  are  placed  in  the 
brooder,  put  a water  fountain,  made 
by  inverting  a deep  tin  can  into  a 
round  roast-beef  can,  or  other  shallow 
tin  an  inch  or  two  larger  than  the 
other  can.  Bore  an  awl  hole  into  the 
side  of  the  inverted  can  about  a 
quarter  of  an  inch  below  the  edge  of 
the  shallow  tin  ; by  dipping  these  to- 
gether into  a pail  of  water,  filling 
both  while  under  the  water,  inverting 
the  taller  can  into  the  other  tin.  you 
have  a day’s  supply  of  water.  The 
shallow  tin  will  remain  full  as  long 
as  water  remains  in  the  other  can. 

The  first  feed  for  the  chicks  should 


BARRED  PLYMOUTH  ROCK  HEN. 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


3? 


be  cracked  wheat  or  oat  flakes  fed  dry,  feed  little  and  often,  at  regular 
intervals,  only  what  they  eat  clean.  Feed  cracked  wheat  and  oat  flakes 
until  they  are  large  enough  to  eat  whole  wheat  and  cracked  corn. 
Always  keep  fine  grit  and  charcoal,  about  as  large  as  wheat  grain,  where 
they  can  get  at  it.  A little  cabbage  or  onion  chopped  fine  is  good  for  an 
occasional  feed.  Never  feed  anything  sloppy.  Let  them  out  of  the  run 
into  their  little  yard  whenever  the  weather  permits.  Keep  everything 
clean,  and  you  should  raise  nice  chicks.  During  warm  weather,  after  the 
chicks  are  a week  or  ten  days  old,  when  the  sun  shines  they  will  not  re- 
quire artificial  heat.  If  the  Little  Queen  oil  stove  is  not  procurable,  an 
ordinary  hand  lamp  may  be  used,  but  the  Little  Queen  is  the  best 
brooder  stove  that  I have  ever  used.  Keep  the  basin  above  the  oil  filled 
with  water,  and  it  is  safe  and  reliable. 


The  following  design  of  a brooder  is  furnished  by  Capt. 
A Tank  Phillips  of  Chicago,  who  has  been  very  successful  in  poultry 
raising  on  a large  scale.  There  are  many  good  points  in  this 
Brooder,  brooder  : Fig.  i shows  the  tank,  of  galvanized  iron,  20  by  30 
inches,  and  one  and  one-fourth  inches  deep.  A is  the  boiler, 
of  oblong  shape,  seven  inches  high,  and  seven  inches  in  diameter  one  way 
and  five  inches  the  other.  (See  Plan,  Fig.  2).  B is  a smoke  pipe,  or  draft 
chimney,  from  the  lamp.  C C are  two  one  and  one-half  inch  pipes  from 

the  boiler  to  the  bottom 
of  the  tank.  These  pipes 
give  perfect  circulation. 
They  are  covered  with 
flannel  tightly  drawn. 
The  bottom  of  the  tank 
is  also  covered  with  flan- 
nel, and  the  flannel  on 
the  pipes  is  fastened  to 


FiQ.  /. 


the  flannel  on  the  bottom  of  the 
tank,  as  shown  in  Fig.  6,  the  ob- 
ject being  to  imitate  the  breast 
and  body  of  the  hen.  The  tank 
is  held  in  place  by  a tin  or  sheet- 
iron  upright  pipe  made  to  fit 
closely  to  the  boiler.  D is  the  details  of  tank  brooder. 

cap,  or  opening,  for  pouring  water  into  the  tank. 


Fig.  2 shows  the  tank  turned  upside  down,  the  parts  being  repre- 
sented by  the  same  letter  as  in  Fig.  1,  except  X,  which  is  explained  in 

Fig-  5- 

Fig.  3 shows  the  brooder  and  tank  set  up,  but  cut  through  the 
middle,  to  show  the  arrangement.  The  tank  is  shown,  H being  the  tank 
support  pipe  and  R the  floor  to  the  brooder.  S is  a three-inch  hot  air 
chamber,  the  heat  from  the  lamp  warming  this  chamber  so  as  to  keep 
the  floor  barely  warm,  never  hot.  P is  the  lamp  box  and  O is  the  lamp. 
N indicates  the  hinges,  or  where  the  door-top  opens,  and  L the  handle. 


38 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER'S 


V is  the  feed  box  and  is  movable.  The  lamp  is  the  “Gem”  lamp,  with  a 
one  and  one-half  inch  wick,  being  safe,  as  it  has  two  inches  of  water  over 
the  oil,  keeping  it  cool.  The  “Little  Queen”  will  also  answer. 

Fig.  4 is  the  brooder  complete,  the  box  being  four  by  six  feet,  one 
foot  high  at  each  end  and  14  inches  high  in  the  centre,  thus  giving  a 
slight  incline  to  shed  the  water.  The  top  is  a door  or  lid,  having  hinges 
at  the  centre,  and  a handle  at  the  right,  and  the  feed  box  at  the  end.  On 
each  side,  front  and  back,  is  a window,  six  by  thirty  inches.  B is  the 
chimney. 

Fig.  5 is  a cone-shaped  arrangement  to  the  boiler,  showing  how  the 
smoke  is  carried  from  the  lamp,  B is  the  pipe  and  O is  the  lamp.  It  is 
also  shown  as  X in  Fig.  2. 

Fig.  6 shows  how  the  flannel  is  fastened  to  the  pipes  and  to  the 
bottom  of  the  tank. 

The  brooder  uses  but  little  oil  after  once  heated  ; will  hold  50  chicks, 
and  a run  can  be  attached  to  it  for  them.  It  being  a hot  water  brooder, 
it  holds  the  heat  uniformly  and  well.  This  brooder  costs  but  little  and 
can  be  made  by  any  mechanic. 


MANDARIN  DRAKE. 


ALL  Chicks  lived  that  were  hatched, 
the  poultry  business  would  be  a decided 
success  from  the  start.  The  youngsters  are  the 
greatest  charge  of  the  poultryman ; more 
anxiety  and  care  are  manifested  for  their  wel- 
fare than  is  apparent  to  the  observer.  In  the 
chick  must  be  recognized  the  promises  of  the 
adult  bird,  which  is  to  be  the  source  of  profit. 
All  can  testify  that  the  care  of  them  during 
their  early  life  is  no  small  task,  if  good  results  are  to 
be  obtained,  yet  by  close  observance  of  the  laws 
attached  a greater  per  cent,  of  the  chicks  can  be 
raised  than  is  usual. 

The  first  impression  to  be  formed  in  our  minds,  is 
that  the  chick  is  a weak  little  creature  when  hatched,  and  certain  things 
are  needed  to  promote  its  growth.  This  impression  teaches  us  that 
warmth,  feed,  dryness  and  exercise  are  necessary  to  encourage 
their  development  into  strong  and  hardy  birds.  When  the  chick 
is  hatched  the  temperature  is  about  ioo  degrees  before  it  leaves  the  shell; 
this  warmth  should  be  supplied  as  nearly  as  possible  to  prevent  it  being 
chilled  during  its  first  week.  A good  way  is  to  confine  the  hen  and 
brood  in  a close  coop  well  protected  from  dampness  and  draughts.  By 
so  doing  the  liability  of  being  chilled  in  the  early  morning  is  prevented, 
and  the  brood  does  not  become  wet  from  running  in  the  grass  before  the 
dew  is  off  or  after  the  rain. 

Great  loss  is  sustained  by  allowing  the  youngsters  too  much  freedom. 
If  once  thoroughly  chilled  they  seldom  recover.  Bowel  disease  results 
from  exposure,  and  this  is  the  fore-runner  of  death. 

In  feeding  chicks,  keep  in  view  the  fact  that  they  feather  very  rapidly. 
Chicks  do  not  require  any  food  for  24  hours  after  hatching.  For  the 
first  meal  feed  dry  rolled  oats.  This  should  be  fed  for  the  first  day. 
Stale  bread  crumbs  may  be  mixed  with  the  rolled  oats.  Feed 
all  that  they  will  ’eat  up  clean  but  do  not  leave  any  food  on  the  ground 
to  sour.  Keep  in  easy  access  to  the  chicks  powdered  charcoal,  ground 
bone,  sharp  grit  or  coarse  sand.  A good  food  is  made  by  mixing  one 
pound  of  cornmeal,  one-half  pound  of  middlings,  one-half  pound  of 
ground  meat,  two  ounces  of  bone-meal,  a pinch  of  salt,  and  one  tea- 
spoonful of  bread  soda.  Moisten  with  milk  or  water  and  bake  like  bread  ; 
crumble  and  feed  every  two  hours.  Another  recipe  is  to  bake  a loaf  of 
the  following  : Equal  parts  of  bran,  cornmeal,  oat  meal,  and  a small 
portion  of  linseed  meal,  seasoned  with  salt  ; bake  in  an  oven  like  other 
bread.  Crumble  and  feed  dry.  Never  let  the  chicks  run  outside  of  the 
pen  unless  the  weather  is  warm. 


40 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


A good  bill  of  fare  for  the  chicks  can  be  made  from  the  following 
foods  : Cracked  wheat,  cracked  corn,  buckwheat,  oats,  sunflower  seed, 
bread  crumbs,  lean  meat  chopped  fine,  steeped  clover  hay  mixed  with 
bran,  cornmeal  (scalded)  mixed  with  a little  sand,  green  food — consisting 
of  lettuce  heads,  cabbage,  sugar  beets — chopped  fine,  occasionally  a few 
onions,  changing  about  so  that  they  will  have  different  foods  each  day. 

after  that  three 
times  a day.  Al- 
ways keep  plenty 
of  litter  in  the  pen, 
such  as  chaff  or 
cut  straw.  Give 
plenty  of  clean 
and  keep  the  coops 


Small  chicks 
should  be  fed 
every  two  hours  ; 
the  second  week 
the  time  of  feed- 
ing can  be  made 

three  hours,  and  FIG-  *• 

sand.  Change  the  drinking  water  twice  a day, 
thoroughly  cleaned  and  whitewashed. 

When  feeding  soft  foods  always  use  a trough  for  the  same.  Do  not 
place  it  on  the  ground  to  sour  and  mold.  Such  a trough  can  easily  be 
made,  as  shown  in  the  Fig.  i,  and  is  handy  to  clean  after  using. 

The  proper  housing  of  young  chicks  has  much  to  do  with  their 
future.  In  the  construction  of  coops,  dryness  and  warmth  should  be 
first  considered.  The  roof  should  be 
water-tight  and  the  floor  should  be 
raised  from  the  ground. 

Figs.  2,  3,  4 and  5 are  excellent  de- 
for  coops  for  young  chicks. 

FIG- 2-  They  are  large  and  give  plenty  of 

room  for  the  hen  and  brood.  A very  good  way  is  to  fig.  3. 
place  them  under  a low  open  shed  to  protect  them  from  driving  rains. 
Other  plans  for  coops,  with 
runs  attached  are  shown  in  Figs. 

6,  7,  8 and  9.  There  are  many 
advantages  to  these  coops.  By 
having  the  hen  and  brood  con- 
fined in  such  pens  there  is  no 
fig.  4.  danger  of  the  chicks  becoming 

chilled  by  rain  and  wet.  The  hen  being  confined,  fig.  5. 

she  is  always  in  easy  access  to  the  chicks,  and  when  they  become  chilled 
they  can  go  to  her.  In  these  runs  the  chicks  are  free  from  molestation 
oy  older  birds. 

A coop  that  anyone  can  make  with 
little  trouble  is  shown  in  Fig.  10.  Take 
an  old  barrel  and  tack  every  hoop  on 
each  side  of  the  seam  between  the  ~ . 
staves  with  one  inch  wrought  nails. 

After  clinching  the  nails  saw  off  on  the 
seam.  Then  spread  the  barrel  open,  as 

shown  in  fig.  6. 

the  cut,  by  cutting  a board  20  inches  long 
for  the  back  of  the  coop,  and  two  small 
pieces  to  tack  laths  to  on  the  front.  The 
upper  section  of  the  back  is  fastened  with 
leather  hinges,  so  that  it  may  be  opened  at 
fig.  7.  pleasure. 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


41 


FIG.  8.  FIG.  9. 

When  the  chicks  are  a few  weeks  old  a feeding  pen  should  be  pro- 
vided, as  shown  in  Fig.  n.  Such  a pen  will  prevent  the  greedy  hens  and 

larger  chicks  from  rob- 
bing the  little  fellows 
of  their  food. 

It  is  not  good  policy 
1o  allow  the  young 
to  run  with  the 

f:g.  ii. 


FIG.  10. 

older  ones.  It  would  be  well  to 
separate  them  as  early  as  you  can 
and  provide  them  with  a roosting 
house,  as  shown  in  Fig.  12.  This 
house  can  be  built  at  a small  cost. 

It  should  be  perfectly  dry,  with  low 
roosts  and  a lattice  front,  facing  the  south.  The  house  should  be  closed 
at  night.  From  the  time  the  chicks  are  weaned  until  late  Fall  they  can 
be  kept  in  this  house. 

This  coop  of  our  invention,  published  in  the  American 
Ideal  Coop.  Agriculturist,  is  the  most  elaborate  of  its  kind  in  this  chapter. 

In  this  plan  the  coops  are  built  three  in  number,  on  the 


IDEAL  coop. 


42 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


principle  that  poultry  houses  are  arranged  to  contain  a variety  of  fowls 
with  separate  runs  attached.  Each  division  is  separate  and  can  be  used 
for  one,  two  or  three  broods  at  a time,  if  desired.  The  general  custom 
is  to  have  individual  coops  placed  promiscuously  around  the  yard  ; by 
this  arrangement  they  are  in  one  spot  and  easy  of  attention,  saving  labor 
when  a number  of  broods  are  hatched. 


When  the  hens  and  broods  are  allowed  to  roam  at  will  for  the  first 
three  weeks,  there  is  no  telling  how  many  chicks  may  be  lost  before  they 
attain  the  age  to  resist  the  variations  of  the  weather  and  to  care  for  them- 
selves. By  confining  them  for  two  or  three  weeks  they  are  enabled  to 
receive  every  attention  needed  for  their  rapid  growth  and  development ; 
i:i  the  coops  here  shown  they  are  free  from  the  torments  of  the  older  birds, 
or  the  angry  peck  of  an  ill-natured  hen  as  they  scramble  for  food  and 
drink.  The  mother  hen  has  nothing  to  detract  her  attention  from  the 
foung,  and  performs  her  maternal  duties  in  a motherly  way. 


The  ground  plan  of  the  coop  is  six  feet  square,  with  three  divisions 
two  by  six  feet  each.  One-half  of  the  frame  is  covered  with  matched 
boards,  to  serve  as  a floor  for  the  enclosed  part.  The  highest  part  is 
three  and  one-half  feet,  sloping  toward 
the  rear  ; the  open  portions  are  cov- 
ered with  one-inch  wire  mesh.  The 
partitions  of  the  enclosure  are  solid 
boards  two  feet  high,  with  laths  at  the 
to  afford  ventilation  • the  partitions 
of  wire  runs  are  made  of  laths,  placed 
one-half  inch  apart,  to  avoid  fighting, 
between  the  hens,  but  permit  a free  pas- 
sage of  air  from  one  space  to  the  other. 


--  2F1  — 2FT  --4* — ZFT  -*J 

Front  Elevation. 


(WITHOUT  aviary.) 


The  roof  should  be  made  as  close  as  possible,  and  covered  with 
tarred  paper  to  insure  dryness  within  ; the  sides  should  be  built  of  even 
boards  and  stripped  over  the  cracks  with  one-half  by  three-inch  strips. 
Place  dry  earth  on  the  floors  of  the  inclosed  parts  one  inch  thick,  and  a 
little  straw  in  the  rear  for  the  hens  and  chicks  to  lie  on.  In  the  wired 
parts  cover  the  ground  to  a thickness  of  two  inches  with  white  sand  ; 

this  prevents  dampness  after  a rain.  Keep 
the  coop  well  cleaned  and  whitewashed  ; 
sprinkle  insect-powder  in  the  corners  to 
keep  out  vermin.  Place  water  in  fountains 
in  the  runs  ; scatter  the  grain  food  on  the 
ground  and  feed  the  soft  food  in  pans  to 
avoid  the  waste  part  souring  on  the  ground. 
Never  feed  or  place  the  water  fountains  in 
the  closed  part,  as  this  is  intended  for 
roosting  only.  After  taking  the  hen  and 
brood  from  the  nest,  they  should  be  kept 
in  the  roosting  part  for  a couple  of  days  ; 
the  lattice  door  separating  the  coop  and 
the  run  should  be  closed  during  this  time 
to  k-eep  the  hen  confined,  but  the  brood  may  have  free  access  through 
the  lattice  door  to  the  run.  After  this,  the  lattice  door  may  be  kept  raised, 
and  the  hen  and  brood  can  use  the  entire  space  of  house  and  run.  When 
the  chicks  have  grown  sufficiently  strong,  the  outer  door  may  be  raised, 


POULTRY  BOOK 


43 


an  1 the  brood  can  range  on  the  grass  during  good  weather,  and  be 
cooped  at  night  until  the  hen  leaves  them,  when  they  should  be  tree  to 
range  to  themselves  and  be  cooped  in  a different  house  until  they  are 
ready  for  the  pens  in  the  Fall. 


BLACK  SUMATRA  GAME  COCK. 


Elsewhere  in  this  volume  the  subject  of  feeding  has  been  treated  at 
length  to  show  the  practical  methods  of  using  the  foods  to  the  best 
advantage.  Under  this  heading  the  idea  is  to  substantiate  these  methods 
by  clearly  defining  the  practices  of  some  of  the  successful  breeders 
of  poultry,  and  give  their  experiences  in  this  particular  field.  A 
careful  perusal  of  the  following  recipes  will  prove  of  more  than 
ordinary  interest  on  the  subject  of  feeding,  by  establishing  a fixed 
formula  for  the  preparation  of  the  foods,  and  illustrating  the  manner 
of  using  them  advantageously  : 

An  excellent  combination  is  to  use  bran  and  clover 
Bran  as  Food,  together,  sprinkling  the  bran  on  the  clover.  The  feeding 
of  poultry  on  grain  only  is  compelling  them  to  subsist  on 
concentrated  food,  which  is  lacking  in  many  substances  that  are  of  im- 
portance in  egg  production.  The  cost  of  bran  is  small  compared 
with  its  real  food  value,  and  poultrymen  can  make  it  a portion  of  the 
regular  ration  with  advantage,  as  it  is  not  only  nutritious,  but  is  also 
highly  relished  by  poultry.  Herewith  we  give  the  average  of  eighty- 
eight  analyses  of  wheat  bran,  two  analyses  of  corn  bran,  and,  deducted 
therefrom,  the  percentage  of  nutritive  elements  contained  in  a mixture 
of  two-thirds  wheat  and  one-third  corn  bran  : 


Ash. 
per  cent. 

Protein, 
per  cent. 

Carbohydrates, 
per  cent. 

Fat. 

per  cent. 

Wheat  bran 

5.80 

i5-4o 

53-90 

4.00 

Corn  bran 

16.45 

7.12 

5o-38  % 

5.00 

Mixture 

9 • 35 

12.64 

5 2 * 39 

4-33 

A given  weight  of  the  mixture,  compared  with  the  same  amount  of 
pure  bran,  would  contain  nearly  twice  as  much  ash,  20  per  cent,  less 
protein,  about  the  same  amount  of  carbohydrates  and  slightly  more  fat. 
The  digestible  nutrients  in  100  pounds  of  the  wheat  bran  would  be  about 
11.72  pounds  of  protein,  44.66  pounds  of  carbohydrates,  and  2.58  pounds 
of  fat.  We  are  not  prepared  to  say  what  they  would  be  in  the  corn  bran, 
as  we  are  not  aware  that  they  have  ever  been  ascertained.  As,  however, 
the  fiber  is  left  out  in  the  statement  of  the  contents  of  both  by-products., 
and  the  question  of  “Woodiness”  is  thereby  eliminated,  the  digestibility 
would  probably  be  about  the  same  proportion  of  protein  in  corn  bran 
digestible  as  in  the  protein  of  the  wheat  bran,  which  would  make  the 
corn  bran  contain  about  5.25  per  cent  of  protein,  or,  say,  half  as  much  as 
the  wheat  bran.  This  is  the  chief  element  for  which  bran  is  bought. 
The  mixture  would,  therefore,  be  worth  about  one-sixth  less  than  wheat. 


46 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


The  poultry  raiser  who  is  feeding  the  little  chicks  red 
Cooked  Food,  pepper,  carbolic  acid  and  turpentine  should  stop  all  that 
and  bake  the  feed.  Mix  it  up  as  if  you  were  going  to 
make  corn  bread  for  dinner,  leaving  out  the  eggs  and  sugar.  Take  sour 
milk,  soda  and  salt, stir  in  your  meal  and  then  bake.  When  baked, crumble 
fine,  soften  and  feed  the  little  chicks.  Feed  them  baked  corn  bread  until 
they  are  three  or  four  weeks  old,  and  gapes  will  be  a thing  unknown  in 
chicks.  You  can  make  enough  to  do  two  or  three  days  at  one  time. 
Save  all  the  scraps  of  bread,  cake  and  scrapings  of  all  kinds  to  feed  for  a 
change.  A large  amount  of  valuable  material  may  be  utilized  if  cooked. 
Pea  pods,  string  beans,  apples,  squashes,  and  many  other  articles,  if 
placed  in  a pot  and  boiled  until  tender,  will  furnish  a quantity  of  food  that 
is  really  more  serviceable  than  too  much  grain.  Ducks  and  geese  may 
be  kept  at  little  expense  by  this  mode  of  feeding,  while  turkeys  and 


PAIR  SILVER  LACED  WYANDOTTRS. 

chickens  will  appreciate  the  change  at  once.  Turnips  and  carrots,  if 
cooked  and  fed  to  all  kinds  of  fowls,  will  furnish  a cheap  and  nutritious 
diet,  promoting  health  and  preventing  too  much  fat.  In  feeding  such 
material  no  grain  is  necessary  except  at  night,  when  whole  corn,  wheat 
and  oats  should  be  given.  One  of  the  most  valuable  foods  is  cooked 
potatoes  and  sour  milk.  If  this  be  fed,  first  thickened  with  ground 
oats,  it  will  cause  the  hens  to  lay  more  eggs  than  when  an  exclusive 
grain  diet  is  given.  Fowls  should  have  plenty  of  bulky  food  if  they  are 
to  be  made  profitable. — Rural  New  Yorker. 

Green  food,  or  some  suitable  substitute,  is  reckoned  one 
Clover  Chaff,  of  the  indispensables  for  feeding  poultry.  The  tender 
blades  of  grass  and  the  crisp  leaves  of  lettuce  are  not  always 
to  be  had,  but  there  are  substitutes  for  these  to  be  found,  among 
which  is  the  chaff  that  collects  on  the  barn  floor  where  large  quantities 
of  clover  hay  is  fed.  This  is  regarded  by  the  average  farmer  as  worth- 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


47 


less,  and  is  unceremoniously 
scraped  from  the  floor  into  the 
manure  pit,  or  is  used  for  lit- 
ter for  the  cows  and  hogs. 

Yet  it  really  consists  of  the 
choicest  parts  of  the  hay,  being 
composed  of  fine  pieces  of 
leaves,  broken  bits  of  heads, 
and  a greater  or  less  quantity 
of  clover  seed.  It  is  too  valu- 
able to  waste.  It  should  be 
daily  gathered  and  stored  in 
barrels  or  boxes  for  use.  It 
may  be  fed  in  one  of  three 
vrays.  If  it  be  placed  in  boxes, 
conveniently  arranged  for  the 
fowls  to  get  at,  so  they 
can  not  waste  it,  a large  quan- 
tity will  be  eaten  dry.  It  may 
be  rendered  more  palatable  by 
pouring  boiling  hot  water  over 
it  in  some  convenient  recep- 
tacle and  placing  over  the 
mass  a cover  to  keep  in  the 
steam  and  allow  it  to  swell  and 
partially  cook.  The  finest  por- 
tions cf  it  may  be  stirred  into 
the  soft  feed  and  the  fowls  will  eat  it  with  relish.  As  clover  is  rich  in 
the  elements  that  increase  the  laying,  there  is  every  reason  why  it 
should  be  largely  used.  Many  successful  breeders  are  recognizing  this 
fact,  and  clover,  in  one  form  or  another,  is  becoming  a staple  poultry 
food.  Larger  quantities  are  used  each  year,  and  where  the  use  has  once 
begun  it  is  seldom  discontinued.  It  is  by  making  use  of  the  materials 
which  are  often  considered  valueless  that  poultry  serves  a very  useful 
purpose  upon  the  farm.  The  cost  of  keeping  is  reduced,  and  what  was 
once  considered  pure  waste,  becomes  converted  into  marketable  products. 
— Poultry  World. 

If  you  have  a second  crop  of  clover,  cut  it  while  green  and 
Clover,  tender,  dry  it  carefully,  preserving  all  the  leaves  and  blossoms 
possible  and  store  it  up  for  poultry  food  in  winter.  To  feed  it 
properly,  it  should  be  cut  fine  and  fed  dry,  but  the  best  way  of  preparing 
it  is  to  cut  it  in  the  afternoon.  At  night  scald  it  in  a tub  or  bucket  by 
pouring  boiling  water  over  it  ; throw  a cover  (old  carpet  or  anything) 
over  the  tub,  allow  it  to  stand  all  night  and  in  the  morning  it  will  be  still 
warm,  and  possesses  a savory  odor  that  will  almost  tempt  you  to  eat  it 
yourself.  To  every  bucketful  of  cut  hay  add  one  quart  of  the  fol- 
lowing mixture  : Ground  corn,  ground  oats  and  bran,  ten  pounds  ; lin- 
seed meal,  one  pound  ; salt,  one  ounce  ; mix  well.  Feed  in  a trough, 
and  give  the  hens  all  they  will  eat,  twice  a day.  Each  hen  will  walk 
away  when  she  has  eaten  all  she  wishes.  The  bucket  of  dry  food  (scalded 
at  night,  as  mentioned)  will  feed  about  thirty  hens  and  perhaps  more, 
and  they  will  relish  it  highly.  No  other  green  food  will  be  necessary. 
A gill  of  wheat  may  be  scattered  in  the  litter,  so  as  to  induce  the  hens  to 
hunt  and  search. — Poultry  News. 


4S 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


The  usual  way  of  feeding  ground  meat  is  to  mix  it  with 
Ground  Meat,  ground  grain  of  some  kind.  This  is  unnecessary.  It 
should  be  fed  as  a variety,  and  in  a way  to  afford  a 
change.  There  should  be  certain  meals,  on  special  days,  for  giving  it  to 
the  hens.  For  instance,  give  it  at  night  on  every  other  day  in  a trough, 
unmixed  with  other  food,  so  that  the  hens  will  have  nothing  but  the 
ground  meat  for  that  meal.  The  next  morning  give  some  other  fpod,  as 
corn,  and  the  following  meal  may  be  of  wheat  or  cut  clover.  The 
ground  meat  may  be  given  plentifully  if  fed  in  this  manner.  Simply 
allow  the  hens  to  have  all  of  it  that  they  will  eat,  and  they  will  relish  it 
and  find  it  beneficial.  If  fed  on  meat  every  meal  it  may  cause  bowel 
difficulty  ; but  given  once  every  two  days  it  will  not  be  in  any  manner 
injurious,  and  will  prove  of  great  assistance  in  inducing  the  hens  to  lay 
during  the  cold  weather. — Farm  and  Fireside. 

One  of  the  easiest  ways  of  providing  green  and  succulent 
Ensilage,  food  for  the  poultry  during  the  winter  time  is  to  feed  them 
ensilage,  and  the  birds  thrive  so  well  upon  it  that  their  egg- 
producing  capacities  are  increased  nearly  ten  per  cent.  The  hens  eat  the 
ensilage  greedily,  and  it 
acts  as  a fair  substitute  for 
green  grass  and  vegetables 
which  cannot  be  obtained 
in  the  winter.  The  im- 
portance of  this  preserved 
food  for  poultry  has  not 
been  fully  appreciated  by 
farmers.  Where  the  ensil- 
age is  kept  for  cattle  a little 
of  it  thrown  in  the  poultry 
yard  would  hardly  be 
missed,  and  very  appreci- 
able results  will  be  appar- 
ent in  the  egg  basket.  The 
ensilage  for  hens  can  be 
composed  of  almost  any 
green  food  if  it  is  cut  and 
packed  away  properly. 

Farmers  keeping  ensilage 
for  cattle  can  throw  a little 
of  it  to  the  hens, but  the  poul- 
trymen  must  economize 
in  filling  the  silc.  Hens 
find  nutriment  and  a stimu-  silver  spangled  Hamburg  cock. 

lant  in  green  grass,  and  this  when  stored  in  the  silo  is  loved  dearly  by 
them  during  the  winter  season.  Rye,  when  cut  early  enough,  is  cheap, 
and  a good  nutriment  for  the  poultry.  Oats,  likewise,  form  a good  crop 
for  the  silo  when  it  is  to  be  fed  to  hens,  and  a crop  may  be  gathered  early 
in  the  season,  so  that  the  land  can  be  turned  over  to  some  other  crop. 
Corn  is  not  so  valuable  an  ensilage  for  the  hens  as  the  others  mentioned, 
for  the  tough  stalks  cannot  be  disposed  of  so  readily  as  the  grass.  There 
is  more  waste  to  it  unless  cattle  are  also  kept  on  the  farm  to  eat  them. 
The  progressive  poultryman  will  plant  grass,  oats  or  rye  to  fill  the  silo 
for  the  hens  in  the  winter  season.  In  the  spring  and  summer  there  are 


POULTRY  BOOK 


49 


plenty  of  green  things  for  the  birds,  and  they  may  even  be  allowed  to 
range  through  the  fields  where  the  grass  is  growing.  Their  range  in  this 
way  is  not  restricted,  but  the  soil  is  growing  their  winter  as  well  as  their 
summer  food. — Farmers’  Review. 


PAIR  HOUDANS. 

Many  farmers  do  not  realize  the  necessity  of  the  fowls 
Cabbage,  having  green  food  in  winter  ; the  fowls,  if  running  at  large, 
help  themselves  in  summer,  and  nothing  is  thought  of  it. 
When  the  frosts  have  killed  the  grass  and  all  annual  plants,  and  the  snow 
covers  the  ground,  biddy  can  get  nothing  herself  to  take  the  place  of 
the  grass  and  other  green  food  she  ate  so  freely  in  summer.  Hang  a 
head  of  cabbage  in  each  pen,  and  see  how  rapidly  it  will  be  pecked  in 
pieces  and  eaten.  If  hung  about  18  inches  above  the  floor,  compelling 
the  birds  to  jump  for  it,  all  the  better;  the  exercise  is  an  additional 
advantage  gained,  and  exercise  quickens  the  circulation,  stimulates 
digestion  and  promotes  health.  Green  food  is  to  fowls  much  what  fruit 
is  to  a human  being,  toning  and  correcting  the  internal  organs.  Cabbage 
is  particularly  valuable,  because  it  has  a large  proportion  of  nitrogen  ; 
hence  balances  the  carbon  of  the  grain  ration.  If  you  want  fowls  to  lay 
in  winter,  when  eggs  pay  a big  profit,  feed  them  a nitrogenous  rather 
than  a carbonaceous  ration  ; and  one  of  the  vegetables  richest  in  nitrogen 
is  cabbage. — Farm  Poultry. 

There  is  not  much  in  a gill  of  millet  seed,  but  there  is  nothing 
Millet,  that  entices  hens  ’ and  chicks  to  work  more  industriously  over  a 
pile  of  litter,  such  as  cut  straw  or  leaves,  than  a small  quantity  of 
millet  seed.  Do  not  give  a full  meal  of  the  seed,  but  only  enough  to 
induce  them  to  seek  for  it.  As  a food  for  young  chicks,  it  is  excellent. 
Prepare  the  food  like  this  : Take  equal  parts  of  scalded  bread  and  oat- 
meal with  as  little  water  as  possible,  to  which  add  coarse  corn-meal,  about 
enough  to  make  the  mixture  dry  enough  to  crumble  with  the  fingers. 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


Now,  after  the  chick  is  24  hours  old,  feed  this  food  to  it  every  two  or 
three  hours  until  it  is  about  three  days  old,  and  then  give  it  millet  seed, 
and  as  soon  as  it  learns  to*  eat  the  millet,  leave  off  the  other  food  and 
give  it  good  fresh  water  in  such  a manner  that  it  cannot  climb  into  it.  See 
that  the  chicks  are  warm  enough  to  keep  them  from  pushing  up  into 
corners  and  trampling  each  other  down,  and,  above  all,  give  them  plenty 
of  good,  fresh  air  and  sunshine.  We  have  raised  all  the  way  from  100  to 
800  chickens  on  nothing  but  millet  seed  after  the  second  day.  They  will 
soon  learn  to  eat  and  if  you  like  to  see  anything  eat,  you  will  enjoy 
seeing  a large  bunch  of  small  chickens  eating  millet. — Southern  Planter. 

My  front  yard,  on  which  I have  raised  a fine  sward  of  lawn 
Lawn  grass,  is  clipped  once  a week  during  the  summer.  I use  a 
carrying  attachment  on  the  lawn  mower,  in  which  the  cut 
Clippings,  grass  fell  in  one  heap.  The  grass  was  dried  in  the  shade  and 
packed  in  sacks.  When  the  snow  began  to  fall  and  covered 
the  ground,  I gave  my  hens  a portion  of  the  grass  every  day,  and  it  was 
relished  like  corn.  There  was  an  increase  in  the  egg  yield  despite  the 
cold  weather.  The  grass  being  very  sweet  and  succulent,  I believe  it 
makes  a very  good  substitute  for  clover,  which  is  not  accessible  on  a town 
lot  poultry  yard.  The  hens  will  eat  it  up  clean,  as  it  is  free  from  stems, 
short,  and  consists  of  white  clover  leaves  and  tender  blades  of  other 
lawn  grass. — Correspondent  to  Farm  Journal. 

Few  poultry  raisers  really  appreciate  the  true  worth  of  the 
Sunflower  sunflower.  It  is  very  easily  grown  and  produces  food  of  a 
rich  and  nutritious  quality.  When  fed  properly  to  fowls  it 
Seeds.  promotes  laying  and  produces  a luster  upon  the  plumage  and 
otherwise  benefits  the  bird.  When  fowls  learn  to  eat  the 
seeds  they  become  very  fond  of  them,  and  I have  found  them  excellent 
mixed  and  fed  with  oats.  The  sunflower  has  other  merits  also  which 


BLACK  EAST  INDIAN  DUCK. 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


claim  the  attention  of  those  who  would  be  successful  poultry  raisers 
The  one  which  we  wish  now  to  call  special  attention  is  their  use  as 
shelter  for  poultry.  While  fowls  enjoy  the  sunlight  at  the  same  time 
they  require  shade,  to  produce  the  best  results  and  we  know  of  no  better 
and  cheaper  protection  to  suggest  than  the  planting  of  sunflower  groves 
The  seed  can  be  planted  at  most  any  time  in  the  spring  when  other  seed 
is  planted — often  patches  are  self  sown — and  by  warm  weather  afford  a 
most  excellent  protection.  They  have  large  leaves  which  shield  from  the 
sun  and  the  stalks  grow  so  heavy  that  they  form  a protection  in  winter, 
when  thickly  planted.  Fowls  and  chicks  take  readily  to  the  protection 
thus  afforded  and  enjoy  it  hugely.  The  ground  is  generally  dry  under 
them  and  fowls  enjoy  dusting  and  resting  under  the  stately  and  beautiful 
flowers — they  are  indeed  the  chickens’  flowers.  We  would  therefore  in 
the  light  of  these  advantages  advise  those  who  can  possibly  do  so  to 
plant  them — it  will  pay  you  to  try  it. — Western  Rural. 

Hens  should  have  all  the  milk  they  can  readily  drink  ; no  kind 
Milk,  of  food  is  better  adapted  to  egg  production.  Some  milk  mixed 
with  bran  will  not  fatten  them  * but  if  given  freely,  the  vessels  in 
which  it  is  fed  will 
need  frequent  cleans- 
ing to  prevent  them 
from  becoming  of- 
fensive. With  milk 
to  drink,  fowls  hav- 
ing a range  will  do 
well  enough  on  one 
meal  a day,  as  this 
will  encourage  activ- 
ity in  scratching  and 
picking  up  what  they 
can.  Thisfeed  should 
be  given  very  early 
in  the  morning,  and 
should  be  steamed 
clover  hay,  with  a 
little  corn  and  oat 
chop  and  bran  mixed 
with  it,  and  a little 
salt  added  to  make 
it  more  palatable. 

The  birds  will  have 
a ravenous  appetite, 
and  they  can  eat  all 
of  this  feed  they 
want  without  injury. 

Sour  milk  may  be 
fed  to  hens,  but  not  partridge  cochin  hen. 

to  chicks.  Fresh  milk  is  preferable  for  chicks,  but  the  sour  milk  may  be 
used  for  mixing  ground  grain  food.  For  ducklings  it  matters  but  little 
whether  the  milk  is  fresh  or  not,3as  they  will  use  it  in  a short  time. 
There  is  12  per  cent  of  solid  matter  in  milk  before  it  is  skimmed,  and 
from  6 to  8 per  cent  after.  Fresh  milk  does  not  contain  any  more  egg- 
producing  material  than  skim  milk,  except  carbon,  which  is  easily 


52 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER'S 


obtained  from  other  sources.  Give  the  hens  all  the  shim  milk  or  butter- 
milk they  can  drink.  For  chicks  the  milk  should  not  be  sour,  as  it  may 
cause  bowel  disease,  but  adult  fowls  may  drink  all  kinds  without  injury. 
Curds  are  excellent  for  hens,  and  even  whey  may  be  used  in  mixing  food. 
— California  Cackler. 

As  an  egg  food  wheat  is  highly  recommended,  and  is  unsur- 
Wheat.  passed  as  a basis  for  the  grain  diet.  It  contains  more  mineral 

matter  and  nitrogen  than  corn,  and  no  grain  food  is  better  for 
pushing  the  growing  stock  ahead  than  wheat.  When  farmers  are  waiting 
for  the  new  crop  of  corn,  they  will  find  it  profitable  to  feed  wheat  to  push 
the  fowls  and  other  stock  ahead,  for  every  day  saved  in  feeding  is  feed 
saved.  New  wheat  is  especially  good  for  fowls  and  every  poultryman 
who  raises  wheat  should  place  a small  stack  in  the  vicinity  of  the  poultry 
house,  unless  the  fields  are  close  to  where  the  fowls  run.  The  town 
poultry  raiser  who  can  should  buy  some  wheat  in  the  bundle  to  feed  to 
his  hens,  and  let  the  hens  thresh  it  out  themselves.  In  our  own  experi- 
ence we  have  always  found 
that  new  wheat  started  the 
hens  to  laying  afresh  and 
this  year  we  planted  a little 
patch  of  wheat  ourselves. 

As  soon  as  it  began  to  ripen 
we  cut  some  with  a scythe 
every  day  and  threw  into 
the  yards,  and  it  wasn’t  a 
week  till  the  egg  produc- 
tion increased.  By  this 
means  we  get  the  new 
wheat  long  before  it  is  in 
market. — Colorado  Fancier. 

While  corn  and 
Oats,  wheat  is  fed  more 
frequently  to  fowls 
than  oats,  yet,  during  the 
warm  months  and  as  a 
change  of  the  grain  diet  in 
winter,  nothing  is  better 
than  oats.  Keep  a box  of 
oats  just  inside  the  hen 
house  door,  that  the  fowls 
may  help  themselves  when- 
ever disposed.  We  have  no  fear  of  feeding  too  many,  for  they  never 
gorge  themselves  with  oats  as  they  will  with  corn.  Sometimes  they  grow 
tired  of  them,  though,  and  seem  hungering  for  a change  of  food.  Then 
remove  the  oat  dish  from  before  them  for  a few  days  at  a time,  throw 
them  a little  wheat  in  the  morning  and  what  corn  you  deem  advisable 
just  as  they  are  going  on  to  the  roost  at  night,  and  the  result  of  this 
watchfulness  is  a good  supply  of  eggs.  Ground  oats  are  excellent  at  all 
times.  When  the  hens  are  fat  give  them  no  grain,  but  whole  oats  and 
make  them  scratch  for  them. — Practical  Farmer. 

There  is  considerable  discussion  over  the  value  of  corn,  and  we 
Corn,  may  also  include  wheat,  as  food  for  poultry.  The  advocates  of 
corn  claim  that  as  long  as  it  can  be  had  at  a low  cost  it  is  the  best 


BEARDED  SILVER  POLISH  COCK. 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


53 


of  all  foods,  while  others  contend  that  it  has  a tendency  to  create  too 
much  fat,  and  really  retards  egg  production.  The  matter  is  one  that 
may  be  discussed  from  several  standpoints.  If  a hen  is  laying  she  neces- 
sarily uses  a large  proportion  of  carbonaceous  material  in  producing  the 
egg,  the  yolk  requiring  quite  a large  quantity;  but  if  she  is  not  laying 

she  is  liable  to  become  too  fat 
if  corn  or  wheat  is  fed  exclu- 
sively. The  fact  is  that  no 
grain  is  suitable  as  an  exclusive 
food  for  laying  hens.  The  pro- 
duction of 
eggs  de- 
mands a va- 
riety, and 
corn  is  no  ex- 
ception to  the 
rule.  It  is  the 
best  of  all 
grains  to  feed 
in  winter  be- 
cause it  is  heat 
producing 
and  keeps  the 
fowls  warm  ; 
but  it  is  un- 
suit able  in 
summer. 
Feeding  corn,, 
If  fed  to  fowls  when  not 
That  it  will 


PAIR  SINGLE  COMB  WHITE  LEGHORNS. 


like  everything  else,  must  be  done  judiciously, 
really  required  it  is  expensive  because  it  leads  to  no  results, 
promote  egg  production  when  given  in  connection  with  other  substances 
is  well  known,  and  the  experienced  poultryman  can  utilize  it  to  the  best 
advantage  if  he  will  study  the  requirements  of  his  flock.  The  opinion 
that  corn  is  very  nourishing  food  for  fowls  is  so  universal  that  no  further 
thought  is  given  to  the  matter.  If  any  one  should  suggest  that  corn 
would  be  easier  of  digestion  if  soaked  or  boiled,  he  would  likely  receive 
the  answer  that  corn  was  nothing  hard  to  digest  for  birds,  which  swal- 
lowed stones  and  other  hard  substances  without  detriment.  A moment’s 
thought,  however,  will  convince  that  the  mill  stones  and  the  grist  are 
different  things,  and  feeding  hard  grain,  although  not  exactly  like  feeding 
the  mill  stones  with  pebbles,  bears  a certain  likeness  to  it.  The  trouble 
attendant  in  the  preparation  of  food,  if  it  is  to  be  cooked,  may  ipdeed 
seem  very  disproportionate  to  the  advantage  to  be  derived  from  such 
treatment,  but  in  reality  little  need  be  spent,  as  before  going  the  rounds 
of  the  nests  a little  hot  water  may  be  poured  over  the  grain,  a tight  cover 
put  on  the  kettle  and  the  whole  placed  over  the  stove,  when  by  the  time 
your  rounds  are  completed  the  corn  will  have  become  steamed  and  mellow 
and  have  lost  none  of  its  good  qualities.  Remember,  each  hen  has  a 
certain  amount  of  animal  force  to  be  expended  every  day  in  some  direc- 
tion, and  the  less  she  has  to  give  to  digesting  her  food  the  more  she  will 
have  to  be  expended  in  egg  producing.  The  advantages  of  the  warm 
food  in  winter  when  much  food  goes  toward  producing  animal  heat  to 
withstand  the  cold  are  twofold — from  the  direct  action  of  the  warmth 


54 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


and  the  slower  action  ot  the 
food  itself,  to  say  nothing 
of  the  fact  that  the  content 
produced  by  nourishing 
food  will  result  in  more 
eggs,  for  a hen  thoroughly 
at  home  will  lay  more  eggs 
than  a discontented  one. 
We  have  performed  the  ex- 
periment ourselves  and 
know  that  feeding  boiled 
corn  does  pay,  and  it  is  as 
the  result  of  experience  that 
we  offer  this  plan  to  our 
friends. — Massachu  setts 
Ploughman. 

The  value  of  all 
Bones,  foods  depends  up- 
on their  digestibil- 
ity. The  gteen  bone,  con- 
taining its  natural  juices,  is 
digestible,  especially  by 
birds,  and  when  in  a very 
fine  condition,  it  is  also  di- 
gested by  animals,  because 
andalusian  hen.  its  particles  are  less  dense; 

but  the  dry  bone  having  lost  its  solvent  agent,  has  become  harder,  its 
particles  re-arranging  closer  together,  and  is  only  slowly  digestible,  if  at 
all.  Bear  in  mind  that  it  is  not  the  amount  of  food  eaten  that  gives  the 
best  results,  but  the  amount  digested.  Nothing  will  make  a chick  grow 
as  rapidly  as  will  green 
bone — in  fact, the  growth 
seems  marvelous.  There 
are  several  bone  cutters 
now  in  the  market,  and 
they  are  all  that  is 
claimed  for  them.  The 
object  of  this  is  to  im- 
press upon  all  who  keep 
poultry  the  necessity  and 
importance  of  utilizing 
th  waste  materials. lEggs 
are  always  cash  in  the 
market  and  especially  in 
winter.  Bones  are  more 
plentiful  in  winter  than 
are  some  other  valuable 
materials.  The  bone  cut- 
ters are  labor  saving ; 
they  permit  the  use  of 
valuable  bone,  and  they 
pay  back  their  cost  in 

short  time.  Ther~  WHITE  CRESTED  BLACK  POLISH  COCK. 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


55 


many  things  which  cannot  be  explained,  but  which  present  themselves  as 
facts.  Take  a bone,  fresh  from  the  butcher,  go  in  your  hen  yard,  pound 
the  bone  with  a hammer  on  a stone,  and  although  you  may  have  fed 
your  hens  on  dry  ground  bone,  and  have  filled  their  troughs  with  grain, 
each  will  take  the  risk  of  a blow  on  the  head  with  a hammer  to  secure  a 
bit  of  fresh  bone,  and  they  will  swallow  pieces  so  large  as  to  occasion 
surprise.  The  fresh  bone  serves  a special  purpose,  for  it  contains  the 
materials  for  the  white  of  the  egg,  the  yolk  and  the  shell,  all  in  a concen- 
trated form,  and  in  a partially  soluble  condition,  while  the  dry  bones  will 
remain  untouched — that  is,  as  long  as  fresh  bbne  is  supplied.  Thus  we 
have  not  only  egg  food,  but  also  grit  for  grinding  the  grain  food  in  the 
gizzard.  The  cheapness  of  bones  is  another  factor  to  be  considered — 
many  butchers  give  them 
away,  or  will  sell  them 
for  a small  sum.  But  the 
bone  cutter  is  the  agent 
that  renders  them  valu- 
able, and  converts  them 
into  the  most  desirable  of 
all  foods.  With  bone  and 
cut  clover,  but  very  little 
other  food  will  be  re- 
quired, and  hence  there 
is  rot  only  a gain  in  nu- 
tritious matter,  but  a 
saving  of  grain  also. — 

Poultry  Keeper. 

It  is  frequently 
Lime,  recommended 
that  the  hens  be 
supplied  with  oyster- 
shells,  as  a source  from 
which  to  permit  the  hens 
to  obtain  the  lime  that 
forms  the  shell  of  an  egg. 

This  claim  has  never  been 
supported  fully,  for  it  is 
well  known  that  thousands 
of  hens  are  never  given  buff  leghorn  pullet. 

anything  of  the  kind, yet  they  have  no  difficulty  in  securing  the  needed  lime. 
The  matter  depends  more  upon  the  food  than  upon  supplying  substitutes. 
Grain  is  deficient  in  lime  and  abounds  in  starch,  hence,  hens  that  are  fed 
almost  wholly  upon  grain  will  produce  eggs  with  soft  shells  at  times,  but 
if  the  hens  can  supply  themselves  with  grass,  and  have  a variety,  they 
will  secure  all  the  lime  desired  from  the  food,  and  the  lime  will  be  in  a 
soluble  condition.  If  lime  is  to  be  provided  in  any  shape,  however,  there 
is  no  better  source  than  bones,  which  are  phosphate  of  lime,  and  also 
soluble  after  being  eaten,  which  is  doubtful  in  the  case  of  oyster-shells. 
Bones  and  clover  will  provide  hens  with  all  the  lime  required,  while  bran, 
linseed-meal  and  middlings  are  also  excellent  in  that  respect.  The 
farmer  who  is  careful  to  give  his  hens  a variety  and  keeps  them  on  a 
range,  will  seldom  have  his  hens  lay  eggs  with  soft  shells.  There  is 
plenty  of  lime  in  the  food.  Oyster-shells  serve  more  as  gritty  matter 


Ot) 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER  S 


than  as  a composition  of  the  eggs,  although  to  a certain  extent  they  may 
partially  assist  in  that  respect  also,  but  if  fowls  are  properly  fed  there 
will  be  no  necessity  for  feeding  lime  in  any  form.  When  hens  lay  soft- 
shell  eggs,  or  do  not  lay  well,  it  is  not  for  want  of  lime,  but  generally  be- 
cause the  hens  sire  too  fat,  which  obstructs  the  process  of  egg  laying.  If 
it  is  desired  to  feed  lime,  the  most  convenient  form  is  in  the  shape  of 
lime  water,  which  may  be  used  for  mixing  the  soft  food.  Lime  may  be 
given,  however,  in  any  shape,  if  it  is  preferred,  to  place  it  before  the  hens. 
Old  mortar  (broken),  bones,  chalk,  ground  limestone,  ground  shells,  or 
even  plaster,  may  be  used,  but  shells  are  sufficient.  Unless  the  hens  are 
in  proper  condition  and  not  too  fat,  all  the  lime  they  may  eat  will  not 
prevent  soft-shell  eggs,  though  many  persons  suppose  when  hens  lay 
soft-shell  eggs  it  is  because  lime  is  lacking. — American  Farmer. 

Linseed  meal  is  highly  nitrogenous,  and  readily  fattens- 
Linseed  fleal.  While  it  may  be  dangerous  to  poultry  if  fed  too  frequently, 
yet  it  makes  an  excellent  food  if  properly  given.  A pound 
of  linseed  meal, 
fed  fifty  hens, 
twice  a week, will 
promote  in  egg 
production  and 
health,  but  if  it 
is  given  more 
frequently  it 
may  cause  bowel 
disease.  When 
the  fowls  are 
costive,  and  the 
hens  do  not  ap- 
pear bright  in 
plumage,  linseed 
meal  is  better 
than  any  medi- 
cine that  can  be 
given.  It  is  fed  muscovv  drake. 

mixed  with  the  soft  food  in  the  morning,  the  soft  food  Deing  scalded.  In 
every  ton  of  linseed  meal  there  are  over  one  hundred  pounds  of  nitrogen, 
equivalent  to  five  pounds  in  every  one  hundred  pounds,  while  cotton-seed 
meal  is  even  richer.  It  is  an  excellent  substitute  for  grain,  as  the  meal 
can  be  given  every  other  day,  alternating  with  bran  and  ground  oats. — 
New  Hampshire  Mirror. 


Five  mornings  in  the  week  we  feed  a mash  made  up 
A.  F.  Hunter,  of  about  a third  cooked  vegetables  washed  fine,  an  equal 
amount  of  boiling  water,  a heaping  teaspoonful  of  salt 
Hassachusetts.  to  a bucketful,  a heaping  teaspoonful  of  cavenne  pepper 
every  other  day,  alternating  with  powdered  charcoal; 
into  this  is  stirred  a mixed  meal  until  the  mash  is  as  stiff  as  a strong  arm 
can  make  it.  The  mixed  meal  consists  of  one  part  each  corn  meal,  fine 
middlings,  bran,  ground  oats  and  animal  meal.  The  foundation  of  the 
mash  is  the  cooked  vegetables,  which  may  be  refuse  potatoes,  beets, 
carrots,  turnips,  onions,  and  potato,  squash  and  apple  parings,  well 
cooked.  Feed  this  mash  in  troughs  large  enough  for  all  fowls  in  the 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


57 


pen  to  get  about  it  at  one  time.  When  cold  weather  approaches,  exer- 
cise must  be  stimulated,  and  we  cover  the  pen  floors  three  or  four  inches 
deep  with  chopped  meadow  hay  or  chipped  straw,  into  which  the  grain 
is  scattered.  Whole  wheat  is  the  best  grain  for  fowls  and  whole  barley 
is  the  next  best.  We  make  barley  the  noonday  feed  five  days  in  the 
week,  and  wheat  the  night  feed  five  or  six  days  in  the  week.  Monday  we 
feed  oats  (or  barley),  wheat,  whole  corn;  Tuesday  we  feed  mash,  barley, 
wheat;  Wednesday  we  feed  mash,  cut  bone,  wheat;  Thursday  we  feed 
oats,  barley,  wheat  (or  corn);  Friday  we  feed  mash,  barley;  Saturday  we 
feed  mash,  cut  bone,  wheat;  Sunday  we  feed  mash,  barley,  wheat. 
Ground  oyster  shells  are  always  accessible,  and  fresh  water  replenished 
three  times  a day,  (warm  in  winter)  and  the  water  pans  carefully  rinsed 
every  day  completes  the  table. 


BARRED  AND  WHITE  PLYMOUTH  ROCK  COCKS. 


If  you  want  eggs, ‘you  must  give  such  material  as 
Michael  K.  Boyer,  makes  eggs,  and  if  you  want  to  produce  stock  for 
market  you  will  have  to  adopt  an  entirely  different 
ITassachusetts.  plan.  As  I raise  both  eggs  and  chickens  for  market, 
I will  give  you  the  bill  of  fare  I adopt.  For  eggs, 
each  morning  I make  a mash  of  one-half  bran  and  the  other  half  of  equal 
parts  of  ground  corn  and  oats  and  middlings.  All  the  vegetable  and 
table  scraps  I can  gather,  I cook  and  add  to  this  ground  grain.  I scald 
the  mixture  and  work  it  into  a crumbly  mess.  Once  a week  I add  a 
quart  of  meal  scraps  to  a pail  of  the  mixture;  ground  bone  is  also  given 
once  a week  in  the  soft  feed.  I feed  the  mixture  while  hot.  When  we 
have  it  to  spare,  I boil  skim  milk,  and  scald  the  ground  grain  with  thqt. 
Milk  is  a complete  egg  food  and  it  pays  to  give  a supply  of  it  to  the 


58 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


hens.  This  mash  is  fed  the  entire  year. 
At  noon,  especially  during  the  winter,  I 
scatter  wheat  among  a lot  of  litter  in  the 
scratching  pens,  which  induces  the  fowls 
to  exercise,  which  not  only  keeps  them 
in  good  health,  but  increases  egg  pro- 
duction. At  night  I give  them  oats, also 
scattered  among  scratching  material. 
During  cold  weather  in  the  winter,  corn 
is  given  at  night.  Cut  bone,  oyster 
shells  and  scrap  grit  are  constantly  be- 
fore the  fowls.  Fresh  water  is  given 
several  times  a day.  Outside  the  runs  a 
patch  of  rye  is  sown  in  the  fall,  which 
furnishes  excellent  green  food  for  the 
hens  during  good  weather  in  the  winter, 
when  the  snow  is  off  the  ground,  and  in 
spring.  In  addition  to  this,  rye  and  cab- 
bage heads  are  hung  in  the  henhouse  to 
allow  the  fowls  to  pick  them  at  will. 
This  system  of  feeding  gives  us  a good 
egg  supply  the  entire  year,  especially  in 
light  brahma  cockerel.  winter,  when  the  price  of  eggs  is  best. 

(25  Years  Ago).  r 1 • ' 1 v 1 1 

I he  rye  feed  gives  a splendid  color  to 
the  egg  yolk,  not  only  making  a more  attractive  colored  yolk,  but  one 
of  richer  taste. 

Two  things  I study  to  do — keep  the  fowls  healthy  and 
W.  F.  Bassler,  to  mate  them  especially  for  eggs.  While  I like  to  see 
fine,  well-marked  birds,  I will  sacrifice  beauty  any  time 
New  York.  for  a good  layer;  but  as  a general  thing  I do  not  have  to 
do  so.  Early  in  the  morning  I scatter  a couple  of  hand- 
fuls of  grain  in  the  chaff,  that  the  hens  may  commence  the  day  with 
work.  An  hour  or  so  later  I give 
them  a hot  mash  consisting  of  a quan- 
tity of  cut  clover  boiled  in  milk  or 
water.  To.  this  is  added  cold,  boiled 
potatoes  chopped  up  fine,  and  ground 
grain,  consisting  of  two  parts  wheat,  one 
part  oats  and  one  part  corn.  By  putting 
the  potatoes  and  ground  grain  into  the 
kettle  of  hot  clover,  the  mixture  is  cooled 
just  right  to  feed.  The  cooked  vegetables 
are  given  twice  a week.  About  two  hours 
before  dark  they  have  all  the  grain  they 
will  eat  up  clean.  I think  very  much  of  the 
clover,  and  my  hens  have  growing  clover 
in  summer.  About  twice  a week  I feed 
ground  meat  and  bones.  For  the  grain 
food  I use  a mixture  of  one  bushel  of 
wheat,  one-half  bushel  of  oats  and  one- 

half  bushel  of  barley  oftener  than  any  light  brahma  pullet. 
other.  It’s  not  always  the  same,  varying  (25  Years  Ago), 

according  to  the  season. 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


59 


My  morning  feed  for 
Dr.  Gillup,  twenty-three  laying  hens 
and  thirty-seven  chickens 
California,  is  two  quarts  of  wheat 
bran,  in  which  I mix  two 
measures  of  seed  meal  and  a 
teaspoonful  of  salt.  Pour  in  boil- 
ing water  and  mix  until  all  is  mois- 
tened thoroughly,  but  not  sloppy — 
rather  dry  if  anything.  Now,  mind, 
this  is  the  morning  feed  for  old  and 
young,  fed  early  and  hot.  The  next 
feed  after  breakfast  is  green  barley, 
cut  up  so  all  eat  it  readily.  For  this 
purpose  I sowed  some  very  early  and 
cut  it  over,  and  it  springs  right  up 
again,  so  we  cut  the  ground  over 
three  or  four  times.  Then  we  have  a 
later  sowed  lot  to  come  on  after  the 
first  patch  gives  out.  Our  young 
chicks  are  kept  in  a yard  instead  of  a 
coop.  In  some  parts  of  each  yard  I 
leave  every  other  evening  after  the 
chicks  and  chickens  have  gone  to  bed, 
some  whole  wheat  about  six  inches 
deep,  and  keep  this  ground  quite 
moist,  so  the  wheat  will  be  quite  softened  up  before  the  old  hen  gets  to 
scratching  in  the  morning.  Don’t  bury  this  wheat  all  in  a pile,  but 
scatter  it  so  they  can  only  get  a few  kernels  at  a time.  Now,  if  you  have 
fixed  this  just  right  and  just  enough  buried  wheat,  you  need  not  feed 
them  again  for  a whole  and  sometimes  two  whole  days,  except  their 
morning  mash  and  the  cut  green  feed  two  and  three  times  per  day.  Just 
as  it  happens  I occasionally  feed  a little  cracked  wheat -and  sometimes  a 


IDEAL  LIGHT  BRAHMA  COCK. 


little  corn. 


extra  careful 


IDEAL  LIGHT  BRAHMA  PULLET. 


to  never  overfeed.  Young  chicks  just 
hatched  I feed  for  the  first  two  or  three 
days  on  dry  bread  crumbs.  My  laying 
hens  get  a feed  of  grain  at  noon  and 
another  at  night,  always  fed  where  they 
have  to  scratch  for  it — either  in  litter  of 
some  kind  or  on  a light  piece  of  ground 
kept  forked  up  loose.  I mix  cracked  corn 
and  wheat  in  about  the  proportion  of 
three  sacks  of  wheat  to  one  of  corn.  Oc- 
casionally feed  Egyptian  corn  and  occa- 
sionally cracked  barley.  Now  count  your 
hens  and  measure  out  one  heaping  tea- 
spoonful of  grain  to  each  hen  for  their 
noon  and  evening  feed.  I feed  the  even- 
ing feed  of  grain  at  4 or  4:30  o’clock,  then 
just  before  they  go  to  roost  give  a good 
feed  of  the  green  barley,  or  green  corn 
answers  the  same  purpose.  Cut  up  so 
they  can  eat  it  readily.  I cut  all  my*green 


60 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


feed  with  my  jack-knife.  It  is  very  easily  done  when  you  know  how. 

To  make  hens  lay  we  must  have  : First,  warm  and  dry 
Fannie  Field,  houses  for  them  to  roost  in;  second,  alongside  each  pen 
there  must  be  a shed  for  them  to  occupy  during  bad 
Illinois.  weather;  third,  give  corn  only  at  the  evening  meal  during 
cold  weather  to  impart  a warmth  to  the  body;  fourth, 
bury  all  grain  among  chaff,  leaves  or  other  litter  or  throw  in  scratching 
pens  to  induce  exercise;  fifth,  mashes  made  from  ground  grain,  fed 
scalded  or  dry,  to  which  is  added  two  or  three  times  a week  ground  meat 
scraps,  must  be  given  every  morning;  sixth,  there  must  be  a liberal  sup- 
ply of  green  food,  such  as  cabbage;  seventh,  fresh  water  must  be  given 
daily;  eighth,  sharp  grit  and  cracked  oyster  shells  must  be  constantly 
within  reach;  ninth,  there  must  be  perfect  cleanliness.  Hens  don’t  lay 
when  they  are  lousy.  They  can’t  lay  when  they  ‘have  not  the  proper 
material  with  which  to  make  the  eggs.  They  won’t  lay  when  cold.  A 
lazy  hen  is  a misery  to  herself.  A hen  that  is  continually  scratching  and 
keeping  busy  does  not  mind  the  cold  and  in  consequence  is  the  one 
which  lays  the  eggs.  Hens  in  crowded  quarters  breed  sickness  and  sick 
hens  are  unable  to  lay.  Fowls  must  be  in  good  condition  to  yield  a profit. 


PAIR  PEKIN  DUCKS. 

To  get  the  best  results  from  the  food,  give  the  warm 
By  the  Orange  breakfast  in  the  morning,  then  soon  afterward  scatter  a 
little  grain  in  the  litter  on  the  floor;  give  grain  at  noon 
Judd  Farmer,  and  once  between  noon  and  supper  time.  Just  before 
the  fowls  go  to  roost  give  them  a full  supper  of  grain 
consisting  of  corn  about  two-thirds  of  the  time  throughout  the  winter. 
I know  that  many  poultry  writers  object  to  the  use  of  corn,  but  all  the 
same  whole  corn  is  the  very  best  food  which  can  be  given  to  fowls  at 
night  during  cold  weather.  By  cold  weather  I mean  when  the  mercury 
is  in  the  neighborhood  of  zero.  Corn  is  a heat  producing  grain,  and 
when  fed  whole  digests  slowly,  consequently  is  just  the  thing  to  “stand 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


61 


by,”  and  keeps  the  fowls  comfortable  through  the  long,  cold  nights. 
But  don’t  feed  that  corn,  or  any  other  grain,  cold.  Warm  it  thoroughly 
and  the  hens  will  feel  much  more  comfortable  and  thankful  than  they 
would  with  their  crops  full  of  cold  grain.  Let  them  eat  all  they  want, 
for  if  they  have  had  the  scattered  grain  through  the  day,  and  green 
food  where  they  could  help  themselves,  there  will  not  be  the  slightest 
danger  of  their  eating  too  much,  even  of  corn,  for  they  will  come  to  their 
supper  with  empty  crops.  When  they  are  through  eating,  remove  the 
grain  which  remains;  for  in  the  morning  they  have  their  cooked  mash. 

A hot  morning  ration  may  be  fed 
Prof.  A.  Q.  Gilbert,  during  the  winter  composed  as  follows: 

Bran,  three  pounds,  shorts,  three  pounds, 
Ottawa  Experimental  Station,  and  ground  meal  two  pounds.  Clover 

hay  steamed  and  mixed  in  liberal  quan- 
tity, a small  quantity  of  salt  and  about  three  handfuls  of  coarse  sand  and 
fine  ground  oyster  shells  mixed.  The  whole  to  be  mixed  while  boiling. 
Boiled  potatoes  and  turnips  may  be  substituted  for  the  clover  hay,  and 
as  a variety  in  diet  is  beneficial,  at  noon  feed  oats,  and  for  the  evening 
feed  use  whole  wheat.  Vegetables,  such  as  cabbage,  carrots  and  turnips, 
should  be  in  reach  of  the  fowls  always. 

As  far  as  feeding  poultry  is  concerned  the  most 
Myron  S.  Perkins,  common  trouble  is  a lack  of  variety  in  diet.  It 
should  always  be  remembered  that  fowls  are  omnivor- 
ITassachusetts.  ous  in  their  habits;  their  natural  food  comprises  the 
whole  three  kingdoms  into  which  matter  is  divided, 
•viz.,  the  animal,  vegetable  and  min- 
eral. If  any  one  or  two  of  these  is 
supplied  and  the  third  is  lacking,  the 
ration  is  unbalanced,  and  conse- 
quently not  calculated  to  develop  a 
perfectly  healthful  organism.  When 
fowls  are  confined  in  houses  or  yards 
the  various  grains  such  as  corn, wheat 
and  oats,  form  too  large  a proportion 
of  the  bill  of  fare  in  many  cases. 

Green  vegetables  and  meat  should  be 
supplied  in  much  larger  quantities 
than  they  are  ordinarily  given. 

Have  a cabbage  or  beet  in  the  fowl 
house  at  all  times,  that  the  fowls  may 
help  themselves  as  they  wish. 

Ground  beef  scraps,  fresh  raw  meat 
and  finely  ground  butchers’  bones 
contain  much  nutriment,  and  are  ex- 
cellent to  stimulate  egg  production. 

Then  oyster  shells  must  be  given  to 
furnish  lime,  and  gravel,  pounded 
glass  and  crockery  to  aid  in  reducing 
the  food.  Furthermore,  in  feeding 
poultry  it  must  be  borne  in  mind 
that  the  feed  is  according  to  the  ob- 
ject to  be  gained.  Is  it  eggs  oi;  flesh?  dark  brahma  hen. 


62 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


Are  they  young  or  old  birds?  Different  cases  require  the  following  of 
totally  different  methods.  For  eggs  we  want  such  foods  as  bran,  shorts, 
cotton  seed,  gluten  and  linseed  meals,  peas  and  clover.  For  the  produc- 
tion of  flesh  feed  corn,  rye,  buckwheat  and  oily  foods.  There  is  no 
definite  iron-clad  rule  to  be  laid  down  upon  this  subject.  It  is  necessary 
to  determine  what  is  desired  always,  and  then  act  accordingly. 

It  is  absolutely  necessary  for  hens  to  have  meat  during 
L.  F.  Scott,  the  winter  if  we  expect  a return  in  eggs.  Scraps  of  meat 
from  the  market  are  good,  either  raw  or  boiled,  and  when 
Connecticut,  these  are  not  obtainable  take  a piece  of  salt  pork  from  the 
barrel  and  nail  it  up  on  the  side  of  the  hen  house  within 
their  reach,  and  see  how  greedily  they  will  demolish  all  but  the  skin. 
When  I have  an  old  farrow  cow  in  the  fall  that  is  not  worth  wintering 
and  is  poor,  I have  her  butchered,  cut  up  and  salted,  just  as  if  we  were 
to  eat  it;  this  we  boil  all  winter,  a little  at  a time,  and  feed  it  to  the  hogs 
and  hefis  (it  needs  no  cutting).  When  I open  the  hen-house  door  with  a 
pail  of  this  meat,  they  smell  it  and  will  begin  to  sing,  sometimes  flying 
upon  me  to  get  hold  of  the  meat.  But  this  is  only  one 'of  the  cares  for 
hens;  they  need  something  green,  such  as  cabbage,  boiled  potatoes,  new 
potatoes  and  whole  apples  to  pick.  I take  rowen  hay,  run  it  twice 
through  the  hay  cutter,  pour  boiling  water  on  it,  then  pour  out  the  water 
for  drink,  and  it  will  astonish  one  to  see  how  much  of  this  green  hay 
they  will  eat.  Then  every  year  or  two  I get  a barrel  of  sea  shells,  keep 
them  by  the  hens  all  the  time,  and  for  gravel,  I get  a flint  stone  and  burn 
it  until  it  will  crumble,  and  then  run  it  through  a bone  mill;  this 
will  make  sharp  material  to  grind  their  food.  All  these  things  are  for 
them  when  confined  by  snow  or  cold.  Then  a large  dust  bath  is  neces- 
sary, but  in  open  weather  let  them  run  out,  if  not  too  cold.  I never  allow 
their  combs  to  be  frozen.  My  hens  are  every  one  last  summer  pullets, 
and  they  have  laid  incessantly  from  October  to  the  present  time,  March 
15.  I say  nothing  about  grain  feed,  only  that  green  corn  as  soon 
as  it  can  be  shelled  will  make  pullets  lay  best. 


WHITE  WYANDOT 


Feeding  is  a subject  which  requires  constant  thought  and  care  from 
the  practical  breeder  to  secure  the  best  results.  The  conversion  of  grain 
and  other  kind  of  poultry  foods  into  eggs  and  thence  into  meat  necessi- 
tates a well  regulated  system  of  feeding.  Imprudent  use  of  the  grain 
foods  retards  the  development  of  the  properties  that  the  eggs  yield,  and 
weakens  the  natural  condition  of  the  fowl. 

While  grain  may  be  considered  the  natural  food  of  fowls,  it  has  been 
shown  that  grass  and  worms  are  just  as  essential.  A fowl  in  the  state  of 
nature  lives  under  entirely  different  conditions  from  one  in  confinement, 
and  is  therefore  dependent  upon  the  breeder  as  the  master  of  the  latter 
conditions.  In  its  limited  space  the  fowl  must  consume  that  which  is 
given  it.  The  wild  fowl  gathers  its  food, grain  by  grain,  and  its  searching, 
roving  tendency  does  much  to  induce  good  digestion;  the  bird  must  work 
for  what  it  finds,  so  that  all  its  functions  are  kept  vigorous  by  exercise. 

A fowl  in  confinement  needs  a change  of  diet  regularly  to  keep  its 
health,  and  it  is  only  when  in  a healthy  condition  that  the  egg  supply 
will  be  at  its  highest.  Many  suppose  that  hens  should  lay  merely  if  fed 
with  a single  kind  of  food,  without  considering  the  essentials  for  egg 
production.  By  a variety  of  foods  the  elements  that  are  contained  in  the 
white,  yolk  and  shell  are  produced.  These  are  nitrogen,  carbon  and 
water,  with  certain  proportions  of  mineral  matter.  Nitrogen  is  an  ele- 
mentary gas  which  forms  about  four-fifths  of  the  atmosphere,  the 
remaining  fifth  being  oxygen.  Now  in  food,  nitrogen  is  albumen, fibrine, 
flesh-forming,  as  the  white  of  an  egg.  Carbon  is  oil,  fat,  starch,  sugar, 
etc. — carbonaceous  materials.  The  starch  of  feeding  stuffs  is  known  as 
carbo-hydrate,  the  hydrate  signifying  water  in  a crvstaline  state.  During 
digestion  all  starch  matter  is  more  or  less  converted  into  sugar,  and  form 
sugar  into  other  forms,  including  fat,  which  exists  in  oil.  The  mineral 
matter  consists  of  lime,  soda,  potash,  magnesia,  sulphur,  etc.,  which  is 
found  by  reducing  the  food  to  ash,  permitting  the  nitrogen  and  carbon 
to  escape  in  a gaseous  state,  though  a portion  of  the  mineral  matter  is 
sometimes  left  in  the  shape  of  carbonates  and  phosphates. 

Phosphoric  acid  unites  with  minerals  and  alkalies.  When  united 
with  lime  we  have  phosphate  of  lime,  or  bone;  when  united  with  soda, 
we  have  phosphate  of  soda.  When  carbonic  acid  unites  with  lime  the 
result  is  carbonate  of  lime,  as  oyster  shells,  chalk,  marble,  limestone, 
eggshell,  etc. 

The  difference  between  a bone  and  an  oyster  shell  in  that  while  both 
have  lime  as  a base,  phosphoric  acid  and  carbonic  acid  form  each  a sepa- 
rate combination  under  different  conditions. 


64 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


In  the  composition  of  the 
egg,  which  is  divided  into  the 
white,  yolk  and  shell,  we  find 
that  water,  fat,  albumen, sugar 
and  mineral  matter  are  all  in 
the  white.  Let  us  take  a 
hundred  parts  and  divide 
them.  The  result  will  be  : 
Water,  about  84  per  cent;  al- 
bumen, about  12^-  per  cent; 
mineral  matter,  about  1 per 
cent;  sugar,  etc.,  about  2\  per 
cent. 

Grains  or  any  other  quan- 
tity to  the  number  of  100 
parts  contain  only  16  parts  of 
solid  matter,  but  this  would 
make  96  grains  of  solid  matter 
for  each  egg,  which  contains 
600  grains  of  white  or  75 
grains  of  albumen.  Water  to 
the  extent  of  500  grains  is  also 
contained  in  the  white: 

The  yolk  is  composed  as 
follows,  taking  100  parts  : 
Water,  about  52  per  cent;  oil 
and  tat,  about  45  per  cent;  albuminoids,  about  1 per  cent;  coloring  mat- 
ter, about  1 per  cent;  mineral  matter,  about  1 per  cent. 

The  yolk  contains  300  grains,  more  than  half  of  which  is  water; 
nearly  half  is  fat,  and  a portion  of  it  is  albuminous.  Let  us  put  the 
white  and  the  yolk  together;  we  then  have,  deducting  100  grains  for 
shell,  900  grains,  thus:  Water,  650  grains;  albuminoids,  80  grains;  oil, 
fat,  etc.,  135  grains;  mineral  matter,  9 grains;  sugar,  coloring  matter, etc., 
26  grains. 

About  fifty  grains  of  salts  of 
lime,  or  about  20  grains  of  pure  un- 
combined lime,  which  is  calcium 
oxide,  and  the  remainder  carbonic 
acid,  water  in  crystalization,  etc., 
form  the  shell.  But  some  of  the  min- 
eral matter  in  the  white  and  yolk  is 
also  lime,  or  the  chick  could  not  be 
produced  for  lack  of  bone.  It  must 
be  borne  in  mind  that  the  mineral 
matter  is  made  up  of  sulphur,  potash, 
magnesia,  soda  derived  from  salt, 
phosphate  of  lime,  etc.  One  must 
know  what  to  put  in  an  egg  before  it 
is  complete,  and  next  how  to  gel  the 
materials  for  that  purpose. 

Having  examined  the  egg  and 
found  the  ingredients,  we  should  use 
the  foods  richest  in  these.  The  first 


WHITE  LEGHORN  COCK. 


WHITE  LEGHORN  HEN. 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


65 


thing  to  be  considered  is  the  foods  which  contain  the  most  lime  for  the 
shell.  White  clover  hay  is  the  richest  in  lime,  containing  in  1,000  pounds 
about  24  pounds  of  soluble  lime.  Red  clover  hay  contains  about  28 
pounds  of  lime  to  the  1,000  pounds.  Grain  food  is  the  poorest  in  lime 
substances,  containing  only  about  one  pound  of  lime  to  the  1,000  pounds. 
This  is  clear  evidence  of  the  fact  that  hens  lay  soft  shelled  eggs  when  fed 
regularly  on  grain  diet.  Tops  of  turnips,  beets  and  carrots  contain  a 
liberal  amount  of  lime. 

Avoid  too  much  carbonaceous  matter.  The  birds  should  be  caused 
to  exercise,  as  the  carbon  is  thus  converted  into  heat  and  given  off  from 
the  body;  quick  breathing  throws  off  the  carbonic  acid  gas,  and  a portion 
of  the  carbon  is  used  to  provide  warmth  for  the  body. 

In  feeding  endeavor  to  equalize  the  food  and  provide  the  fowls  with 
foods  in  proportion  for  the  object  desired.  The  foods  that  are  intended 
for  fattening  purposes  should  never  be  given  to  laying  stock;  flesh  form- 
ing, heat  producing  foods  and  foods  rich  in  mineral  matter,  should  be 
balanced  to  produce  the  results  desired,  and  should  not  be  fed  indiscrimi- 
nately. The  table  appended  is  of  value  for  reference,  careful  study  of  it 
will  add  materially  in  feeding  for  desired  results: 


Green 

Foods. 


Grains 

and 

Seeds. 


Dry 

Grass 

Foods. 

Root 

Crops. 


,e  Table. 

• 

Flesh. 

Heat. 

Dry 

Matter. 

Mineral 

Matter. 

f Beet  leaves 

2 . 2 

5 -° 

IO.7 

2 . I 

Cabbage  

2-5 

7.8 

14.3 

1.4 

Clover,  red 

3-6 

9.0 

19.8 

1-5 

Clover,  white 

4.0 

8.9 

19 . 8 

1-5 

Green  rye 

3-3 

II  .O 

24.0 

1.8 

Green  oats 

2.4 

7.6 

18. 2 

3 • 1 

Timothy 

2.7 

I5-I 

31.0 

2 . 1 

Turnip  leaves 

2 . 1 

5-6 

11 .6 

2.3 

f Cotton  seed  meal 

41.2 

32.0 

80. 

7 • 1 

Linseed  meal 

28 . 1 

42.3 

78. 

6.4 

Beans  

25 .5 

46.5 

86. 

3-2 

Peas 

22.4 

54-5 

86. 

2.7 

Middlings 

18.0 

59-i 

87- 

2 . 6 

Bran 

r4-5 

59  • 6 

87. 

6.0 

Buckwheat 

r 1 . 2 

64  -3 

88. 

2.9 

Barley 

10 . 6 

65-7 

86. 

2 . 6 

Corn 

10.4 

72.6 

89. 

1.9 

Oats 

12.9 

59-8 

87. 

3 • 1 

Wheat 

ri-3 

69.6 

86. 

1.8 

I I . A 

67.8 

Sc 

1.8 

[ Red  clover  hay 

I I . O 

35-° 

w j • 

83.3 

i. 5 

Meadow  hay 

7-3 

45-2 

85.7 

6.0 

] Timothy 

6 . 2 

44.7 

85-7 

2 . 1 

[ Salt  marsh  hay 

6 . 1 

41 . 6 

89-3 

7.6 

f Carrots 

1 .0 

9-3 

12.9 

0.9 

| Parsnips 

1 . 6 

8.2 

11 .7 

0.7 

Potatoes 

1.8 

20.6 

24.2 

1 .0 

Turnips 

1 . 0 

5- 8 

8.9 

0 . 8 

Sweet  potatoes 

0.9 

26.3 

30-3 

1 

THE  construction  of  the  poultry 
house  be  economical;  avoid  lavish  dis- 
play and  ornamentation,  and  use 
methods  that  will  be  of  advantage  to 
the  health  and  comfort  of  the  fowls. 

The  house  should  be  plain,  substantial, 
free  from  dampness  and  draughts.  Sun- 
shine should  be  provided  for  by  windows 
in  the  southern  exposure;  light  and  sunshine  are 
tonics  to  the  fowls  and  will  prove  beneficial.  Lack 
of  sunshine  is  the  cause  of  many  diseases  to  which  poultry 
are  subject,  and  many  cases  of  colds,  catarrh,  rheumatic 
affections  and  diarrhoeas  are  traceable  to  dark  houses. 


During  warm  weather  provide  ample  shade  in  the  runs  for  shelter. 
Trees  and  bushes  are  natural  shade,  but  when  trees  are  not  accessible, 
small  sheds  may  be  attached  to  the  houses  or  large  boxes  scattered  pro- 
miscuously will  give  shade  and  shelter  from  the  storms.  Poultry  like 
fresh  air,  out-door  exercise,  and  shady  nooks  to  scratch  in;  it  is  akin  to 
their  nature  and  the  provision  of  shade  and  out-door  shelter  will  enable 
them  to  enjoy  these  things  to  their  own  satisfaction  and  benefit. 

Ventilation  is  needed.  That  is,  it  should  be  provided  in  a way  to  be 
of  service  to  the  fowls,  and  not  as  some  use  it.  Poor  ventilation,  or 
too  much  ventilation,  has  caused  many  deaths.  Avoid  the 
use  of  ventilators  which  cause  a draught  on  the  bird  while  on  the 
roost.  If  ventilation  must  be  used,  then  a pipe  at  the  end  of  the  house 
farthest  from  the  roosting  place  is  best.  This  pipe  should  be  about  12 
inches  from  the  floor  and  should  have  an  exit  in  the  roof.  Do  not  use 
overhead  ventilation  of  windows  at  the  sides  of  the  house  as  a means  for 
providing  fresh  air;  these  methods  will  cause  draughts  and  cannot  fail 
to  play  havoc  among  the  flock. 

A good  method  for  providing  ventilation,  and  it  is  perhaps  the  safest 
and  best,  is  to  build  the  house  to  accommodate  only  the  numbo^of  fowls 
to  be  kept  without  crowding.  If  the  house  is  well  lighted  it  will  need  no 
other  ventilation  than  is  naturally  provided.  Build  a house  to  suit  the 
flock,  or  keep  a flock  to  suit  the  house.  No  other  ventilation  will  then 
be  needed  other  than  the  pure  air  which  is  in  the  house. 

Build  the  house  in  a dry,  well  drained  location,  free  from  dampness. 
Have  the  floors  raised  from  the  ground  and  cover  them  with  dry  earth 
or  sand.  Keep  clean  and  have  everything  in  a neat,  trim  state.  Do  not 
be  negligent  in  the  care  of  the  house.  Be  active  and  watchful  and  atten- 
tive to  duty. 


The  house  is  large  enough  for  about  25  hens.  It  is 
A Cheap  House.  16  feet  long  and  13  feet  wide;  11  feet  high  in  front  and 
six  in  the  back.  The  roosts  are  in  the  northeast  corner, 


68 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


A CHEAP  HOUSE. 


placed  over  a platform,  which  is  six 
feet  long  and  three  feet  wide.  The 
platform  is  placed  on  2x4  poles  in 
front,  which  are  sharpened  and 
driven  into  the  ground  so  as  to  be  34 
inches  high. 

This  leaves  room  in  the  west  end 
to  set  a barrel  under  to  scrape  the 
droppings  into.  The  roosts  are  set 
about  eight  inches  from  the  edges  of 
the  platform,  and  there  are  two  run- 
ning lengthwise,  which  gives  room 
for  25  hens.  The  north  and  east  edge  of  the  platform  is  nailed  into 
cleats.  The  roosts  are  16  inches  high.  The  nests  are  built  by  laying  a 
box  eight  feet  long  on  stones  near  the  ground,  the  box  being  divided 
into  four  compartments  each  12  inches  deep.  The  box  lays  on  the  side, 
and  there  is  a narrow  board  nailed  across  the  front  near  the  ground,  and 
has  doors  of  laths  to  fill  space  above.  This  is  for  hens  with  chicks.  The 
chicks  can  run  out  into  the  south  room,  which  is  four  feet  wide  and  eight 
feet  long.  Above  this  box  (the  top  to  serve  for  bottom  of  one  row  of 
nests)  is  built  a double  row  of  nests,  six  on  each  side,  with  a sliding  par- 
tition between  each  nest.  There  is  a standard  set  up  at  centre  of  each 
end  of  box;  across  the  top  of  these  is  a piece  of  2x4  timber  nailed  the 
entire  length  of  the  box.  Above  this  to  the  floor  overhead  there  is  a 
wire  partition.  On  each  side  of  the  2x4  timber  there  is  a narrow  board 
nailed  on  to  fasten  the  hinges  of  covers. 

In  front  of  the  nest  there  is  a board  12 
inches  wide  cut  so  that  the  hens  can 
enter  the  nests.  The  covers  of  the 
nests  are  half-inch  boards,  which  are 
put  on  slanting,  resting  on  the  eds:e  of 
the  board  in  front,  so  there  is  no  chance 
for  the  hens  to  roost  on  and  foul  the 
nests. 

The  feed  box  is  six  feet  long,  nine 
inches  high  in  front,  and  fourteen  inches 
back,  with  slanting  top  like  the  nests, 
with  cover  four  inches  wide  on  hinges. 

There  are  slats  both  in  front  and  back, 
so  the  hens  can  eat  from  either  side. 

This  box  set  about  half  its  width  under 
there  is  room  for  the  hens  on  both  sides. 


ROAD  INTO  YAfiO 


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the 


16  FT  

GROUND  PLAN. 

north  side  of  the  nests, 


L 


SO 


This  house  is  designed  to  accommodate  about  thirty 
A Double  House,  fowls,  but  can  be  made  on  the  same  plan  to  any  size 
required  by  the  builder.  The  loft  is  an  addition 
which  will  meet  the  requirements  of  all  who  wish  to  keep  pigeons  to  a 
good  advantage  without  occupying  the  ground  space  of  the  fowls.  This 
addition  can  be  built  on  any  shed  or  small  lot,  and  the  lower  story  can 
be  utilized  in  many  ways  to  suit  the  builder,  if  he  does  not  intend  to  keep 
fowls.  The  plans  may  be  varied  in  many  ways,  but  for  a combined 
poultry  house  and  pigeon  loft,  every  precaution  has  been  taken  to  make  it 
complete  in  all  particulars. 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


69 


A DOUBLE  HOUSE. 


The  size  of  the  ground  plans  are 
ioxi2  feet  for  the  building,  and  the 
flight  is  5x10  feet.  This  makes  10x17 
feet  from  out  to  out;  the  height  is 
14  feet  to  the  square,  and  five  feet 
more  to  the  highest  point.  The  ceil- 
ing in  the  poultry  house  is  seven  feet 
high.  The  foundation  is  laid  upon 
cedar  posts,  four  and  a half  feet  long 
with  one  foot  above  the  surface. 
The  frame  work  is  of  4x4  stuff  en- 
tirely, the  braces  of  2x3  scantlings; 
the  joists  are  of  2x6.  The  frame 
work  also  is  of  2x3  scantlings,  with 
a base  board  12  inches  around 
the  three  sides.  The  entire  building 
is  of  stuff  in  the  rough,  with  all  the 


joints  and  cracks  covered  with  three 
inch  strips.  There  are  five  half  win-  j 
dows,  and  two  doors,  the  sash  and  v 


$ i eiiom 


LAY  IN  & ffOON. 


GROUND  PLAN  OF  POULTRY  HOUSE. 


A substantial  house 
House  for  for  laying  hens  is 
shown  in  Figure.  In 
Laying  Hens,  early  spring,  chilly 
days  and  nights  re- 
tard the  inclination  of  the  hens  to 
lay  as  steadily  as  they  will  in  warm, 
nice  quarters.  This  building  is  one 
which  should  suit  the  farmer,  and 
the  cost  is  much  less  than  a more 
elaborate  house.  This  building  is  50 
feet  long,  21  feet  wide,  10  feet  high 
in  its  lowest  point,  and  8 feet  where 
sash  is  shown.  The  pens  are  9x10 


all  doors  open  on  the  outside.  The 
shingled  roof  and  flagstaff  complete 
the  ornamentation  of  the  exterior, ex- 
cept the  flight,  which  is  covered  with 
one  inch  mesh. 


70 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


feet  with  nests  for  the  layers  on  either  side  of  the  hallway,  which  extends 
the  entire  length  of  the  building,  each  pen  being  connected  by  a door 
with  the  hall.  This  house  can  easily  accommodate  ioo  hens,  but  it 
would  be  better  to  put  in  a less  number  and  allow  them  ample  space. 
The  floor  is  raised  three  inches  from  the  ground  to  shut  out  dampness, 
and  the  dry  earth  and  coarse  sand  are  the  only  covering  it  has.  The 
building  is  provided  with  a stove  to  keep  it  free  from  dampness.  This  is 
also  used  to  heat  the  food  prepared  in  a caldron  or  boiler  before  feeding 
the  same  to  the  flock  in  the  morning.  A stove  is  a great  convenience 
where  a large  number  of  fowls  are  kept.  The  ventilators  above  the 
windows  are  opened  for  one  hour  in  the  middle  of  the  day  and  are  closed 
again  to  keep  out  the  cold.  In  the  ground  plan.  P are  the  pens;  N are 
the  nests. 


This  building  shows  a structure  somewhat  different  in 
Well  Arranged  its  arrangement  from  a great  many  buildings  for  poul- 
try. It  is  practically  three  separate  buildings  in  one. 
House.  The  first  is  entirely  for  hens;  that  is,  nothing  but  nest- 
ing places  are  in  this  part.  It  is  30  feet  long  by  10  feet 
wide,  and  seven  feet  high,  making  ample  accommodations  for  from  40  to 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


71 


60  hens.  Opening  from  the  yard  permit  them  the  freedom  of  the  yard 
when  they  desire  to  go  out  into  it.  The  second  part  of  the  structure  is 
given  entirely  to  feeding  quarters  and  roosting  places.  The  entrance 
from  the  roosting  rooms  from  the  laying  quarters  is  shown  in  Figure, 
the  ground  plan  indicated  by  the  letter  E.  This  enables  you  to  divide 
your  flock  at  night,  avoiding  too  much  crowding  on  the  roosts,  and  the 
doors  leading  to  each  roosting  section  can  be  thrown  open,  and  they  can 
either  pass  through  there  or  go  directly  from  the  laying  house  through 
the  door  at  the  right  end  of  the  laying  quarters.  The  doors  are  indicated 
by  letter  D,  the  roosts  by  R,  and  in  the  feeding  quarters  the  feed  bin  and 
work  bench  occupy  a part  of  the  room. 


HOUSE  FOR  LAYING  HENS. 


The  building  is  30  feet  long  by  18  feet  wide  by  8 feet  high.  A 
stairs  or  ladder  lead  up  to  a large  room  in  which  pigeons  may  be  kept. 
Two  windows  on  the  front  give  light  to  the  lower  floor,  and  the  mansard 
cupola  on  the  roof  afford  light  to  the  upper  room.  The  last  building 
is  arranged  for  incubators,  I 


and  the  brooders  as  well  as 
the  heater  to  cook  feed,  and 
keep  the  place  warm  in  cold 
weather.  This  part  is  convenient 
and  necessary  and  should  always 
occupy  a separate  part  of  the 
poultry  house.  This  section  is 
just  15  by  18  feet,  and  is  7 feet 
high,  with  one  window  and  two 
doors,  one  leading  to  the  feeding 
quarters,  and  the  others  to  the 
outside. 


cnmm 


ron.fl. 


Ill  Ml  1 1 N 1 i 1 1 1 1 1, 

N N 

* m- 


I I I I I I I I ITTTTI 

N 


£ £ £ £ £ 

GROUND  PLAN  OF  WELL  ARRANGED  HOUSE. 


72 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


WELL  ARRANGED  HOUSE. 


Although  there  are  many  buildings  that  can  be  made  suit- 
A Roomy  able  for  keeping  a flock  of  fowls,  yet  some  prefer  to  see  a plan 
or  two,  in  order  that  a proper  selection  as  regards  arrange- 
House.  ments  be  afforded  when  they  contemplate  building  a house 
for  their  flocks.  A house  that  is  roomy  and  comfortable  in 
winter  weather  should  be  just  as  comfortable  in  summer.  They  do  not 
require  so  much  shelter  then  as  in  winter;  very  often  they  prefer  to  roost 
outside  on  trees  and  fences  where  freedom  from  bad  odors,  often  found 
in  poultry  building,  is  avoided,  and  they  are  none  the  worse  for  it,  becom- 
ing hardier  and  more  able  to  withstand  the  winter  when  it  comes.  Man> 
farmers  through  the  northern  states  give  very  little  care  to  their  fowls 
in  the  warm  weather;  they  seem  to  do  well,  costing  comparatively  noth- 
ing to  feed  them,  all  being  profitable  to  their  owners. 


A ROOMY  HOUSE. 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


73 


The  illustration  shows  a very  cosy  laying  house  to  accommodate 
from  100  to  200  hens.  It  is  built  plainly,  consequently  cheaply,  afford- 
ing, however,  as  comfortable  quarters  as  houses  costing  far  more.  It  is 
90  feet  long,  44  feet  wide,  and  15  feet  high.  This  is  a good  size  and  suit- 
able for  a flock  of  layers,  yet  you  may  change  the  proportions  to  suit 
your  own  ideas  to  accommodate  just  the  number  of  fowls  you  desire  to 
keep  about  your  place. 

The  ground  plan  shows  the  interior  arrangements.  A hallway  sepa- 
rates the  four  large  pens,  each  of  which  is  35x20  feet.  The  letter  D in- 
dicates all  doors  in  and  about  the  building,  N the  nest  boxes,  which  will 
be  noticed  have  been  amply  supplied  in  each  pen.  The  nests  are  fastened 
in  sets  of  three  by  hooks,  and  can  be  removed  quickly  and  cleaned  with- 
out any  trouble.  R,  the  roots,  each  pen  being  well  supplied  with  low 

comfortable  roots.  D B,the  dust  box; 
F B is  the  feed  bin;  A,  a heater; 
H does  the  work  of  cooking  as  well 
as  heating.  A work  bench,  W B, 
affords  facilities  for  doing  odd  job  of 
repairing,  which  is  so  often  needed 
in  such  buildings.  This  main  room 
is,  or  should  be  connected  with  all 
poultry  houses  for  the  convenience  of 
the  person  who  looks  after  the  flock. 

This  house  is  eight  feet  high  in  front  and  six  feet 
A Good  House,  high  in  the  rear.  It  is  8x12  feet  and  the  roof  is 
covered  with  tar  paper.  The  first  floor  is  of  boards, 
covered  with  leaves  or  cut  straw.  The  nests  are  in  the  rear,  a box  being 
prepared  for  that  purpose,  so  as’  to  allow  the  hens  all  the  floor  room 
possible.  The  small  step  or  board  shown  at  the  right,  allows  the  hens 
to  ascend  to  the  second  floor  for  roosting,  a trap  door  being  placed  in  the 
second  floor  to  allow  them  access.  This  is  closed  at  night.  The  door 
for  the  upper  room,  with  steps  is  shown  at  the  left.  The  entrances  to  the 
nests  are  plainly  seen  at  the  rear  of  the  house,  to  the  left. 

The  rear  view  shows  the 
nest  boxes  and  the  entrances 
to  them.  This  arrangement 
permits  the  collection  of  eggs 
without  entering  the  house. 
On  the  upper  floor  is  shown  a 
drawer,  under  the  roosts;  the 
droppings  fall  from  the  roost 
into  this  drawer  and  are  re- 


FtG.  7. 


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GROUND  PLAN. 


A GOOD  HOUSE. 

moved  by  emptying  the 
drawer,  which  can  be  taken 
out  without  entering  the 
building. 

This  plan  necessitates 
going  into  the  upper  apart- 
ment but  very  little,  and  the 


Fig.  2. 


74 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


lower  floor  affords  ample  shelter  from  storms  and  allows  plenty  of  air 
and  light  to  enter  the  building.  The  upper  floor  is  three  feet  from  the 
ground,  and  is  simply  a roosting  place,  the  hens  occupying  the  lower 
floor  during  the  day. 


Dark  Brahma  coc»o 


LIGHT  AND  DARK  BRA'  IMA  COCK. 


THE  attention  of  the  poultry- 
man  has  for  some  time  been 
directed  to  the  methods  of  keep- 
ing, or  preserving  eggs.  By  so  doing  he  in- 
creases his  income,  and  realizes  a winter  price  for 
summer  eggs.  In  summer  when  eggs  are  cheap 
it  hardly  pays  to  market  them;  this  is  the  time  when  eggs 
should  be  packed  for  higher  prices.  As  an  adjunct  to  in- 
dividual yards  it  can  be  made  to  pay  well,  but  as  a business 
ot  its  own  it  is  rather  risky  for  many  reasons.  It  is  not  because  of  the 
impossibility  of  preserving  eggs  in  prime  condition  for  several  months, 
as  it  is  not  very  difficult  to  do.  Many  families  store  eggs  every  fall 
for  winter  use,  some  by  packing  them  in  dry  salt  or  in  ashes,  while 
others  preserve  them  in  lime  water. 

While  it  may  be  possible  for  a family  it  may  be  impossible  for  k 
merchant  who  buys  eggs  for  the  purpose  of  storing  them.  When  the 
eggs  are  stored  by  the  farmer’s  wife,  she  uses  only  those  that  are  strictly 
fresh,  discarding  any  that  are  the  least  suspicious,  but  when  eggs 
are  gathered  from  every  source,  it  is  impossible  for  the  receiver  to  deter- 
mine their  quality.  The  first  consideration  in  the  matter  of  preserving 
eggs  is  the  quality  of  them.  As  a farm  industry  it  can  be  properly  done 
under  the  best  conditions  and  opens  up  a paying  field  to  those  who  give 
it  their  attention.  The  rules  to  be  observed  for  preserving  eggs  are  : 
i.  Use  infertile  eggs;  2.  Keep  them  in  a cool  place;  3.  Turn  them  twice 
a week. 

Eggs  laid  by  hens  not  in  company  with  males  will  keep 
three  times  as  long  as  those  laid  by  hens  when  with  the  males.  Infertile 
eggs  left  in  an  incubator  at  a temperature  of  103  degrees  at 
the  end  of  three  weeks  were  almost  as  fresh  as  when  put  in,  while 
the  fertile  eggs  were  rotten  in  less  than  ten  days.  If  eggs  are  in- 
tended to  be  preserved,  the  males  should  be  removed  from  the  pens. 
Eggs  keep  best  in  a cool  place,  and  the  temperature  should  be  between 
40  and  60  degrees.  If  exposed  to  too  low  a temperature  they  will  freeze 
and  crack  open.  They  should  be  turned  over  twice  a week  to  prevent 
the  yolks  adhering  to  the  shells. 

The  following  processes  for  preserving  eggs  afford  a valuable  collec- 
tion foi  the  reader,  and  each  method  is  given,  with  the  authority  attached, 
as  a warrant  of  its  reliability  and  practical  use: 


Take  a common  starch  box  with  a sliding  lid.  Put  the 
The  Sulphur  eggs  in  the  box  and  upon  an  oyster  shell  or  other  suitable 
substance,  place  a teaspoonful  of  sulphur.  Set  fire  to  the 
Process.  sulphur,  and  when  the  fumes  begin  to  rise  briskly  shut  up 
the  lid,  make  the  box  tight,  and  do  not  disturb  it  for  half 
an  hour.  Then  take  out  the  eggs,  pack  in  oats,  and  the  job  is  done.  If 
the  oats  or  packing  material  be  subjected  to  the  same  process  it  will  be 


76 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


all  the  better.  If  a barrel  full  is  to  be  preserved,  place  the  eggs  in  a 
tight  barrel  two-thirds  full,  with  no  packing  whatever.  Fire  a pound  of 
sulphur  upoma  suitable  utensil,  on  top  of  the  eggs  in  the  vacant  space 
over  them,  shut  up  tightly,  let  stand  an  hour,  and  then  take  out  the  eggs. 
As  the  gas  is  much  heavier  than  the  air  it  will  sink  to  the  bottom,  or, 
rather,  fill  up  the  barrel  with  the  fumes.  In  another  barrel  or  box  place 
some  oats,  and  treat  in  the  same  way.  Now  pack  the  eggs  in  the  oats, 
head  up  the  barrel,  and  turn  the  barrel  every  day  to  prevent  falling  of 
the  yolks,  using  each  end  alternately,  and  they  will  keep  a year,  or,  ac- 
cording to  the  efficiency  of  the  operation,  a shorter  or  even  a longer  time. 

Take  24  gallons  of  water,  put  it  in  12  pounds  of  unslaked 
The  Havana  lime  and  four  pounds  of  salt.  Stir  it  well  several  times  a 
day,  and  then  let  it  stand  and  settle  until  perfectly  clear. 

Process.  Then  draw  off  20  gallons  of  the  clear  lime  and  salt  water. 

By  putting  a spigot  in  the  barrel  about  four  inches  from 
the  bottom  you  can  draw  off  the  clear  water  and  leave  the  sediment. 
Then  take  five  ounces  of  baking  soda, 
five  ounces  of  cream  of  tartar,  five 
ounces  of  saltpetre,  five  ounces  of 
borax  and  one  ounce  of  alum;  pul- 
verize these,  mix  and  dissolve  in  a 
gallon  of  boiling  water, which  should 
be  poured  into  the  20  gallons  of 
lime  water.  This  will  fill  a whisky 
barrel  about  half  full,  and  a barrel 
holds  about  150  dozen  eggs.  Let 
the  water  stand  about  one  inch 
above  the  eggs.  Cover  with  old 
cloth,  and  put  a bucket  of  sediment 
over  it.  Do  not  let  the  cloth  hang 
over  the  barrel.  After  being  in  the 
liquid  30  days  the  eggs  may  be 
taken  out,  packed  in  boxes  and 
shipped.  Do  not  use  the  same 
pickle  more  than  once.  You  need 
not  wait  to  get  the  barrel  full,  but 
may  place  the  eggs  in  the  pickle  at 
any  time.  As  the  water  evaporates 
add  more,  as  the  eggs  must  always 
be  covered  with  the  liquid.  It  does 
not  hurt  the  eggs  to  remain  in  the 
pickle.  It  is  claimed  that  this  pro- 
cess will  keep  them  a year. 

Having  filled 

The  Scientific  cover  the  eggs  with  cold  salicylic  water.  The  eggs 
must  be  kept  down  by  a few  small  boards  floating 
American  Process,  in  the  water,  and  the  whole  should  be  covered  with 
a cloth  to  keep  out  the  dust.  If  set  in  a cool  place 
the  eggs  so  packed  will  keep  fresh  for  months,  but  they  must  be  used  as 
soon  as  they  are  taken  from  the  brine.  To  make  the  salicylic  solution, 
dissolve  salicylic  acid,  which  costs  about  three  dollars  a pound,  in  boil- 
ing water,  about  one  teaspoonful  to  the  gallon. , It  is  not  necessary  to 
boil  all  the  water  as  the  acid  will  dissolve  in  a less  quantity,  and  the  rest 


BUFF  PLYMOUTH  ROCK  COCK, 
a keg  or  barrel  with  fresh  eggs, 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


77 


may  be  added  to  the  solution  cold.  The  solution  of  brine  should  at  no 
time  come  in  contact  with  metal.  In  a clean  airy  cellar  one  brine  is 
sufficient  for  three  months  or  more,  otherwise  it  should  be  renewed 
oftener.  For  that  purpose  the  kegs,  etc.,  should  have  a wooden  spigot 
to  draw  off  the  liquid,  and  replenish  the  vessel.  Salicylic  acid  is  perfectly 
harmless,  and  yet  is  one  of  the  best  and  certainly  the  most  pleasant  dis- 
infectants in  existence,  with  no  color  nor  taste. 


An  Illinois  cor- 
The  Boston  respondent  writes  : 

Last  summer  I was 
Globe  Process,  induced  to  try  pack- 
ing down  eggs  for 
winter  use.  I had  in  seasons  previous 
limed  them,  but  a limed  egg  is  not 
altogether  to  my  taste.  Last  sum- 
mer I took  syveet,  clean  kegs,  set  them 
in  a cool,  dry  place,  with  a barrel  of 
powdered  dry  earth  near  at  hand.  In 
the  kegs  I placed  a layer  of  this  earth, 
then  a liyer  of  eggs,  small  ends  down, 
then  another  layer  of  earth,  and  soon 
until  the  keg  was  filled.  These  eggs 
were  quite  good  six  months  after 
packing.  By  placing  the  small  end 
down  the  yolk  is  prevented  from 
dropping  down  on  the  end  and  settling  on  the  shell,  while  the  dry  fine 
earth  keeps  them  from  the  air.  I suppose  ashes,  bran  or  any  other  fine, 
dry  substance  is  as  good  as  the  baked  earth,  but, I write  only  of  what  I 
have  actually  experimented  with. 


SILVER  SPANGLED  HAMBURG  HEN. 


To  keep  eggs  the  “year  round”  take  one  pint  of  salt 
The  Poultry  and  one  quart  of  fresh  lime,  and  slake  with  hot  water. 

When  slaked  add  sufficient  water  to  make  four  gallons. 
Yard  Process.  When  well  settled  pour  off  the  liquid  gently  into  a stone 
jar.  Then  with  a dish  place  the  eggs  in  it,  tipping  the 
dish  after  it  fills  with  the  liquid,  so  that  the  eggs  will  roll  out  without 
cracking  the  shell,  for  if  the  shell  is  cracked  the  eggs  will  spoil.  Put  the 
eggs  in  whenever  you  have  them  fresh.  Keep  them  covered  and  in  a 
cool  place  and  they  will  keep  well  for  one  year. 

The  plan  of  a French  chemist  for  preserving  eggs  is 
The  French  as  follows:  While  quite  fresh  they  are  gently  struck 
against  each  other  to  see  if  they  are  “sound;”  next 
Farmer  Process,  they  are  placed  in  a kind  of  earthen  pitcher,  having  a 
very  narrow  bottom.  When  the  vessel  is  full,  a solu- 
tion of  a quarter  of  an  ounce  of  quicklime  to  one  quart  of  water  is 
poured  in.  The  lime  water  permeates  the  shell  till  it  reaches  the  first 
membrane,  rendering  the  latter  impervious.  The  pitchers  are  then 
placed  in  the  cellar,  from  which  all  light  is  excluded,  but  a uniform  tem- 
perature of  from  44  to  46  degrees  is  maintained.  In  the  course  of  a few 
days  a pellicle  forms  on  the  top  of  each  pitcher  (carbonate  of  lime)  and 
this  must  never  be  broken  till  the  moment  for  withdrawing  the  eggs. 
This  process  enables  the  eggs  to  be  kept  fresh  for  six  to  eight  months, 
and  not  more  than  five  eggs  in  a thousand  prove  objectionable. 


78 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


The  keeping  of  eggs  being  almost  wholly  a question 
Prairie  Farmer  of  temperature  and  the  exclusion  of  air  from  them,  it 
follows  that  that  which  will  do  both  in  the  cheapest  and 
Process.  most  effectual  way,  will  be  the  best.  Hence  eggs  are 
kept  in  very  great  numbers  by  cold  storage — that  is,  by 
providing  a steady  low  temperature  of  about  35  degrees.  But  this  is 
expensive.  When,  however,  the  temperature  can  be  kept  down  to  75 
degrees,  and  below,  if  eggs  are  packed  in  some  dry,  clean  subtance  which 
will  exclude  the  air,  they  may  be  kept  in  a comparatively  fresh  state  for 
months.  This  may  be  done  in  the  following  way:  Provide  clean,  dry 
packages,  not  exceeding  in  capacity  the  quarter  or  third  of  a barrel,  and 
a sufficiency  of  common,  finely  ground  land  plaster,  such  as  is  used  for 
agricultural  purposes.  Commence  by  putting  a layer  of  the  plaster  two 
inches  deep  on  the  bottom  of  the  package,  and  into  this  set  the  eggs 
small  end  down,  so  that  each  egg  will  be  separated  from  the  other. 
When  the  strata  of  eggs  is  complete  add  more  plaster,  then  another 
strata  of  eggs,  then  more  plaster  and  so  on  until  the  package  is  full.  If 
the  work  is  done  carefully,  all  the  eggs  are  sound  when  packed,  and  each 
egg  is  separated  from  the  other,  and  the  temperature  is  not  allowed  to 
get  over  75  degrees  the  result  in  every  case  will  be  satisfactory. 


YOKOHAMA  FOWLS. 


Melt  one  part  of  white  wax  to  two  parts  of  sperma- 
The  Birmingham  ceti,  boil  and  mix  thoroughly;  or  two  parts  clarified 
suet  to  one  of  wax  and  two  of  spermaceti.  Take 
Process.  newly  laid  eggs,  rub  with  antiseptic  salt  or  fine  rich 

starch.  Wrap  each  egg  in  fine  tissue  paper,  putting 
the  broad  end  down,  screw  the  paper  tightly  at  the  top,  leaving  an  inch 
to  hold  it  by.  Dip  each  egg  rapidly  into  the  fat  heated  to  100  degrees. 
Withdraw  and  leave  to  cool,  rack  broad  end  downward  in  white  sand 
or  sawdust. 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


79 


The  way  I put  up  eggs  is  this:  I take  a new  box  that 
Mrs.  Moore’s  will  hold  20  dozen  and  put  a thick  layer  of  coarse  salt  on 
the  bottom  of  the  box;  then  every  day  as  I gather  in  eggs 
Process.  fresh  from  the  nests,  I take  clean,  sweet  lard  and  grease 
each  egg  carefully  all  over,  and  then  set  it  in  the  salt  with 
the  small  end  of  the  egg  down,  until  I have  a layer  of  eggs  set  on  end, 
and  then  I take  salt  and  put  over  the  layer  of  eggs,  being  careful  to  fill 
in  between  each  layer  of  eggs  solid,  so  there  will  be  no  danger  of  them 
becoming  displaced  when  the  box  is  turned.  Keep  on  in  this  manner, 
alternate  layers  of  greased  eggs  and  salt,  until  the  box  is  filled,  taking 
care  to  put  a thick  layer  of  salt  on  top  next  to  the  cover  of  the  box,  then 
nailing  on  the  cover  tightly. 


IDEAL  PROFILE  OF  RED  PILE  GAME  COCK. 
(Standard  Profile  for  Exhibition  Ga  nes). 


This  branch  of  the  poultry  business  has  become^well  established,  not 
only  with  the  few  who  at  first  held  the  mystery,  but  it  is  universally 
recognized  as  an  important  factor  of  the  poultry  industry. 

A capon  is  neither  a hen  nor  a rooster,  and  is  nothing  more  or  less 
than  a capon.  The  capon  is  to  the  cock  what  the  steer  is  to  the  bull,  the 
barrow  to  the  boar,  the  wether  to  the  ram.  They  grow  larger  than 
cocks,  can  be  kept  at  less  cost,  and  produce  more  meat  for  the  food  con- 
sumed than  other  fowls.  Their  flesh  is  delicious,  and  they  are  considered 
a delicacy  in  the  markets,  bringing  double  the  price  the  year  around  of 
any  other  birds. 

There  are  many  advantages  attached  to  caponizing  which  commend 
themselves  to  the  poultryman.  When  poultry  is  kept  for  a profit,  and 
we  believe  all  fowls  should  be  so  kept,  it  behooves  the  keeper  to  be  alert 
to  every  advantage  which  may  increase  the  revenue  from  his  yards.  The 
farmer  sees  more  weight  in  the  steer  than  in  the  bull,  and  in  the  same 
proportion  this  applies  to  the  cock  and  the  capon. 

The  art  of  caponizing  has  in  a measure  solved  the  question  of  caring 
for  the  cockerels.  There  is  a tendency  invariably  for  the  males  to  pre- 
dominate in  every  brood  hatched,  and  the  practical  poultryman  knows 
the  trouble  and  inconvenience  of  raising  the  usual  number  of  cockerels 
hatched  each  spring  They  are  continually  chasing  about  the  yard 
fighting,  worrying  the  hens  and  pullets,  and  are  in  general  a hindrance 
to  the  business.  A cockerel  is  a ravenous  eater,  loses  flesh  almost  as 
rapidly  as  gained,  and,  in  fact,  is  a loss  to  the  yard  in  the  end. 

By  caponizing  these  ills  are  averted;  he  becomes  very  quiet  and 


docile, spending  most 
of  his  time  in  quiet 
and  contentment. 
His  entire  nature  is 
changed;  he  assumes 
the  characteristics  of 
a hen,  never  quarrel- 
ing, and  he  may  be 
confined  with  profit 


to  a small  space. 
This  change  of  na- 
ture, and  his  quiet 
disposition  causes 
him  to  increase  rap- 
idly in  weight,  and 
his  flesh  becomes 


juicy  and  tender,  ri- 
set  of  instruments.  valing  in  flavor  and 

delicacy  that  of  a spring  broiler.  Instead  of  carrying  to  the  market  a 
poor  and  fleshless  cockerel,  you  supplant  it  with  a bird  that  equals 
turkey  in  size  and  weight,  while  the  cost  of  raising  the  capon  is  even 
less. 


82 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


The  small  breeds  such  as  Leghorns,  Hamburgs, 
Breeds  for  Capons.  Bantams  and  common  fowls  should  not  be  capon- 
ized  as  the  gain  in  weight  in  these  would  barely 
pay  for  the  trouble.  Large  size  birds  with  full,  round  breasts  are  the 
class  that  make  the  best  capons.  Always  use  such  birds  as  the  Brahmas, 
Cochins,  Plymouth  Rocks,  Javas  and  Langshans.  A fine  capon  is  pro- 
duced by  a colored  Dorking  cock  and  a Brahma  or  Cochin  hen;  an 
Indian  Game  male  on  Langshan  hens,  or  an  Indian  Game  male  on  Dork- 
ing hens.  The  best  breeds  to  select  males  from  are  colored  Dorkings, 
Indian  Games,  Grey  Dorkings,  Houdans  and  Langshans.  The  hen  may 
be  from  the  Brahmas,  Cochins  or  Plymouth  Rocks.  These  give  size  and 
hardiness. 


Hatch  your  cockerels  early  in  the  spring  so  that 
Time  to  Caponize.  they  may  be  cut  before  the  hot  weather  begins;  this 
is  an  advantage,  yet  good  results  may  be  had  at  any 
time  during  the  year.  The  months  usually  taken  for  caponizing  are 
June,  July, ^August,  September  and  October;  at  these  times  the  young 
chicks  from  the  spring  hatches  have  arrived  at  the  proper  age  and  weight, 
and  this  affords  ample  time  for  marketing  during  January,  February, 
March,  April  and  May.  Cockerels  may  be  caponized  when  eight  weeks 
old;  the  sooner  the  better.  Remember  the  capon’s  comb  does  not  grow 
like  that  of  a cock,  but  shrivels  away  after  the  operation;  its  sickle 
feathers  are  not  carried  upright,  and  in  appearance  it  is  more  like  a hen. 
Cockerels  should  be  caponized  as  soon  as  their  combs  begin  to  grow,  as 
birds  with  combs  will  not  sell  so  readily  in  the  markets,  and  are  likely  to 
be  taken  for  fowls. 


Before  explaining  the  operation  it  would  be  well  to 
Instruments  study  the  instruments  now  in  use  for  that  purpose. 


Improved  capon  spreader, 
purpose  and  very  simple, 
spreader,  recommended  by 


They  are  as  follows:  No.  i. 
for  Caponizing.  the  best  ever  used  for  the 
No.  2.  Old  fashioned  capon 
some  who  know 
little  about  the 
work.  This  is 
apt  to  fly  out 
when  working. 

We  do  not  ad- 
vise its  use.  No. 

0 . NO.  i. 

3.  Spring  cup 

capon  forceps.  No.  4.  Improved  Chinese  spoon  and 
hook.  No.  5.  Steel  wire  capon  canuln.  It  is  used 
Na  2-  by  catching  the 

first  and  second  fingers  on  the  plate  b b 
and  pressing  the  thumb  on  a,  the  wire  ^ ^ 
coming  forth  in  the  loop  c ready  f<5r  re- 
ceiving or  slipping  over  the  parts,  and 
on  removing  the  thumb  it  will  return  to 
its  first  position,  holding  the  spermatic 

cord  firmly  between  the  wire  and  the 
end  of  the  canula.  No.  6.  Old  style 
Chinese  whalebone  spreader,  which 
mo.  4.  has  been  in  use  in  China  for  many 

centuries.  No.  7.  Chinese  capon  spoon  and  hook.  No.  8.  Chinese  horse- 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


83 


hair  canula.  No.  9.  Horsehair  canula,  improved.  It  is  recessed  out  at 
the  end  just  enough  to  allow  the  horsehair  to  fit  the  groove,  freely 


the  horsehair  or  wire  being  ready  to 

be  pushed  forward  after  each  opera-  NO-6- 

tion.  No.  10.  This  cut  shows  the  method  of  holding  the  bird  during 


N0-  7-  NO.  8. 

the  operation.  No.  11.  This  shows  the  arrangement  of  the  stapl 


for  holding  the  bird.  It  also  shows 
how  a good  caponizing  board  can  be 
made  by  using  improved  staple  A to 
slide  over  the  bird’s  wings.  The  bar  Na  IO‘ 

crossing  the  middle  enables  you  to  use  the  upper  part  as  a handle. 

One  point  is 
longer  than 
the  other,  to 
make  its  in- 
trod  u c t ion 

, ,1  NO.  12. 

into  the 

board  easier.  With  seven  holes  in  the  board 
it  will  take  any  size  bird.  B is  a strap  loop, 
with  a pin  across  the  top  to  prevent  the  strap 
No-  ll-  from  falling  through  the  board  when  in  use 

At  the  other  end  of  the  strap  is  a weight  C for  keeping  the  feet  down 


No.  i2.  Steel  wire  caponizing  canula. 


This  has  been  used  for  a long 


NO.  1 


NO.  16. 


84 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER'S 


time.  No.  13.  Capon  spreader.  This  also  has  been  in  use  for  quite  a 
while.  No.  14.  Capon  forceps.  In  use  for  some  years.  No.  15.  Cords 
and  hooks.  No.  16.  Capon  knife  and  forceps  combined. 

Caponizing  is  easily  learned  and  successfully  prac- 
How  to  Caponize.  ticed  by  beginners  by  following  directions,  but  more 
quickly  and  satisfactorily  by  witnessing  the  opera- 
tion. Birds  apparently  suffer  but  little  pain  from  the  operation,  and  the 
per  cent  of  loss  is  quite  small.  The  only  birds  that  die  under  the  opera- 
lion,  as  a rule,  are  those  having  developed  combs.  The  old  Chinese 
tools,  when  their  use  is  understood,  are  very  satisfactory.  To  avoid  mak- 
ing slips  in  caponizing  requires  care  and  experience  on  the  part  of  the 
operator.  He  must  have  a good  chance  to  work,  with  plenty  of  sunlight 
and  the  chickens  well  emptied  of  food.  Chicks  that  weigh  one  or  two 
pounds  are  the  best.  Keep  them  from  food  30  hours  before  you  begin. 
Never  try  to  caponize  a chick  with  full  intestines,  as  it  takes  more  time, 
and  the  chances  of  success  are  not  nearly  so  good. 

Supposing  now  that  you  have  your  chicks  well  emptied  of  food  and 
plenty  of  sunlight;  next  take  a flour  barrel  with  the  head  uppermost, 

then  take  two  strings  with  a slip 
noose  at  each  end,  fasten  a half 
brick  to  the  other  end  of  each 
string,  tie  one  end  around  the 
chicken’s  legs  and  drop  the  brick 
over  the  other  side  of  the  barrel. 
Tie  the  other  string  around  the 
wings  close  to  the  back  of  the  bird, 
then  drop  the  other  brick  over  the 
other  side  of  the  barrel,  as  shown  in 
Fig.  17. 

You  now  have  your  chicken  on  its  left  side  ready  for  the  operation. 
Pick  all  the  feathers  from  over  the  last  rib  to  the  hip  bone,  then  wet  the 
feathers  around  the  spot  with  ice 
water.  This  chills  the  part,  thus  pre- 
venting undue  pain,  and  keeps  all 
stray  feathers  out  of  the  way.  Now 
put  your  forefinger  on  the  hip  bone 
across  the  flank  to  the  first  rib,  then 
introduce  the  knife  between  the  two 
first  ribs,  as  shown  in  Fig.  18,  and  cut 
down  and  forward  to  the  end  of  the 


FIG.  18. 

ribs,  then  turn  the  knife  and  cut  be- 
tween these  ribs  to  near  the  backbone, 
put  in  the  spreaders  and  open  the  ribs. 
See  Fig.  19.  Take  the  spreader  be- 
tween the  thumb  and  first  finger, 
press  it  until  the  two  ends  come  to- 
gether. Then  insert  the  hooked  ends 
in  the  incision,  making  sure  to  have 
the  hooks  between  the  ribs.  Hold  the 
spreader  in  position  with  the  left  hand. 


FIG.  19. 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


85 


Take  up  the  knife  again.  See  Fig.  20.  Increase  the  opening  by  cutting 
toward  the  backbone,  and  forward  on  the  line  between  the  ribs,  until  1 
is  large  enough  to  admit  the  free 
passage  of  the  scoop  twister.  Care 
must  be  taken  not  to  go  too  near 
the  backbone,  and  always  cut  on  a 
line  with  the  veins  instead  of  cross- 
ing them.  See  Fig  21.  With  the 
hoop  end  tear  open  the  thin  skin 
until  you  have  the  right  testicle  well 
in  view,  and  plenty  large  enough  to 
press  the  scoop  twister  through. 

This  hoop  must  be  used  with  care, 
or  you  may  puncture  an  artery  or  fig.  20. 

the  bowels.  Take  the  probe  in  your  left  hand.  With  the  ring  handle 
push  the  bowels  aside,  and  just  below  you  will  see  the  left  testicle.  In- 
troduce the  scoop  twister  with  the 
right  hand.  See  Fig.  22.  Catch  the 
lower  or  left  testicle  endways  in  the 
scoop.  Then  begin  to  twist  the 
testicle  off.  Now  remove  the  right 
or  upper  testicle  the  same  as  the 
left.  The  left  testicle  should  always 
be  taken  out  first  as  it  is  the  hardest 
to  remove.  If  the  bird  be  all  right 
after  the  operation  it  will  generally 
FIG>  ai*  have  a passage. 

There  is  no  difference  in  the  food  given  them  and  other  fowls  after 
the  first  few  days.  They  are,  of  course,  without  food  from  24  to  26  hours, 
before  being  operated  uj^bn,  and  are  quite  hungry.  They  should,  how- 
ever, be  fed  very 
sparingly  for  the 
first  day  or  two, 
on  cornmeal  with 
a little  salt  in  it. 

After  that  they 
can  be  given  more. 

After  the  first  week 
give  them  plenty 
of  food  ; you  will 

find  them  very  fig.  22. 

Fig.  23  shows  a capon  dressed  for  the  market, 
that  the  spurs  are  not  developed  as  in  the  case  of  the 
Fig.  24.  The  comb  and  wattles  are  also  undeveloped, 
is  very  brilliant.  It  will  also  be  noticed  that  the  head  of  the  capon  does 
not  look  like  the  head  of  either  a hen  or  a rooster.  The  cockerel  shown 
in  Fig.  24  is  the  same  age  as  the  capon.  A glance  at  the  two  illustra- 
tions will  show  the  difference  between  the  two  birds,  and  the  advantages 
of  caponizing. 

The  capon  should  be  allowed  to  grow  until  at  least 
Dressing  Capons  one  year  old,  as  by  that  time  it  will  have  attained  an 
imposing  size,  and  becomes  a beautiful  bird.  Some 
for  ITarket.  keep  them  even  longer  than  a year.  There  is  a vast 
difference  between  the  flesh  of  the  capon  and  other 


ravenous  for  a 
month  or  two, 
then  they  gradu- 
ally ease  up  and 
eat  much  less. 
When  they  are 
confined  give 
bone-meal,  broken 
shell,  etc.  Give 
plenty  of  fresh 
water. 

It  will  be  noticed 
cockerel  shown  in 
while  the  plumage 


86 


fHE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


fowls  for  table  purposes.  When  the  capons  are  ready  for  market  select 
such  as  you  propose  killing  and  confine  them.  Keep  them  without  food 
or  water  for  24  hours  that  their  crops  may  be  entirely  empty.  Prepare 
the  place  for  killing  and  dressing.  Drive  two  heavy  nails  about  one 
foot  apart  in  the  beam  or  pole  overhead.  Make  two  nooses  of  strong 
twine,  each  noose  long  enough  to  hold  one  of  the  legs  of  the  bird.  The 
capon  should  hang  low  enough  to  be  convenient  for  picking. 

Next  procure  a table  on  which  to  dress  the  fowl.  Make  a frame  on 
the  same  principle  as  a box  without  ends.  In  this  lay  the  capon  and 
remove  the  intestines. 

When  everything  is  in  readiness  take  the  bird  and  suspend  him  by 
the  legs.  Catch  hold  of  its  head  and  with  your  killing  knife  cut  the  vein 
at  the  back  of  the  throat  through 
the  mouth.  Never  do  this  from  the 
outside.  As  soon  as  the  vein  is  cut, 
run  the  point  of  the  knife  through 
the  roof  of  the  mouth  clear  into  the 
brain.  Begin  plucking  at  once. 

In  dressing,  the  feathers  are  left 
on  the  wings  to  the  second  joint,  the 
head  and  hackle  feathers  and  also 
those  on  the  legs  half  way  up  to  the 
drumsticks,  all  the  tail  feathers  in- 
cluding those  a little  way  up  the 
back  and  the  long  feathers  close  to 
the  hips  are  allowed  to  remain. 

These  feathers  add  greatly  to  the 
appearance  of  the  bird  when  dressed 
and  also  mark  him  from  other 
classes.  The  head  should  never  be 
taken  off.  The  capon  can  readily  be  distinguished  from  any  other  fowl, 
as  its  comb  and  wattles  cease  to  grow  immediately  after  caponizing. 
Do  not  tear  in  plucking. 

Now  place  the  bird  in  the  frame.  Cut  carefully  around  the  vent 
and  pull  out  the  intestines.  These  will  be  found  covered  with  fat  which 
as  they  are  removed  should  be  pushed  back.  When  the  end  of  the  intes 
tines  is  reached,  run  your  finger  up  in  the  bird  and  break  it  off,  leaving 
everything  else  in.  Let  the  birds  hang  in  a clean,  cool  place  until 
thoroughly  cooled. 

For  packing  use  new  boxes  of  any  size  required,  lined  with  white 
paper.  Pack  the  birds,  and  they  are  ready  for  market. 

One  other  advantage  the  capon  has  over  cockerels  is  that 
Capons  as  it  can  be  used  for  raising  chicks,  while  the  hens  go  back  to 
laying.  With  a little  training  the  capon  makes  an  excellent 
Mothers,  mother,  taking  the  best  possible  care  of  a brood  of  25  or  30 
chicks.  They  will  care  for  young  chicks  all  season  and  yet 
get  fat  themselves.  Their  large  size  enables  them  to  care  for  twice  the 
number  that  a hen  would,  besides  he  can  scratch  and  protect  them  better. 
When  a capon  is  nine  or  ten  months  old  he  is  ready  to  assume  maternal 
duties.  If  you  have  chicks  ready  catch  the  capon  and  pluck  a few 
feathers  from  his  breast,  and  at  the  same  time  switch  him  lightly  with  a 
cedar  twig  or  anything  that  stings  him  a little.  This  will  cause  his 
breast  to  itch.  Place  him  in  a dark  box,  about  two  feet  square  and  low 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


b7 


enough  to  prevent  him  from  standing.  Then  put  two  or  three  chicks  # 
with  him.  These  he  will  probably  kill;  then  he  should  be  taken  out  and 
switched  again  on  his  breast,  after  which  he  may  be  placed  back  in  the 
box,  and  more  chicks  given  him.  This  time  he  will  probably  be  glad  to 
have  them  with  him,  as  his  breast  will  itch  so  he  will  be  glad  to  have 
them  huddle  under  him;  he  will  cluck  to  them  eagerly  and  treat  them  as 
kindly  as  an  old  hen. 

Keep  him  under  the  box  24  hours,  with  the  chicks,  giving  them  a 
few  bread  crumbs  and  a little  water.  Have  just  light  enough  for  him  to 
see  the  food  and  water,  and  be  sure  that  he  is  far  enough  from  the  old 
hen  to  prevent  the  chicks  hearing  her  call.  The  next  day  he  may  be  put 
in  an  open  coop  and  as  many  chicks  given  him  as  is  desirable.  They 
should  be  kept  here  for  several  days  and  then  may  be  allowed  to  roam 
at  will. 

Other  chicks  may  be  given  him  from  time  to  time,  but  always  at 
night,  at  the  same  time  taking  the  chicks  that  are  large  enough  from 
him.  In  this  way  one  capon  will  bring  up  a great  many  chickens  in  a 
season,  and  the  hen’s  time  is  not  lost. 


HACKLE  ofCOCK.  SADDLE ofC0CK, 


FEATHERS  OF  BARRED  PLYMOUTH  ROCK 


e 


THE  MUTE  OK  WHITE  SWAN. 


The  greatest  drawback  to  poultry  raising  comes  from  diseases  which 
affect  the  flocks.  When  fowls,  are  in  perfect  health  and  yielding  a 
good  supply  of  eggs,  poultry  keeping  is  a pleasure  to  the  keeper  ; and 
yet,  when  many  little  ailments,  so  common  with  fowls,  arise,  there  is  a 
lavish  disgust  from  all,  and  the  industry  is  condemned.  While  it  is 
proper  to  treat  the  sick  birds,  how  much  better  is  it  to  study  the  ways  of 
preventing  disease  in  the  flocks.  Almost  all  diseases  arise  from 
neglect  and  mismanagement  by  the  keeper,  who  overlooks  the  details 
and  establishes  irregularities  which  weaken  the  hardiest  constitutions 
and  invite  disease  among  the  flocks.  Fowls  are,  as  a rule,  free  from  dis- 
ease, and  it  seldom  appears  without  a discernible  cause.  Fully  two- 
thirds  of  the  sickness  can  be  attributed  to  filthy  houses,  impure  water  and 
improper  feeding.  To  these  may  be  traced  many  diseases  that  should 
never  appear  in  a poultryman’s  yard  who  professes  to  care  for  his 
feathered  friends  or  has  hopes  of  realizing  an  income  through  this 
source. 

The  housing  space  should  be  in  proportion  to  the  number  of 
birds  kept,  and  over-crowding  should  never  be  tolerated  under  any  cir- 
cumstances. Closely  confining  a number  of  fowls  in  a small  space  with 
no  ventilation,  and  compelling  them  to  breath  over  and  over  again  the 
foul  air  which  is  always  generated  in  occupied  quarters,  encourages  the 
development  of  disease  germs.  Cleanliness  about  the  coops  and  houses 
is  necessary  to  avoid  disease.  The  accummulation  of  droppings,  vermin, 
lice,  red  mites,  etc.,  which  are  found  in  badly  kept  coops  or  houses,  are 
the  generators  of  disease.  The  droppings  should  be  removed,  and  dry 
earth  spread  on  the  floor  and  under  the  roosts.  Coal  ashes  are 
excellent  for  this  purpose,  and  when  mixed  with  the  droppings, 
become  valuable  as  a fertilizer.  The  entire  interior  of  house  should 
be  whitewashed  and  kept  thoroughly  cleaned.  Carbolic  acid  is  the  best 
disinfectant  for  the  poultry  house;  while  it  may  not  have  a pleasant  odor,, 
it  is  the  most  healthy  odor  that  can  be  had  in  the  building.  In  the  white- 
wash it  would  be  well  to  use  about  a fluid  ounce  of  carbolic  acid  to- 
a bucketful  of  the  wash. 

Pure,  fresh  water  should  always  be  at  hand  for  the  fowls  to  drink.. 
In  the  stagnant  ditch,  the  sink  spout,  and  the  leaching  from  the  barn- 
yard may  be  found  many  germs  of  disease  dangerous  to  the  fowls 
There  is  not  a single  person  who  for  a moment  would  think  of  giving; 


90 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


such  drink  to  other  stock  on  the  farm,  yet  they  do  not  hesitate  to  allow 
the  fowls  to  drink  freely  of  the  same.  If  other  animals  need  pure 
water  to  keep  in  health,  do  not  fowls  need  the  same?  This  feeding  of 
poison  to  the  fowls  is  to  be  avoided  by  providing  pure  water  for  them 
regularly  in  clean  drinking  vessels.  Another  cause  of  disease  may  be 
found  in  the  improper  use  of  various  foods.  A regard  for  the  digestive 
organs  and  the  foods  to  be  used  in  different  seasons  and  conditions  is 
an  important  factor.  Imprudent  feeding,  and  the  use  of  the  wrong 
kinds  of  foods,  is  sure  to  weaken  the  constitutions  of  the  birds  and 
establish  the  foundation  for  disease. 

When  you  think  a fowl  diseased,  remove  it  at  once  from  the  flock 
and  place  it  in  a clean,  warm  place,  free  from  the  molestation  of  the 
remainder  of  the  flock.  If  it  die  from  disease,  it  is  best  to  burn  the  car- 
cass and  prevent  contagion. 

Symptoms.  In  apoplexy  the  fowl  appears  to  be  dizzy;  it 
Apoplexy,  staggers  and  falls  down  without  any  power  of  motion.  The 
disease  may  occur  to  fowls  apparently  in  perfect  health;  the 
symptoms  are  occassioned  by  the  rupture  of  a blood  vessel  in  the  skull, 
and  the  influx  of  blood  into  the  brain  may  be  so  strong  that  the  fow  1 

dies.  The  pressure  of  the  blood 
upon  the  brain  produces  the  evil. 
The  cause  is  overfeeding  with  un- 
natural and  over  stimulating  food, 
such  as  Indian  corn  hemp,  and  pea 
and  bean  meals  in  too  large  pro- 
portions. The  disease  is  common 
with  laying  hens — which  are  some- 
times found  dead  on  their  nests — 
when  the  blood  vessel  may  be  weak 
and  straining  causes  the  attack. 

Treatment.  Little  can  be  done 
toward  the  cure  of  this  disease, 
while  much  can  be  done  to  prevent 
it.  Feed  judiciously.  Hold  the 
head  of  affected  fowl  under  a stream 
of  cold  water,  which  will  drive  the 
blood  from  the  brain.  If  this  does 
not  have  an  immediate  effect,  the 
bird  must  be  bled.  Cut  into  the 
large  vein  under  the  wing;  the  incision  should  be  made  longitudinal,  not 
across;  let  the  blood  flow  freely..  If  the  bird  shows  signs  of  returning 
life,  stop  the  bleeding  with  alum,  or  bv  pressing  on  the  wound  with  the 
fingers.  Keep  the  bird  on  a light  diet  if  it  recovers. 

Symptoms , This  disease  is  most  common  with  the  Spanish 
Black  Rot.  fowls,  and  usually  commences  with  the  blackening  of  the 
comb,  followed  by  swelling  of  the  legs  and  feet  and 

emaciation. 

Treatment.  Treatment  is  only  efficacious  in  the  earlier  stages,  and 
consists  of  a dose  of  calomel  or  castor  oil,  followed  by  some  simple  tonic, 
with  warm  and  nourishing  diet. 

Br  nchitis  Symptoms.  The  disease  is  distinguished  by  frequent  cough- 
ing and  an  aggravated  catarrh. 


WHITE  FACED  BLACK  SPANISH  HEN. 


POULTRY  BOOK 


91 


Treatment.  Remove  the  fowl  to  a dry  and  warm  place,  and  give 
sweetened  water  slightly  acidulated  with  nitric  acid.  A stimulant  of  a 
little  cayenne  or  ginger  may  be  beneficial  to  the  biid. 

Symptoms.  This  term  is  applied  to  the  corn  or  abcess 
Burmblefoot.  which  follows  from  a bruise  of  the  skin.  It  may  be  caused 
by  too  narrow  perches,  or  by  walking  upon  sharp  gravel, 
which  bruises  or  irritates  the  skin,  or  jumping  from  high  roosts. 

Treatment.  In  cases  where  the  tumor  is  soft  and  full  of  pus,  or  in 
the  form  of  an  abcess,  a free  puncture  may  be  made,  the  matter 
pressed  out  and  the  part  washed  with  warm  water.  In  other  cases 
where  the  tumor  appears  hard,  an  incision  should  be  made  in  the  form  of 
a cross.  Until  the  bird  is  cured  the  perch  should  not  be  over  six  inches 
from  the  ground,  and  the  floor  where  the  bird  is  confined  should  be  well 
covered  with  chaff  or  chopped  straw  so  as  to  relieve  the  pressure  on  the 
bird’s  foot  as  much*as  possible.  It  would  be  better  if  the  bird  was  com- 
pelled to  set  upon  the  straw  with  no  roost  at  all. 

Symptoms.  This  has  frequently  been  alluded  to  as  ulcera- 
Canker.  tion;  it  usually  occurs  about  the  head,  commencing  with  a 
watery  discharge  from  the  eyes,  as  with  roup,  which  by  degrees 
becomes  firmer  in  character,  and  offensive  in  odor.  The  disease 
frequently  extends  to  the  throat, 
covering  the  back  of  the  tongue  with 
an  ulcerous  formation,  sometimes 
entirely  filling  the  larynx  with  the 
diseased  secretion,  and  killing  the 
bird  by  suffocation. 

Treatment.  Wash  with  a solu- 
tion of  four  parts  of  water  to  one 
part  of  chlornated  soda  or  fluid  car- 
bolate,  and  “swabbing”  the  throat 
and  tongue  if  affected  with  a solu- 
tion of  this  strength.  Give  this  treat- 
ment three  times  a day,  and  mix  a 
teaspoonful  of  powdered  sulphur 
with  the  food. 

Symptoms.  Most  fowls 
Catarrh,  suffer  from  and  all  are  sub- 
ject to  a common  cold,  rouen  drake. 

which  is  shown  by  the  slight  discharge  from  the  eyes  and  nostrils.  It  is 
not  dangerous,  but  if  neglected  may  result  in  roup. 

Treatment.  Place  the  fowl  in  a warm,  dry  place,  and  give  three 
drops  of  No.  i aconite  in  a half  pint  of  drink.  Feed  soft  food  only, 
mixed  with  warm  water,  and  seasoned  with  No.  i mixture,  under  “Feed- 
ing of  Condiments.”  In  case  the  fowl  does  not  improve  in  a few  days, 
treat  as  for  roup. 

Sympto?ns.  The  first  symptoms  of  cholera  is  in  the  yellow  col- 
Cholera.  oration  of  the  part  of  the  excrement  which  is  excreted  by  the 
kidneys,  and  which  is  normally  of  a pure  white.  This  yellow 
color  appears  while  the  excrement  is  yet  solid  ; the  bird  presents  a 
perfectly  healthy  appearance;  the  appetite  is  good,  and  before 
there  is  any  rise  in  the  temperature.  This  excrement  consists 


92 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


largely  of  urates  suspended  in  a thin,  transparent  mucus,  having  a 
deep  yellow  coloration  which  may,  in  the  later  stages  of  the  disease, 
change  to  a greenish,  or  even  deep  green  color.  With  the  beginning  of 
the  disease  the  temperature  of  the  bird  rises,  reaching  109  to  no  de- 
grees, or  from  two  to  four  degrees  above  the  normal;  the  comb  loses  its 
brightness ; the  appetite  is  lessened  ; the  wings  droop  and  the  bird 
becomes  inactive.  In  the  last  stages  the  fowl  loses  in  weight,  is  very 
weak,  and  walks  with  the  greatest  difficulty.  Death  frequently  occurs 
without  a struggle,  but  in  the  majority  of  cases  there  are  convulsions  and 
cries.  Sometimes  the  bird  dies  within  24  hours  after  the  first  colora- 
tion. In  most  cases  the  bird  is  thirsty  throughout  the  period  of  disease. 
The  causes  may  be  enumerated  at  great  length,  but  only  the  more  im- 
portant are  given  ; unwholesome  food,  impure  and  stagnant  water, 
exposure  in  hot  weather. 

Treatment.  Separate  the  affected  fowls  from  the  flock  at  the  first 
symptoms  of  the  disease.  It  is  the  most  contagious  as  well  as 

most  destructive  disease  of 
fowls.  A regular  supply  of 
fresh  meat  is  a preventative 
of  the  disease.  To  cure  give 
the  affected  bird  one  pill 
every  four  or  five  hours  of  blue 
mass,  60  grains;  pulverized 
camphor,  25  grains;  cayenne 
pepper,  30  grains;  pulverized 
rhubarb,  48  grains;  lauda- 
num, 60  grains.  Mix  and 
divid,e  into  20  pills.  After 
the  pills  have  had  time  to  act 
give  half  a teaspoonful  of 
castor  oil  and  ten  drops  of 
laudanum  to  each  bird.  Give 
as  a drink  scalded  sour  milk 
with  a gill  of  Douglass  mix- 
ture (see  “Feeding  Condi- 
ments) for  every  24  fowls. 
Another  recipe  is  as  follows: 
Powdered  garlic,  one  ounce; 
aromatic  tincture  of  rhubarb, 
one-half  ounce;  tincture  of 
capsicum,  two  drachms;  tinc- 
tureof  camphor, two  drachms; 
oil  of  peppermint,  three 
drachms;  tincture  of  opium, 
one  drachm.  Mix  and  shake 
well  until  the  powdered  gar- 
Ornitho  lie  is  thoroughly  suspended. 
Dose,  six  to  eight  drops  in  a 
teaspoonful  of  water  three  times  each  da>.  A good  recipe  for  mixing 
with  the  soft  food  may  be  found  in  the  following:  Cayenne  pepper,  one- 
half  ounce;  alum,  one-half  ounce;  resin,  one-half  ounce;  sulphur,  one- 
half  ounce.  Give  one  teaspoonful  of  this  mixture  to  three  pints  of 
scalded  meal  daily.  Or,  two  tablespoonfuls  of  Epsom  salts,  four  table- 
spoonfuls lime  and  ten  drops  of  tincture  of  iron  in  a gallon  of  meal. 


LOUSE  OF  THE  GOOSE. 
A.  Trinton  lituratum.  B.  Docoporus 
bius  cygni.  D.  Goniodes  stylifer. 


C. 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


93 


Symptoms.  The  causes  are  confinement  in  cold,  dark 
Consumption,  and  unhealthy  places.  The  disease  is  strongly  marked 
in  a chronic  cough  with  evident  wasting  and  loss  of 
strength,  and  an  expectoration  of  matter.  Cure  is  hopeless  when  the 
disease  has  developed  to  any  extent. 

Treatment.  Consumption  may  be  prevented  by  wholesome,  abundant 
diet  and  good  housing;  in  its  advanced  stages  it  is  incurable.  When  the 
disease  is  suspected,  cod  liver  oil  may  be  given  with  meal.  The  disease 
is  hereditary,  and  the  bird  should  not  be  used  for  breeding  purposes. 


LOUSE  OF  THE  DUCK. 

A.  Llpeurus  squalidus.  B.  Trinoton 
.hiridum. 


LOUSE  OF  THE  PIGEON. 

A.  Goniodes  damicorius.  B.  Lipeurus 
baculus.  C.  Goniocotes  compar. 

Symptoms.  These  generally 
come  from  exposure  to  cold  and 
wet,  running  in  wet  grass,  wet 
roosting  places,  etc.  The  symp- 
toms are  leg  weakness,  stiff 
joints  or  contraction  of  the  toes.  The  malady 
is  hereditary  and  is  most  frequent  among  early 
chicks. 

Treatment.  Place  the  affected  birds  in  dry 
quarters,  and  give  stimulating  food;  a little 
cooked  meat  every  day.  Rub  the  legs  well  with 
hot  mustard  water,  and  wipe  dry.  A half  grain 
of  opium  for  a chick  over  four  months  old,  and 
a quarter  of  a grain  for  a chick  under  that  age 
given  night  and  morning  will  result  in  much  good. 


Cramp— = 
Rheumatism. 


LOUSE  OF  THE  TURKEY. 

Lipeurus  pdlytrapeziua 


94 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


Symptoms.  This  is  a form  of 
Crop=Bound.  indigestion.  The  crop  becomes 
extended  with  hard  grain,  pieces 
of  bone  and  undigested  food.  It  becomes 
swollen  by  the  moist  secretions  intended  to 
digest  the  food,  and  the  outlet  into  the  stom- 
ach is  closed  by  the  pressure. 

Treatment.  Warm  water  should  be  poured 
down  the  the  throat  of  the  fowl,  and  the  crop 
should  be  gently  kneaded  with  the  hands  for 
an  hour  or  so.  If  this  fails  make  a cut  in  the 
crop  about  an  inch  long,  at  the  top,  and  re- 
move the  contents  with  the  handle  of  a spoon. 
Then  pass  a greased  finger,  after  having 
pared  the  nail  blunt,  into  the  crop  and  find  if 
it  is  clear.  Sew  the  opening  of  the  crop  with 
white  silk  or  horse  hair.  Then  stitch  the 
outer  skin  in  the  same  manner;  taking  care 
that  the  stitching  be  only  through  one  skin  at 
a time.  Feed  on  soft  cooked  food  for  a week 
and  give  a limited  supply  of  water. 

Sympto?ns.  A sudden  change  of 
Diarrhoea-  diet ; to  much  green  food  ; or  a 
sudden  change  of  weather  may 
Dysentery,  cause  this  disease. 


TreattJient.  If  the  looseness  be 
observed  early  it  can 
be  checked  at  once  by 
feeding  boiled  rice  mixed 
with  chalk  powder.  If 
this  proves  ineffectual, 
give  three  times  a day 
a pill  of  barley  meal 

with  ci y Hrnn?  nf  ra-i  b-  Membrane  of  the  mouth  at  the 
wun  SIX  drops  OI  cam-  side  of  the  tongue.  Cm  Muscles  of 

phorated  spirit.  Give  a the  tongue  {ossyotdes)  and  lower  jaw. 
r 1 d.  A thin  salivarv  gland,  entering 

the  mouth  by  several  small  orifices. 
e.  A small  salivary  gland,  whose 


PRINCIPAL  VICERA  OF  YOUNG  COCK. 
References. — a.  The  under  beak. 

mouth 


little  iron  in  the  drink- 
ing water. 


Dysentary 
diarrhoea  in 


really 

severe 


CANAL  OR  OVIDUCT. 


duct  passes  through  the  membrane 
of  the  mouth  at  the  side  of  the  tongue 
— the  right  one  is  turned  outwards 
to  show  these  ducts,  f A small 
cartilage  belonging  to  tne  os  hyoides. 
g.  The  fauces,  h.  The  oesophagus, 
above  the  crop,  i . The  crop  laid 
open.  k.  The  upper  orifice  into  the 
crop.  1.  The  lower  orifice,  m.  The 
lower  oesophagus,  n.  The  gizzard. 
o.  First  tu^n  of  the  duodenum,  p. 
Second  turn  of  ditto,  q.  'I  he  other 
intestines,  r.  The  basis  of  the  liver, 
the  body  of  it  being  cut  out  to  show 
the  six  orifices  of  the  vena  cara  hep- 
tica  and  vena  portarum.  s.  The  gall 
bladder,  t.  The  spleen,  u.  '1  he 
two  testicles,  v.  Attachment  of  fhe 
few  drops  pericardium,  within  which  is  seen 
f . , T;r  ^ the  heart,  exposing  the  mouths  of 

OI  laudanum.  K.eep  the  vessels  coming  in  and  going  out. 

w.  The  nenve  cavoe  supen'oves.  x. 
The  two  arotids  and  sub-clavians. 
at  rest.  y-  The  trachea,  z.  Suspensory  mus- 

cles of  the  trachea. 


form,  and  is  evidenced 
by  the  evacuations  be- 
ing mingled  with  blood. 
When  the  disease  has 
reached  this  stage  it 
can  rarely  be  cured. 
Give  a dose  of  castor 
oil,  and  every  four  or 
five  hours  a 
of  laudanur 
the  fowls  confined  and 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


95 


worm,  natural 
A. — The  worm 


Symptoms.  This  is  caused  by  the  egg  being  too  large  and 
Egg  Bound,  is  especially  common  with  Polish  fowls.  Eggs  have 
been  known  to  accumulate  and  form  a large  tumor.  The 
hen  comes  off  the  nest  without  laying  and  walks  about  the  yard  as  if  dis- 
tressed, hanging  down  her  wings  ; sometimes  she  remains  on  the  nest. 

Treatment.  Give  a tablespoonful  of 
castor  oil.  If  this  is  successsul  wash  the 
vent  with  warm  water,  and  then  pass  in 
an  oiled  feather.  An  injection  of  an 
ounce  of  sweet  oil  may  prove  a better 
remedy  in  stubborn  cases. 

This  is  an  aggravating 
Egg  Eating,  vice  and  should  be  reme- 
died as  rapidly  as  possible. 
Its  influences  are  felt  and  spread  through- 
out the  entire  flock  if  not  taken  in  hand 
at  the  first  appearance.  There  are  vari- 
ous plans  of  nests  arranged  for  fowls 
given  to  this  habit,  and  the  figures  of 
some  of  them  are  shown  in  the  illustra- 
tions. The  vice  may  also  be  prevented 
by  having  the  nest  in  dark  corners  and 
by  giving  the  confined  fowls  plenty  of 
work.  Place  their  grain  food  under 
straw  and  cause  them  to  scratch  for  it. 
If  these  fail,  it  is  advisable  to  dispose  of 
the  bird,  before  the  entire  flock  become 
addicted  to  the  habit. 

This  vice  is  found  among 
Feather  all  breeds,  but  more  especially 
among  the  French  and  Malay 
Eating,  breeds.  It  invariably  appears  in 
the  hens.  It  may  be  traced  direct- 
ly to  thirst  and  idleness.  Keep  cool,  fresh 
water  always  within  the  reach  of  the  birds. 

Give  as  much  exercise  as  possible.  Many 
cases  may  be  cured  by  a diet  on  animal 
food.  Fresh  meat  and  crushed  bones  should 
be  fed  liberally. 

Frost  bites  affect  the  feet, 

Frost  Bites,  comb  and  wattles.  The  large 
combed  breeds  especially  suf- 
fer from  it.  If  you  detect  the  trouble 
before  the  frozen  parts  have  thawed,  thaw 
out  by  friction  with  snow  or  cold  water, 
and  keep  the  fowls  where  it  is  cold.  After 
thawing,  bathe  the  affected  part  with 
glycerine.  Prevention  is,  however,  better 
than  cure,  and  in  most  cases  may  be  insured 
by  oiling  the  combs  and  wattles  with  a 
sponge  every  morning. 

This  treatment  protects  the  tissues  and 
prevents  water  adhering  and  freezing  on 
the  wattles  when  the  fowls  drink. 


THE  GAPE  WORM. 

B. — Full-grown  gape 
size,  male  and  female, 
largely  magnified. 


GAPE  WORM  AND  EGGS. 
The  worm,  life  size.  2.  The 


3^ 

tail  of  the  female.  4.  The  membran- 
eous sucker  from  the  lower  end  of  the 
body  of  the  male,  which  attaches  it- 
self to  the  female.  5.  The  egg  of  the 
worm.  6.  The  egg  with  the  embryo 
in  an  advanced  state  of  development. 


96 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


APPARATUS  OF  RESPIRATION. 

This  ngure  represents  the  apparatus  of  respiration  of 
"birds  A.  The  solid  lungs,  wnich  are  not  movable.  B , 
C.  The  bones  of  the  body,  the  breast  bone,  C,  extending 
the  whole  length  of  the  body,  i,  2,  3,  4,  5,  6.  The  air  cells 
occupying  the  thorax  and  abdomen,  which  here  form 
one  cavity  or  series  of  cavities.  These  are  dilated  when 
the  chest  rises  to  the  upper  dotted  lines. 


Symptoms.  This  disease  is  most  common  among  young 
Gapes,  fowls,  and  is  caused  by  the  windpipe  being  infested  with  small 
reddish  worms,  causing  the  chick  to  gape  for  breath,  and  death 
ensues  from  suffocation.  The  scientific  name  of  the  worm  is  Syng- 
amus  trachealis.  The  disease  is  not  alone  common  with  chickens, 
but  attacks  turkeys,  ducks  and  all  domestic  fowls,  besides  many  birds 
in  their  wild  state.  The  worm  is  about  three-quarters  of  an  inch  long, 
of  a pale  reddish  color.  It  is  always  found  double  ; a smaller  worm 

being  forked  on  about  one- 
fourth  from  the  upper  end, 
like  the  letter  Y,  which  latter 
is  the  male.  This  parasite 
permantly  attached  to  the 
female.  Propogation  is  by 
means  of  eggs  which  are  about 
one-two-hundred-and  - fiftieth 
part  of  an  inch  in  diameter. 
The  number  found  in  one 
chicken  varies  from  one  to 
three  dozens,  when  the  bird 
strangles  to  death. 

Teatment.  While  no  resem- 
blance is  found  between  the 
egg  of  the  gape  worm  and 
that  of  the  louse,  it  has  been 
found  that  the  treatment  of  rubbing  the  bird’s  head  with  sulphur  and 
lard  for  lice,  has  prevented,  if  not  cured  the  affected  birds.  Cleanliness 
is  to  be  always  paramount  in  the  poultryman’s  yards.  The  following 
ointment  has  been  found  very  good  : Mercurial  ointment,  one  ounce  ; 
pure  lard,  one  ounce  ; flour  of  sulphur,  one-half  ounce  ; crude  petroleum, 
one-half  ounce.  These  should  be  mixed  well  and  applied  to  the  head  of 
the  chick. 

A common  method  of  treating  a bird  affected  with 
the  gapes,  is  to  take  a feather  which  has  been  stripped 
of  the  web  (see  cut),  except  at  the  tip,  (as  shown  in 
the  cut),  and  dip  it  into  sptrits  of  turpentine,  or  kero- 
sene, and  thrust  into  the  windpipe,  turning  the  feather 
around  several  times.  When  the  feather  is  withdrawn 
the  worms  will  come  with  it,  while  others  will  be 
■coughed  out  at  once.  Be  careful  while  treating  a bird 
this  way  to  catch  all  the  worms  that  may  be  coughed 
out  on  a piece  of  paper,  and  burn  them.  It  is  well  to 
bend  the  feather  as  shown  in  the  cut,  when  treating 
small  chickens  ; be  sure  to  place  the  doubled  point  in 
the  windpipe,  and  push  it  down  gently  as  far  as  it  will 
go  ; twist  it  around  several  times  before  pulling  out. 

Place  in  the  drinking  water  a few  drops  of  carbolic 
acid,  or  camphor  or  lime  to  prevent  infection.  When 
a fowl  is  noticed  sick,  separate  it  from  the  flock  and 
place  it  under  immediate  treatment.  All  fowls  that 
die  should  be  burned.  Camphor  in  the  form  of  pills  has  often  been 
given  with  success.  Alum  and  sulphur  in  the  form  of  a fine  powder 
blown  down  the  throat  will  destroy  the  worms. 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


97 


Symptoms.  The  fowl  will  be  noticed  running  around  in  a 
Giddiness,  circle  ; or  it  will  sragger,  as  if  drunk.  This  is  caused  by 
pressure  of  blood  upon  the  brain. 

Treatment.  Catch  the  bird  and  hold  its  head  under  a stream  of  cold 
water.  It  should  be  given  a dose  of  Epsom  salts.  If  the  bird  is  neg- 
lected apoplexy  may  be  developed.  Keep  it  quiet  and  feed  a low  diet 
until  it  recovers. 

Symptoms.  Some  are  like- 
Gout.  ly  to  mistake  this  disease 
for  leg  weakness,  but  it 
may  be  distinguished  by  the 
legs  and  feet  being  hot,  with 
evident  swelling. 

Treatment.  Remove  the  bird 
to  a warm,  dry  place,  and  give  a 
dose  of  calomel  to  open  the  bow- 
els ; after  -which  give  a half- 
grain pill  of  extract  of  colchicum 
twice  a day.  Rub  the  legs  and 
joints  with  sweet  oil. 

Symptoins.  The 
Indigestion,  bird  appears  lazy 
and  walks  about  in 
a sluggish  manner.  It  is  caused 
by  neglect  and  imprudent  feed- 
ing. It  occurs  after  the  use  of 
spiced  food  ; and  is  also  caused 
by  over-feeding.  The  bird  loses 
its  appetite  and  will  not  eat  the 
ordinary  foods  ; the  droppings 
of  the  birds  also  show  ill  health.  The  liver  is  sluggish  ; the  stomach 
inflamed  and  the  system  generally  debilitated. 

Treatment.  Give  daily  five  grains  of  rhubarb,  and  every  fourth  day 
one  grain  of  calomel.  Feed  a small  amount  of  well  cooked  food  twice  a 
day,  and  'allow  water  only  after  eating.  Give  powdered  charcoal  in  the 
soft  food. 

Symptoms.  This  disease  is  most  noticeable  on  account 
Leg  Weakness,  of  the  tendency  of  the  birds  to  squat  on  the  ground 
instead  of  standing  or  walking  about.  It  is  com- 
mon with  cockerels  of  large  breeds,  and  is  evidently  caused  by  growing 
too  fast,  and  arises  from  muscular  weakness  or  from  a deficiency  of  bony 
matter. 

Treatment.  Feed  with  foods  that  do  not  tend  to  produce  fat. 
Some  of  the  best  are  wheat,  barley  and  meat.  Use  bone  dust  freely.  A 
pill  of  the  following,  given  three  times  a day,  will  produce  good  results  : 
Sulphate  of  iron,  one  grain  ; strychnine,  one-sixteenth  grain  ; phosphate 
of  lime;  five  grains  ; sulphate  of  quinine,  one-half  grain.  The  cure  of 
leg  weakness  is  not  difficult  in  all  cases,  and  by  a prompt  treatment  you 
will  in  most  cases  be  successful. 

Symptoms.  This  subject  claims  a goodly  share  of  the  attention 
Lice,  of  the  poultryman.  It  is  a serious  matter  when  lice  once  get  a 
start  in  the  houses,  and  the  losses  therefrom  are  often  very  heavy. 
Many  times  in  this  work  we  have  spoken  of  cleanliness  in  the  houses  and 


98 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


yards,  and  we  earnestly  admonish  the  reader  on  this  subject  again.  It  is 
a much  easier  task  to  prevent  lice  than  to  exterminate  them  after  they 
get  a foot-hold.  Lice  breed  in  dark  and  filthy  places,  cracks  and  crevices. 
They  are  sure  to  be  found  in  such  places — they  are  not  cleaned  regu 


lJpe\‘rus  va- 
t i a nils. 


Goniocotes  burn- 
etti  Pack. 


Goniocotes  ab- 
dominalis  holo- 
gaster  of  Denny 


Men  op  on  pal- 
lidum. 


LOUSE  OF  THE  HEN. 


Goniodes  dissimilis. 


larly.  This  complaint  is  liable  to  lead  the  observer  astray,  and  he  will 
fear  that  his  fowls  are  attacked  with  some  grave  disease.  When  vermin 
infests  a fowl,  it  looks  droopy,  as  if  drawn  up  in  a knot;  loss  of  appe- 
tite is  noticeable  and  the  bird  is  generally  debilitated.  When  you  see  a 
bird  like  this  it  would  be  well  to  examine  it  before  treating  for  some 
other  disease  of  complaint. 

Treatment.  There  are  two  points  essential  to  treating  fowls  for  lice, 
viz  : the  houses  and  the  fowls.  As  regard  the  treatment  of  the  houses, 
we  refer  you  to  the  chapter  on  General  Management.  For  treating  the 
fowls,  the  most  popular  remedy  is  Persian  insect  powder.  Other  reme- 
dies are  as  follows  : A bath  of  one  part  of  carbolic  acid  to  sixty  parts  of 
water,  into  which  the  birds  are  dipped  ; suds  of  carbolic  soap  may  be 
applied  to  the  fowls,  on  all  places  underneath  the  wings,  etc.  This  should 


EVfBDEN  GOOSE. 


be  done  carefully,  and  in  cold  weather  care  should  be  taken  that  the 
birds  do  not  catch  cold.  Carbolic  powder  or  powdered  sulphur  may 
also  be  used.  Under  the  wings  of  full  grown  hens,  an  ointment  of  lard, 
kerosene  and  sulphur  may  be  applied,  but  on  small  chicks  never  use 
kerosene. 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


99 


The  treatment  for  red  mites  is  about  the  same  as  for  lice.  In  the 
application  of  remedies  to  the  fowls,  special  care  must  be  taken  with  the 
back  of  the  neck,  under  the  wings  and  over  the  vent.  Keep  the  building 
thoroughly  whitewashed. 

Symptoms.  When 
Liver  a fowl  is  affected 
with  this  disease, 
Disease,  the  head  and  com  b 
have  a sickly  yel- 
lowish look.  If  neglected, 
mere  indigestion  may  ex- 
tend to  a serious  enlarge- 
ment or  other  disorder  of 
the  liver. 

Treatment.  Give  a grain 
of  calomel  every  other  day 
and  feed  as  directed  for 
indigestion. 

Symptoms . It  is  dis- 
Pip.  tinguished  by  a hard, 
horny  substance  on 
the  end  of  the  tongue.  This 
arises  from  obstruction  of 
the  nostrils  which  causes 
the  bird  to  breathe  through 
its  mouth,  thus  drying  the 
tongue.  Indigestion  may 
also  cause  it.  The  best 
authorities  agree  in  consid- 
ering it  a symptom  of  dis- 
ease elsewhere. 

Treatment.  When  treating  for  this  complaint  give  a gentle  purgative, 
and  diet  carefully.  Two  or  three  grains  of  black  pepper  may  be  given 
daily  as  a stimulant  to  the  digestive  organs. 


SCALY  LEGS. 

A.  Healthy  leg.  B.  Diseased  leg.  C.  Female,  front  view. 
D.  Back  view  of  ditto  E.  The  male.  F.  Six-legged  larve. 
G.  Rostrum  ; m m,  mandibles;  p p,  feelers  ; j j,  checks.  H. 
Front  leg  of  female.  I.  Ditto  of  male,  nymphs  and  young 
females. 


Symptoms.  This  dis- 
Rheumatism.  ease  is  marked  by  an 
evident  weakness  in  the 
legs,  stiffness  in  the  joints,  or  contrac- 
tion of  the  toes.  It  generally  results 
from  exposure  to  the  cold  or  wet,  wet 
roosting  places,  etc. 

Treatment.  Place  the  affected  bird 
in  dry  quarters,  and  give  plenty  of 
stimulating  food.  A little  meat  every 
day  should  be  given.  Rub  the  legs 
with  hot  mustard  water,  afterwards 
wiping  dry. 

Symptoms.  Among  the  most 
Roup,  dreaded  diseases  is  roup,  and 
it  is  extremely  contagious.  The 
germs  of  this  disease  may  be  commun- 
icated by  drinking  or  other  contact — 


WHITE  CRESTED  BLACK  POLISH  HEN. 


100 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


through  the  characteristic  roupy  discharge.  The  symptoms  are  those  of 
a very  aggravated  catarrh  or  cold  of  the  head,  with  fevers,  inflamed  head 
and  eyes,  a dry  cough  and  a dull  wheezing.  The  fowl  drinks  eagerly; 
the  comb  and  wattles  are  pale  or  dark 
colored.  There  is  a yellowish  dis- 
charge from  the  throat,  nostrils  and 
eyes  ; a cheesy  mass  collects  around 
these  organs  and  if  not  attended  to 
immediately,  will  close  them  entirely. 

Death  occurs  within  three  to  eight 
days  from  the  time  of  the  disease’s 
first  appearance.  Colds,  canker  and 
ulceration  are  . often  mistaken  or  con- 
fused with  roup;  in  these  three  men- 
tioned the  discharges  are  usually  thin 
and  watery  ; when  roup  is  really  the 
case,  the  discharges  are  thick  and  have 
a very  offensive  odor. 

Treatment.  The  bird  should  be  iso- 
lated at  the  first  signs,  for  fear  of 
contagion  ; the  water  vessels  should 
be  thoroughly  cleaned,  and  refilled 
w ith  water  containing  a few  drops  of 
carbolic  acid.  Place  the  affected  bird 
in  a warm,  dry  place  and  free  from 
draughts,  with  dry  sand  on  the  floor. 

Give  warm,  stimulating  'food.  Com- 
mence treatment  by  giving  a spoonful 
of  castor  oil.  Wash  the  nostrils,  eyes  and  other  affected  parts  with 
a Solution  of  Chlorinated  Soda,  diluted  writh  twice  its  bulk  of 
water.  Repeat  this  several  times  a day.  Give  the  following  twice  a 
day  : Balsam  copaiba,  one  ounce  ; liquorice,  in  powder,  one-half  ounce  ; 
piperine,  in  powder,  one  drachm.  Add  magnesia  enough  to  make  pills, 

and  divide  into  60  parts.  Generally  under 
this  treatment  the  bird  will  recover,  if  not 
too  badly  affected  before  treatment  is  com- 
menced. Another  remedy,  which  is  handy 
in  form  and  is  highly  recommended,  is  Ger- 
man Roup  Pills.  It  has  long  been  before 
the  poultry  fraternity  and  has  given  satis- 
factory results.  If  the  bird  recovers,  do 
not  return  it  to  the  flock  at  once,  but  keep 
it  on  a tonic  for  some  time.  If  possible, 
avoid  breeding  from  a bird  that  has  recov- 
ered from  the  disease. 

Symptoms.  The  disease 
Scaly  Legs.  known  as  scaly  legs  is  dis- 
tinguished by  the  devel- 
(Elephantiasis.)  opment  of  a rough,  un- 
BLACK  LANGSHAN  HEN.  F sightly  scurf  Qn  the  shanks 

of  the  fowl.  It  occurs  more  frequently  among  the  Asiatic  breeds,  or  those 
formed,  as  the  Leghorns,  by  crossing  with  them  ; and  the  breed  most 
subject  to  the  attacks  of  the  disease  is  the  White  Cochin.  In  the  Buffs  it 


LIGHT  BRAHMA  COCK. 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


101 


is  not  uncommon  ; in  the  Partridge 
Cochins  and  Langshans  it  is  more  rare, 
and  in  the  Brahmas  it  is  very  rare  indeed 
The  disease  is  due  to  a parasitic  insect, 
and  is  very  contagious,  especially  being 
communicated  by  the  hen  to  her  brood. 
The  fact  has  been  demonstrated  that  the 
cause  of  the  disease  is  sudden  exposure 
to  cold  and  wet,  especially  walking  in 
the  snow. 

Treatment.  Place  the  bird  in  dry, warm 
quarters.  In  the  early  stages  of  the  dis- 
ease, a vigorous  scrubbing  with  soap 
tepid  water,  with  a hard  brush,  will 
most  likely  effect  a cure.  In  extreme  or 
very  bad  cases,  an  application  once  a 
week  of  kerosene  and  lard  will  remove 
the  scales.  Make  the  ointment  in  the 
white  faced  aLA^K Spanish  hen. pr0p0rtj0n  Qf  one  teaspoonful  of  kero- 
sene to  four  times  that  amount  of  lard.  In  young  chicks,  an  application 
of  glycerine  is  all  that  is  needed. 


Symptoms.  When  soft  eggs  occur  frequently  it  is  almost 
Soft  Eggs,  always  a.  sign  of  overfeeding,  but  sometimes  the  cause  of 
these  is  the  entire  absence  of  any  material  from  which  to 
form  the  shell.  As  a rule,  when  the  hen  lays  an  egg  without  the  shell,  it 
is  an  indication  of  a weakened  constitution,  and  steps  should  be  immedi- 
ately taken  to  remedy  it. 

Treatment.  When  the  egg  is  complete,  all  but  the  shell,  miss  a meal, 
and  feed  less  than  usual ; but  if  the  egg  is  devoid  of  the  outer  membrane, 
and  the  yolk  only  is  dropped,  it  is  well  to  arrest  egg  production  for  the 
time  being,  by  giving  a pill  containing  one  grain  of  calomel,  one-twelfth 
of  a grain  of  tartar  emetic  and  one-quarter  grain  of  opium  every  four 
hours  ; put  the  bird  on  soft,  unstimulating  diet. 

Symptoms.  The  symptoms  of  this  disease  bear  a striking 
Ulceration,  resemblance  to  aggravated  cases  of  roup.  It  usually  occurs 
about  the  head,  commencing  with  a watery  discharge  from 
the  eyes,  which,  by  degrees,  becomes  of 
a firmer  character  and  has  an  offensive 
odor,  the  nostrils  being  at  first  unaffected. 

The  disease  frequently  extends  to  the 
throat,  covering  the  back  of  the  tongue 
with  an  ulcerous  formation,  and  some- 
times entirely  fills  the  glottis  and  larynx 
with  the  diseased  secretion,  killing  the 
fowl  by  suffocation.  The  cause  is  gener- 
ally a severe  cold  or  irritation. 

Treatment.  Make  a dilution  of  four 
parts  of  water  and  one  part  of  chlori- 
nated soda  or  fluid  carbonate,  and  wash 
the  affected  parts  well  with  the  mixture, 
and  “swab”  the  throat  and  tongue,  if 
affected,  with  the  same. 


WHITE  MINORCA  HEN. 


102 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


When  fowls  are  troubled  with  worms,  they  may  be  the  cause 
Worms,  of  many  diseases.  If  their  presence  is  suspected,  examine  the 
excretions,  and  if  they  are  found,  give  a capsule  of  turpentine 
and  a dose  of  castor  oil.  This  will  usually  effect  a cure  immediately. 


CORNISH  INDIAN  GAMES. 


Learned  authorities  differ  somewhat  on  the  history 
Origin  of  the  and  origin  of  the  domestic  fowl.  Charles  Darwin,  in 
his  “Variations  of  Animals  and  Plants  under  Domestica- 
Domestic  Fowl,  tion,”  speaks  on  the  subject  as  follows  : 

“The  G.  Bankiva  has  a much  wider  geogiaphical 
range  than  either  the  G.  Stanleyii,  G.  Sonnerattii  or  the  G.  Varius  ; it 
inhabits  Northern  India  as  far  west  as  the  Sinde,  and  ascends  the  Hima- 
laya to  the  height  of  four  thousand  feet  ; it  inhabits  Burmah,  the  Malay 
Peninsula,  the  Indo-Chinese  countries,  the  Phillipine  Islands  and  the 
Malayan  Archipelago,  as  far  eastward  as  the  Timor.  This  species  varies 
considerably  in  the  wild  state.  Mr.  Blvth  informs  me  that  specimens, 
both  male  and  female,  brought  from  near  the  Himalaya,  are  rather  paler 
colored  than  those  from  other  parts  of  India,  whilst  those  from  the 
Malay  Peninsula  and  Java  are  brighter  colored  than  the  Indian  birds 
I have  seen  specimens  from  these  countries,  and  the  difference  in  tint  in 
the  hackles  was  conspicuous.  The  legs  are  leaden  blue  in  the  Indian, 
whereas  they  show  some  tendency  to  be  yellowish  in  the  Malayan  and 
Java  specimens. 

“The  wild  G.  Bankiva  agree  most  closely  with  the  Blackbreasted 
Red  Game  breed  in  coloring  and  in  all  other  respects,  except  in  being 
smaller,  and  in  the  tail  being  carried  more  horizontally.  But  the  manner 
in  which  the  tail  is  carried  is  highly  variable  in  many  of  our  breeds,  for 
the  tail  slopes  much  in  the  Malays,  is  erect  in  the  Games  and  some  other 
breeds  and  is  more  than  erect  in  the  Dorkings,  Bantams,  etc.  There  is 
one  other  difference,  namely,  that  in  the  G.  Bankiva,  according  to  Dr 
Blyth,  the  neck  hackles  when  first  moulted  are  replaced  dhring  two  or 
three  months,  not  with  other  hackles,  as  with  our  domestic  poultry,  but 
by  short  blackish  feathers.  Mr.  Brent,  however,  has  remarked  that  these 
black  feathers  remain  in  the  wild  bird  after  the  development  of  the  lower 
hackles  and  appear  in  the  domestic  bird  at  the  same  time  with  them. 

It  is  a significant  fact  that  the  voice  of  both  male  and  female  G 
Bankiva  closely  resembles  the  voice  of  the  sex  in  the  common  domestic 
fowl,  but  the  last  note  of  the  crow  of  the  wild  bird  is  rather  less  prolonged 

“From  the  extremely  close  resemblance  in  color,  general  structure 
and  especially  in  the  voice,  between  Gallus  Bankiva  and  the  Game  fowls 
from  their  fertility,  as  far  as  this  has  been  ascertained,  when  crossed 
from  the  possibility  of  the  wild  specie  being  tamed,  and  from  its  varying 
in  the  wild  state,  we  may  confidently  look  at  it  as  the  parent  of  the  most 
typical  of  the  domestic  breeds,  namely,  the  Game  fowl.” 

As  regards  the  history  of  the  fowl,  Mr.  Darwin  continues  as  follows 
“Rutimeyer  found  no  remains  of  the  fowl  in  the  ancient  Swiss  lake 


104 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


dwellings.  It  is  not  mentioned  in  the  Old  Testament;  nor  is  it  figured 
on  the  old  Egyptian  monuments.  It  is  not  referred  to  by  Homer  nor 
Hesiod  (about  900  B.  C.);  but  it  is  mentioned  by  Theognis  and  Aristo- 
phanes between  400  and  500  B.  C.  It  is  figured  on  some  of  the  Baby- 
lonian cylinders,  between  the  sixth  and  seventh  centuries,  B.  C.,  and  on 
the  Harpy  Tomb  in  Lycia  about  600  B.  C.,  so  that  we  may  feel  pretty 
confident  that  the  fowl  reached  Europe  somewhere  near  the  sixth  cen- 
tury, B.  C.  It  had  traveled  still  farther  westward  by  the  time  of  the 
Christian  era,  for  it  was  found  in  Britain  by  Julius  Caesar.  In  India  it 
must  have  been  domesticated  when  the  Institutes  of  Manu  were  written  ; 
that  is,  according  to  Sir  W.  Jones,  1200  B.  C.,  but  according  to  later 
authority  of  Mr.  H.  Wilson,  only  800  B.  C.,  for  the  domestic  fowl  is  for- 
bidden while  the  wild  is  permitted  to  be  eaten.” 

Mr.  Wright,  in  his  book  on  poultry,  speaks  of  the  subject  as  follows: 
“We  have  on  several  occasions  incidentally  stated  our  opinion  that  more 
facts  need  to  be  ascertained  before  the  question  of  the  origin  of  the 
domestic  fowl  can  be  satisfactorily  settled.  It  is  well  known,  however. 


GALLUS  BANKIVA. 


that  modern  naturalists,  among  whom  Mr.  Darwin  deserves  special 
mention,  believe  that  one  existing  wild  variety  known  as  the  Gallus 
Bankiva,  is  the  sole  progenitor  ; and  we  formerly  accepted  this  view 
ourselves  on  what  we  supposed  to  be  sufficient  authority  of  such  names, 
but  have  been  gradually  led  to  look  upon  it  with  the  greatest  distrust  by 
facts  which  have  since  fallen  under  Our  observation,  or  been  communi- 
cated to  us  by  others  in  the  course  of  an  extensive  correspondence  upon 
poultry  matters. 

Continuing,  Mr.  Wright  says  : “The  Gallus  Sonnerattii  is  a very 
peculiar  and  apparently  distinct  variety.  It  is  confined  to  the  more 
southerly  parts  of  India,  among  which,  however,  it  is  very  common,  and 
is  known  as  the  ‘Jungle  Cock’  by  Indian  sportsmen.  Col.  Sykes  says 
that  it  is  very  abundant  in  the  woods  of  western  Ghauts,  and  that  it 
should  be  subdivided  into  two  strongly  marked  varieties;  one  of  which, 
however,  appears  to  be  the  Gallus  Stanleyii,  the  cock  having  a great 
deal  of  red  in  the  plumage,  which  the  true  Sonnerattii  has  not.  This 
breed  in  general  customs  much  more  resembles  the  domestic  fowls  than 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


105 


either  of  the  preceding;  it  is  larger,  stronger  and  more  powerful.  It, 
however,  differs  in  the  hen  being  destitute  of  either  comb  or  wattles, while 
the  comb  of  the  cock  has  only  very  fine  serrations  on  the  edge  ; and 
still  more  in  the  peculiar  character  of  the  cock’s  hackles,  the  shafts  of 
which  expand  at  the  tips  into  a flat  and  bony  plate,  which  gleams  in  the 
sun.  These  plates  are  generally  of  golden  orange  color,  but  occasionally 
appear  banded  with  various  colors.  The  plumed  portion  of  the  hackle 
is  dark  grayish,  the  shafts  being  deep  golden,  which  expands  at  the  tip 
into  the  plate  just  described  ; and  not  infrequently  the  hackles  will  show 
two  such  plates,  the  shaft  of  the  feathers  contracting  after  the  first  and 
then  again  expanding.  The  breast  and  back  are  generally  a rich  gray, 
verging  into  black  or  blue  ; the  tail  black,  brilliantly  glossed  with  green, 
and  the  bill,  legs  and  feet  yellow.  The  hen  is  generally  of  a brown  or 
partridge  color  on  the  upper  parts,  and  grayish  white  on  the  breast, 

passing  into  almost  pure 
white  under  the  throat. 
The  crow  of  the  cock,  it  is 
agreed  by  all,  differs  some- 
what from  that  of  the  ordi- 
ary  fowl.  Its  crow  is  very 
peculiar,  being  a broken 
and  imperfect  kind  of  crow, 
impossible  to  describe.” 

The  Gallus  Stenleyii  is 
generally  stated  to  be 
peculiar  to  the  island  of 
Ceylon,  but  Mr.  Trevor 
Dickens  states  that  it  is 
also  met  with  over  the 
southern  slopes  of  the 
Ghauts,  and  in  Java.  It  is 
very  much  like  the  G.  Ban- 
kiva,  except  that  the  cock 
has  a red  or  brown  breast, 
and  the  comb  is  almost 
yellow,  but  with  a red  edge. 
gallus  sonnerattii.  The  cock  often  crosses  with 

domestic  birds,  but  the  hybrids  thus  produced  are  sterile.'  This  variety 
has  never  yet  been  bred  in  confinement. 

The  male  birds  have  orange-yellow  hackles,  a yellowish  red  breast, 
pink  legs,  and  a beautiful  bluish  purple  saddle.  The  hackle  feathers  are 
true  hackle  feathers  and  the  saddle  feathers  are  broad  and  rounded  at 
the  points,  though  exceedingly  glossy.  The  comb  is  short  and  narrow 
at  the  base,  expanding  at  the  summit,  and  both  it  and  the  wattles  are 
of  the  ordinary  color,  except  that  the  comb  is  yellow  in  the  center.  The 
comb  of  the  hen  is  very  small  and  her  plumage  is  plain,  unobtrusive 
partridge  color. 

“The  ‘Javanese  Jungle  Fowl,’  known  as  the  Gallus  Varius  or  Gallus 
Furcatus,  or  as  the  ‘Forked  Tail  Cock,”  which  is  simply  the  last  name 
translated,  is  in  some  respects  a most  peculiar  and  strongly  marked  bird. 
The  comb  of  the  cock  is  small  and  unserrated,  is  bluish  at  the  base, 
changing  to  violet  or  purple  at  the  edge.  The  head  is  rather  long  and 
narrow,  the  face  being  red  and  the  eye  very  prominent.  Under  the 


106 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


throat,  in  place  of  the  usual  double  wattles,  is  a single  wattle  hanging 
from  the  median  line  of  the  lower  mandible.  The  feathers  of  the  neck 
are  scarcely  like  hackles,  but  are  blunt  and  rounded  on  the  lower  edge, 
being  of  a deep  metallic  green,  bordered  with  black,  and  give  much  the 
effect  of  scales.  The  saddle  feathers  are  of  the  same  metallic  green  in 
the  center,  but  are  bordered  with  yellow  ; and  the  wing-bow  feathers  or 
shoulder-coverts  are  the  same  green,  with  golden  green  edges.  The 
tail  is  glossy  green-black,  the  two  center  feathers  branching  open,  from 
which  one  of  the  names  is  derived. 

“The  hen  is  smaller,  has  no  comb  or  wattles,  and  is  of  a generally 
grayish  color  underneath,  with  greenish  hackles  and  gray,  with  a more 
brownish  tinge  over  the  upper  parts  of  the  body  and  the  tail,  The  color 
of  the  legs  seems  to  vary,  the  Antwerp  specimens  being  of  a flesh-color, 
while  most  of  the  Eastern  sportsmen  describe  the  color  as  blue  or  bluish 
gray.” 

Summing  up  the  whole,  Mr.  Wright  says  : “It  appears  that  the 
barrenness  of  the  hybrids  of  the  Gallus  Sonnerattii  is,  at  best,  exceedingly 
doubtful,  and  disappearing  in  a great  degree  under  more  natural  con- 
ditions ; while  peculiar  traits  quickly  disappear,  and  the  wild  blood  is 
rapidly  absorbed  into  the  domestic  ; we  find  also  that  the  crow,  although 
peculiar,  is  not  so  very  unlike  the  Bantam’s.  We  find  further  that  the 
symptoms  of  reversion  in  the  domestic  breeds  point  to  the  color  of  this 
variety  rather  than  to  the  one  usually  regarded  as  the  parent.  We  find 
a strong  tendency  to  approach  more  or  less  to  every  peculiar  point  of 
the  Gallus  Furcatus  in  a domestic  Asiatic  breed  ; while  the  latter  breed 
also  possesses  a peculiar  feature,  the  comb,  to  which  other  Asiatic  breeds 
show  a strong  tendency  still  to  revert.  And  in  the  Gallus  Bankiva  it  is 
found  that  the  voice  differs  in  some  degree  ; that  it  has  a peculiar 
feature — the  temporary  black  hackle — which  only  appears  to  be  found 
in  the  domestic  breed  most  closely  resembling  it,  and  not  always  even  in 
that  ; whilst  the  perfect  fertility  of  the  hybrids  still  remains  to  be  ascer- 
tained, and  for  all  that  appears  is  in  no  respect  greater  than  that  of  the 
Sonnerat. 

“What  are  we  to  suppose?  That  the  Gallus  Furcatus,  for  instance, 
was  the  progenitor  of  the  Brahma,  just  as  the  Gallus  Bankiva  almost 
unquestionably  was  of  the  Game?  By  no  means:  no  naturalist  would 
come  to  any  such  conclusion.  What  we  think  is  clear;  is  simply  that 
there  are  tendencies  in  some  of  our  domestic  breeds  which  certainly  are 
not  due  to  the  Gallus  Bankiva,  and  which  as  they  are  found  in  the  Gallus 
rurcatus,  are  probably  the  result  of  natural  rather  than  artificial  develop- 
ment ; a conclusion  which  strengthened  by  the  fact  that  another  feature, 
Gallus  F urcatus,  not  usually  found  in  the  domestic  breed  most  resembling 
it,  still  appears,  occasionally,  by  reversion,  in  that  same  breed. 

“Hence  we  are  disposed  to  think  the  original  type  can  only  be 
found  still  farther  back  ; that  it  diverged  into  various  sub-types,  including 
the  four  wild  breeds  still  known,  and  developed  through  the  Gallus  Ban- 
kiva into  the  Games,  while  other  breeds  were  reached  through  the  col- 
lateral branches,  now  either  extinct  or  possibly  still  farther  modified  into 
the  present  other  three  known  races.” 


&1BEPCAN 


Plymouth  I^ogi^,  Wyandotte,  Uaya, 

Dominique,  ^ei^sey  Blue 


n\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\s\\\\\\\\\n\\\\\\\\\\n\\vo 


This  fowl  has  a national  reputation.  It  enjoys  a 
Plymouth  Rocks,  popularity  which  has  been  earned  through  the  practi- 
cal tests  of  many  years’  breeding,  and  it  has  firmly 
established  itself  in  the  American  home  to-day  as  the  beau  ideal  of  the 
feathered  arena.  We  may  even  go  further  and  say  that  the  Plymouth 
Rock  is  the  most  popular  fowl  in  the  world  for  general  purposes.  Dis- 
tinctly American  in  its  origin,  and  being  carefully  bred  under  the  same 
influence,  it  must  be  recognized  as  a leader  in  that  class,  and  a standard 
by  which  others  may  be  judged. 

The  early  history  of  the  Plymouth  Rocks  goes  back  a little  over  a 
quarter  of  a century  ; yet,  some  suppose  from  its  exalted  position  that  it 
is  a fowl  of  many  years’  ancestry.  Various  bloods  have  been  used  in 
making  the  Plymouth  Rock  fowl,  but  the  most  reasor>able  belief  is,  that 
the  bird  originally  came  from  the  American  Dominique  crossed  with  the 
Black  Java.  Subsequently  it  has  been  shown  that  the  Light  Brahma, 
Dark  Brahma  and  Pit  Game  have  been  used  in  its  make  up. 

We  quote  extracts  from  an  article  by  the  Rev.  H.  S.  Ramsdell, which 
was  published  in  the  Pet  Stock,  Pigeon  and  Poultry  Bulletin , for  March, 
1873,  as  follows  : 

“Some-thirty  years  since,  John  Giles,  Esq.,  introduced  a fowl  into  this 
vicinity  called  the  Black  Java;  its  plumage  was  black  and  glossy;  its 
size  large.  It  was  an  unusually  hardy  bird,  with  dark  slate-colored, 
smooth  legs,  and  the  bottom  of  the  foot  yellow.  It  proved  a good 
layer  and  of  extra  quality  for  the  table.  I sold  a few  of  the  birds  to 
Mr.  Thayer,  of  Pomfret,  of  whom  Mr.  George  Clark,  of  Woodstock,  Conn., 
purchased  some.  Mr.  Clark,  in  passing  Mr.  Spaulding’s  yard  one  day, 
noticed  a fine  flock  of  Dominiques,. and  proposed  bringing  a few  of  his 
Javas  over  to  cross  with  them,  to  increase  the  size.  Mr.  Spaulding 
accepted  the  offer,  and  when  the  chicks  were  grown  he  rejected  the  black 
ones  and  those  with  double  combs,  reserving  to  breed  from  only  single- 
combed  birds  which  retained  the  Dominique  color,  or  near  it.  They 
were  usually  of  darker  plumage  than  the  Dominique,  the  legs  sometimes 
resembled  the  Javas — dark,  with  yellow  feet — but  were  mostly  yellow,  or 
yellow  with  a slight  streak  of  dark  on  the  front  of  the  leg,  which,  with 
the  feet,  were  free  from  feathers.  * * * 

“We  received  some  eggs  from  the  cross  from  Mr.  Spaulding  as  a 
present.  We  soon  had  a fine  flock  of  them.  * * * The  fowls  were  soon 
spread  around  the  neighborhood,  and  were  much  sought  after,  but  they 
had  no  name.  A gentleman  asked  me  what  I called  them.  Not  know- 
ing that  any  of  Bennet’s  were  now  in  existence — I had  not  seen  any  for 
years — I said  ‘Plymouth  Rock.’  The  name  passed  from  one  to  another, 
and  they  weie  soon  generally  knowm  by  that  name.” 


108 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


In  the  above  quotation  it  is  plainly  shown  that  our  modern  thorough- 
bred Plymouth  Rock  came  originally  from  the  crossing  of  two  seem- 
ingly mongrel  breeds.  From  the  progeny  of  this  cross,  those  which 
were  more  uniform  in  color  were  selected  and  bred  from  ; this  same 
method  being  repeated  year  after  year  until  the  zenith  of  ambition  was 
reached  in  the  type  and  style  of  bird  of  the  present  generation. 

The  Plymouth  Rock  is  a fancier’s  fowl  from  an  artistic  point  of  view. 
Its  fine  symmetrical  figure  has  grace  in  its  every  curve,  and  the  upright 
carriage  is  of  easy  motion  and  well  defined  activity.  In  plumage  one 
cannot  fail  to  recognize  the  harmony  of  color,  with  the  parallel  bars  of 
blue-black  and  white  running  evenly  over  the  entire  form  of  the  fowl,, 
reflecting  in  contrast  to  the  surroundings  a beauty  that  is  distinct  in 
itself,  must  necessarily  meet  with  favor  in  the  cynical  eye.  With  the 
more  practical — the  farmer  and  the  market  poultryman — this  bird  is  a 
great  favorite,  being  of  medium  size,  well  proportioned,  with  a deep  full 
breast,  making  a most  admirable  bird  for  market  purposes.  They  are 
hardy,  and  mature  early,  making  fine  broilers  from  eight  to  twelve  weeks 
of  age.  Under  ordinary  circumstances  they  lay  well,  and  as  winter 
layers  there  are  few,  if  any,  that  can  excel  them.  They  are  patient  sit- 
ters and  amicable  mothers  to  their  young,  giving  them  the  care  and 
attention  which  maternal  instincts  prompt  them  to  do.  The  many 
thousand  birds  raised  annually  testify  to  the  popularity  of  the  Plymouth 
Rock,  and  those  who  have  had  experience  with  them  are  loudest  in  the 
praise  of  the  many.good  qualities  which  are  embodied  in  this  breed. 

There  are  four  varieties  of  the  Plymouth  Rock — the  Barred,  Buff, 
Pea  Comb  Barred  and  the  White.  In  general  character  of  outline,  size 
and  shape,  they  are  identically  the  same  bird  ; as  regards  the  qualities, 
etc.,  the  only  traceable  difference  being  in  color.  The  variety  of  color 
and  markings  in  the  feathers  is  essential  to  please  the  varying  impres- 
sions of  the  fancier’s  eye,  and  afford  him  a wider  range  to  select  that 
which  pleases  him  the  most,  and  at  the  same  time  giving  him  the  dis- 
tinct outlines  and  characteristics  of  the  breed  that  comes  nearest  his 
fancy.  Some  may  prefer  the  mellow  tones  of  the  rich  buff,  while  others 
crave  the  pure,  spotless  white,  and  still  others  want  the  grayish  white 
plumage  of  the  barred  variety. 

In  size  the  four  varieties  average  the  same,  the  weight  of  the  cock 
being  nine  and  one-half  pounds,  and  the  hen  seven  and  one-half  pounds; 
cockerels  and  pullets  weigh  a pound  to  a pound  and  a half  less  than  the 
cock  and  hen. 

The  Barred  Plymouth  Rock  is  of  a grayish-white  color,  regularly 
crossed  with  parallel  bars  of  blue-black  running  in  straight  distinct 
lines  throughout  the  entire  length  of  the  feather,  and  showing  on  the 
down  or  under-color  of  the  feathers.  The  barring  is  somewhat  smaller 
on  the  hackle  and  saddle  feathers  than  on  other  portions  of  the  body. 
The  bird  is  of  medium  size,  with  broad  neck,  flat  at  the  shoulders  ; the 
breast  is  full,  and  the  body  broad  and  compact;  medium-sized  wings, 
*that  fold  gracefully,  the  points  being  well  covered  with  breast  and  sad- 
dle feathers.  A medium-sized  head,  ornamented  with  upright,  bright- 
red  comb  and  wattles,  a large,  bright  eye,  and  yellow  beak,  legs  and 
toes,  places  the  picture  before  us  in  its  entirety.  The  difference  between 
the  Barred  and  the  Pea-comb  Barred  is  that  the  latter  has  a small,  firm 
and  even  pea-comb  instead  of  single  comb. 

In  the  White  Plymouth  Rock  the  plumage  is  pure  white  throughout. 


POULTRY  BOOK 


109 


The  Buff  variety  is  colored  a clear  buff,  uniform  in  shade,  except  the 
tail,  which  is  deep  buff,  or  copperish  yellow-brown.  In  the  Buff  variety 
the  color  should  extend  to  the  under-color  as  much  as  possible,  although 
a shade  lighter  is  permissible  for  exhibition  birds. 

To  breed  the  Barred  variety  successfully  requires  much  study.  It  is 
an  art  to  harmonize  the  color  and  produce  the  desired  results.  Keep 
always  in  view  the  preservation  of  the  blue-bars,  and  make  no  sacrifice 
in  breeding  of  this  particular  feature.  The  barrings  of  the  feathers 
should  be  straight,  running  parallel  at  regular  intervals  down  to  the  skin 
of  the  bird. 

When  mating  for  cockerels,  a standard  colored  male,  with  a medium 
dark  female,  will  produce  the  best  results.  Light  cocks  and  dark  hens 
produce  prime  pullets.  In  breeding  it  is  best  to  use  birds  whose  ances- 
tors have  bred  true  to  feather,  as  chance  birds  are  not  likely  to  produce 
their  like  in  their  progeny  ; more  satisfaction  is  to  be  had  by  using  birds 
which  have  stood  well  in  their  class  ; the  finer  the  cockerel  the  better  the 
results.  Good  birds  are  sometimes  had  by  mating  a standard  male  to  a 
standard  female.  From  a single  mating  the  writer  once  saw  some  very 
fine  youngsters,  and  was  told  that  this  method  of  mating  had  always 
been  employed  by  the  breeder  who  owned  them. 

There  are  five  standard  varieties  of  Wyandottes — the 
Wyandottes.  Silver,  Golden,  White,  Buff  and  Black. 

Less  than  a quarter  of  a century  ago  this  breed  was  first 
Tcnown  in  the  State  of  New  York.  They  were  on  first  sight  pronounced 
beautiful,  their  black  and  white  plumage  forming  a decided  and  pleasing 
contrast.  In  disposition  they  were  found  to  be  docile  ; good  layers,  a 
good  table  fowl,  and,  in  fact,  a fine  general  purpose  fowl.  They  were 
good  sitters  and  mothers.  These  characteristics  were  commendable  of 
the  breed,  and  placed  them  in  popular  esteem  at  once.  Through  careful 
breeding,  these  points  have  been  carefully  developed,  and  this  bird  of 
mixed  origin  has  risen  from  nothing,  comparatively  speaking,  to  one  of 
the  most  popular  and  beautiful  birds  of  American  creation. 

The  speckled  variety  seems  to  have  descended  from  several  breeds, 
and  no  definite  idea  was  at  first  advanced  as  to  its  origin.  Through 
the  knowledge  of  early  breeders  we  are  told  that  several  well-known 
breeds  are  responsible  for  its  origin.  The  three  most  prominent  fowls 
used  in  making  the  Wyandottes  are  the  Dark  Brahmas,  Silver  Spangled 
Hamburgs,  and  the  Bredas,  or  Guelders,  a French  fowl,  which  came 
originally  from  the  feather-crested  Polish  family.  Some  authorities  go 
even  further,  and  say  that  the  Wyandottes  have  Cochin  blood  in  them, 
from  the  fact  that  at  first  their  ancestors  produced  single  combs  and 
feathered  legs. 

As  a fowl  for  fancy  purposes,  the  Wyandottes  have  many  admirers, 
and  few  classes  outnumber  this  one  at  shows.  For  farm  and  market 
purposes  they  have  few  superiors,  being  excellent  table  fowls  and  pro- 
lific layers.  The  flesh  is  sweet,  juicy  and  tender,  making  them  favorites 
for  roasters  and  broilers.  As  winter  layers,  they  give  a good  return  in 
eggs  for  the  food  consumed. 

In  color  the  Silver  variety  is,  as  the  name  implies,  a silvery  white, 
with  regularly  marked  white  lacing  on  breast.  The  cock  has  a silver- 
white  head,  rose  comb,  yellow  legs  (clear  of  feathers),  silver  hackle,  with 
a black  stripe  down  the  feather  ; silver  white  back;  saddle  same  as 
hackle  ; breast  black,  with  white  center,  the  center  tapering  to  a point 


110 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


near  the  extremity  ; tail  black,  wings  composed  of  feathers  half  black 
and  the  other  half  white,  or  black  edged  with  white  ; when  the  wing  is 
folded  there  should  be  a well  defined  ring-bar  across  the  wings. 

The  Golden  variety  is  marked  like  the  Silver,  excepting  that  the 
color  is  golden  bay  and  black  instead  of  white  and  black. 

Like  the  Silver  Laced,  the  White  Wyandotte  holds  an  enviable 
position  in  the  hearts  of  fanciers.  They  retain  the  fine  qualities  of  the 
Silvers,  being  solidly  built,  compactly  made,  yellow  legged,  yellow 
skinned,  with  plumage  that  shows  the  pin  feathers  in  the  least  manner. 
It  is  a beautiful  fowl  for  the  poultryman  or  fancier ; its  snow  white 
plumage,  with  bright  red  comb,  face  and  wattles,  makes  an  interesting 
picture  to  behold.  Its  shanks  are  well  formed  and  rich  yellow  in  color, 
being  free  from  all  feathering. 

The  Buff  and  Blacks  are  not  so  popular  as  the  two  first  mentioned. 
Being  of  recent  introduction  they  have  not  yet  become  well  known.  In 
color  the  Buff  Wyandotte  is  a clear  buff  throughout,  except  the  tail, 
which  is  a deeper  shade,  or  copperish  brown. 

The  neck,  back,  saddle  and  coverts  of  the  Black  Wyandotte  are  of  a 
rich  black,  with  glossy  green  reflections,  the  breast,  tail  and  fluff  being 
pure  black. 

This  breed  is  of  medium  weight — the  cock  weighing  from  eight  to 
eight  and  a half  pounds,  and  the  hens  about  two  pounds  less.  They  are 
easily  kept  in  confinement,  and  accept  the  situation  quietly,  without 
fretting  or  worrying. 

The  chicks  of  all  the  Wyandottes  are  hardy,  grow  rapidly  and  are 
good  foragers. 

They  lay  eggs  of  good  size,  about  seven  to  the  pound,  which  are  of  a 
creamy  color,  rich  in  flavor,  usually  fertile  and  hatch  well.  In  confine- 
ment from  six  to  eight  hens  should  be  put  with  a cock;  not  more,  unless 
the  runs  are  unusually  large,  as  in  too  small  an  inclosure  they  do  not 
exercise  enough,  and  then  the  eggs  are  not  as  apt  to  be  fertile.  They 
commence  to  lay  at  about  six  months  of  age,  and  if  hatched  out  in  April 
or  May  will  commence  to  lay  in  the  fall  and  continue  through  the  winter. 

This  variety  of  fowls  is  one  of  the  oldest  in  the  American  class. 
Javas.  They  were  exhibited  at  shows  over  half  a century  ago,  and  were 
at  that  time  considered  a very  beautiful  and  valuable  breed.  For 
some  unknown  reason  they  are  not  so  extensively  bred  to-day,  nor  are 
they  as  popular  as  they  should  be. 

It  was  one  of  the  breeds  that  was  used  in  making  the  famous  Ply- 
mouth Rocks.  There  are  three  kinds  of  Javas — the  Black,  Mottled  and 
White. 

In  size  they  are  between  the  Brahma  and  the  Wyandotte,  weighing 
about  the  same  as  the  Plymouth  Rocks.  The  cocks  weigh  about  nine 
and  one-half  pounds  ; hens,  six  and  one-half  pounds.  The  plumage  of 
the  Black  Javas  is  glossy  black  throughout ; the  comb  is  rather  small 
and  single,  with  well  defined  serrations.  The  back  is  broad  ; the  breast, 
full  and  medium  ; the  wings  are  of  medium  size.  The  shanks  are  black 
and  the  bottoms  of  the  feet  yellow. 

The  color  of  the  Mottled  Javas  is  an  intermixture  of  black  and 
white  ; and  the  White  variety  is  a pure  white  throughout. 

The  Javas  are  layers  of  large, well  flavored  eggs,  and  as  winter  layers 
they  do  well,  being  large  and  heavily  feathered.  For  the  table  they 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


Ill 


afford  nice  eating,  and  make  a good  appearance  when  dressed  for  market. 
They  mature  early,  are  good  sitters  and  mothers,  and  are  easily  kept  in 
confinement. 

The  American  Dominique  has  long  been  before  the  poul- 
Dominique.  try  world  as  a favorite  ; its  early  history  precedes  the  others 
of  its  class.  The  Dominique  and  Barred  Plymouth  Rock 
are  similar  in  appearance,  and  to  many  unfamiliar  with  the  breeds  are 
often  taken  for  the  same  fowl. 

In  size  the  Dominique  is  smaller  than  the  Plymouth  Rock,  being 
about  one  pound  lighter. 

In  color  the  Dominique  is  of  a grayish-white,  the  feathers  being 
crossed  with  the  blue-black  bars,  giving  the  bird  a bluish  tinge.  A neat 
rose  comb,  resembling  that  of  the  Hamburg  ; the  face,  wattles  and  deaf- 
ears  are  bright  red  in  color  ; the  shanks  and  toes  are  bright  yellow.  It 
is  a neat-looking  fowl,  the  color  of  the  plumage  not  showing  dirt  as 
much  as  in  some  other  breeds. 

As  a general-purpose  fowl,  the  Dominique  is  to  be  recommended. 
It  is  an  excellent  layer;  hardy,  matures  early  and  dresses  well  for  the  table. 

In  breeding  select  hens  of  a medium  shade,  and  mate  them  with  a 
cock  slightly  darker,  avoiding  birds  of  either  red  or  black  feathers. 

The  Jersey  Blues  are  the  least  known  of  American 
Jersey  Blues,  varieties  of  poultry.  They  are  one  of  the  largest  breeds 
we  have,  the  cocks  weighing  ten  pounds  and  the  hens 
eight.  They  differ  from  others  of  their  class  in  color  of  legs  and  toes, 
which  are  dark  blue  or  slate  colored.  This,  no  doubt,  keeps  them  from 
becoming  a popular  table  fowl,  as  the  American  sentiment  favors  yellow 
skin  and  yellow  shanks.  As  a breed,  they  are  hardy  and  easily  kept  in 
confinement,  and  average  well  as  layers. 

In  color  of  plumage  they  resemble  the  Andalusians,  being,  as  their 
name  implies,  blue  feathered  throughout.  Their  breasts  and  fluffs  are 
light  blue.  The  hackle  and  back  sickles  are  very  dark  blue,  approaching 
black.  They  have  a single  comb  and  medium-sized  wattles. 


HEAD  OF  RED  CAP. 


White  Chinese 

^Goose. 


iToulouse. 

GjOOSE. 


Jbastopol 


mil™ 


(anada 

Goose 


^pJSlATlG 


CLASS, 

Brahma,  Goghin,  Langshan. 


No  fowl  is  more  popular  to-day  than  the  Brahma.  It* 
Brahmas,  popularity  dates  back  to  the  early  ages  of  poultry  raising, 
and  amidst  all  the  influences  that  have  prevailed  for  other 
breeds  the  admirers  of  the  Brahma  have  been  the  most  enthusiastic.  Its 
many  qualities  of  excellence,  its  fine  appearance,  and  the  profit  derived 
from  them,  have  caused  it  to  be  termed  the  ideal  and  “all  purpose  fowl.” 

Its  antecedents  can  be  traced  to  the  Gray  Shanghais,  which  were 
large-boned,  long-necked,  and  of  large  size.  Many  cocks  have  been 
known  to  weigh  seventeen  pounds.  This  is,  of  course,  in  excess  of  the 
standard  weight  of  the  breed,  yet  many  have  been  exhibited  which 
weighed  from  twelve  to  fifteen  pounds.  The  standard  weights  are  : 
Cock,  twelve  pounds ; cockerel,  ten  pounds  ; hen,  nine  and  one-half 
pounds,  and  pullet,  eight  pounds.  It  has  frequently  been  urged  to 
reduce  the  standard  weight  of  the  cocks  two  pounds,  which  would  bring 
them  close  to  the  weight  of  the  Plymouth  Rocks.  This  reduction  of 
weight  would  undoubtedly  enhance  the  value  of  the  breed,  as  it  would 
mean  quicker  maturity,  and  this  means  quicker  returns  on  the  capital 
and  labor  invested. 

There  has  been  no  change  in  shape  or  color  of  this  breed  since  1869; 
the  standard  has  been  the  same,  and  all  deviations  from  this  have  been 
caused  by  neglect  or  fancy  of  the  individual  breeder.  Every  breed  has 
its  own  type,  and  the  Brahma  is  more  than  characteristic  in  this  regard, 
and  is  peculiarly  different  from  any  other  breed. 

The  ideal  birds  shown  in  the  cuts  portray  the  typical  Brahma,  $nd 
clearly  define  the  points  of  excellence  in  the  fowl.  The  average  well 
bred  bird  is  in  height  26  inches  ; back  from  the  ground,  16  inches  ; keel 
from  the  ground,  eight  inches  ; length  of  body,  front  of  breast  to  rear  of 
fluff,  14  inches  ; height  of  tail,  a trifle  over  21  inches  ; saddle  hangers,  to 
rear  of  fluff,  tw'o  and  a quarter  inches  ; eye,  from  tip  of  beak,  two  and 
one-sixth  inches  ; length  of  head  and  beak,  three  and  one  half  inches  ; 
breast,  to  rear  of  a drop  line  from  point  of  beak,  three-fourths  to  one  and 
one-fourth  inches.  As  specimens  depart  from  this  proportion,  they 
become  awkward  and  valueless  as  exhibition  stock,  and  often  also  as 
egg  producers. 

The  Light  Brahma  male  is  smooth  in  plumage  of  thighs,  with  close 
turned  hock  and  properly  feathered  shanks  and  toes.  Each  lesser 
sickle  reaches  just  even  with  and  completely  hides  the  tail  proper.  The 
slight  concave  line  from  point  of  keel  bone  to  the  front  of  thighs  and  the 
downward  slope  just  in  front  of  the  hip  joints,  where  the  saddle  com- 
mences and  carries  the  concave  line  to  the  tail,  are  important  features  of 
the  bird.  Since  the  first  adoption  of  the  standard,  there  has  been  no 
deviation  from  the  broad  skull,  overhanging  brows,  short,  well-arched 
beak  and  the  peculiar  arch  of  the  hackle  and  slope  of  the  back  ; th£se 
are  well  defined,  and  are  prominent  features  of  the  breed. 


114 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


The  oblong  shape,  full,  broad  and  round  breast,  carried  well  for- 
ward, comes  from  the  oval  sweep  at  the  throat  to  point  of  keel.  This 
fullness  and  prominence  gives  the  length  of  body,  which  is  characteristic 
of  prolific  birds.  The  Light  Brahma  pullet  shown  in  cut  is  in  full 
development  and  devoid  of  fat.  The  curves  of  neck,  back  and  breast  of 
the  Brahma  are  facsimile  in  shape  of  the  outlines  of  the  eggs.  If  an  egg 
was  large  enough,  it  would  fit  in  the  curve  of  the  back  of  a pertect 
Brahma. 

The  Brahma  hen  has  a broad,  oval  skull  ; heavy  eyebrows,  full 
threat,  heavy,  well-arched  beak  ; the  comb  being  smaller  than  the  cock’s. 
It’s  eyes  are  from  pearl  to  red  in  color  and  masculine  in  appearance, 
whi :h  indicates  great  control  and  power.  Prim  shape  of  males  and 
females  are  indications  of  fine  breeds,  and  is  encouraging  for  winners. 
Sacrifice  symmetry  for  color  only  in  the  female,  as  it  is  impossible  to 
obtain  good  shape  from  a poor-shaped  sire.  A sacrifice  of  color  for 
shape  in  females  should  only  be  resorted  to  in  order  to’restore  shape  to 
the  females.  The  science  of  breeding  comes  from  mating  colors  that 
vary  from  the  requirements  of  the  standard  ; to  preserve  the  uniform 
color  in  mating  is  a study  with  charms  ; all  aims  should  be  exerted  in 
careful  mating  and  avoiding  extremes.  The  perfect  color  in  the  male  is 
a white  neck,  striped  with  intense  black,  with  metallic  luster  for  two- 
thirds  of  the  length,  and  covering  three-fifths  of  the  surface  of  the  web. 
The  balance  or  under  color  of  the  feather  may  be  black  and  white, 
resulting  in  white  at  the  quill  end  in  the  upper  part  of  the  neck. 

The  surface  color  of  the  back  should  be  white  ; the  covered  part  of 
the  web  and  fluff  blueish-gray. 

In  the  wings  the  primaries  should  be  black  or  black  and  white, 
although  fine  specimens  should  be  four-fifths  black.  The  secondaries 
sho-ild  be  two-thirds  white  in  the  lower  web,  the  shafts  and  the  larger 
portion  of  the  upper  web  should  be  black.  The  upper  edge  of  the 
secondaries  should  be  laced  with  white,  the  latter  increasing  in  width  as 
the  feathers  comb  upward. 

The  tail  proper,  viewed  from  the  rear  is  black,  with  curly  feathers 
underneath  black  and  white,  shading  into  white  as  they  near  the  fluff. 
The  upper  side  of  the  tail  should  be  black  until  it  reaches  the  quill  end, 
which  is  white,  the  white  extending  up  the  lower  web  from  one  to  one 
and  a half  inches.  The  sickles,  lesser  sickles  and  side  hangers  and  the 
first  set  of  coverts  (either  one  or  two  sets  of  them)  black,  laced  with 
white,  except  white  at  the  extreme  quill  end,  which  is  normal  to  every 
feather  of  the  Brahma. 

The  fluffs  should  have  the  bluish-gray  tinge  of  the  under  color, 
with  outer  extremities  white;  shank  feathers  white,  with  black  mottling 
near  the  feet. 

The  head  of  the  pullet  should  be  white,  the  neck  plumage  a black 
feather  laced  with  white,  the  lacing  narrowing  toward  the  point,  which 
gives  the  black  centre  a more  pointed  form  than  the  outline  of  the 
feather.  The  fluffy  quill  end  of  the  feather  may  fade  to  a white  if  the 
black  retains  a solid,  metallic  lustre  two-thirds  of  the  length  of  the  web. 
The  black  will  .appear  to  cover  also  two-thirds  of  the  surface  of  the  web. 
The  cape  should  be  black  and  white,  but  completely  covered  by  the 
hackle  when  the  bird  stands  with  head  erect.  A wholly  white  web 
should  not  be  judged  defective,  but  females  with  white  capes  seldom 
give  a good  percentage  of  prime  males.  The  back  should  be  pure 
white  in  surface  color,  bluish-gray  in  the  under  fluff.  The  entire 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


115 


feathering  of  the  back  may  be  white  and  the  bird  can  still  be  perfect  as 
a breeder.  The  breast  should  be  pure  white  ; wings,  primaries,  three- 
quarters  black,  with  black  quills,  the  white  of  a clear  shade.  Second- 
aries, two-thirds  of  lower  web  white,  shaft  with  lower  two-thirds  of 

upper  web  black,  the  up- 
per edge  and  about  the 
point  white,  the  lacing 
growing  wider,  the  top 
feathers  being  entirely 
white.  Tail,  viewed 
from  the  under  side, 
black  ; the  upper  side 
black,  except  the  two 
sickle  feathers,  which  may 
be  laced  with  white.  The 
extreme  quill  end  and  up 
the  lower  web  is  white, 
the  white  extending  up 
to  one-half  to  one  and  a 
half  inches.  Tail  coverts 
black,  laced  with  white 
lesser  coverts.  The  fluff 
is  white  ; shanks  and  foot 
feathering  white.  Black, 

DUCKWING  GAMES.  mottled  plumage  should 

not  be  cut. 

Thus  we  have  a perfect  Brahma  and  one  which  brings  joy  to  the 
breeder  and  admiration  from  all  who  see  them.  Their  noble  bearing 
and  fine  appearance  always  calls  praise  from  the  most  conservative 
person.  No  one  can  see  a flock  of  Brahmas  without  admiring  them  ; 
and  from  egg  to  maturity  its  satisfaction  to  the  raiser  is  well  merited. 
It  is  profitable  to  the  farmer  both  for  eggs  and  broilers.  The  breeder 
recognizes  its  value  and  holds  it  as  the  favorite  bird  in  his  yards,  while 
the  fancier  is  fascinated  with  its  supremacy  over  other  varieties.  All 
unite  in  saying  the  Brahma  of  to-day  is  a perfect  bird,  and  its  popular- 
ity never  grows  less. 


The  Dark  Brahma,  while  not  so  popular,  is  equal  to  the 
The  Dark  Light  Brahma  in  many  particulars.  The  Light  Brahma, 
on  account  of  its  color,  makes  a neater  dressed  fowl  for 
Brahma.  the  table,  the  white  pin  feathers  being  less  conspicuous. 

It  is  more  difficult  to  breed  the  Dark  Brahma  to  the 
standard  than  the  Light,  as  the  sharp  and  distinct  pencilings  of  the 
females  and  the  black,  full  breast  of  the  males  are  hard  to  preserve, 
except  in  the  hands  of  a skillful  breeder. 

The  head  and  neck  of  a Dark  Brahma  are  very  similar  to  the  Light 
Brahma’s,  the  head  being  white  and  the  hackle  rather  more  striped  than  in 
the  Light  variety.  The  back  of  cock  is  nearly  white, a little  black  appearing 
here  and  there,  while  black  should  predominate  between  the  shoulders, 
but  is  nearly  hidden  by  the  hackle  flowing  over  it.  The  saddle  feathers 
are,  like  the  hackle,  silvery  white,  striped  with  black,  which  should  be 
distinct.  As  the  feathers  approach  the  tail,  the  stripes  become  broader, 
till  they  merge  into  the  tail  coverts,  which  are  rich,  glossy  green  black, 
with  a margin  or  lacing  of  white.  The  tail  is  pure  black,  with  green 


116 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


gloss.  The  wing  coverts  are  black,  forming  a distinct  black  bar  across 
the  middle  of  the  wings,  while  the  ends  of  the  secondaries  have  a large 
black  spot  on  the  end,  making  the  top  edges  of  the  wing  appear  almost 
black.  The  remainder  of  the  secondaries  are  white  on  the  lower  half 
and  black  on  the  upper.  The  flights  are  all  black,  except  a narrow 
fringe  of  white  on  the  lower  edge.  The  breast  is  black;  the  thighs  and 
fluff  either  black  or  black  very  slightly  mottled  with  white.  The  shank 
feathering  should  correspond  with  the  breast,  being  black,  if  the  latter 
be  black,  and  slightly  mottled  with  white,  if  not.  The  shanks  are  deep 
yellow,  inclining  to  orange,  but  this  rarely  can  be  obtained  except  on  a 
grass  run.  Many  Brahmas  being  reared  in  confinement,  it  will  answer 
if  the  legs  be  moderately  yellow. 

The  color  of  the  hens  sometimes  vary;  it  is  generally  a dingy,  white 
ground,  closely  penciled  with  dark  steel  gray.  This  effect  is  beautiful, 
having  a frosted  or  silvery-gray  appearance,  but  there  should  be  no 
show  of  pure  white  in  the  plumage  except  in  the  margins  of  the 
hackles.  Unless  extreme  care  be  taken  in  mating,  the  hens  are  likely 
to  have  a dingy  color,  and  the  pullets  are  apt  to  have  necks  almost 
white  for  some  distance  down.  These  light  necked  birds  generally 
breed  worse  and  worse,  but  the  evil  may  be  remedied  by  choosing  birds 
for  breeding  whose  heads  are  distinctly  marked.  The  shape  and 
character  of  the  markings  of  the  Dark  Brahma  pullets  also  varies. 
They  should  be  medium  size,  so  that  the  pencilings  can  be  clearly 
discerned  at  a distance  of  twelve  feet.  A great  point  in  regard  to  color 
and  marking  in  Brahma  pullets  is  that  it  should  be  uniform  over  the 
body,  and  the  hackles  should  be  silvery  white,  heavily  striped  with  rich 
black,  and  the  shank  feathering  penciled  same  as  body. 

The  size  of  the  Brahma  and  the  quality  of  the  meat  places  the  fowl 
well  forward  in  the  choice  of  table  breeds.  The  legs  are  particularly 
juicy  and  tender,  which  is  a good  point  in  their  favor. 

The  chicks  are  hardy  and  easily  reared,  and  many  broods  are  raised 
without  the  loss  of  a single  chick.  The  competition  of  fanciers  to  breed 
for  “feather”  has  interfered  with  the  egg  production  of  the  Dark 
Brahma,  but,  as  a whole,  the  result  in  this  line  is  fairly  good,  and  there 
are  many  flocks  which  are  good  layers. 

The  Cochin  family  hold  a prominent  place  in  the  American 
Cochins,  poultry  yard.  They  are,  with  the  Brahmas,  the  heaviest  of  all 
breeds.  The  cocks  weigh  1 1 pounds  and  the  hens  eight  and 
one-half  pounds.  They  are  hardy,  and  in  confinement  will  thrive  and 
prosper.  For  winter  layers  they  are  excellent. 

There  are  four  varieties  of  the  Cochin  class — the  Buff,  Black,  Par- 
tridge and  White. 

We  quote  Mr.  Theodore  Sternberg,  an  authority  on  breeding  the 
Buff  Cochin,  as  follows  : 

“In  breeding  Buffs  it  is  not  so  very  unusual  to  obtain  pullets  with 
clear  wings  and  tails,  but  a male  with  both  wings  and  tail  perfectly 
clear  buff  is  very  rare,  so  rare  indeed  that  such  a one  can  be  classed  as 
an  accident.  One  of  our  oldest  Cochin  fanciers  who  has  bred  them  in 
America  for  30  years  says  he  never  saw  but  one  male  with  absolutely 
clear  wings  and  tails.  The  reason  of  this  is  very  plain.  The  dark  and 
white  blood  is  in  the  fowls,  and  it  is  very  apt  to  crop  out  somewhere. 
If  I were  writing  a standard  for  Buff  Cochin  males  I would  call  for  a 
clear  buff  tail,  for  this  is  a very  great  beauty  and  is  very  noticeable,  but 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


117 


I should  not  call  for  clear  wings.  I should  permit  dark  in  wings  to  go 
uncut  and  not  call  it  a defect.  Why?  Because  the  color  is  in  the 
blood — it  is  absolutely  necessary  that  it  should  be  in  the  blood  or  deep 
brilliant  buff  will  be  lost.  It  will  break  out  somewhere,  and  it  can  be 
confined  to  the  flight  feathers  and  thus  be  concealed  and  not  detract 
from  the  beauty  of  the  plumage.  I have  seen  in  my  life  several  males 
which  filled  this  bill  perfectly.  Gorgeous  buff  plumes  for  the  tail  and 
all  the  dark  out  of  sight  in  the  wing  flights. 

“In  making  standards  for  fowls  those  things  which  are  natural  to  the 
breed  should  be  recognized.  It  is  entirely  wrong  to  make  ideal 
standards  which  conflict  with  nature;  breeders  do  not  create  colors. 
The  best  we  can  do  is  to  some  extent  control  the  location  of  colors.  In 
breeding  Buff  Cochins  the  breeder  will  select  females  as  near  as  possible 
to  the  desired  shade  of  buff,  as  free  as  possible  from  dark  or  white  in 
wing  and  tail,  and  of  as  even  a color  as  can  be.  The  male  for  these 
females  should  not  be  the  proper  exhibition  mate  for  them,  but  should, 
while  of  the  same  general  shade,  be  two  or  more  shades  deeper  in  color. 
Considerable  black  in  wing  is  quite  the  thing,  while  the  tail  should  be 
buff  of  a coppery  lustre. 

“This  mating  should  give  many  correct  pullets  and  some  fine 
cockerels,  but  for  breeding  cockerels  I really  prefer  a pullet  of  almost 
cinnamon  color,  free  from  black  in  hackle,  but  with  black  in  flights; 

some  black  in  tail,  although  usually 
objectionable,  is  no  serious  matter. 
To  such  a pullet  mate  a male  with 
clear  buff  tail  quite  light  in  color 
and  some  dark  in  flights.  I have 
seen  males  with  almost  clear  wings 
and  tails  of  the  brightest  and  most 
delicate  shade  from  such  a mating. 
This  will  be  apt  to  give  you  some 
cockerels  fit  to  use  as  males  in  the 
exhibition  pen,  but  will  not  usually 
be  so  good  as  breeders  at  the  head 
of  a pen  in  the  yard  as  the  darker 
colored  males.  In  short,  as  a rule  I 
regard  exhibition  birds  as  not 
altogether  the  correct  thing  in  the 
breeding  yards  when  mated  together. 
Color  is  far  more  easily  gained  if 
once  lost  than  is  shape.  Shape  is 
not  only  the  chief  element  in  beauty, 
but  it  typifies  the  breed.  As  between 
color  and  shape,  shape  is  the  most 
important,  and  should  have  a much 
higher  value  placed  upon  it  when 
light  brahma  COCK.  judging  Cochins.  Color  can  and 

does  win  in  our  average  shows  over  shape  and  this  ought  not  to  be  so. 
If  I were  called  upon  to  judge  Cochins  I should  endeavor  to  give  the 
honors  to  the  bird  which  is  of  the  best  and  most  typical  shape,  and  if 
there  were  more  than  one  typically  shaped  bird,  then  to  the  one  which 
in  addition  to  typical  shape  had  the  best  color  ; birds  not  of  the  typical 
shape  should  be  passed  over  as  wrongly  entered  and  not  judged  at  all. 
I am  one  of  those  who  believe  that  shape,  like  color,  is  a whole  one 


118 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER  S 


section  to  be  looked  at  as  a whole,  and  that  there  are  but  two  sections 
in  which  it  is  according  to  all  rules  of  art  and  of  beauty  proper  to 
divide  a fowl  for  the  purpose  of  judging,  viz  : shape  and  color. 

“The  heavy  leg  and  foot  feathers  which  are  characteristic  of  the 
true  Buff  need  constant  care  in  the  breeding  pen,  or  they  will  become 
less  and  less  every  year.  The  constant  tendency  is  toward  less  and  less 
feathers  both  in  length  and  in  quantity.  While  what  is  called  a vulture 
hocked  Cochin  is  not  the  exhibition  Cochin,  yet  it  is  the  source  of  all 
profusion  of  feathers.  If  a vulture  hocked  fowl  were  never  bred  from 
in  this  country  at  all,  and  no  well  feathered  birds  imported,  it  would 
not  take  ten  years  before  all  Cochins,  still  pure  in  blood,  would  lose 
their  chief  Cochin  characteristics  and  become  a short  and  hard  feathered 
fowl,  with  only  now  and  then  a trace  of  feathers  on  the  legs,  and  our 
magnificent  Cochins  would  be  no  more.  For  this  reason,  and  no  other, 
I favor  the  removal  of  the  vulture  hock  disqualification  from  the  Stand- 
ard, and  would  treat  it  as  a defect  when  judging.’ 

The  Partridge  Cochin  comes  next  in  popularity  to  the  Buff.  The 
head  of  the  Partridge  Cochin  cock  is  rich  orange  red,  with  a distinct 
black  stripe  down  the  middle  of  each  feather.  The  color  of  the  back, 
shoulder  coverts  and  wing  bow  is  a darker  shade  than  the  hackle,  and 
the  lower  wing  coverts  are  glossy  black,  with  blue  and  green  reflections. 
The  primaries  are  black,  with  edging  of  rich  brown  on  the  lower  edge  ; 
the  secondaries  are  black  on  the  end,  forming  a black  edge  on  the  upper 
side  of  the  wing  butts,  and  the  bay  on  the  outer  edges,  and  black  on  the 
inner.  The  breast,  thighs,  under  parts,  tail  and  leg  feathers  are  rich 
black.  The  shanks  are  dusky  yellow,  and  heavily  feathered  down  the 
outer  sides  with  black  or  brownish  feathers.  Single  comb,  yellow  beak, 
clear  bay  eye,  and  bright  red  lace  are  the  features  of  the  head.  The 
plumage  is  light  brown,  each  feather  being  penciled  with  dark  brown  ; 
the  hackle  is  a rich  gold  color,  striped  down  the  middle  with  black. 

The  general  favor  in  which  this  breed  is  held  is  well 
Langshans.  deserved.  Among  breeders  and  fanciers  alike,  it  meets 
with  approval  as  an  all  purpose  bird,  and  one  that  is  profit- 
able to  the  keeper. 

The  Langshans  are  gentle  in  disposition,  and  bear  confinement  very 
well.  They  are  hardy  and  remarkably  free  from  disease,  and  the  chicks 
grow  very  rapidly.  They  are  more  active  than  the  other  Asiatics,  and 
the  pullets  commence  laying  at  an  early  age,  and  are  excellent  winter 
layers.  They  lay  a beautiful  colored  egg,  often  spotted  or  speckled,  of 
good  size  and  a delicious,  rich  flavor.  They  are  classed  among  the 
largest  breeds,  the  cocks  weighing  ten  and  the  hens  seven  pounds.  Their 
fine  form  and  stately  carriage  meets  with  admiration  from  all,  and  as  a table 
fowl  there  are  few  better,  the  meat  being  tender,  with  a splendid  flavor. 

There  are  two  classes  of  the  Langshan  fowl — the  Black  and  the 
White — one  with  a rich  glossy  metallic  black  plumage,  with  greenish 
reflections,  and  the  other  a pure  and  spotless  white  throughout.  They 
have  single  combs,  well  rounded  wattles,  clear  hazel  eyes,  which  have  an 
intelligent  look,  and  a medium  sized,  rather  broad  head.  The  neck  is 
well  arched,  with  abundant  hackle,  flowing  well  over  the  shoulders;  back 
is  broad  and  breast  round  and  full.  The  tail  is  very  characteristic  in 
the  Langshan  cock  ; it  is  large  and  carried  well  up,  with  long  flowing 
sickles  extending  well  beyond  the  tail;  the  coverts  are  abundant  and 
long.  The  shanks  are  well  feathered  down  the  outer  sides. 


There  is  no  doubt  but  that  the  Leghorn  family  is  the  most 
Leghorns,  popular  egg  breed  in  America  to-day.  Look  where  you  will, 
traces  of  this  bird  are  found  in  divers  ways,  from  the  full- 
blooded  variety  to  the  Leghorn  admixture  of  the  dunghill  fowl.  This 
evidence  of  popularity  is  traceable  to  their  prolific  qualities  as  layers, 
and  as  the  fact  is  established  that  the  greatest  profit  of  the  poultryman 
is  in  the  egg  basket,  little  surprise,  if  any,  is  occasioned  by  the  universal 
popularity  the  Leghorn  family  enjoys. 

For  eggs  the  Leghorn  is  correctly  placed  at  the  head  of  the  list,  and 
there  is  no  especial  difference  in  the  prolificacy  of  the  various  types. 
Their  non-sitting  qualities  further  their  laying  qualities.  Early  hatched 
birds  will  begin  laying  in  September  or  early  October,  and  will  lay 
through  the  fall  and  entire  winter,  if  provided  with  moderately  warm 
quarters.  On  this  point  may  be  reckoned  the  increase  of  profits  for  the 
year  ; when  eggs  are  high,  it  pays  to  have  hens  lay.  As  winter  layers, 
under  the  usual  methods  of  housing,  they  are  not  considered  the  best ; 
but  when  favorable  conditions  are  provided  them — that  is,  a warm  house 
well  protected  from  cold  and  wet — they  will  equal,  if  not  surpass,  any 
other  breed. 

Many  suppose  Leghorns  do  better  when  hatched  late,  because  of 
their  early  maturing  qualities.  This  is  an  erroneous  supposition  and 
should  be  corrected  ; pullets  hatched  late  seldom  lay  before  the  following 
spring.  April  hatched  birds  will  begin  laying  before  cold  weather  sets 
in,  and  will  continue  through  the  entire  season  if  made  comfortable. 

As  a table  fowl  they  are  fair.  While  their  small  size  may  interfere 
with  their  classification  as  strictly  table  fowls,  yet  they  may  be  con- 
sidered profitable  for  market,  as  many  people  prefer  two  small  fowls  to 
one  large  one.  Being  active,  good  foragers  and  hardy,  they  can  often  be 
grown  with  less  care  and  food  than  many  of  the  larger  breeds  The 
flesh  of  the  Leghorn  is  fine  grained  and  of  good  flavor. 

The  Leghorn  chicks  will  grow  as  rapidly  as  the  larger  breeds  up  to 
ten  weeks  old,  and  make  plump  broilers. 

There  are  six  varieties  of  the  Leghorn  type — the  Brown,  White, 
Black,  Buff,  Dominique  and  Silver  Duckwing. 

“In  mating  Brown  Leghorns,”  says  Mr.  J.  Forsyth,  Owego,  N.  Y., 
“to  produce  exhibition  birds,  select  a cockerel  with  a medium  sized 
comb,  fine  in  texture,  firmly  set  upon  the  head,  with  five  regular  and 
even  serrations,  free  from  wrinkles  at  the  beak;  with  large,  solid  white 
ear  lobes,  free  from  folds  hackle,  deep,  rich  bay,  penciled  with  fine, 
intensely  black  stripe  down  the  center  of  each  feather,  ending  in  sharp 
points;  with  dark  under  color,  for  white  is  a bad  defect  in  otherwise 
good  birds,  and  dark  under  color  is  one  of  the  best  precautions  against 
its  appearance;  of  standard  figure,  and  in  all  other  respects  a standard 
bird.  Place  him  with  hens  that  were  fine  birds  as  pullets,  and  have 
preserved  their  characteristics  after  moulting,  having  a fine  salmon 
breast,  nice,  rich  golden  hackle,  with  broad  black  stripe;  well*  penciled 


120 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


back;  wings  free  from  any  tinge  of  red;  fine,  solid  white  earlobes,  and 
combs  that  are  rather  above  medium  size.  If  the  mating  be  made  for 
pullets,  the  combs  should  fall  gracefully  to  one  side;  if  for  cockerels,  the 
combs  should  be  semi-erect — that  is,  rising  some  distance  above  the 
head  before  beginning  to  turn  over;  even  hens  with  perfectly  erect 
combs  are  no  disadvantage,  as  the  cockerels  bred  from  them  will  likely 
possess  combs  that  are  strong  at  the  base  and  stand  perfectly  erect,  with 
no  inclination  to  lop  to  either  side.  This  mating  produces  better 
exhibition  birds  than  those  bred  from  hens  whose  combs  fold  smoothly 
from  the  head.  Such  hens,  too,  will  produce  a fair  percentage  of  good- 
combed  cockerels  when  mated  with  a male  that  has  a weak  comb.  The. 
pullets  from  such  hens,  however,  will  likely  inherit  their  characteristics, 
unless  the  cockerel  should  counteract  it  by  having  a comb  which  is  weak 
at  the  base. 


“Females  having  very  dark  breasts,  hackles  which  are  smutty,  dark 
brown  or  red  in  the  wings,  and  generally  very  dark  in  color,  may  be 
mated  to  a male  with  a light  bay  hackle,  the  stripe  of  which  is  very 
narrow,  and  in  color  black  or  even  dark  brown,  and  is  generally  lighter 
in  color  than  is  required  by  the  Leghorn  standard. 

“Females  having  a very  light  salmon  colored  breast,  narrow  stripe 
in  the  hackle,  and  otherwise  present  a faded  appearance,  may  be  mated 
to  a male  having  a very  dark  hackle,  with  broad  black  stripe,  very  dark 
brown  or  red  on  back,  and  throughout  a very  dark  bird. 

“From  the  two  last-named  matings  not  a few  good  chicks  will  be 
produced*  but  the  first  mating  is  the  one  to  be  relied  on  where  birds  can 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


121 


be  had  to  make  it.  Not  only  will  a larger  percentage  of  standard  birds 
result  therefrom,  but  the  chicks  will  be  worth  more  for  breeding  stock 
on  account  of  the  law'  of  reversion.  Such  breeding  stock,  if  reversion 
takes  place,  produce  admirable  chicks,  whereas,  even  finely  marked 
chicks  produced  from  the  mating  of  the  extremes  of  color,  are  liable  to 
reproduce  those  extremes  in  their  offspring.” 

In  the  Browns  and  Whites  there  are  two  sub-classes,  which  are 
distinguished  by  their  single  and  rose  combs;  in  the  balance  of  the 
family  the  combs  are  single. 

Among  the  Leghorn  class  the  White  variety  is  a close  rival  with  the 
Brown  for  first  choice.  Mr.  Joseph  Wallace,  in  speaking  of  the  Whites, 
says: 

“It  is  generally  conceded  that  the  White  Leghorns  hold  an  advanced 
position  for  egg  production.  This  is  a well  known  fact  to  those  who 
keep  Leghorns,  and  that  have  experimented  with  other  breeds.  No 
other  race  of  domestic  fowls  has  given  such  an  egg  producing  record  ; 
no  fault  can  be  found  with  their  utility  and  beauty,  though  some  of  their 
admirers  would  wish  they  were  larger  in  body,  so  as  to  complete  their 
adaptation  to  table  use  and  bring  them  in  competition  with  Dominiques 
and  the  smaller  sized  Plymouth  Rocks  and  Wyandottes.  This  is  out  of 
the  question,  if  their  natural  prolificacy  is  to  be  retained.  Selection  of 
the  best  layers  among  the  largest,  best  shaped  and  most  robust 
specimens  year  after  year  would  gradually  increase  their  size,  but  the 
moment  we  suddenly  increase  the  size  of  a breed  beyond  its  natural 
capacity  by  a cross  or  overgrown  specimens,  it  is  at  the  expense  of  egg 
production,  vivacity,  and  other  natural  leading  characteristics. 

“The  Leghorn  holds  the  same  rank  among  poultry  that  the  Jersey 
holds  among  cows.  The  question  of  profit  has  been  settled  in  favor  of 
egg  producing  breeds.  There  are  scores  of  Leghorn  breeders  among 
farmers  and  cottagers  who  aver  that  they  can  raise  fifty  Leghorns  as 
cheaply  as  thirty  Asiatics,  in  the  matter  of  food.  The  Leghorns  are  so 
lively  that  they  will  pick  up  a good  part  of  their  living  during  the  year 
if  they  have  liberty.  They  are  the  most  active  and  industrious  foragers 
known;  they  are  easy  to  rear,  feather  quickly,  lay  early,  and  turn  food 
into  nice  fresh  eggs.  No  breed  matures  so  early  in  life;  the  pullets 
often  begin  to  lay  when  they  reach  their  fourth  month,  and  the  cockerels 
crow  and  make  love  at  two  months  old. 

“All  the  Leghorn  varieties  should  possess  large  red  combs  and 
wattles;  white  or  cream  colored  earlobes;  preference  is  given  to  a comb 
the  tips  of  which  describe  an  arch;  the  wattles  pendulous,  and  if  the 
edge  folds  a little  it  is  preferable;  earlobes  should  be  smooth  and  even, 
and  lie  flat  on  the  face;  not  kidney  shaped  nor  too  pointed,  but  the 
lower  end  maintaining  gradual  width  toward  the  bottom.  The  Leghorn 
is  a proud,  shy,  yet  lively  and  attractive  bird.  The  pleasing  contrast 
between  their  pure  white  plumage,  large  facial  appendages  and  pendent 
white  earlobes  give  to  the  head  a jaunty  and  coquettish  ‘set  off.’ 
Leghorns  must  be  warmly  housed  in  winter  to  save  their  combs  and 
wattles.  Those  who  breed  for  market  should  keep  a flock  of  Leghorns 
for  eggs.  We  cannot  unite  great  egg  producing  qualities  with  prime 
table  qualities  in  the  same  breed,  that  is,  one  breed  cannot  be  pre- 
‘eminent  in  both  and  at  the  same  time  remarkably  handsome.” 

The  Black  Leghorn  is  a popular  bird;  its  rich,  glossy  black 
plumage  makes  it  a desirable  bird  for  the  poultry  yard.  The  only 


122 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


objection  that  can  be  raised  against  the  bird  is  the  dark  pin  feathers, 
which,  to  some,  are  objectionable  for  table  fowls,  but  aside  from  this  the 
bird  is  in  every  respect  the  equal  of  the  others. 

The  Dominique  variety  does  not  claim  much  favor.  The  color  of 
its  plumage  is  like  that  of  the  Barred  Plymouth  Rock  and  American 
Dominique,  from  which  it  derives  its  name.  No  better  reason  can  be 
offered  than  that  the  Dominique  has  suffered,  from  the  fancy  point  of 
view,  from  the  popularity  of  the  Barred  Plymouth  Rock,  which  displays 
the  grandeur  of  the  silvery  white  plumage  to  a better  advantage  than 
any  other  variety  of  this  color  of  plumage. 

The  mania  for  Buffs  is  on  the  increase  at  this  period,  and  this  fact 
places  the  Buff  Leghorn  in  great  demand  from  an  artistic  or  fancier’s 
point  of  view.  The  clear,  rich'  tones  of  buff  are  pleasing  to  the  eye,  and 
form  a semi-tone  between  the  extremes  of  light  and  dark  feathers. 

The  contrast  of  colors  is  noticeable  in  the  Duckwing  Leghorn.  In 
this  bird  the  fancier  finds  a pretty  effect  of  black  and  silvery  white 
plumage.  For  some  unknown  reasons  they  are  not  as  generally  bred  as 
the  others  of  their  class,  but  they  ought  to  prove  a very  popular  breed 
when  better  known. 

The  second  of  the  Mediterranean  class  is  the  Minorcas. 
Minorcas.  These  fowls,  to  all  appearances,  are  nearly  the  exact  counter- 
part of  the  Leghorns.  There  are,  however,  differences 
between  the  two.  The  Minorca  is  larger  in  size,  the  standard  weight  for 
cocks  being  eight  pounds  and  for  hens  six  and  one-half  pounds.  In 
shape  the  Minorca  resembles  the  Dorking,  but  is  not  so  square  as  the 
latter.  The  shanks  of  the  Black  Minorca  are  dark  slate  or  nearly  black, 
while  the  White  variety  has  white  or  pinkish  shanks.  The  shanks  of  the 
Leghorn  are  yellow.  Another  distinguishing  mark  between  the  two 
breeds  is  the  comb,  the  comb  of  the  Minorca  being  much  larger  than 
that  of  the  Leghorn,  though  similar  in  shape  and  general  appearance. 

The  comparison  between  the  two  is  made  because  of  the  similarity 
of  the  breeds,  and  to  trace  in  the  one  the  many  excellent  qualities  of  the 
other. 

The  Minorcas  are  placed  next  to  the  Leghorns  in  prolificacy  of  egg 
production  above  all  others.  Their  eggs  are  larger  than  the  Leghorn, 
five  having  been  known  to  weigh  a pound.  The  two  varieties  of 
Minorcas — the  Black  and  the  White — are  the  same  in  plumage  as  the 
Black  and  White  Leghorns. 

The  Andalusian  is  a handsome  fowl,  and  is  credited 
Andalusians,  by  some  the  hardiest  of  the  Spanish  breeds.  The 
plumage  is  slaty  blue,  in  many  specimens  slightly  laced 
with  a darker  shade,  but  the  neck,  hackle  and  tail  feathers  are  glossy 
black,  ears  white,  and  face  red  as  in  the  Minorcas.  The  Andalusian 
chicks  are  hardy,  and  feather  rapidly  and  well. 

This  breed  should  be  more  popular  than  it  is,  being  very  good 
layers  of  large  white  eggs.  They,  like  the  others  of  their  class,  are  very 
prolific  layers,  and  the  eggs  are  considered  of  superior  flavor. 

As  a table  fowl,  in  this  country  they  are  not  sought  after,  owing  to 
the  sentiment  against  white  skin  and  blue  shanks.  English  and  French 
poultrymen  admire  these  qualities  in  the  bird,  and  with  them  th^ 
Andalusian  appears  to  be  well  thought  of. 

As  a fancier’s  fowl  they  have  never  attained  the  success  wished  for 
them,  owing  to  the  uncertainty  in  breeding  true  to  color. 


POULTRY  BOOK 


123 


In  general  contour  of  body  and  appearance  of  head  they  resemble 
the  Leghoins  and  Minorcas,  having  a large  single  comb,  bright  red 
wattles,  and  white  earlobes. 

The  Black  Spanish  is  one  of  the  oldest  varieties  of 
Black  poultry,  and  is  a descendant  from  the  wild  Gallus.  Years 
before  many  of  our  now  popular  breeds  existed,  this  breed 
Spanish,  was  established,  and  its  offspring  are  now  scattered  to  the 
four  quarters  of  the  globe.  The  name  Spanish  has  been 
linked  with  domestication  from  time  immemorial,  and  few  are  there, 
indeed,  who  have  heard  the  name  of  poultry  but  can  connect  the  name 
of  Spanish  with  it. 

In  speaking  of  this  well  known  fowl,  Mr.  H.  D.  Kendal  says: 

“There  is  nothing  that  true  fanciers  so  much  admire  as  good  blood. 
And  here  we  find  it  pure,  unalloyed  for  hundreds  of  years,  a lineage  as 
old  as  the  proudest  Hidalgo  of  his  native  Spain  can  boast,  and  above  all 
of  such  prepotent  force  that  their  great  merits  and  characteristic  beauty 
have  descended  to  us  through  generation  and  generation. 

“In  every  feature  is  this  breeding  shown.  Their  haughty  bearing, 
large  red  comb  and  wattles,  the  white  face  and  lobes,  peculiar  to  the 
variety,  contrasting  with  their  glossy  black  plumage,  render  them  the 
most  striking  of  domestic  fowls,  and  we  may  truly  add  the  most  dis- 
tinctively thoroughbred.  To  have  appealed  so  far  to  the  fancier’s  senti- 
ment is  enough  to  assure  a careful  hearing  from  those  unfamiliar  with 
the  practical  excellence  of  this  breed. 

‘ White-faced  Black  Spanish  have  long  been  celebrated  for  excep- 
tional laying  qualities.  The  oldest  of  the  non-sitfiing  varieties,  they  still 
maintain  an  unsurpassed  record — a record  which,  in  consideration  of 
size  and  quality  with  numbers,  we  might  almost  have  pronounced  un- 
equalled. Pullets  are  early  layers,  averaging  170  to  190  eggs  per  year, 
the  hens  beginning  somewhat  later  after  moulting,  but  compensating  for 
any  loss  of  quantity  by  the  increased  size  of  the  egg,  while  hens  and 
pullets  alike  are  well  above  the  average  winter  production.  To  pass 
without  comment  the  appearance  of  these  eggs,  large,  white,  and,  above 
all,  attractive,  would  leave  unnoticed  one  of  the  strongest  claims  to  popu- 
lar favor. 

“It  is  perhaps  a surprising  position  to  assume  that  the  neglected  Black 
Spanish  is  one  of  our  best  general  purpose  breeds,  yet  in  view  of  these 
facts,  such  must  be  our  opinion.  I would  not  be  understood  as  making 
this  claim  for  other  than  the  general  fancier’s  or  family  purpose.  Pre- 
eminently an  egg-producing  variety,  they  are  less  desirable  in  size,  form 
and  early  maturity  for  market  purposes  than  other  breeds  bred  for  that 
end,  and  as  it  is  far  better  business  to  accept  than  oppose  popular  preju- 
dice, large  market  producers  should  certainly  raise  yellow-legged  and 
yellow-skinned  birds. 

“To  secure  excessive  face  development,  vigor  and  utility  have  in 
many  cases  been  sacrificed,  and  to  this  mistaken  course  may  justly  be 
laid  the  largely  undeserved  reputation  for  delicacy  and  unproductiveness, 
that  has  all  but  wrecked  the  once  great  popularity  of  this  breed.  The 
sooner  breeders  realize  that  this  exaggerated  development  of  one  feature 
is  a detriment  to  the  whole,  and  that  the  production  of  such  unevenly 
balanced  monstrosities  is  a cause  for  regret  rather  than  boast,  the  better 
for  the  Spanish  interest  in  particular,  and  the  entire  poultry  cause  in 
general.  From  my  own  experience,  I can  affirm  that  with  judicious  care 


124 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


and  mating,  Black  Spanish  will  thrive  with  the  same  treatment  required 
to  assure  success  with  any  variety  and  with  the  protection  necessary  for 
any  large  combed  birds  in  extreme  cold  weather. 

“With  the  quick  recognition  of  genuine  merit,  characteristic  of 
American  fanciers,  there  can  be  no  doubt  that  a lack  of  accurate  inform- 
ation and  experience  alone  stands  between  this  noble  old  breed  and 
complete  restoration  to  its  rightful  place  in  poultry  interests,  and  that 
place  is  in  the  front  rank.” 


WHITE,  BEARDED  GOLDEN,  BEARDED  SILVER, 
BEARDED  WHITE,  BUFF 


LAGED. 


The  Polish  is  an  old  breed  of  fowls,  and  may  be  traced  to  the  time 
of  Ulysses  Aldrooandi,  a Bolognese  gentleman,  who  was  born  in  1527 
and  died  in  1605.  He  was  an  enthusiastic  student  of  natural  history, 
and  devoted  his  time  and  means  to  collecting  specimens  and  the 
payment  of  artists,  engravers  and  publishers.  During  his  life  he 
published  three  folio  volumes  on  birds.  Among  the  varieties  of  fowls 
described  by  him  was  the  “Wooly  fowl,”  similar  to  the  “Silky  fowl”  of 
to-day;  the  “Frizzled  fowl,”  the  “Persian  fowl,”  the  “Turkish,”  the 
Hamburgs,  the  “Feathered-legged  fowl,”  the  “Dwarf,”  a crested  breed 
of  various  colors;  the  “Crested  fowl,”  a white  variety  with  a lark’s  crest; 
the  “Padnan,”  or  “Patavinian  fowl.”  It  is  to  the  last  that  we  trace  the 
Polish  fowl. 

“There  are  a kind  of  gallinaceous  birds,”  he  says,  “larger  than  ours, 
which  are  commonly  called  Patavinians.  The  cock  is  exceedingly 
beautiful,  being  richly  decorated  with  five  colors,  viz , black,  white, 
green,  red  and  ochre;  the  body  black,  the  neck  covered  with  white 
feathers,  and  the  wings  and  the  back  partly  black  and  partly  green;  the 
tail  of  the  same  hue,  but  the  roots  of  the  feathers  whitish,  and  some  of 
the  flight  feathers  also  white.  The  eyes  are  surrounded  with  red  circles, 
the  comb  is  very  small,  the  bill  and  feet  yellow,  and  the  head  is  adorned 
with  a beautiful  crest.  In  the  hen  there  is  no  white,  except  the  white 
pellicle  at  the  opening  of  the  ears.  She  is  altogether  of  a greenish-black 
•color,  with  yellow  feet,  and  a very  small  comb,  slightly  tinged  with  red.” 

The  tracing  of  a breed  to  its  origin  only  affords  a partial  solution  of 
the  problem,  yet  we  may  accept  the  above  quotations  as  an  authority  on 
the  antecedents  of  the  beautiful  family  of  Polish  which  we  have  to-day. 

Mr.  Tegetmeir  says:  “There  can  be  but  little  doubt  that  these  birds 
(Paduans  or  Aldrovandus)  were  the  progenitors  of  the  present  breed 
known  as  the  Polands  or  Polish  fowls.” 

He  further  declares  that  there  is  little  or  nothing  known  of  the 
origin  of  the  Polish,  and  the  supposition  that  they  are  descendants  of  the 
great  St.  Jago  Cock  is  very  unsatisfactory,  “as  there  are  more  than  twenty 
places  in  different  quarters  of  the  globe  termed  St.  Jago.” 

The  Poultry  World  in  commenting  on  the  subject,  says:  “While  we 
may  accept  the  Paduan  fowls  described  by  Aldrovandus,  despite  some 
not  inconsiderable  difference  between  them  and  the  Polish  fowls  of  the 
present  day,  as  the  probable  ancestors  of  the  beautiful  crested  varieties 
grouped  together  under  the  title  of  Polish,  we  need  to  receive  with 
great  care  the  supposition  of  early  naturalists,  like  Cuvier,  Buffon  and 
Temminck,  that  the  Paduan  is  descended  from  the  Gallus  giganteus,  now 
supposed  to  have  been  the  Malay,  and  not  a wild  species.  The  Polish 
fowls,  it  is  true,  may  trace  their  ancestry  back  through  the  Paduan  to 
the  Malay  and  thence  to  the  Gallus  Bankiva , but  we  have  not  the 


126 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


evidence  to  enable  us  to  state  positively  that  such  is  the  fact.  We  have 
given  the  authorities,  and  leave  the  reader  to  cautiously  draw  his  own 
inferences  from  them. 

“But  can  we  not  learn  something  of  the  origin  of  these  fowls  from 
their  name  ? May  we  not,  at  least,  learn  the  country  from  which  the 
English  speaking  people  derived  them  ? They  are  called  Polish,  and 
thirty  years  ago  were  commonly  called  Polands.  Does  not  that  indicate 
that  they  came  from  Poland?  It  would  at  first  seem  so,  and  no  doubt 
many  have  so  believed,  but  we  are  not  to  forget  that  the  Hamburgs  were 
not  a native  of  that  port  whose  name  they  bear,  that  the  Cochin  Chinas 
didn’t  come  from  Cochin  China  at  all,  and  that  the  Brahma  Pootras 
were  not  brought  from  the  banks  of  that  Indian  river.  Names  are  often 
misleading,  and  it  is  so  in  the  case  of  the  Polands  or  Polish.  It  is 
certain  that  they  have  no  connection  with  the  kingdom  of  Poland.  It  is 
not  likely  that  they  were  imported  from  that  country,  but  probably  from 
Holland,  for  Mr.  Beldon  observes:  Tn  many  pictures  by  the  old  masters 
— and  especially  those  by  Dutch  and  Flemish  painters — the  fowls 
depicted  in  their  rural  scenes  are  birds  which,  though  not  bred  to  feather 
as  we  breed  them  now,  are  unquestionably  Polish  fowls  in  all  essential 
respects.’ 

“The  general  characteristics  of  the  Polish  are  those  of  a medium- 
sized fowl,  slightly  larger  than  the  Hamburgs  ; with  a full  round  breast, 
carried  well  forward  ; with  the  neck  in  the  cock  carried  back,  somewhat 
like  that  of  a Fantail  pigeon,  and  beautifully  * arched  ; with  a perfectly 
straight  back,  broad  at  the  shoulders  and  narrowing  rapidly  to  the  tail  ; 
with  large  and  closely-folded  wings  ; with  a large,  well-expanded,  up- 
right tail,  and  in  the  cock  furnished  with  an  abundance  of  tail  coverts 
and  sickle  feathers  ; with  shanks  of  a bluish  color,  in  all  varieties  but  the 
White-crested  Black,  in  which  they  are  of  dark  slate  or  nearly  black 
color  ; and  above  all  with  a large  crest  and  peculiar  comb.  The  crest 
of  the  cock  is  composed  of  narrow  feathers,  something  like  those  which 
form  the  hackle  of  the  neck  and  saddle.  They  should  rise  well  in  front, 
so  as  not  to  obstruct  the  sight,  and  fall  over  to  the  back  and  sides  in  a 
flowing,  even  mass.  If  they  fall  forward,  which  is  sometimes  the  case, 
they  both  obstruct  the  sight  and  are  liable  to  get  wet  when  the  bird 
drinks.  Such  a crest,  also,  is  hollow  in  the  center,  and  loses  much  of  its 
beauty.  The  crest  of  the  hen  is  formed  of  feathers  growing  upward  and 
turning  in  at  the  extremities,  and  should  be  large  and  globular  in  form, 
and  compact  in  character,  with  no  sign  of  parting.  The  larger  the  crest, 
the  better,  provided  it  is  of  good  shape,  but  a close,  compact,  well-formed 
crest  is  to  be  preferred  to  one  that  is  larger  but  of  loose  texture  and 
falling  in  all  directions.  The  comb  is  peculiar  and  beloygs  to  the  class 
of  combs  which,  from  a fancied  resemblance  to  a leaf,  are  designated 
leaf-combs.  It  is  far  better  described,  however,  as  two  fleshy  horns 
diverging  like  the  letter  V,  the  upper  extremities  retreating  into  the 
crest.  The  smaller  the  comb,  the  better,  and  if  wholly  wanting,  except 
when  removed  by  design  or  accident,  it  is  not  regarded  as  a disquali- 
fication.’’ 

The  Polish  fowls  are  divided  into  two  classes,  the  Bearded  and  Un- 
bearded, the  former  being  more  popular. 

The  Polish  fowl  is  a very  useful  bird  for  the  breeder  and  the  fancier. 
Aside  from  their  strange  beauty,  they  are  considered  a general  purpose 
fowl.  Col.  R.  J.  Hamilton,  the  veteran  breeder  of  Polish  fowls  gives  the 
qualities  of  the  bird  as  follows  : 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


127 


“They  are  hardy,  good  layers  and  excellent  fowls  for  the  table. 
They  are  of  medium  size,  slightly  larger  than  the  Hamburgs,  with  a full 
round  breast,  carried  well  forward.  Their  backs  are  perfectly  straight, 
broad  at  the  shoulders  and  narrowing  at  the  tail,  which  is  upright  and 
well  expanded.  The  crest  of  the  cock  is  composed  of  narrow  feathers 
something  like  those  which  form  the  hackle  of  the  neck  and  saddle. 
These  should  rise  well  in  front,  so  as  not  to  obstruct  the  sight,  and  fall 
over  the  backs  and  sides  in  a flowing  mass.  The  crest  of  the  hen  is 
formed  of  feathers  growing  upward  and  turning  in  at  the  extremities, 
and  should  be  large  and  globular  in  form  and  compact  in  character, 
with  no  sign  of  parting.  In  color  the  Black  Polish  is  a deep  black 
throughout,  except  in  the  crest,  which  is  pure  white.  The  combs  are 
small  and  are  V shaped,  the  upper  part  retreating  into  the  crest.” 
Continuing,  the  Colonel  says:  “The  White  Crested  Bearded  Polish, 
though  of  uniform  white  plumage  throughout,  have  the  same  erect  and 
strutting  carriage  which  characterizes  the  Polish  class.  The  color  makes 
them  attractive,  and  in  appearance  they  are  as  neat  and  aristocratic  as 
any  fowls  ever  placed  on  exhibition.  They  attract  attention  wherever 
shown,  and  are  favorites  with  ladies.  Their  plumage  is  pure  and  white 
as  snow,  which  necessitates  great  care  and  attention  to  preserve  beauty. 
They  must  be  kept  perfectly  dry  and  clean,  as  their  beauty  depends 
upon  the  delicacy  of  their  plumage  and  the  cleanliness  of  their 
appearance.  Attention  must  be  given  to  the  preservation  of  their  beard 
and  crest,  and  a covered  water  fountain  should  be  provided  for  them. 
To  those  persons  who  desire  to  keep  fowls  and  have  only  a limited  place 
for  them,  this  breed  is  especially  adapted.  They  will  make  nice  pets 
under  proper  treatment,  and  will  in  a short  time  become  the  admiration 
of  the  entire  household.  They  lay  well  under  favorable  conditions,  but 
are  non-sitters.  The  chicks  require  attention  and  care,  the  dryness  of 
the  coop  being  the  greatest  importance.  If  it  is  your  purpose  to  keep 
pets,  no  fowl  is  better  suited  for  that  purpose  than  this  breed,  but  the 
success  of  the  breeder  or  fancier  depends  largely  on  his  attention  to 
their  wants.” 


WHITE  LEGHORN  HEN. 


HAMBURGS,  I^ED  GAPS,  GAMPINES. 


The  Hamburgs  are  deserving  of  special  attention  both  from  fanciers 
and  from  practical  poultrymen.  The  Spangled  variety  is  given  the 
preference,  both  for  its  beauty  and  hardiness.  They  have  also  the  merit 
— unlike  the  Penciled  variety,  which  is  purely  ornamental — of  being 
economical  fowls  to  keep,  for  they  are  prolific  layers,  great  foragers,  and 
with  the  Black  Hamburgs  easily  stand  at  the  head  for  fecundity.  Were 
it  not  that  their  eggs  are  rather  small  in  size  they  would  be  far  more 
popular  with  those  who  have  produce  for  sale,  but  at  present  their  eggs 
are,  as  a rule,  rather  below  the  requirements  of  the  market.  So  far  as 
the  breeder  is  concerned,  they  are  the  most  economical  fowl,  for  they  are 
very  small  eaters  and  hence  they  are  most  profitable  to  keep.  By  the 
exercise  of  a little  care  in  selection  of  breeding  stock,  the  size  of  the  eggs 
could  be  enlarged.  There  are  some  which  lay  larger  eggs  than  others, 
and  if  more  attention  were  given  to  the  size  of  eggs  it  could  soon  be 
remedied. 

There  are  now  six  varieties — the  Silver  Spangled,  Golden  Spangled, 
Silver  and  Golden  Penciled,  and  the  Black  and  White. 

The  Silver  Spangled  seems  to  be  the  favorite  among  fanciers.  Their 
proud  carriage,  their  royal  decoration,  and  graceful  and  symmetrical 
forms,  command  attention  in  the  show  room  or  on  the  lawn  in  the 
breeder’s  yard.  They  are  non-sitters,  prolific  layers,  small  feeders,  fair 
size  and  most  delicious  table  fowls.  As  chicks  they  mature  early,  and 
the  pullets  begin  to  lay  when  six  months  old. 

The  Silver  Spangled  is  the  best  known  breed  in  the  land.  To  the 
Yorkshires  and  Lancashires  they  owe  their  present  state  of  perfection, 
although  American  breeders  have  done  more  in  twenty  years  to  perfect 
their  combs,  earlobes  and  faces  than  the  English  fanciers  have  been  able 
to  accomplish  in  double  that  time.  The  plumage  is  English,  and  to 
English  fanciers  is  due  the  credit  of  perfecting  their  beautiful  markings. 
When  poultry  shows  first  came  into  fashion,  their  “moon  eyes”  received 
the  largest  share  of  awards  at  all  exhibitions,  until  it  came  to  be 
considered  utter  foolishness  to  show  any  fowl  against  them.  They 
enjoyed  this  exalted  position  for  several  years,  so  that  the  Hamburg  has 
a long  record. 

The  breeders  of  Hamburgs  universally  adopt  the  following  as  a 
standard  for  the  breed:  Comb  square  at  front,  tapering  nicely  into  a 
long  spike,  full  of  points,  by  no  means  plain,  firmly  and  evenly  set  on 
the  head;  face  red;  earlobes  moderate  size,  round  as  possible,  and  clear 
white;  legs  leaden  blue;  carriage  graceful;  plumage  very  profuse. 

Color — Cocks,  Silver  Spangled:  Clear  silvery  white  ground,  every 
feather  tipped  or  spangled,  the  breast  as  bold  as  possible,  but  showing 
the  spangle,  the  bars  of  the  wing  regular  and  bold;  neck,  back  and 
saddle  nicely  tipped;  bow  well  marked  (by  no  means  cloudy,  brown  or 
brassy);  back  as  green  as  possible.  Golden  Spangled:  Color  very  black 
and  rich,  the  back  glossy  green;  the  neck,  back  and  saddle  nicely 
striped;  bow  of  wing  well  marked. 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


129 


Hens — Silver  Spangled:  The  white  clear  and  silvery;  the  spangles 
large,  green  as  possible,  distinct  and  clear.  Golden  Spangled:  Ground 
rich,  clear  spangles,  large  and  distinct. 

These  fowls  are  among  the  oldest  we  have.  They  are 
Red  Caps,  spoken  of  by  old  authors  as  a breed  of  the  family  of 
Hamburgs,  as  a sort  of  mongrel  Golden  Spangled,  with 
immense  rose  combs. 

The  Red  Caps  are  not  widely  known  to-day;  they  are  not  so  popular 
as  the  others  of  their  class.  Being  nearly  similar  to  the  Hamburgs, 
those  who  like  this  style  of  beauty  in  fowls  naturally  take  to  the  trim 
and  sprightly  Hamburgs. 

In  size  the  Red  Caps  come  under  the  middle  class  of  fowls — above 
the  size  of  the  Minorcas.  The  cocks  weigh  seven  and  one-half  pounds 
and  the  hens  six  and  one-half  pounds.  They  have  a large  rose  comb, 
which  their  name  signifies.  In  plumage  they  are  a red  and  black;  the 
head  is  red,  with  blue  black  hackle,  each  feather  being  edged  with  red; 
back  is  red  and  black,  and  breast  is  purplish  black.  The  shanks  are 
slate  colored. 

They  are  hardy  and  mature  early,  and,  like  the  Hamburgs,  are 
excellent  layers.  For  market  purposes  they  are  good,  the  size  and 
quality  of  flesh  being  recommendations  for  popular  favor.  They  are 
reputed  to  be  non-sitters,  though  frequent  incidents  are  known  of  their 
sitting  and  hatching  broods. 

The  latest  addition  to  the  standard  of  the  Hamburg  family 
Campines.  is  the  Campines.  These  fowls  have  recently  been  intro- 
duced to  the  American  poultrymen,  and  from  experiences  of 
those  who  have  bred  them,  they  should  prove  a worthy  rival  of  the 
other  varieties  of  their  class.  In  an  article  written  by  Mr.  Henry  Hales, 
the  history  and  characteristics  of  the  breed  are  told  as  follows  : 

“Taking  up  my  pen  to  describe  Campines,  revives  old  memories. 
They  are  the  ancestral  bottom  stock  of  many  varieties  of  poultry  ; I 
know  of  no  other  breed  that  can  claim  such  a numerous  progeny.  After 
a number  of  variously  named  varieties  have  descended  from  them  by 
selection,  the  same  old  pure  breed  has  been  preserved  in  their  native 
Belgium  for  over  a century.  Previous  to  their  breeding  up  to  the  Ham- 
burgs, there  were  several  varieties  of  fowls  called  Creoles,  Bolton  Grays, 
etc.,  quite  often  met  with  in  America  ; they  were  all  of  the  same  stock 
but  not  so  closely  defined  in  marking  as  the  Hamburgs  of  to-day.  I 
well  remember  seeing  them. 

“The  first  notice  we  have  in  English  literature,  that  I have  seen  of 
them,  is  in  Mawbray’s  Domestic  Poultry,  London,  1828,  which  says  : 
“There  is  a small  variety  now  imported  from  Holland  called  ‘Every  Day 
Hens,’  which  are  everlasting  layers.”  Notice  the  name,  which  has  been 
retained  to  the  Campines  on  their  native  soil  to  the  present  day.  These 
fowls  were,  no  doubt,  the  ancestors  of  the  several  varieties  called  under 
different  names,  as  they  were  bred  over  the  north  of  England,  with  little 
changes  in  some  localities,  where  the  whim  or  the  taste  of  the  breeders 
influenced  them,  as  a little  later  on  we  hear  of  Bolton  Grays,  Creoles, 
Lancashire  Mooneys,  Chilliprats,  and  several  other  names.  These  found 
their  way  to  America. 

“For  a full,  interesting  account  of  the  development  of  this  breed 
into  the  Hamburgs,  one  should  read  the  graphic  description  in  “Orna- 


130 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


mental  and  Domestic  Poultry,”  by  the  Rev.  Edmund  Saul  Dixon,  M.  A., 
England,  revised  fourth  edition  by  J.  J.  Kerr,  Philadelphia,  1855.  The 
original  edition  was  published  several  years  earlier,  as  it  is  quoted 
from  by  Bement,  and  was  the  next  we  hear  of  our  poultry  after  Maw- 
bray.  This  work  lias  a fair  picture  of  Creoles  or  Bolton  Grays  with  rose 
combs,  the  markings.  Another  name  for  the  improved  Campines  was 
Pheasant  Fowls,  Gold  and  Silver. 

“Bement’s  American  Poulterer’s  Companion,  New  York,  1845,  quotes 
Mawbray,  and  Dr.  Rufus  King,  of  Portsmouth,  N.  H.,  who,  seeing  an 
account  of  the  fowls  in  the  New  England  Farmer,. Vol.  XVIII.,  Nos.  39 
and  43,  procured  two  from  Philadelphia  ; he  goes  on  to  describe  them 
in  the  same  fashion  as  others,  and  adds  : ‘They  are  a hardy  fowl,  and  I 
value  them  most  of  any  I have.’ 

“Records  show  they  were  the  first  breeds  (varieties)  that  started  and 
graced  poultry  exhibitions  and  were  awarded  premiums.  Later  the 
Hamburgs  took  their  place  in  the  show  room,  but  their  ancestral  home 
kept  on  with  the  same  style  birds,  so  well  represented  in  the  accompany- 
ing illustration. 

Now  I have  gone  through  all  this  to  show  what  the  Campines  are. 
It  is  hardly  correct  to  call  them  Single  Combed  Hamburgs,  as  they  have 
either  in  Belgium,  single  or  double  ; nor  is  it  more  correct  to  call  them 
a new  breed,  as  they  are  one  of  the  oldest.  I have  known  them  as  long 
as  I can  remember  a fowl.  I do  not  believe  in  calling  their  descendant 
varieties  improvements , that  is  more  a matter  of  fancy  than  usefulness. 
They  are  beautiful  fowls  and  what  is  a most  important  fact,  every 
account  of  them,  from  the  earliest  to  the  latest  times,  agrees  on  one 
point — their  extraordinary  laying  qualities.  But  it  must  be  borne  in 
mind  their  early  records  were  light  compared  with  the  present  "time,  yet 
at  that  time  they  compared  favorably  with  other  poultry  of  that  date/ 
As  to  admitting  them  into  the  American  Standard,  I do  not  think  one- 
half  of  the  admitted  breeds  can  lay  as  good  a claim  to  that  honor  ; there 
is  more  distinction  between  them  and  Hamburgs  than  there  is  between 
some  other  allied  varieties  in  the  Standard.  The  marking  of  the  cock 
has  neither  the  white  breast  and  wings  of  the  Silver  Penciled,  nor  the 
bars  of  the  Spangled  Hamburgs,  nor  the  rose  comb  of  either.  Since 
Dixon’s  time,  some  have  doubted  whether  the  Spangled  Hamburgs  have 
the  same  origin  as  the  penciled  birds.  I do  not  see  why  this  is  doubted, 
for  Dixon  was  a great  naturalist  as  well  as  poultry  fancier,  and  his 
writings  show  he  gave  the  subject  careful  attention. 

“It  is  not  necessary  to  breed  and  show  these  birds  several  years  in 
America  to  prove  them  worthy  of  our  Standard,  any  more  than  it  is  to 
breed  our  Plymouth  Rocks  to  prove  them  in  Europe.  They  have  already 
-a  long  national  reputation  that  few  fowls  can  claim. 


P^BNCtf  CLASS, ' 

HOUDANS,  GF^EYE  GOEHRS,  LiA  FLiEGHE. 


Of  the  French  breeds,  the  Houdans  are  the  most  popular, 
Houdans.  the  general  indorsement  which  they  are  receiving  fully  testi- 
fying to  their  merits.  They  are  bred  extensively  in  America; 
and  they  are  recognized  as  a profitable  adjunct  to  the  poultry  yard. 
They  are  medium  size,  with  comb  and  crest,  and  in  color  are  mottled, 
with  black  and  white,  the  black  predominating. 

They  are  hardy,  and  prolific  layers  of  large  white  eggs  ; for  table 
purposes  they  are  among  the  best  fowls.  They  have  small  bones,  and 
the  flesh  is  tender  and  delicious. 

The  chicks  are  sprightly,  active  and  feather  rapidly.  They  are  non- 
sitters and  light  feeders — like  the  Leghorns,  they  may  be  fed  at  a small 
cost  as  compared  with  some  of  the  larger  breeds. 

For  the  fancier  they  may  be  styled  an  ornamental  fowl.  They  are 
upright  in  carriage  and  of  strutting  or  pompous  inclinations,  their  large 
black  and  white  crest  and  peculiar  comb  make  a striking  picture  for  the 
poultry  yard. 

Another  peculiarity  of  the  breed  is  that,  like  the  Dorkings,  they 
have  five  toes  ; while  of  no  seeming  use  whatever,  it  is  a requirement 
which  is  important  in  the  breeding  bird. 

There  is  no  doubt  that  the  Houdans  are  of  value  to  the  poultryman 
for  practical  and  fancy  purposes  alike,  and  should  be  recognized  as  a 
general  all-purpose  fowl. 

The  Creve  Coeurs  are  not  so  well  known  as  the 
Creve  Coeurs.  Houdans  in  this  country,  but  in  France  they  are  held  in 
high  esteem  for  the  delicacy  of  their  flesh. 

The  Creve  Coeurs  are  large,  the  cocks  weighing  from  eight  to  ten 
pounds  ; in  color  of  plumage  they  are  black  with  greenish  reflections. 
Their  shanks  are  very  short,  so  much  so  that  they  may  be  styled 
“creepers”  in  this  respect.  They  have  a large  crest  and  a leaf  comb, 
resembling  the  letter  V ; the  wattles  are  nearly  concealed  by  a thick 
beard,  which  extends  to  the  back  of  the  eyes  almost  hiding  the  face. 

They  are  gentle  in  disposition  and  easy  to  confine,  but  have  a weak 
constitution,  which  necessitates  extra  care  in  raising.  They  are  only 
medium  as  layers,  and  are  non-sitters  Their  stronghold  is  for  the  table, 
and  in  this  respect  they  rank  very  high. 

Among  the  French  breeds  the  La  Fleche  is  the  least  com* 
La  Fleche.  mon,  owing  to  their  extremely  delicate  constitution.  Mr 
Wright,  in  speaking  of  them,  says  : 

“This  breed  differs  considerably  from  the  Houdans  and  Creve  Coeurs. 
The  latter  birds  are  compact  and  neat  in  frame,  while  the  La  Fleche  is 
high  and  rather  gaunt  looking,  the  whole  frame  and  character  of 
plumage  denoting  the  preponderating  of  Spanish  blood.  That  a Polish 
cross  was  also  employed  is,  however,  conclusively  proven  by  the  fact 
that  nearly  all  the  specimens  first  imported  had  a small  crest,  while  the 
signs  of  the  cross  are  still  apparent  in  the  small  two-horned  comb.  The 


132 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


La  Fleche  is  a very  tall  Spanish-looking  fowl,  with  red  face,  brilliant 
white  ear  lobes,  and  glossy  black  plumage. 

“The  flesh  of  the  fowl  is  more  delicate  and  juicy  than  any  variety 
except  the  Game  ; it  is  a moderate  layer  of  very  large  white  eggs,  but 
bv  no  means  so  good  as  the  Spanish  in  this  respect ; it  is  as  a table 
fowl  that  it  claims  superiority.  It  does  not  mature  early — not 
nearly  so  early  as  the  Houdans  or  the  Creve.” 


Flat  of  wing.) 


NGLISEf  CLASS. 


&5hite  Dorkings,  Silver  Gf^ay,  Golof^ed  Dof^ings. 


The  Dorking  is  one  of  the  oldest  of  the  domestic  fowls,  if  not  the 
oldest.  There  are  no  definite  records  to  show  when  it  first  lived  in 
England,  or  from  whence  it  came.  But  the  suppQsition  is  that  it  was 
carried  to  England  by  the  Romans,  who  evidently  possessed  fowls  of 
similar  characteristics.  The  following  quotation  from  Moubray  is  a 
resume  of  its  history  : 

“It  is  undoubtedly  a breed  of  great  antiquity,  having  been  noticed 
and  described  in  the  first  century  of  the  Christian  era  by  Columella  and 
Pliny  ; and  there  seems  fair  grounds  for  supposing  that  these  birds 
were  introduced  into  this  country  by  the  Romans,  among  whom  they 
had  attained  at  that  early  period,  some  celebrity,  and  were  much 
esteemed  ; with  us  but  few  fowls  can  boast  such  high  and  long  con- 
tinued reputation  as  the  Dorkings.  It  has  been  suggested  that  Shakes- 
peare was  acquainted  with  the  superior  qualities  of  these  fowls,  and 
that  he  alludes  to  them  in  his  Henry  IV.,  when  he  makes  Justice  Shal- 
low, of  Glos’ter,  order  ‘a  couple  of  short-legged  hens’  for  his  guest’s 
repast.  The  chief  distinctive  mark  or  characteristic  of  the  breed  is  the 
presence  of  a fifth,  or  supernumerary  toe,  springing  behind,  a little 
above  the  foot  and  below  the  spur.  It  has  been  sought  by  various 
writers  to  deprive  Dorking  of  the  honor  of  being  the  original  and 
principal  rearing  place  of  this  justly  celebrated  variety ; and  it  is 
asserted  that  the  true  Dorking  fowls  are  raised  at  Horsham,  Cuckfield, 
and  other  places  in  the  Weald  of  Surrey  ; and  that  the  ancient  and 
superior  white  fowls  from  Dorking  are  a degenerated  race  compared 
with  the  ‘improved’  Sussex  breed.” 

This  English  bird  is  one  which  may  be  considered  an  ideal  bird  for 
general  purposes  ; it  is  medium  size,  cocks  weighing  seven  and  one- 
half  pounds,  and  the  hens  about  six  pounds.  It  is  a hardy  fowl  and 
can  stand  almost  any  amount  of  cold  weather,  providing  that  the 
ground  is  not  damp.  This  is  proven  by  the  fact  that  they  do  well  in 
the  northern  part  of  Scotland,  and  in  the  extreme  north  of  Ireland 
among  the  Cumberland  Hills,  and  in  other  places  equally  as  cold  and 
exposed.  This  should  be  remembered  by  those  who  contemplate 
raising  them,  that  the  soil  must  not  be  damp,  if  success  be  expected 
with  them. 

As  layers  the  Dorkings  are  good,  and  are  careful  sitters  and  atten- 
tive mothers. 

The  feature  in  which  the  bird  is  most  popular  is  its  table  qualities. 
The  flesh  is  white  and  very  delicate  in  texture.  It  is  claimed  by  many 
• to  equal,  if  not  excel,  the  French  varieties — the  La  Bresse  and  La 
Fleche.  The  broad,  deep  and  projecting  breast  of  the  Dorking  admir- 
ably fits  it  for  table  purposes,  and  in  this  respect  it  is  conceded  the 
rival  of  the  Indian  Games. 

The  White  Dorking  is  really  the  purest  blooded  of  the  three,  as  for 
years  this  was  the  only  variety  which  produced  invariably  the  fifth  toe  ; 
although  the  Colored  and  Silver  Gray  varieties  seldom  fail  to  breed 
this  peculiarity. 


134 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


In  color  the  White  Dorking  is  of  clear,  unblemished,  glossy  white. 
The  comb  and  wattles  are  a bright,  scarlet  red  ; the  legs  are  either 
white  or  a delicate  flesh  color. 

The  following  are  the  points  of  the  Silver  Gray  Dorkings  : 

Cock. — Head,  silvery  white  ; hackle,  pure  silvery  white,  as  free 
from  stripes  as  possible  ; comb,  face,  earlobes  and  wattles,  bright  red  ; 
beak,  horn  or  white  ; eye,  orange  ; breast,  thigh  and  under  parts,  black; 
back,  shoulder  coverts,  saddle  and  wing-bow,  pure  silvery  white  ; 
coverts,  greenish  black  ; primaries,  black,  edged  with  white  ; second- 
aries, part  of  outer  web  forming  “Wing  bay”  white  ; remainder  of 
feathers  forming  wihg  butt,  black  ; tail,  greenish,  glossy  black  ; legs, 
feet  and  toe  nails,  white. 

Hen. — Eye,  beak,  comb,  face,  wattles,  legs,  feet  and  toe  nails,  same 
as  in  cock  ; head,  silvery  white,  with  slight  gray  markings  ; hackle, 
silvery  white,  clearly  striped  with  black  ; breast,  rich  robin-red  or 
salmon-red  ; shading  off  to  grey  in  the  lower  parts  ; back,  shoulder 
coverts,  saddle,  wing-bow,  and  wing  coverts,  bright  silver  grey,  with 
minute  pencilings  of  darker  grey  on  each  feather ; the  shafts  of  the 
feathers,  white  ; primaries,  grey  or  black  ; secondaries,  grey  ; tail,  grey, 
of  a darker  shade  than  body  : quill  feathers,  black. 


PAIR  RED  PILE  GAMES. 


s aifd  Gaitfe  Barftaitf  Class, 

BLAGP£  BREASTED  I^ED,  BI^OWN  I^ED,  GOLDEN  AND 
SILVER  DUGI^WING,  I^ED  PILE,  WHITE,  BLAGI^, 
BI^GHEN,  GOI^NISH  INDIAN  GAME,  MALAY. 

The  origin  of  the  domestic  fowl  has  been 
The  Game  Fowl,  thoroughly  discussed  in  the  beginning  of  this  book. 

From  the  writings  of  well  known  and  learned  authors 
on  these  topics  it  is  universally  conceded  that  the  Games  are  the 
descendants  of  the  ancient  Gallus  Bankiva.  The  resemblance  of  the 
Game  to  the  wild  bird  in  figure  and  in  color,  markings  and  characteris- 
tics, is  so  close  as  to  scarcely  permit  of  a different  conclusion.  The 
Bankiva  cock  resembles  a small  Black  Breasted  Red  Game  in  shape  and 
color  and  in  size  is  between  the  Game  and  Game  Bantam. 

In  speaking  of  the  Game  fowds,  Mr.  H.  S.  Babcock  says  : 

“The  Game  fowl  has  a long  and  interesting  history,  though  it  takes 
us  back  to  the  time  when  the  chief  value  of  the  fowl  was  its  individual 
courage  and  its  chief  use  was  found  in  the  cock  pit. 

“The  Exhibition  Game,  with  whose  description  we  are  alone  con- 
cerned, is  derived  from  the  Pit  fowl,  and  the  great  difference  in  type 
between  the  two  birds  is  evidence  of  the  remarkable  skill  of  the  poultry 
breeder  in  fashioning  the  plastic  form  of  the  fowl  to  meet  the  fancy  of 
his  mind.  It  is  also  evidence  of  the  remarkable  variation  that  is  inherent 
in  fowls,  which  enables  them  to  be  molded  at  will.  The  Exhibition 
Game,  however,  has  not  been  changed  to  its  present  figure  without  a 
suspicion  of  crossing,  and  it  is  generally  believed  that  Malay  blood  has 
been  judiciously  used  in  its  formation.  It  is  true  that  certain  writers 
assert  that  the  Black-breasted  Red  Game  is  the  most  thoroughbred  of 
all  fowls  and  imply  that  no  crossing  has  ever  been  resorted  to,  but  the 
evidence  in  the  shape  and  the  disposition  is  so  strong  that  most  of  the 
best  informed  breeders  believe  that  the  reachiness  of  the  modern  Game 
is  due  quite  as  much  to  a cross  with  the  tall  Malay  as  to  the  skillful  use 
of  selection.  In  the  opinion  of  this  writer  both  crossing  and  selection 
were  necessary  to  effect  so  great  a transformation  as  that  of  the  Exhi- 
bition Game  from  the  Pit  fowl. 

“The  Pit  Game  is  a fowl  with  only  a moderate  length  of  limb,  wdth 
a rather  low  carriage  for  a Game  fowl,  with  rather  long  and  soft 
plumage,  and  with  a big  bushy  tail  carried  well  up.  The  Exhibition 
Game,  on  the  other  hand,  has  very  long  legs  and  neck,  stands  very 
erectly,  has  short  and  hard  plumage,  and  has  a small,  closely  folded  tail 
carried  at  a very  moderate  elevation.  The  birds  are  very  unlike  each 
other,  and  it  is  safe  to  say  that  there  is,  in  appearance,  a greater  differ- 
ence between  an  Exhibition  and  a Pit  Game  than  there  is  between  an 
Exhibition  Game  and  a Malay.  The  latter  has  the  length  of  limb  and 
neck,  the  short  and  hard  plumage  and  the  closely  folded  drooping  tail 
that  are  so  much  admired  in  the  Exhibition  Game.” 

By  careful  selection  for  many  generations,  the  Exhibition  Game  has 
been  brought  to  its  high  state  of  perfection.  For  beauty  the  Game  is 
considered  to  be  the  beau  ideal  of  the  feathered  race  ; although  some 


136 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


fail  to  trace  the  slightest  favor  with  the  tall  figure  of  the  Game  fowl. 
Each  individual  taste  and  the  taste  of  nations  differ  in  respect  to  the 
term  of  beauty,  and  that  which  is  considered  beautiful  by  one  is  the 
reverse  to  another.  The  small  foot  of  the  Chinese  woman  is  the  ideal 
of  beauty  to  the  Chinese  nation  ; the  fatter  the  woman  the  more  beauti- 
ful she  is  to  the  Hottentot  fancy  ; the  blacker  the  skin  of  the  negress, 
the  greater  is  her  beauty  admired  by  the  nations  of  Africa.  These 
reflections  show  the  diverse  opinions  of  humanity,  and  are  not  cited  as 
apologies  for  those  who  do  not  see  the  strange  and  fascinating  beauty  of 
the  Exhibition  Game,  as  it  is  bred  to-day. 

Its  tall,  commanding  and  striking  figure  is  a decided  contrast  to 
the  figures  of  other  poultry,  and  affords  relief  to  those  who  are  weary  of 
the  sameness  of  many  of  the  birds  in  the  show  room,  and  wins  admira- 
tion from  all  who  see  them. 

In  the  Game  class,  as  well  as  in  other  of  the  numerous 
Black  Breasted  classes  of  thoroughbred  poultry,  the  history  of  the 
Black  Breasted  Red  dates  from  the  most  remote  times. 

Red  Game.  They  breed  uniformly  and  invariably  alike  in  color, 
and  in  the  Bantams  of  this  name,  which  have  been  bred 
down  from  the  Game,  the  same  uniformity  is  still  observed. 

The  head  of  the  Red  Game  cock  is  long  ; neck  is  slim  and  snaky  ; 
broad  breast ; prominent  wing  points ; great  breadth  across  the 
shoulders  ; a straight  back  sloping  to  the  tail,  narrowing  from  the 
shoulder  to  the  stern  ; a short  wing  ; a hard,  compact  body  ; a closely 
tucked-up  stern  ; a long,  well-developed  thigh  ; a long,  smoothly-scaled, 
stout  shank  : long,  straight  toes  ; and  a small,  closely-folded  tail,  having 
few  sickles  and  hangers  that  are  fine  and  narrow.  The  hen  is  about  the 
same  shape  as  the  cock,  and  both  have  an  upright  and  bold  carriage. 

In  color  the  Red  Game  cock  is  a bright  orange,  or  light  red  on  head, 
hackle  and  saddle  ; the  breast,  body  and  stern  are  black  ; the  shoulders, 
except  the  shoulder  coverts,  are  red  ; the  bow  of  the  wing  is  red  ; the 
coverts  black  ; the  feathers  of  the  tail,  sickles  and  tail  coverts  are  a lus- 
trous black  ; the  thighs  are- black,  and  the  shanks  and  feet  yellow. 

The  hen  is  brown  ; the  head  and  hackles  are  light  golden,  with 
feathers  of  hackle  striped  with  black  down  the  center.  The  brown  color- 
ing of  the  feathers  of  the  body  are  penciled  with  black  ; the  tail  may  be 
black  or  dark  brown  ; the  upper  feathers  are  penciled  with  light  brown. 

The  Black  Breasted  Red  Game  is  a thoroughly  good  table  fowl,  the 
breast  being  full  and  meaty,  the  body  plump  and  the  flesh  fine  grained. 
It  is  a moderate  layer  of  medium-sized  eggs,  rich  in  flavor.  Having 
been  too  closely  bred,  for  ornamental  purposes,  their  constitutions  are 
weakened  and  the  chicks  need  extra  care  while  young. 

In  color  of  the  head  the  Brown  Red  Game  differs  from 
Brown  Red  the  Black  Breasted  Red  Game.  The  face  is  a dark  purple  ; 

beak,  black  or  dark  brown  ; comb,  wattles  and  earlobes, 
Games.  dark  purple  or  black.  The  head  of  the  cock  is  orange. 

The  cock  has  a lemon  colored  hackle,  with  a black  stripe 
down  the  center  of  each  feather.  The  broad  back  is  lemon,  with  a lemon- 
colored  saddle,  striped  the  same  as  hackle  ; the  breast  is  black,  laced  with 
lemon  ; shoulders,  black,  except  the  shoulder  coverts,  between  the  wing 
and  the  back,  which  are  lemon  ; the  wing-bowis  lemon,  and  the  coverts 
are  rich  glossy  black.  The  tail  is,  like  that  of  the  first  mentioned  bird, 
a rich,  lustrous  black  ; the  shanks  and  feet  are  dark  yellow,  nearly  black. 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


187 


The  Golden  and  Silver  Duckwings  are  interesting 
Duckwing  Games,  types  of  the  Game  class.  The  two  are  similar  in 

markings,  the  only  difference  in  color  being  that  one 
is  golden  or  straw-colored  while  the  other  is  white.  In  both  birds  the 
beak  is  horn-color;  the  face,  comb,  wattles  and  earlobes  are  red;  the 
breast,  tail  and  thighs  are  black,  and  the  feet  and  shanks  are  yellow.  In 
color  of  head,  hackle  and  wings  they  differ.  The  head  of  the  Golden 
Duckwing  cock  is  straw  color,  with  hackle  free  from  black  stripes,  the 
back  is  golden  and  the  wing-bow  is  a rich  golden  tinge  ; the  wing-coverts 
form  a distinct  black  bar  across  the  wing.  The  Silver  Duckwing  cock  is 
white  where  the  color  in  the  Golden  Duckwing  is  golden  or  straw. 

The  plumage  of  the  head  of  a Red  Pile  Game  cock 
Red  Pile  Games,  varies  in  color  from  bright  orange  to  chestnut;  the 
hackle  is  of  the  same  color  ; back,  crimson  ; breast, 
white,  narrowly  laced  with  chestnut;  body,  white  ; wing-bow,  crimson, 
making  a crimson  wing,  transversed  with  a white  bar ; tail  and  tail- 
coverts  white.  The  hen  has  a chestnut  head,  and  white  hackle,  edged 
with  yellow  ; the  back  is  white  ; breast,  salmon  ; white  or  chestnut-tinged 
wings  and  white  tail.  The  shanks  and  feet  of  both  male  and  female  are 
willow  or  yellow. 

The  Red  Piles  are  similar  in  markings  to  the  Black  Breasted  Red, 
the  white  being  substituted  for  the  black.  It  is  supposed  that  the  Red 
Pile  was  produced  by  breeding  Black  Breasted  Red  and  White  Games 
together. 

These  two  varieties  are,  in  all  characteristics,  like  the 
White  and  others  of  their  class,  differing  only  in  color.  The  White 
Game  has  a yellow  beak,  red  comb,  wattles  and  earlobes, 
Black  Games,  and  yellow  shanks  and  feet.  In  plumage  they  are  a 
pure,  spotless  white. 

The  Black  Game  has  a deep  red  comb,  wattles  and  earlobes,  black 
beak,  shanks  and  feet  and  black,  lustrous  plumage. 

In  color  these  birds  are  silvery-white  and  black.  The 
Birchen  Games,  head,  hackle,  back  and  saddle  of  the  cock  are  silvery 
white,  with  a narrow  dark  stripe  in  the  center  of  the 
feathers  of  the  hackle  and  saddle.  The  breast  is  black,  each  feather  being 
laced  with  silvery-white  ; the  wing-coverts  are  glossy  black  ; the  tail  and 
thighs  are  black;  the  shanks  and  feet  are  dark-willow  and  black.  The 
hen  is  black,  except  hackle,  which  is  silvery-white,  with  dark  stripe  down 
the  center  of  each  feather.  The  comb,  wattles  and  earlobes  are  dark- 
purple  or  black. 

No  single  breed  of  fowls,  perhaps,  has  had  the  una- 
Indian  Games,  bated  popularity  of  the  Indian  Game.  This  fowl  has 
been  the  center  of  attraction  for  many  years  past,  and 
among  its  admirers  are  the  most  prominent  breeders. 

It  is  a beautiful  bird  and  its  every  movement  bespeaks  its  high 
breeding,  it  having  an  upright  and  proud  carriage. 

The  Indian  Game  has  many  fine  qualities  to  commend  it  to  the 
breeder.  Perhaps  the  most  important  section  of  the  bird  is  the  breast,, 
which  is  very  wide,  round  and  prominent.  The  best  comparison  that 
can  be  made  would  be  with  a large,  fat  duck.  The  meat  is  very  solid,, 
yet  sweet  and  juicy,  and  of  the  finest  quality.  It  is  the  breast  that  gives 
the  fowl  its  great  weight,  and  it  is  the  width  and  fullness  of  the  breast 


138 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


that  causes  the  bird  to  carry  its  wings  so  far  out  and  up,  and  its  fullness 
all  along  the  keel  bone  causes  the  bird  to  stand  with  legs  well  apart. 
The  breast  should  never  be  straight  or  curved  in,  but  always  oval  and 
full  in  contour.  In  plumage,  the  male  should  be  green-black,  never 
penciled.  In  the  center  along  the  breast-bone,  the  feathers  should  part, 
and  thus  allow  the  skin  to  show’  just  at  or  above  the  upper  point  of  the 
keel  bone.  This  should  appear  in  boch  male  and  female,  and  seems  to 
be  a feature  of  the  breed,  as  it  always  shows  from  the  time  the  chicks 
shed  the  down.  The  thighs  should  be  well  rounded  and  taper  nicely 
toward  the  joint  and  should  be  very  thick  and  meaty  adjoining  the  body. 
Shanks  should  be  very  stout,  well  scaled  and  deep  orange  in  color. 
Back  toe  should  be  almost  flat  on  the  ground.  The  tail  should  be  very 
close  and  hard  and  the  sickles  rather  short  ; tail  should  never  appear 
bushy  or  fluffy,  and  should  be  carried  out  and  down,  and  should  be  lus- 
trous greenish-black  in  color.  The  cock  should  have  a chestnut  wing, 
bay  and  metallic  black  wing-bar;  wings  should  be  tightly  folded,  and 
ends  of  the  secondaries  rounding  off  quite  abruptly  and  resting  close 
against  the  tail,  or,  better  still,  just  above  it.  The  neck-hackle  is  com- 
posed of  short,  hard  feathers,  green-black  with  delicate  crimson-brown 
shafts.  The  neck-hackle  should  never  appear  as  a shawl  , the  throat 
should  be  dotted  with  very  small  feathers,  and  never  bare.  The  eye 
should  be  yellow  in  old  birds,  approaching  grey  ; beak,  yellow,  or  striped 
with  light  horn  color.  The  plumage  of  the  female  is  the  most  difficult 
to  obtain,  and  should  be  a beautiful  combination  of  green-black  and  nut- 
brown  throughout,  green  predominating.  Each  feather  should  be 
nut-brown  and  double  penciled,  with  rich  lustrous  green-black  over  the 
body,  and  the  penciling  should  be  very  distinct  and  look  as  though 
embossed. 

Mr.  O.  K.  Sharp,  of  Lockport,  N.  Y.,  who  has  successfully  imported 
and  bred  them  for  years,  speaks  of  them  as  follows  : 

“No  breed  can  claim  more  intricate  and  delicate  markings,  and  the 
birds’  ability  to  breed  comparatively  true  makes  them  all  the  more  desir- 
able. The  true  fancier  will  find  in  them  the  acme  of  his  ambition,  for 
judicious  matings  will  surely  bring  grand  results.  Now  that  I have 
given  a partial  description  of  the  main  points  which  the  true  Indian 
Games  must  possess,  I will  briefly  touch  upon  their  qualities  from  a 
commercial  standpoint. 

“Without  doubt  they  are  the  quickest  growing  chicks  from  the  shell 
up  to  sixteen  weeks  of  any  living  breed.  Growing  a very  short  feather, 
the  nourishment  required  by  other  breeds  to  grow  a long  and  entirely 
superfluous  feather,  in  them  is  utilized  in  growing  meat,  and  makes  them 
the  best  broiler  chicks  yet  discovered.  Cockerels  will  easily  weigh  two 
pounds  at  seven  to  seven  and  a half  weeks  of  age,  and  at  eleven  weeks 
will  go  three  to  four  pounds  each.  As  chicks  they  are  very  plump  and 
solid,  and  command  the  highest  market  price  as  broilers.  Their  growth 
is  very  rapid  up  to  about  twenty  weeks,  when  a good  specimen  should 
weigh,  for  cockerel,  six  and  a half  to  seven  pounds.  A fowl  that  can 
make  such  rapid  growth  and  take  on  flesh  so  readily  must  furnish  meat 
of  delicious  flavor  ; it  cannot  well  be  otherwise.  As  a meat  bird  they 
surely  excel  all  other  varieties. 

“We  find  them  better  layers  than  we  anticipated,  and  we  confidently 
oelieve  them  to  be  fully  the  equal  of  the  Plymouth  Rock  in  this  respect. 
A number  of  America’s  most  prominent  artists  and  judges  already  admit 


POULTRY  ROOK 


139 


them  to  be  the  strongest  rival  the  Plymouth  Rock  has  ever  had,  and  they 
certainly  present  points  of  superiority  over  the  Rock  in  many  respects. 
No  other  variety  can  be  offered  to  so  many  classes  of  people  interested 
in  poultry  as  the  Indian  Games,  and  draw  from  each  one  a kind  word  for 
that  particular  quality  toward  which  his  fancy  turns.” 

While  not  yet  recognized  in  the  Standard,  the  poultryman  has  a 
most  valuable  bird  in  the  White  Indian  Game.  This  beautiful  bird 
possesses  all  the  qualities  of  its  relative.  They  have  the  same  courageous 
appearance  of  the  Game,  and  have  the  true  exhibition  station  and  short, 
hard  plumage  of  the  Cornish  Indian  Game.  Being  of  one  color — a pure, 
spotless  white- — they  are  easier  to  breed  than  the  Cornish.  They  make 
fine  table  fowls  and  are  fairly  good  layers.  The  eggs  hatch  well  and  the 
chicks  are  plump  and  robust. 

This  upright  and  powerful  looking  bird  has  never 
Black  Breasted  been  popular  in  this  country.  They  are  in  the  Game 
class,  and  are  bred  for  exhibition  only,  not  possessing 
Red  Malays,  qualities  for  practical  purposes. 

They  are  of  medium  size  and  in  carriage  they  are 
particularly  upright,  the  back  being  almost  always  at  an  angle  of  forty- 
five  degrees.  They  are  bulky  at  the  shoulders  and  the  wings  stand  out 
from  their  bodies.  Their  close  plumage  is  red  or  maroon  and  black. 
The  body  narrows  from  the  broad  shoulders  towards  the  tail,  which 
droops  down  almost  in  a straight  line  with  the  back.  The  thighs  are 
long  and  powerful,  the  longer  the  better.  The  head  is  carried  high,  and 
the  neck  is  long  and  scanty  of  hackle.  A striking  feature  of  the  Malay 
is  the  head  ; it  is  long  and  snaky,  with  heavy  and  projecting  brows  over 
the  eyes,  which  give  the  bird  a hard,  fierce  and  cruel  expression.  The 
wattles  and  ear-lobes  are  slight  in  development  ; the  skin  of  the  throat 
and  the  upper  part  of  the  throat  is  a bright  red,  and  the  scantiness  of 
th<5  plumage  causes  this  redness  to  show  distinctly  and  is  a characteristic 
of  the  breed.  The  shanks  and  toes  are  bright  yellow.  The  disposition 
of  the  Malay  is  reputed  to  be  very  savage,  and  in  battle  they  literally 
tear  their  opponents  to  pieces.  They  are  very  large  and  hardy  ; for 
these  reasons  they  have  been  used  for  crossing  with  other  breeds  to 
infuse  vigor  and  size,  when  a breed  is  degenerating.  The  Malays  are 
supposed  to  be  one  of  the  parent  stock  of  the  Black  Javas. 

It  is  unnecessary  to  go  further  into  details  of  the 
Game  Bantams,  shape  and  color  of  the  Game  Bantams,  other  than  is 
given  for  the  various  Games,  from  which  the  Bantams 
have  descended  and  derive  their  names. 

The  color  of  plumage,  markings  and  shape  must  correspond  with 
that  of  the  Game,  which  bears  its  name,  the  diminutive  size  being  the 
only  distinguishing  feature  between  the  two.  The  cocks  should  average 
about  22  ounces  in  weight,  and  the  hens  20  ounces.  The  Malay  Ban- 
tams average  two  ounces  heavier. 


PAIR  BLACK  BREASTED  RED  GAMES 


Uaiftaitf  Class*-OtI|er  t\ |at|  Gaitfes. 

Sebright,  F£ose  Bombed,  Booted 

tOH ite,  Goghin,  Japanese,  Polish. 


Among  ornamental  poultry,  the  Bantams  are  the 
Sebright  Bantams,  most  beautiful.  Their  tiny  forms  and  their  pert 
actions  attract  many  admirers.  As  pets  they  are  a 
decided  success,  affording  pleasure  that  is  original  with  them  alone.  In 
the  Bantams  we  see  the  image  in  full  of  their  parent ; the  exact  repro- 
duction in  miniature  of  the  shape  and  color.  » 

Those  who  love  fowls,  and  have  limited  space  for  keeping  them,  can 
keep  Bantams  very  successfully  and  enjoy  the  pleasure  of  poultry  rais- 
ing on  a small  scale.  It  is  not  for  pleasure  alone  that  Bantams  may  be 
kept,  for  they  have  a practical  value  to  their  credit  that  will  more  than 
pay  for  the  keeping.  As  layers  they  do  well  and  lay  a large  egg  for 
their  size.  When  served  on  the  table  they  afford  a dish  that  is  not  far 
behind  their  larger  parents.  The  larger  Bantams  do  well  for  table  pur- 
poses, and  even  the  smaller  ones  may  be  used  to  advantage  in  this  line. 
As  sitters  and  mothers  they  are  all  that  could  be  desired. 

The  Bantams  have  a history  which  is  traceable  to  remote  times,  but 
the  history  of  the  “modern  Bantam,”  if  we  are  permitted  to  use  that 
term,  is  within  the  present  century.  It  was  John  Seabright  who,  in 
1800,  originated  the  varieties  known  as  Golden  and  Silver  Sebrights. 
These  breeds  were  originated  by  crossing  a common  Bantam  with  a 
Polish  fowl,  and  breeding  the  cross  to  a hen-feathered  Bantam  which 
Sir  John  accidentally  found.  After  many  years  of  careful  breeding, 
beautiful  birds  have  been  produced  which  breed  tru°  to  type,  and  this 
mark  is  still  established  to  this  date. 

The  plumage  of  the  bird  is  rich  golden-yellow  in  the  Golden  variety 
and  silvery-white  in  the  Silver  variety  ; the  feathers  of  each  variety  are 
distinctly  laced  with  a narrow  edging  of  black.  The  head  is  small  and 
surmounted  with  a bright  red  rose-comb  ; the  neck  is  well  arched,  and 
hen-feathered  ; the  back  is  short  and  free  from  saddle-feathers  ; the 
breast  is  round  and  full,  and  the  body  is  compact  ; the  wings  are  large 
and  carried  low,  so  low,  in  fact,  as  to  almost  cover  the  hocks  ; the  thighs 
must  be  short,  and  the  shanks  and  toe  slaty  color.  The  cocks  weigh 
from  24  to  26  ounces,  and  the  hens  about  20  ounces. 

There  are  two  varieties  of  Rose  Combed  Bantams — the 
Rose  Combed  Black  and  the  White  Hamburgs  in  miniature.  The  cocks 
should  have  a small,  round  head  ; a short  and  slightly 
Bantams.  curved  beak  ; large,  prominent  bright  eyes  ; rose  comb, 
square  in  front,  fitting  firmly  on  the  head,  evenly  corru- 
gated on  the  upper  surface  and  ending  in  a spike  with  a slight  upward 
curve  ; flat,  closely  fitting  earlobes ; broad,  thin,  smooth  and  well- 
rounded  wattles  ; neck,  small  at  the  head,  increasing  in  size  as  it 
approaches  the  shoulders,  nicely  arched  and  carried  well  back  so  as  to 
bring  the  head  towards  the  tail  ; abundant  hackle  of  good  length, 
sweeping  over  the  shoulders  ; a very  short  back,  broad  at  the  shoulders 
and  tapering  towards  the  tail  ; long  and  plentiful  saddle  feathers  ; full, 


142 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


round  breast,  carried  forward  in  a prominent  manner  ; plump,  compact 
and  symmetrical  body  ; large  wings,  the  points  carried  low  and  the 
secondaries  slightly  expanded  ; full,  expanded  tail,  furnished  with  long,, 
curving  sickles  and  coverts,  and  carried  rather  high  ; short,  well-rounded 
thighs,  and  short,  clean,  tapering  shanks,  not  coarse  in  bone. 

The  hens  should  have  small,  neatly  rounded  head  ; full,  bright 
eyes  ; rose  comb,  smaller  and  neater,  but  of  the  same  character  as  that 
of  the  cock  ; flat,  smooth  earlobes  ; small  wattles  ; short,  tapering  neck, 
carried  well  back  ; short  back  ; full,  prominent  breast  ; compact,  snugly 
made  body  ; ample  wings,  drooping,  but  not  so  much  as  in  the  cock 
full,  expanded,  rather  upright  tail  ; short,  round  thighs  ; and  short, 
tapering,  neat  shanks. 

The  Black  Rose  Combed  Bantam  has  black,  lustrous  plumage,  and 
the  White  has  plumage  of  pure,  spotless  white-;  the  Black  has  black  or 
dark  horn-colored  beak";  the  White,  a yellow  beak  ; the  Black  has  pure 
white  earlobes,  and  the  White,  red  ones  ; the  Black  has  dark  leaden-blue 
shanks,  and  the  White,  yellow  ones. 

These  Bantams  are  different  from  the  others  in  having,. 
Booted  White  as  their  name  implies,  heavily  feathered  or  booted 
shanks.  They  have  a small  head  and  medium  sized  sin- 
Bantams.  gle  comb  ; the  hackles  are  long  and  partly  cover  the 
shoulders  ; the  wings  are  large  and  droop  slightly  ; the 
tail  is  upright,  with  long  sickles,  and  abundant  coverts  ; the  thighs  are 
medium  in  length  and  covered  with  long,  stiff  feathers  or  vulture  hocks 
which  nearly  reach  the  ground  ; the  toes  and  shanks  are  yellow.  The 
plumage  is  pure  white.  These  Bantams  are  pets  that  can  be  kept  in 
any  garden,  as  their  long  vulture  hocks  prevent  them  from  scratching 
and  tearing  the  ground  as  other  fowls  do. 

There  are  four  varieties  of  Cochin  Bantams — Buff, 
Cochin  Bantams.  Partridge,  White  and  Black.  In  color  and  shape 
they  are  the  same  as  their  larger  parents.  In  weight 
they  are  the  largest  of  the  Bantam  class.  The  cock  weighs  about  28 
ounces  and  the  hen  24  ounces. 

The  Black  Tailed  Japanese  Bantams  are  quite 
Japanese  Bantams,  favorites  in  this  country.  Their  striking  beauty 
and  peculiar  shaped  tails  make  them  favorites  that 
place  them  in  the  front  ranks  of  the  Bantam  class.  They  are  white, 
except  the  tail  and  wings.  The  tail  is  black,  and  the  sickles  are  black, 
edged  with  white.  The  wings  are  large  and  long,  the  points  drooping  ; 
the  color  of  the  primaries  and  secondaries  is  dark  slate,  edged  with 
white  ; when  the  wing  is  folded  it  apparently  is  white.  The  tail  is 
expanded  and  carried  in  an  upright  position,  almost  touching  the  back 
of  the  head  ; the  sickles  are  long  and  curved  gracefully.  Their  shanks 
are  free  from  feathers  and  bright  golden  in  color. 

The  White  and  Black  Japanese  Bantams  are  the  same  in  size  and 
shape  as  the  Black  Tailed  variety.  The  beak,  shanks  and  toes  of  the 
White  are  bright  yellow,  while  those  of  the  Black  may  be  yellow,  or 
yellow  shaded  with  black  ; the  color  of  the  white  variety  is  pure  white, 
and  the  Black  has  a lustrous  black  plumage. 

This  beautiful  little  bird  is  of  American  origin,  and 
Polish  Bantams,  originated  about  the  year  1872  by  an  accidental  cross 
of  a White  Polish  cock  and  a common  hen.  The 
Poultry  World  gives  the  history  of  them  as  follows  : 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


143 


“They  originated  in  the  yards  of  a gentleman  by  the  name  of  Isaac 
Murdock,  whose  postoffice  address  was  Agawam,  Mass.,  but  who  lived 
some  three  miles  from  that  place.  Mr.  Murdock  bred  the  Bantams 
resulting  from  this  cross  for  four  or  five  seasons  before  his  death.  After 
his  death,  a blacksmith  of  Springfield,  Mass.,  George  Newton  by  name, 
purchased  the  entire  stock  of  Bantams,  and  offered  some  for  sale 
through  the  columns  of  the  poultry  periodicals.  At  that  time  the  chicks 
had  small  crests  and  the  plumage  was  often  disfigured  by  foul  feathers. 
Mr.  F.  B.  Zimmer,  of  Glens  Falls,  New  York,  was  one  of  the  first  to 
purchase  birds  of  Mr.  Newton  after  he  offered  them  for  sale,  and  was 
the  first  to  publicly  exhibit  them,  showing  a pair  in  the  year  1881. 

“Under  the  very  careful  breeding  given  them  by  Mr.  Zimmer,  the 
color  has  been  established  so  that  foul  feathers  no  longer  appear,  and 
the  crests  have  been  nearly  doubled  in  size.  They  were  admitted  to  the 
Standard  in  1879  or  !88o  through  the  influence  of  a warm  personal 
friend  of  Mr.  Murdock,  it  is  said,  but  careful  inquiry  has  failed  to  elicit 
that  friend’s  name.  Since  their  admission  to  the  Standard  they  have 
been  disseminated  throughout  the  country,  and  good  birds  may  be  had 
in  a number  of  places.  They  are,  however,  as  yet  comparatively  rare, 
and  good  specimens  find  a ready  sale  at  remunerative  prices.” 


iscbllaneous  class, 

RUSSIANS,  SUMATRA,  SlLI^Y,  SULTAN,  FRIZZLES, 

I^UMPLtESS,  yOI^OHAMA,  nApD  nE6I(f 


The  history  of  the  Russian  fowl  in  this  country  is  very 
Russians,  limited.  From  the  best  information  obtainable,  it  appears 
that  their  earliest  introduction  into  this  country  as  a pure 
breed  was  at  New  Orleans  about  50  years  ago.  It  is  probable  that  some 
of  this  breed  was  mixed  with  the  ordinary  poultry  of  England  two 
hundred  years  ago  and  brought  to  this  country  b}"  the  colonists,  for 
traces  of  them  are  found  in  the  common  fowls  to  this  day  all  over  the 
United  States.  The  breed  has  little,  if  any,  favor  in  this  country,  and 
as  a result  are  run  down  and  scattered  promiscuously  in  a bad  state.  In 
size  they  are  medium,  the  cocks  weighing  eight  and  one-half  pounds, 
and  the  hens  six  and  one-half  pounds. 

The  cock  has  a well  formed  head,  rather  large  in  size;  stout,  well- 
curved,  black  or  horn-colored  beak  ; rose  comb,  without  spike  ; full, 
heavy  beard,  which  curves  around  to  the  back  of  the  eyes  ; medium- 
sized earlobes  ; long,  pendulous  wattles  ; well-arched  neck  ; broad  back, 
tapering  to  the  tail  ; full,  round  breast  ; broad  compact  body  ; wings  of 
medium  size  ; strong  thighs  ; legs  of  medium  length  and  dark-lead 
color  ; the  bottom  of  the  foot  is  yellow  ; the  tail  is  erect  and  free  from 
long  sickle  feathers. 

The  hen  is  bearded  like  the  cock  ; has  a similar  but  smaller  comb  ; 
back  of  less  width  ; full  breast  ; tail  of  medium  size  and  carried  moder- 
ately erect  ; the  legs  are  of  the  same  hue  as  the  cock’s. 

These  fowls  are  called  by  Dickson,  the  “Russian  or  Siberian  fowls,” 
and  in  speaking  of  them  he  says  : 

“This  breed  seems  to  differ  chiefly  from  others  in  having  consid- 
erable tufts  of  brown  or  dark  loose  feathers  springing  from  each  jaw, 
and  others  longer  or  fuller  from  the  lower  mandible,  like  a Jew’s  beard. 
In  the  hen  there  is  an  upright  tuft,  spreading  from  the  back  of  the 
head,  of  the  same  silky  texture.  Independently  of  these,  the  cock  has 
the  usual  comb  and  wattles,  and  the  hen  a small  comb  likewise.  This 
sort  is  said  to  have  come  from  Moscow,  and  varies  in  color,  one  variety 
being  white,  with  the  ends  of  the  feathers  glossy  blue  or  black,  giving 
it  a spotted  appearance,  and  the  legs  being  covered  with  fibrous  or 
downy  feathers.  Another  variety  has  the  plumage  of  the  Game  fowl,  a 
fine,  tawny  orange,  spotted  with  black.  This  sort  is  said  to  be  much 
esteemed  in  Scotland  for  prolific  laying,  but  it  does  not  appear  to  be 
known  in  England.” 

For  a truly  beautiful  bird,  none  is,  perhaps,  so  little 
The  Black  known  as  the  Black  Sumatra  Game.  We  recognize  in 
this  bird  many  fine  points  that  are  worthy  the  consid- 
Sumatra  Game,  eration  of  the  fancier  and  at  the  same  time  can  be 
utilized  with  good  results  to  the  breeder.  Considerable 
comment  against  the  Sumatra  has  been  made  on  account  of  its  long, 
flowing  tail,  and  lack  of  pit  qualities.  In  this  we  must  differ  as  regards 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


145 


the  gameness  of  the  bird,  for  we  have  many  times  witnessed  the  defense 
of  their  mates  and  the  protection  of  their  young.  Their  attitude  on 
such  occasions  is  quick  and  determined  in  every  action.  They  may  be 
slow  in  opening  a conflict,  but  when  oppression  leads  them,  no  bird  can 
show  a greater  amount  of  staying  qualities  than  the  Sumatra.  This  is 
only  mentioned  in  behalf  of  their  game  qualities,  and  not  with  a desire 
to  urge  them  as  a breed  for  fighting  purposes,  but,  to  the  contrary,  we 
would  breed  them  as  an  ornamental  fowl. 

When  unmolested  by  other  fowls,  they  can  be  bred  as  true  pets,  or 
as  much  so  as  any  other  domestic  fowl.  Their  disposition  is  gentle,  and 
no  trouble  is  experienced  in  removing  eggs  from  the  nest  or  when 
catching  the  young  in  the  yard.  They  are  attentive  to  their  young, 
ever  watchful  of  danger,  and  their  slow,  stately  tread  bespeaks  their 
aristocracy.  Their  plumage  is  very  rich,  being  lustrous  black  through- 
out, which  reflects  radiantly  a dark  greenish  cast  in  the  light. 

The  tail  is  long  and  drooping,  with  an  abundance  of  sickle  feathers 
and  coverts,  which  are  long  and  flowing.  This  is  the  triumph  which 
severs  all  connection  with  the  Pit  Game,  and  places  them  foremost  as  an 
ornamental  breed. 

The  Silky  fowls  are  attractive  and  strange  looking 
Silky  Fowls,  birds.  Their  soft  and  silky  webless  plumage  distinctly 
separates  them  from  the  other  varieties  of  poultry  and 
affords  a different  and  novel  feature  for  the  fancier.  Silkies  are  not 
extensively  bred  in  this  country,  but  in  England  they  are  very  popular 
and  at  the  shows  form  a large  part  of  the  exhibitions.  Their  feathers, 
when  in  prime  condition,  are  exceedingly  loose  and  fluffy,  standing  out 
from  the  body  in  all  directions,  giving  the  fowl  the  appearance  of  a 
large  bird,  which  their  weight  does  not  justify. 

In  weight  the  cocks  average  from  two  and  one-half  to  four  pounds 
each,  while  the  hens  average  from  two  to  two  and  a half  pounds  each. 

The  birds  are  of  rather  square,  compact  Cochin-build  ; crested,  the 
cock’s  crest  running  back  horizontally,  while  the  hen’s  is  globular ; five 
toed  ; feather-legged  ; rose  comb,  nearly  round,  having  a lumpy  appear- 
ance with  few,  if  any  corrugations  on  top,  and  in  color  a dark  purple  ; 
earlobes,  blue  or  purple,  tinged  with  white  ; skin,  violet,  approaching 
black  ; the  covering  of  the  bones  being  of  the  same  color  ; shanks,  dark 
blue  or  black  ; plumage,  white,  and  downy  in  appearance. 

The  Silky  fowl  lays  a small  egg  of  pale  buff  color.  They  lay  from 
ten  to  twenty-five  before  wanting  to  sit.  They  make  excellent  mothers 
and  are  very  valuable  to  hatch  and  rear  Bantams  or  Pheasants.  Their 
downy  feathers  make  a warm  cover  for  the  tender  little  ones  of  the 
more  delicate  varieties. 

These  fowls  were  first  imported  into  England  from  Turkey 
Sultans,  in  1854,  and  did  not  reach  America  for  some  years  after.  They 
might  be  classed  with  the  Polish  with  propriety,  considering 
the  characteristics  which  they  possess. 

A compact  crest  surmounts  their  head, while  their  throats  are  muffled 
by  a full  beard.  Two  small  spikes  constitute  the  comb.  The  neck  and 
saddle  hackle  is  long  and  flowing,  being  developed  to  a large  size.  The 
legs  are  heavily  feathered  and  booted  and  hocks  vultured.  They 
possess  a fifth  toe.  The  tail  is  full  and  erect ; in  the  cock  it  is  well 
sickled.  In  general  form  they  are  square  and  full.  They  combine  with 


1 


146 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


their  beauty  a brisk  and  happy  temperament.  While  their  beauty  is 
their  chief  recommendation,  they  still  lay  claim  to  modest  usefulness — 
but  only  as  layers,  being  too  small  for  table  fowls.  They  thrive  well  on 
a limited  range  or  in  confinement,  while,  owfing  to  their  docility,  they 
may  become  a rival  to  the  Bantams  as  pets. 

For  general  grotesqueness,  the  Frizzled  fowls  are> 
Frizzled  Fowls,  perhaps,  the  most  noted  of  any.  Their  name,  very 
appropriately  applied  from  the  peculiar  manner  in 
which  the  feathers  curve  backwards  and  upwards  at  the  ends,  gives  a 
clue  to  their  characteristics.  As  these  birds  vary  in  color,  there  is  no 
rule  for  judging  their  plumage,  except  that  it  should  curve  upwards  at 
the  ends,  as  if  in  rebellion  against  the  laws  of  nature.  This  curving  is 
most  conspicuous  in  the  hackle  and  saddle  feathers.  Any  color  is  ad- 
missible, but  the  birds  should  match  in  the  show  pen.  The  combs  may 
be  either  double  or  single.  The  Frizzled  fowls  are  reported  to  be  hardy 
and  very  early  and  good  layers. 

This  variety  of  fowls  has  been  known  for  several 
Rumpless  Fowls,  hundred  years.  It  is  sometimes  called  the  “tailless 
fowl,”  or  “fowl  without  a tail  or  rump.”  In  speaking 
of  these  fowls,  Mr.  Wright  says  : 

“Rumpless  fowls  are  not  only  destitute  of  tail  feathers,  but  it  is 
found  by  plucking  them  that  the  caudal  projection  from  which  the  tail 
grows  is  utterly  wanting ; while  on  still  further  investigation  by  dis- 
section, it  is  discovered  that  even  the  spine  itself  is  deficient  in  the  final 
vertebrae.  These  peculiarities  have  become  so  strongly  fixed  by  long 
descent,  that  a Rumpless  fowl  crossed  with  any  other  fowl  almost  always 
produces  a vast  majority  of  Rumpless  chickens.  Hence,  given  a pure 
bred  Rumpless  fowl,  it  is  easy  to  establish  a rumpless  breed  of  any 
character  which  may  be  desired  ; and  by  this  means  the  Rumpless 
Polish,  Rumpless  Bantams,  etc.,  have  been  produced.  These  crossbred 
birds,  however,  are  far  less  certain  to  reproduce  their  kind.” 

The  principal  peculiarity  of  this  breed  consists  of 
Yokohama  Fowls,  its  immense  length  of  tail  and  hackle  feathers. 

These  are  often  exhibited  as  the  Yokohamas  ; others, 
said  to  be  superior  in  these  points,  are  called  the  Phoenix  fowls.  This 
bird  is  often  seen  in  Japanese  pictures — a long-tailed  bird,  hovering  down 
from  heaven  and  bearing  a little  god.  The  Fung,  or  Phoenix,  is  one  of 
the  myths  of  the  Japanese  religion,  and  it  is  thought  that  the  Yokohama 
fowls  were  like  those  found  in  the  paintings  ; hence  the  name  of  Phoenix 
is  applied  to  the  breed. 

The  numerous  drawings  and  photographs  fail  to  show  any  real  dis- 
tinction between  greater  or  less  development  of  the  peculiar  plumage. 
The  tails  of  these  specimens  average  about  a yard  in  length,  and  the 
general  appearance  is  not  only  of  the  Game  fowls,  but  all  the  colors 
were  Game  colors — Whites,  Piles,  Duckwings  and  later  a few  Black 
Reds.  The  Countess  Ulm-Urbach  holds  that  the  Yokohama  and  the 
Phoenix  are  different  breeds  of  fowls. 

Mr.  Gerald  Waller,  of  England,  who  made  a very  extended  trip 
through  Japan,  says  there  are  no  such  fowls  as  the  Phoenix  or  Yokohama, 
but  that  there  is  a “Shinewaratoa”  fowl,  which  is  extremely  rare,  and 
answers  the  description  given  the  Phoenix.  The  Phoenix  and  Yoko- 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


147 


nama  are  names  given  the  fowls  by  those  who  imported  them.  His 
description  of  the  fowls  is  as  follows  : “One  of,  if  not,  the  most  striking 
objects  in  the  natural  museum  department  of  the  splendid  new  museum 
at  Tokio  is  the  large  glass  case,  some  eight  feet  high,  containing,  placed 
on  a perch,  one  turned  either  way,  two  badly  preserved  specimens  of 
these  long-tailed  fowls,  the  tail  feathers  of  both  of  which  descend  from 
above  the  perch  to  the  floor  of  the  case,  and  these  wind  backward  and 
forward  a number  of  times  in  such  a manner  as  to  render  it  quite 
impossible  to  gain  anything  like  an  accurate  measurement  of  their 
length,  but  which  is,  I have  been  informed,  over  17  feet.  I tried  to 
obtain  permission  from  the  authorities  at  Tokio  to  be  allowed  to  photo- 
graph these  two  specimens,  but  failed.  There  is  also  a picture  which 
has,  I believe,  no  connection  whatever  with  the  stuffed  specimens  except 
as  giving  Japanese  characters  and  a general  description  of  this  breed, 
and  of  one  bird  owned  by  Mr.  Shimansuchi  Toralici,  the  Shizoku,  of 
Kochiken,  from  which  the  name  is  taken,  with  tail  feathers  13  feet  six 
inches  long.  I have  been  told  that  the  tail  feathers  of  the  male  birds  of 
the  Shinewaratao  breed  will  grow  23  feet  long,  and  I have  no  reason  to 
disbelieve  this  statement.  If  a bird  can  grow  a tail,  the  sickle  feathers 
of  which  are  13  feet  six  inches  long,  I do  not  see  why  it  should  not  grow 
one  23  feet  long.” 

Tails  of  more  than  four  or  five  feet  have  been  bred  from  imported 
stock  on  the  Continent  and  in  England.  It  is  believed  that  none  of  the 
specimens  having  the  longest  tail  have  ever  been  imported.  Mr.  Waller 
states  that  the  cocks,  such  as  the  stuffed  specimens  described,  cannot  be 
bought  at  any  price.  The  way  in  which  the  Japanese  fanciers  keep  the 
birds  having  tails  of  immoderate  length  goes,  on  the  other  hand,  to 
sustain  the  theory  that  the  imported  birds  might  grow  full  length  tails 
except  for  the  injury  to  the  feathers  from  dragging  on  the  ground. 
The  Japanese  keep  these  birds  in  high,  narrow  cages,  sitting  upon 
perches  covered  with  straw  rope.  Food  and  water  are  placed  at  each 
end  of  this  perch,  and  three  times  a day  the  birds  are  taken  down  and 
given  a little  exercise  in  a clean  place. 

The  White  Phoenix,  or  Yokohama,  is  mentioned  by  an  Englishman 
who  traveled  in  Japan  in  1881.  This  bird  has  a long  tail,  but  not  so 
voluminous  as  the  specimens  brought  to  Hamburg.  A tail  feather, 
broken  a little  at  the  thick  end  was  found  to  measure  28-J-  inches. 

There  is  a vast  difference  of  opinion  in  the  matter  of  the  comb,  but 
the  majority  are  strongly  in  favor  of  the  single  comb.  Not  having  a 
standard  of  any  kind,  there  are  all  styles  and  varieties  of  combs  and 
feathers. 

It  is  asserted  by  Mr.  Waller  that  the  male  birds  moulted  their  tails 
but  once  in  three  years.  This  is  hardly  credible — to  breed  any  birds 
that  will  moult  less  than  once  a year — but  if  such  is  the  case  there  would 
be  no  reason  why  the  birds  should  not  produce  feathers  of  a wonderful 
length. 

This  breed  is  undoubtedly  a wonderful  variety  to  the  fancy,  but  our 
knowledge  of  it  is  not  sufficient  to  pass  any  further  opinion  on  it.  The 
breeders  in  this  country  are  practically  in  ignorance  of  their  habits  at  the 
present  time,  but  it  would  be  a grand  sight  to  see  a pen  of  these  birds  in 
all  their  wonderful  plumage  and  peculiarities. 


148 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER  S 


The  Naked  Neck  fowls  have  no  attraction  for  the 
Naked  Necks,  fancier,  save  the  oddity  of  their  bare  or  naked  necks. 

They  were  at  first  supposed  to  have  originated  in  Austria, 
where  tradition  points  to  their  origin  as  coming  from  a severe  scald  on 
the  neck,  which  caused  the  loss  of  feathers,  and  this  mark  has  been 
transmitted  to  their  progeny. 

In  size  and  color  they  vary,  as  no  fixed  rules  are  used  in  their 
breeding.  When  exhibiting,  the  birds  which  resemble  each  other  should 
be  chosen,  and  should  be  as  near  alike  in  plumage  as  possible.  These 
birds  are  not  favorites  in  this  country,  nor  do  they  possess  any  qualities 
for  the  practical  breeder.  The  bareness  of  their  necks  causes  aversion 
to  them. 


WILD  TURKEYS. 


NAME  turkey  as  applied  to  our  favorite  fowl,  is  explain- 
able only  upon  the  theory  of  its  Asiatic  origin.  By  the 
French  the  fowl  is  called  dindon  or  dinde,  a contraction 
of  oiseau  a Inde  (bird  of  India.)  The  Greeks  and  Romans 
had  what  they  called  meleagrides  or  Gallinoe  Africaneo,  which  were 
supposed  to  be  the  original  race  of  turkeys,  but  they  were  in  reality 
Guinea  fowls.  The  first  writer  who  mentions  the  American  turkey  is 
believed  to  be  Oviedo,  in  1525,  who  describes  them  under  the  name  of 
peacocks,  commenting  upon  the  vast  number  found  in  the  wild  state  in 
this  country  at  that  early  day  and  their  excellence  as  an  article  of  food. 
Fie  found  them  raised  by  Europeans  in  New  Spain,  whence  they  were 
introduced  into  New  Castile  and  the  West  Indies.  Their  history  and 
discovery,  like  the  history  of  most  breeds  of  domestic  fowls,  are 
involved  in  obscurity,  but  it  is  certain  that  their  origin  is  American. 

Its  popular  and  scientific  names  are  both  unwarranted,  and  arose 
from  a misapprehension  of  what  the  bird  really  was,  some  supposing  it 
to  be  allied  to  the  Guinea  fowl,  and  others  to  the  peacock. 

The  turkey  is  the  most  valuable  domestic  fowl  and  the  successful 
raising  of  them  is  very  profitable  to  the  breeder.  Aside  from  being  the 
largest  of  all  poultry,  its  flesh  is  of  the  finest  and  more  esteemed  than 
any  other.  In  proper  locations  it 
gathers  more  than  half  of  its  living 
from  the  woods.  By  raising  an  early 
brood  a great  saving  is  made,  as  the 
young  will  catch  the  first  crop  of 
grasshoppers,  and  in  this  way  prove 
of  double  value. 

To  successfully  raise  turkeys  you 
must  have  vigorous  birds.  This  is 
more  essential  with  the  turkey  than 
with  any  other  fowl,  as  they  are  very 
susceptible  to  surroundings  and  in- 
fluences, and  inbreeding  is  strenously 
to  be  avoided.  Bad  food  and  neglect 
will  dwarf  their  growth  and  weaken 
their  constitutions,  giving  bad  results 
and  poor  return  to  the  breeder.  To 
maintain  size  is  one  of  the  most  im-  bronze  turkey. 

portant  as  well  as  profitable  points  in  raising  turkeys.  In  selecting  the 
breeding  stock  care  must  be  taken  in 


raising  turkeys 
the  size  of  the  male. 


He  should 


150 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


weigh  from  30  to  35  pounds  and  be  in  perfect  condition.  It  is  not  so 
important  to  have  such  large  females.  If  the  hens  are  in  good  condition 
they  should  weigh  from  15  to  20  pounds.  A good  idea  for  farmers  of 
one  neighborhood  is  to  club  together  and  purchase  a fine  gobler  for 
breeding,  and  select  the  best  hens.  With  care  and  attention  there  would 
soon  be  a marked  improvement  in  their  hardiness  and  size. 

It  is  best  to  breed  from  birds  two  or  three  years  old  as  they  produce 
stronger  and  larger  stock  at  this  age.  The  time  for  setting  the  first  eggs 
is  in  March  or  April,  but  the  character  of  the  season  will  influence  this. 
The  turkey’s  nest  should  be  on  the  bare  ground,  free  from  danger  of 
flooding  during  rain,  and  located  in  some  quiet  place.  While  setting, 

special  care  should  be  taken  that  the 
hens  are  off  their  nests  at  regular 
periods.  As  turkeys  are  patient  setters, 
two  broods  can  be  hatched  by  one 
hen.  A good  plan  is  to  set  all  hens  at 
once,  and  give  the  broods  of  several  to 
one  hen.  This  allows  the  others  to 
return  to  laying.  Turkey  eggs  hatch 
in  28  days.  Wheli  hatched  the  mother 
should  be  confined  in  a roomy  coop, 
with  a slatted  front,  open  to  the  south, 
on  a clean  grass  run.  For  the  first  24 
hours  no  food  is  needed,  as  the  yolk  of 
the  egg  from  which  the  poult  was 
hatched  serves  as  nourishment  for  that 
period.  Be  sure  that  the  hen  and  her 
brood  are  free  from  vermin.  Lice  are 
as  destructive  to  turkeys  as  to  chick- 
ens. Always  dust  with  insect  powder 
before  taking  from  the  nest,  and  if  you 
find  lice  on  the  heads  of  the  poults, 
a mixture  of  two  or  three 


1 ' 


WHITE  HOLLAND  TURKEY. 


For  the  first  four  or  five 
eggs  mixed  with  bread 


rub  a few  drops  of  sweet  oil  on  their  heads,  or 
drops  of  carbolic  acid  in  a teaspoonful  of  oil. 
days  the  food  should  be  light.  Hard  boiled 
crumbs  make  a splendid  food,  and 
should  be  fed  four  or  five  times  a day. 

Curd  made  from  sour  milk,  with 
young  onion  tops  cut  very  fine  and 
mixed  with  it,  is  excellent.  When  - 

the  young  are  a week  old  they  may  be 
given  some  cracked  corn  or  oats,  or 
wheat  grits.  Boiled  Indian  meal  can 
be  used  as  a variety  in  feeding. 

Always  give  fresh,  cold  water  two  or 
three  times  a day,  and  if  possible, 
give  milk  as  an  occasional  drink. 

When  the  young  are  about  three 
weeks  old,  the  old  bird  may  be  let  out 
with  them  every  morning  after  the 
dew  is  off  the  grass,  but  they  should 
be  shut  up  again  every  evening.  The  great  secret  of  turkey  raising  is 
keeping  the  poults  from  being  chilled.  If  they  can  be  kept  dry  until 


NARRAGANSETT  TURKEY. 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


151 


they  have  thrown  out  the  red  on  their  heads,  the  chances  for  success  are 
very  bright,  as  they  have  then  become  quite  hardy  and  may  be  allowed 
to  roam  at  will. 

When  they  get  so  that  they  can  fly  up  to  their  roost  they  should  be 
placed  in  the  turkey  house.  This  house  can  be  built  in  a variety  of 
forms  to  suit  the  builder.  It  should 
be  large  and  roomy,  with  broad 
perches  of  easy  access  from  the 
ground.  They  should'  be  locked  up 
every  night  and  made  secure  against 
dogs,  foxes,  etc.  Feed  every  morn- 
ing and  night  with  a variety  of  food, 
and  they  will  gather  from  the  fields 
and  woods  sufficient  numbers  of 
grasshoppers  and  other  insects  to 
supply  their  noonday  meal. 

A turkey  does  not  attain  its  full 
weight  until  the  third  year.  Gobblers 
that  are  eight  months  sometimes  oscellated  turkey. 

weigh  from  23  to  29  pounds,  and  hens  from  13  to  15.  A great  mistake 
is  made  by  many  when  they  sell  their  largest  birds  and  save  the  smallest 
and  last  hatch  for  breeding  purposes.  This  should  never  be  done  if  you 
wish  to  produce  a large  and  healthy  stock.  A ten  months  cock  weighing 
30  pounds  is  cheaper  at  $50  than  a 20  pound  bird  at  $5  ; young  hens 
weighing  16  to  18  pounds  are  cheaper  at  $20  than  12  pound  ones  at  $5. 
The  large  well  formed  birds  will  leave  their  mark  upon  their  progeny. 

Crested  turkeys  have  been  considered  by  some  naturalists  to  be  a dis- 
tinct species  ; but  all  attempts  to  breed  them  true  to  this  point,  have  failed, 
and  they  must  be  considered  as  merely  accidental,  though  showing  a strong 
relationship  or  affinity  between  the  turkey  and  the  peacock.  The  birds 
that  have  hitherto  been  bred  from  have  failed  to  produce  crested  pro- 
geny. Experiments  have  been  made  by  the  most  skillful  breeders  in 
both  England  and  America  without  any  degree  of  success  ; the  crest  is 
therefore  only  an  accidental  “sport,”  and  the  bird  is  not  a distinct  specie. 

The  American  bronze  turkey  stands  at  the  head  of  the  poultry  race, 
and  is  appropriately  denominated  “the  king  of  domestic  fowls.”  The 
grand  proportions  and  enormous  weight  which  these  birds  reach  in  late 
years  seems  almost  fabulous.  At  two  years  old  many  specimens  have 

weighed  between  35  and  40  pounds,  and 
yearling  gobblers  are  not  uncommon 
that  weigh  from  25  to  30  pounds.  Hen 
turkeys  at  these  ages  will  when  in  full 
breeding  condition,  weigh  18  to  20 
pounds.  This  has  been  effected  through 
judicious  and  wise  selections. 

The  native  wild  turkey  is  still  common 
in  various  parts  of  North  America,  and 
fine  specimens  are  met  with  in  the  West 
and  in  Canada,  while  they  are  still  found 
in  small  numbers  in  the  Middle  and 
Eastern  States.  The  average  size  of  the 
black  turkey.  wild  turkey  is  less  than  that  of  the  do- 

mestic bird.  “The  grand  size  and  beauty  of  this  fowl,”  said  Auduvon, 
“and  its  value  as  a delicate  and  justly  prized  article  of  food,  renders  this 


THE  AMERICAN  FANC  ER’S 


the  most  interesting  of  the  birds  of  the  United  States.  The  flesh  is  more 
delicate  than  that  of  the  domestic  turkey,  and  the  Western  Indians  so 
value  it  that  it  is  called  “the  white  man’s  dish.”  The  plumage  of  the 
North  American  turkey  is  very  brilliant,  being  of  a metallic  bronze  blue, 
which  is  made  up  of  black,  green,  bay  and  brown  feathers.  The  cock  is 
much  tne  more  showily  plumed  ; the  female  being  much  duller  in  feather 
color.  The  Oscellated  or  South  American  wild  turkey,  is  a different 
specie,  and  more  brilliant  in  plumage.  This  bird  is  not  so  well  adapted 
to  our  climate  as  its  North  American  congener,  and  is  almost  unknown 
in  the  United  States  and  Europe,  though  it  was  probably  raised  in 
Mexico  for  centuries  before  the  conquest  of  that  country  by  the  Spaniards, 
since  when  they  invaded  the  land  they  found  it  in  a domestic  state. 


CRESTED  TURKEY. 


The  duck  has  always  been  an  adjunct  to  poultry  on  the  farm,  but 
until  recent  years  duck  raising  has  never  been  considered  a profitable 
enterprise  alone.  Notwithstanding  the  increased  production  of  ducks, 
the  supply  of  this  class  of  poultry  is  insufficient  for  the  demand.  Duck 
culture  is  a comparatively  new  field  for  the  poultryman  ; it  is  one  in 
which  greater  profit  may  be  realized,  for  the  capital  and  labor  required, 
than  any  other  branch  of  the  poultry  business. 

The  most  profitable  method  is  to  combine  duck  and  chicken  raising. 
When  conducted  on  a large  scale  by  artificial  incubation,  the  two 
branches  do  not  conflict  with  each  other,  but  assist  in  maintaining  a 
steady  income  to  the  breeder.  By  adopting  artificial  incubation,  the 
brooding-house  can  be  utilized  for  chicks  in  November  and  December, 
and  in  February,  when  the  chicks  are  removed  from  the  brooders,  the 
buildings  can  then  be  used  for  ducklings.  If  the  chicks  be  kept  for 
roasters,  the  ducklings,  though  six  to  eight  weeks  younger,  will  be  ready 
to  market  about  the  same  time  as  the  chicks.  Earl^  spring  is  the  best 
time  to  market  ducklings,  as  this  is  the  season  when  they  command  the 
highest  price. 

In  hatching  ducks,  the  same  principles  of  incubation  apply  as  for 
chicks.  The  chapter  on  incubation  fully  describes  the  details  for  hatch- 
ing chicks,  and  is  also  applicable  for  hatching  ducks.  When  natural 
incubation  is  used,  dependence  is  placed  in  the  hen,  and  you  will  have  to 
await  her  inclination  to  set. 

Ducks  are  hardier  and  not  subject  to  as  many  ailments  as  chicks, 
hence  are  easier  cared  for  and  comparatively  free  from  disease,  which 
often  causes  sad  havoc  in  broods  of  chicks.  The  duck,  when  confined  in 
runs,  is  constantly  on  the  move,  keeping  up  an  incessant  exercise  from 
morning  till  night.  This  activity  is  advantageous  to  the  health  of  the 
fowl,  and  especially  adapts  it  to  confinement.  Rains,  snows  and  cold 
weather  are  detrimental  to  the  chick,  extra  care  being  necessary  to  keep 
it  warm  and  dry. 

It  is  quite  different  with  the  duck  during  wet  weather.  The  heavy 
feathering  protects  it  from  the  cold,  and  enables  it  to  thrive  at  the  reason 
of  the  year  when  profits  are  most  remunerative,  and  snow  and  rain  are  its 
delight.  Ducks  must  be  provided  dry  quarters  at  night  by  placing  straw 


154 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


or  dry  earth  on  the  floor  of  the  duck  house,  which  should  be  removed 
when  it  becomes  damp  from  the  droppings  and  replaced  with  dry  bed- 
ding. Although  ducks  are  very  hardy,  there  is  nothing  which  will  intro- 
duce disease  quicker  than  damp  bedding.  It  is  imperative  that  ducks 
have  dry  bedding,  if  the  greatest  success  is  to  be  attained.  Cold  feet 
with  the  duck  has  the  same  effect  as  a frozen  comb  on  the  chick,  it 
hinders  and  often  entirely  stops  egg  production. 

The  supposition  that  ducks  could  only  be  successfully  bred  where 
water  was  supplied  for  bathing  purposes  is  a mistaken  idea,  for  good 
results  have  been  obtained  where  ducks  have  been  kept  in  confinement, 
with  only  sufficient  water  for  drinking  purposes.  When  confined  the 
duck  must  be  supplied  with  an  abundance  of  green  and  soft  foods. 

A duck  house  should  be  built  on  a location  having  good 
drainage  ; it  should  be  constructed  plain,  warm  and  convenient,  and 
made  proof  against  rats,  weasels,  minks  and  other  destructive  vermin. 

The  plan  shown  in  Fig.  i (page  124),  is  20x25  feet,  and  will  nicely 
accommodate  a flock  of  fifty  ducks.  It  is  four  feet  high  in  front  and 
seven  feet  high  in  rear,  with  two  windows  in  front  facing  south.  The 
door  may  be  placed  in  either  end  of  the  house.  The  only  interior 
arrangement  of  a duck  house  is  the  nests,  which  should  be  placed  on  the 
floor.  The  nests  should  be  large  and  roomy,  about  16  inches  wide,  18 
inches  long  and  12  inches  high,  with  a strip  four  inches  wide  nailed  on 
front  to  hold  the  nesting  material  in  place. 

The  house  as  described  above  can  be  built  in  rows,  if  it  be  desired 
to  keep  more  than  one  flock.  The  runs  should  be  80  to  100  feet  long, 
separated  by  mesh-wire  fencing.  In  building' these  houses  a passage  the 
entire  length  of  the  building  should  be  made  for  feeding  and  watering 
purposes.  This  passage  way  is  five  feet  wide,  and  separated  from  the 
houses  by  a mesh-wire  partition.  The  feed  troughs  and  water  fountains 
are  placed  in  the  passage,  as  shown  in  ground  plan,  Fig.  2.  A perspec- 
tive drawing  of  houses  without  runs  is  shown  in  Fig.  3. 

The  food  of  ducks  should  consist  mainly  of  meat,  vegetables  and 
grasses,  with  a small  ration  of  grain  during  the. middle  of  the  day.  The 
wild  duck  obtains  its  food  from  brooks,  ponds  and  water  fronts,  and 
consists  chiefly  of  grasses,  roots,  flags,  small  fish  and  various  kinds  of 
water  insects.  This  class  of  food  should  be  supplied  the  domesticated 
duck  in  confinement  in  preference  to  hard  grain  diet.  The  duck  has  no 
crop;  the  small  duct  or  passage  leads  from  its  throat  direct  to  its  gizzard. 

During  cold  weather  they  should  be  fed  three  times  a day.  The 
morning  and  evening  meals  should  be  a mash  of  wheat  bran  and  corn 
meal,  mixed  with  boiled  turnips,  potatoes  or  cabbage,  and  a small  quan- 
tity of  ground  meat.  At  noon  cracked  corn,  wheat  and  oats  should  be 
fed.  Cabbage  leaves  and  turnip  tops  thrown  in  the  pens  between  meals 
will  be  relished  by  the  ducks.  Provide  a small  patch  of  green  rye  when 
convenient.  Do  not  leave  any  food  in  the  troughs  to  sour.  Feed  only 
as  much  as  the  birds  will  eat  up  clean. 

An  excellent  food  consists  of  a mash  of  cooked  turnips  or  potatoes, 
with  one-third  corn  meal  or  wheat  screenings  added,  to  be  fed  three 
times  a day  until  the  ducklings  are  three  weeks  old.  Fresh  fish,  grass 
and  herbage  is  an  agreeable  diet  for  ducklings.  Skimmed  or  sour  milk 
may  be  mixed  with  the  mash , but  should  never  be  given  as  drink.  Ducklings 
should  be  kept  in  warm,  dry  coops.  The  coops  should  be  closed  early 
at  night  and  opened  late  in  the  morning.  Until  they  are  a month  old, 
the  ducklings  should  be  allowed  to  remain  only  a short  time  at  intervals 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


155 


in  the  water,  for  too  long  bathing  produces  cramps  when  young.  Cold 
dews  and  showers  will  stunt  them  at  this  age,  and,  like  young  turkeys, 
they  seldom  recover  from  the  effects  of  the  chill. 

The  Mallard  or  Wild  Duck  is  conceded  by  natur- 
The  Mallard  Duck,  alists  to  be  the  parent  of  our  farm  breeds  of  ducks., 
The  range  of  the  Mallard  is  throughout  the  entire 
continent  of  Europe  and  North  America;  in  summer  its  range  is  the 
extreme  north  and  in  winter  to  the  torrid  zone.  The  plumage  of  the 
Mallard  drake  is  dense  and  elastic,  and  beautifully  colored.  The  bill  is 
greenish  yellow,  feet,  reddish  orange,  and  claws  deep  reddish  brown; 
head  and  neck,  deep  green,  changing  to  violet  ; on  the  middle  of  the  neck 
is  a ring  of  white  ; the  lower  neck  and  a small  portion  of  the  breast  a 
deep  chestnut,  or  purplish  brown  ; the  back  is  yellowish  brown,  tinged 
with  gray  ; the  hind  part  of  back,  brownish  black  ; rump,  deep  green,  as 
are  the  recurved  feathers  of  the  tail,  the  rest  being  brownish  gray,  broadly 
edged  with  white  ; the  wing-coverts,  the  primary  quills  and  coverts, 
brownish  gray  ; the  secondary  coverts  are  white  in  the  middle,  with  a 
terminal  band  of  velvet  black  ; about  ten  of  the  secondaries  have  the  outer 
webs  brilliant  deep  green,  changing  to  purplish  blue,  with  a black  bar 
at  the  ends,  succeeded  with  white  ; the  outer  edge  of  the  inner  second- 
aries are  deep  purplish  brown,  the  rest  gray  ; the  breast,  sides  and  abdo- 
men are  grayish  white,  minutely  undulated  with  dark  gray  ; the  feathers 
under  the  tail  are  black,  glossed  with  blue  ; lower  wing  coverts  are  white. 

The  female  is  smaller  than  the  male,  with  a greenish  gray  bill,  and 
dusky  brown  feathers,  edged  with  pale  reddish  brown  ; a white  throat, 
the  lower  part  of  which  is  yellowish  gray,  spotted  with  brown.  The 
female  renews  its  plumage  every  autumn,  as  does  also  the  male.  The 
latter  undergoes  another  change  in  the  summer,  when  he  assumes  a 
plumage  like  that  of  his  mate,  though  of  darker  hue.  By  October  he  is 
clothed  with  a new  coat  of  feathers  and  is  through  moulting  for  the 
second  time. 

This  duck  receives  its  name  from  Aylesburg,  a 
The  Aylesburg  Duck,  county  town  of  Buckinghamshire,  England.  The 
plumage  of  the  Aylesburg  is  pure  white  through- 
out. There  is  no  difference  in  the  plumage  of  the  sexes,  except  the 
curled  feathers  in  the  tail  of  the  drake,  indicative  of  his  descent  from  the 
Mallard.  The  head  is  long  and  neatly  formed  ; eyes  of  a deep  leaden 
blue  color  ; bill  of  pale  flesh  color  or  pinkish  hue  ; neck  slender,  long 
and  gracefully  curved,  body,  long  and  canoe  shaped,  with  a round,  full 
breast  ; shanks  are  brilliant  light  orange  color  ; wings  strong  and  nicely 
folded  ; back  is  long  and  broad. 

The  Aylesburg  duck  is  very  popular  in  America  and  occupies  a 
prominent  place  among  its  class.  Their  weights  are  : drake,  nine  pounds; 
duck,  eight  pounds.  Pairs  have  been  exhibited  that  weighed  eighteen 
pounds. 

This  variety  of  duck  has  long  been  known  under 

The  Black  the  various  names  of  Black  East  Indian,  Buenos 
Ayres,  Black  Labrador  and  the  Black  Brazilian.  It 
East  Indian  Duck,  is  very  handsome  and  is  really  the  bantam  of  its  class 
and  is  bred  for  small  size  and  iridescent  plumage. 

The  head  is  short  ; the  bill  is  short  and  dark  yellowish  green  in  color; 
the  neck  is  short  and  neatly  curved  ; back,  broad  in  length  and  medium 
in  width  ; breast,  round  and  plump  ; body,  long  and  slender  ; wings, 


156 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


small  and  nicely  folded  ; tail,  short  with  two  recurved  feathers  in  drake  ; 
thighs,  short  ; shanks  are  short  and  nearly  black  in  color.  The  plumage 
throughout  is  black,  with  a rich  green  luster.  In  size  the  drake  seldom 
exceeds  two  and  one-half  pounds,  and  the  duck  two  pounds. 

There  are  two  distinct  varieties  of  the  Call  Duck — the 
The  Call  Duck,  gray  and  white.  In  size  and  shape  they  are  almost 
identical,  and  are  smaller  than  the  common  duck.  As 
the  name  implies,  this  variety  is  noted  for  its  loud  and  continuous  quack- 
ing in  a shrill  note  ; this  characteristic  renders  it  valuable  to  sportsmen 
as  decoy.  In  color  the  white  variety  is  spotless  white  throughout. 

The  Gray,  both  male  and  female,  is  similar  to  the  Rouen  in  plumage. 
It  is  very  sprightly  and  is  becoming  popular  among  duck  fanciers.  It  is 
small  in  size  and  belongs  to  the  bantam  class. 

This  duck  has  been  bred  in  this  country  so  long  that 
The  Black  all  trace  of  its  origin  is  lost.  Tradition  says  that  it 
descended  from  a sort  of  wild  duck  that  stopped  in  Cay- 
Cayuga  Duck,  uga  and  Seneca  river  on  its  flight  north  and  south,  in 
fall  and  spring,  yet  no  specimens  have  been  seen  which 
closely  resembles  it  in  weight  or  color.  It  is  sometimes  called  the  Black 
River  duck,  Cayuga  or  Lake  duck. 

There  existed  in  England,  many  years  ago,  a large  black  duck, which, 
it  is  said,  was  closely  allied  to  the  Cayuga,  if  not  identical  with  it.  It  is 
probable  that  a black  variety  might  have  sprung  from  the  Mallard,  both 
in  England  and  in  this  country.  This  would  not,  of  course,  detract  at  all 
from  America’s  honor  in  originating  the  Cayuga.  It  is  distinctly  an 
American  production,  and  combines,  in  a marked  degree,  -many  excellent 
qualities,  with  so  very  few  faults,  that  it  is  worthy  of  the  fostering  care 
of  American  breeders.  If  proper  care  be  taken  in  the  selection  of  breed- 
ing stock,  if  size  be  increased  and  hardiness  maintained,  there  is  reason 
to  believe  that  there  will  be  a greater  demand  for  this  stock  at  home 
and  abroad. 

The  Cayuga  duck  of  to-day  possesses  a glossy,  black  head,  dark 
hazel  eyes,  a dark  or  black  bill  ; a gracefully  curving  neck,  clad  in  black 
feathers,  with  a greenish  luster  ; a long,  broad  back  and  a long  finely 
shaped  and  plump  body,  both  a glossy  black  hue  ; long,  well  folded 
black  wings,  the  primaries  of  the  duck  sometimes  being  a dark  brown 
and  the  coverts  of  the  drake  very  lustrous  green  black  ; the  tail  feathers 
black,  and  black  is  also  preferred  for  the  shanks,  though  dark  slate  is 
permissible.  In  the  sunlight  the  back  and  wings  often  throw  purple 
reflections.  The  plumage  throughout,  when  in  the  best  condition, 
should  be  glossy  black  in  parts,  with  green  reflections. 

The  average  weight  of  Cayuga  ducks,  per  pair,  is  from  12  to  14 
pounds,  but  as  they  fatten  readily,  they  can  be  made  to  attain  a weight 
of  17  to  18  pounds  per  pair.  By  avoiding  too  close  breeding,  and  care- 
fully selecting  specimens  for  breeding,  the  Cayuga  maybe  made  to  weigh 
as  much  as  the  Rouen  or  Aylesburg. 

The  Cayuga  is  extremely  hardy,  and  ranks  among  the  best  layers, 
producing  eighty  or  ninety  eggs  in  the  spring  and  sometimes  laying  in 
the  autumn.  The  flesh  of  the  Cayuga  is  considered  by  competent  judges 
to  be  of  the  highest  quality.  Care  in  feeding  must  be  taken,  as  it  fattens 
easily  and  has  a tendency  to  get  down  behind. 

They  are  quiet  and  mild  in  disposition,  rarely  able  to  fly,  a foot  board 
being  sufficient  to  restrain  them. 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


157 


Among  the  interesting  specimens  of  ducks,  the  Crested 
The  Crested  White  holds  a conspicuous  position.  It  can  be  considered 
in  the  heavy  class,  the  drake  weighing  seven  and  the  duck 
White  Duck.  six  pounds.  It  has  a medium  sized  head  and  rather  slen- 
der, long  neck  ; well  rounded  breast  and  medium  broad 
back.  The  bill  is  yellow  ; shanks  are  short  and  light  orange  in  color  ; 
toes  are  straight  and  same  color  as  shanks.  In  plumage  they  are  pure 
white  throughout.  The  peculiarity  of  its  name  is  from  the  large  white 
crest  on  its  head,  which  resembles  that  of  the  Polish  fowl,  which  makes 
it  very  pretty. 

The  Pekin  is  the  favorite  duck  in  this  country.  The 
The  Pekin  Duck,  first  breed  originally  came  from  Pekin,  China,  the 
first  importation  being  made  in  1873.  The  weight  of 
the  drake  is  eight  and  the  duck  seven  pounds.  In  plumage  it  is  downy 
and  the  color  a faint  creamy  white  throughout.  The  head  of  both  drake 
and  duck  is  long;  bill,  deep  yellow  in  color  and  medium  in  size;  eyes, 
leaden  blue  in  color;  the  neck  of  drake  is  thick  and  long;  in  the  duck  it 
is  of  medium  length  ; back,  broad  ; breast,  full  ; the  body  is  very  long 
and  deep ; wings,  short,  which  renders  it  easy  for  confinement  ; shanks 
are  strong,  and  reddish  orange  in  color. 

The  Pekin  duck  is  a prolific  layer,  hardy,  easy  to  breed  and  not  over 
fond  of  water. 

This  duck  bears  a close  resemblance  to  the  Wild  or 
The  Rouen  Duck.  Mallard  duck  in  its  plumage,  though  domestication 
has  lost  the  light  and  graceful  shape  of  its  ancestor, 
it  being  heavier  in  build  and  fattens  with  greater  aptitude.  It  came 
originally  from  the  city  of  Rouen,  in  Normandy,  as  its  name  indicates. 
It  is  very  hardy,  and  fattens  readily.  The  drake  should  have  a clear 
yellow  bill,  with  a slight  greenish  tint ; a bright  yellow  is  objectionable, 
and  on  the  other  hand  a leaden  color  is  a very  bad  defect.  The  bill 
should  come  straight  down  from  the  skull,  like  that  of  the  woodcock, 
and  be  broad  and  long.  The  head  is  a rich  green,  glossed  with  purple, 
which  extends  down  the  neck,  around  which  is  a collar  or  ring  of  pure 
white,  not  quite  meeting  at  the  back.  The  breast  is  a rich,  deep  claret, 
extending  well  down  below  the  water  line,  and  then  passes  into  the  deli- 
cate French  gray  of  the  under  parts,  which  extends  to  the  tail.  The 
back  is  a rich  greenish  black,  the  curls  in  the  tail  being  a dark  green. 
The  wings  are  grayish  brown,  with  a “ribbon  mark”  across  them,  which 
should  be  a very  bright  and  distinct  blue,  edged  with  white.  The  flights 
are  gray  and  brown,  and  the  legs  are  a rich  orange.  The  appearance  of 
the  drake  should  be  commanding. 

The  bill  of  the  duck  is  not  quite  so  large  as  that  of  the  drake,  and  is 
of  an  orange  color,  nearly  black,  two-thirds  down  from  the  head.  The 
color  changes  during  the  laying  season  to  a dirty  brown,  and  sometimes 
it  becomes  nearly  black  all  over.  The  head  is  brown,  with  two  distinct 
lined  shades  running  down  one  each  side  from  the  eye  to  the  darker 
part  of  the  neck.  The  breast  is  brown,  penciled  over  with  dark  brown, 
almost  black.  The  wing  has  a ribbon  mark  as  in  the  drake,  and  the  legs 
are  like  his,  orange,  but  generally  of  a duller  tinge.  The  Rouen  is  an 
excellent  layer,  and  the  most  profitable  breeder  for  the  farmer. 

This  duck  is  sometimes  called  the  Carolina  duck. 
The  Wood  Duck.  It  is  found  in  nearly  every  section  of  North  America, 
being  found  in  the  southern  portion  in  the  winter  and 
migrating  to  the  north  in  summer.  It  is  the  most  beautiful  variety  of 


158 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER  S 


the  web-footed  family,  if  we  except  its  cousin,  the  Mandarin  duck.  It  is 
bred  for  its  wonderful  beauty.  Its  name  is  derived  from  its  character- 
istic of  building  its  nest  in  a hollow  tree.  Its  eggs  are  small  and  smooth 
on  surface,  like  polished  ivory. 

The  drake  is  about  twenty  inches  long,  with  a green  head,  glossed 
with  purple  and  surmounted  with  a pendant  crest  or  plume  of  green, 
bronze  and  velvet ; the  upper  part  of  the  throat  is  white  ; the  breast 
chestnut  ; the  sides  yellowish,  banded  with  black,  the  lower  parts  being 
nearly  white  ; the  wings  and  tails  have  black,  white,  purple  and  blue  in 
bands,  spots  and  shadings.  The  plumage  is  rather  dull,  not  so  showy 
as  the  duck  and  from  June  to  September  the  drake  is  more  plainly  attired. 

The  White  Muscovy  duck  has  some  peculiar 
The  fluscovy  Duck,  characteristics,  being  long  and  large*  in  common 
with  its  cousins,  the  colored  Muscovies  having 
longer  wings  and  tails  than  any  other  breed  of  ducks.  The  color,  as  the 
name  indicates,  is  pure  white  in  all  the  plumage.  The  bill  is  short  in 
proportion  to  the  size  of  the  body,  and,  being  wide  at  the  base,  it 
appears  stout ; is  of  pink  color  ; not  the  same  as  the  legs,  those  being 
yellow.  The  bird  appears  long,  owing  partly  to  the  length  of  tail,  yet 
there  is  a breadth  of  breast  and  body  which  prevents  an  appearance  of 
slimness  ; neither  is  the  neck  long  in  proportion  to  the  body.  The  drake 
is  considerably  larger  than  the  duck,  so  that  the  sex  may  be  easily  dis- 
tinguished at  a distance.  The  head  of  the  drake  is  large  and  surmounted 
with  a crest  ; this  crest  rises  and  falls  when  the  bird  is  frightened  or 
attacked.  Another  feature,  which  is  quite  ornamental  when  contrasted 
with  the  white  plumage,  is  the  red  face  and  scarlet  earbuncles  at  the  base 
of  the  bill.  These  become  enlarged  with  age.  The  comb  and  wattle 
are  bright  red,  and  full-in  time  of  health,  while  exhaustion  from  laying 
or  any  other  cause  makes  them  turn  dark  colored  and  shrunken.  Mus- 
covy ducks  perch  like  pigeons,  and  can  fly  a considerable  distance  with 
ease,  their  long  wings  giving  them  this  advantage  over  other  species  of 
domestic  ducks.  This  variety  is  sometimes  known  as  the  “Musk  duck,” 
owing  to  the  peculiar  odor  of  the  bird  in  the  feather,  which,  however,  is 
not  traceable  when  it  is  dressed  for  the  table. 

The  Mandarin  duck  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
The  Mandarin  Duck,  birds  among  water  fowls.  It  is  sometimes  called 
the  “Fan-winged”  duck,  from  the  peculiar  shape 
of  a portion  of  its  wings,  which  rises  over  the  back  in  the  shape  of  a 
lady’s  fan.  The  head  has  a crest,  falling  gracefully  back  on  the  neck. 
The  color  of  the  body  plumage  is  very  fine  and  uniform  in  this  curious 
variety — considered  in  China  the  prettiest  of  the  duck  class. 

Mr.  Haight,  an  observant  traveler  in  China,  says  that  “We  in  Amer- 
ica call  the  ducks  of  China  by  names  unlike  those  used  by  the  Chinese. 
What  we  call  the  Pekin  duck  is  called  by  the  Chinese  in  the  north  the 
Mandarin  duck,  from  the  fact  that  they  are  kept  in  large  numbers  by 
the  Mandarins  at  Peikn  and  throughout  the  northern  provinces.  What 
we  call  the  Mandarin  is  a wild  duck,  large  numbers  of  which  are  found 
in  the  north  of  China,  and  are  called  by  the  Chinese  simply ‘wild  ducks/ 
They  perch  on  trees,  except  during  the  moulting  period,  when  they  nest 
among  the  leaves  on  the  ground.  They  are  capable  of  being  domesti- 
cated, and  large  numbers  are  sent  to  southern  China  for  this  purpose.” 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


15i) 


It  is  said  that  they  dwell  mostly  in  pairs,  and  are  so  greatly  attached 
to  their  original  .companions  that  they  do  not  usually  mate  a second 
time  if  either  be  killed.  This  statement  is  probably  more  romantic  than 
truthful.  In  habits  it  is  much  like  our  American  Wood  (or  Summer) 
duck — shy,  timid  and  secretive.  But  it  is  handsome,  and  for  a variety 
make  a very  beautiful  and  ornamental  water  fowl  for  pond  or  artificial 
lake.  As  regards  size,  it  is  about  that  of  the  American  Teal. 


The  conditions  for  raising  geese  differ  somewhat  from  those 
employed  for  other  varieties  of  poultry.  The  hen  and  duck  may  be 
successfully  raised  in  confinement,  but  the  goose  requires  free  range, 
water,  and  green  pastures  to  thrive.  Those  having  these  facilities  can- 
not fail  to  make  goose  raising  profitable.  The  expense  for  food  is  small, 
when  compared  with  the  cost  of  fowls  in  confinement,  while  the  profits 
add  much  to  the  breeder’s  income. 

There  are  many  places  on  a farm,  worthless  for  cultivation,  that 
could  be  utilized  with  splendid  results  for  a goose  pasture.  In  locating 
a place  for  geese,  have  it  near  water — an  unused  spring  or  branch  will 
be  a paradise  for  the  birds. 

GeeSe  are  long-lived  birds.  They  retain  their  laying  and  hatching 
qualities  through  life,  which  makes  them  a bird  of  profit.  They  attain 
great  age  ; birds  of  forty  are  by  no  means  rare,  while  those  of  twenty 
are  often  seen.  The  ganders,  however,  should  not  be  kept  beyond  two 
or  three  years,  as  they  become  quarrelsome  and  unproductive  after 
that  age. 

In  mating  there  should  be  one  gander  for  every  three  or  four  geese. 
Geese  should  be  plucked  about  three  times  a year,  and  should  yield  an 
average  of  one  pound  of  feathers  for  each  bird.  The  feathers  should  be 
plucked  when  there  is  no  blood  in  the  ends  of  the  quills,  or  when  the 
feathers  come  off  without  hard  pulling. 

Almost  all  varieties  of  geese  are  good  sitters,  and  need  only  ordi- 
nary precautions  in  setting  them  to  insure  favorable  results.  After  lay- 
ing a dozen  eggs,  they  feather  their  nests  in  a manner  almost  identical 
with  that  employed  by  their  wild  congeners,  and  at  once  commence  the 
duties  of  incubation.  After  a few  days’  trial  the  eggs  may  be  given  the 
sitter  and  little  care  is  needed  for  the  next  month,  during  which  she  will 
sit  quietly,  provided  she  is  not  too  much  annoyed  and  interfered  with. 

At  the  end  of  a month  the  goslings  will  appear  in  good  shape  to 
begin  life  on  their  own  account.  For  the  first  day  or  two  they  require 
only  the  same  diet  of  boiled  egg  and  bread  crumbs  as  chicks  of  any 
domestic  fowl  receive,  with,  perhaps,  the  addition  of  a little  tender 
grass,  cut  fine,  on  the  second  day.  In  the  course  of  a few  days  they  will 
become  strong  enough  to  commence  investigations  of  the  near  neigh- 
borhood, and  may  be  transferred  from  the  nest  to  a coop,  slatted  up  so 
that  the  old  goose  will  be  confined  while  the  openings  between  the 
slats  will  permit  the  goslings  to  pass  in  and  out  freely. 


160 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


When  the  goslings  appear  to  have  gained  sufficient  strength  for 
longer  explorations,  the  mother  may  be  given  her  liberty,  when  she  will 
lead  her  flock  all  over  the  pastures,  and  may  be  trusted  to  care  for  them 
unassisted  by  her  owner.  Geese  left  at  large  in  this  way  will  thrive  and 
grow  fat  simply  on  what  they  can  pick  up  suited  to  their  taste  on  almost 
any  uncultivated  meadow.  Grass  and  various  wild  plants  furnish  their 
staple  food  from  April  until  November,  at  which  time  their  yoiing  are 
ready  for  market. 

Geese  should  be  fed  like  ducks,  the  animal  and  vegetable  food  pre- 
dominating, with  a small  proportion  of  grain  food  during  the  middle  of 
the  day.  Mashes  of  bran  and  corn  meal,  with  cooked  vegetables,  should 
be  fed  morning  and  night.  Grasses,  green  rye  and  green  vegetables 
will  be  of  advantage  to  the  birds. 

Plans  for  building  a suitable  house  for  geese  is  showm  in  the  illus- 
tration ; and  when  only  a few  ducks  are  kept,  the  same  building  will 


HOUSE  FOR  WATER  FOWL. 

also  do  for  geese.  It  is  arranged  in  the  interior  like  the  house  for  ducks, 
previously  described  in  this  chapter.  The  roof  is  changed  in  this  plan, 
but  the  plain  simple  shed  roof  may  be  substituted  if  desired. 

Our  Common  goose,  the  Embden,  Toulouse  and  Sebas- 
The  Gray=Lag  topol,  are  supposed  to  have  descended  from  the  Gray- 
Lag  goose  of  northern  Europe.  The  wild  goose  of 
Goose.  America  is  the  Canada  goose,  which  has  been  domesti- 
cated to  a limited  extent,  but  has  not  become  the  parent 
of  any  distinct  variety  or  family  of  geese.  Another  species  of  the  wild  bird 
represented  in  domestication,  is  the  knobbed  variety  of  Chinese  geese. 
Other  wild  specimens  are  the  Egyptian  goose,  the  Beau-goose,  Pink- 
footed goose  of  Britain,  and  the  Snow-goose  of  North  America. 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


161 


Mr.  Darwin,  in  his  variations  of  animals  and 
The  Common  Goose,  plants,  treats  on  the  antiquity  of  geese  at  great 
length.  He  says  that  “The  Common  goose  is  one 
of  the  most  anciently  domesticated  of  fowls,  as  shown  by  the  fact  that  it 
was  mentioned  as  being  in  domestication  by  Homer,  and  that  geese 
were  kept  in  the  Capitol  of  Rome,  388  b.  c.,  as  sacred  to  Juno  ; this 
sacredness  implying  great  antiquity.” 

The  male  and  female  of  the  wild  Gray-Lag  goose  are  of  a dusky 
hue,  while  the  gander  of  the  tame  species  is  generally  pure  white,  and 
the  goose  dusky  on  the  wings. 

The  average  weight  of  this  variety  of  geese  is 
The  Toulouse  Goose,  twenty  pounds  each  for  gander  and  goose.  In 
color  of  plumage  they  are  a dull  gray,  without 
penciling  ; the  underparts  extending  to  the  vent  are  dingy  white  in 
color  ; also  the  wing  and  tail  quills  have  an  edging  of  the  same  color  ; 
this  marking,  in  a subdued  shade  extends  over  the  edge  of  each  feather 
above  the  thighs  and  on  the  back  at  the  base  of  the  neck.  The  head, 
back  part  of  neck  and  wing  quills  are  a dark,  rich  gray,  and  the  breast  a 
lighter  shade.  In  shape,  they  are  squarely  built  and  compact  in  form  ; 
heads,  large  ; necks,  medium  in  length  and  carried  upright  ; legs,  short, 
the  lower  parts  of  the  birds  nearly  touching  the  ground. 

This  beautiful  bird  is  named  from  Embden,  in 
The  Embden  Goose.  Westphalia.  Its  plumage  is  a pure  white  ; the  bill 
is  a dark  flesh  color  and  its  legs  and  feet  are  of  a 
dark  orange  ; the  eyes  are  of  a bright  blue.  In  carriage  they  are  very  tall 
and  erect,  with  fine  square  bodies,  which,  in  fat  specimens,  touch  the 
ground.  They  grow  very  heavy.  Ganders  have  been  know*n  to  weigh 
as  much  as  thirty  pounds  at  three  years  ; and  a goose  of  the  same  age 
weighed  twenty-six  pounds.  A good  weight  for  a breeding  bird  is 
twenty  pounds. 

The  eggs  of  the  Embden  geese  are  white  in  color,  very  large,  and 
rough  in  shell,  which  is  extremely  thick. 

This  variety  somewhat  resembles  the  Frizzled 
The  Sebastopol  Goose,  fowl  ; Us  peculiar  plumage  alone  distinguishing 

it  from  the  Common  goose.  They  are  pure  white 
in  color  ; their  feathers  have  the  appearance  of  growing  the  wrong  way, 
and  are  very  long  and  gracefully  curved,  being  very  thin  near  the  quill. 
Mr.  Wright,  speaking  of  them,  says  : “While  the  feathers  of  the  Frizzled 
birds  have  considerable  strength,  and  are,  a*s  a rule,  properly  webbed, 
those  of  the  Sebastopol  geese  are  very  weak,  and  partially  destitute  of 
adhesion  in  the  barbules,  thus  resembling  in  a considerable  degree  those 
of  a Silky  fowl,  and  being,  in  fact,  midway  in  character  between  the 
Silky  and  the  Frizzled.  There  is,  however,  a special  peculiarity  in  these 
feathers,  in  that  the  stems  of  the  feathers  are  in  many  places  themselves 
slit  up  into  narrow  filaments,  which  are  furnished  with  barbules,  and  for 
the  time  resemble,  therefore,  the  barbs  rather  than  the  stem.  Further 
up,  these  barbs  often  unite  again  to  form  a proper  stem,  thus  presenting 
a variation  from  the  normal  type  of  stem  precisely  opposite  in  character 
to  that  of  the  Sonnerat  Jungle  Fowl.”  •<' 

These  geese  have  been  known  in  this  country  for 
The  African  Goose,  about  twenty-five  or  thirty  years,  but  have  not 
become  as  popular  as  some  of  the  other  varieties. 
They  are  not  as  productive  as  the  Embden  or  Toulouse  ; in  weight  they 


162 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


equal  the  Embden,  and  average  between  forty  and  fifty  pounds  per  pair. 
For  crossing  with  the  Common  goose  they  give  size,  and  the  progeny 
are  quiet  and  productive.  In  color  they  are  gray,  resembling  the  Tou- 
louse, but  it  is  distinguished  by  the  black,  horny  knob  at  the  base  of  the 
upper  mandible. 

This  variety  is  sometimes  called  the  Knobbed 
The  Chinese  Goose,  goose,  and  Hong  Kong  goose,  owing  to  the  protu- 
berance or  knob  at  the  base  of  the  bill,  like  that  of 
the  African  goose.  In  appearance  it  resembles  the  swan.  In  range  it  is 
known  throughout  China,  the  greater  part  of  Asia  and  in  portions  of 
Africa.  It  is  stated,  on  the  best  authority,  that  the  common  domestic 
goose  of  India  is  a hybrid  between  this  goose  ancl  the  Gray-Lag.  In 
size  it  is  between  the  common  goose  and  the  swan  ; pairs  average  about 
thirty  pounds.  They  are  very  prolific,  more  so  than  any  other  variety 
of  their  family.  They  lay  about  thirty  eggs  before  desiring  to  sit,  and 
sometimes  lay  three  or  four  litters  in  one  season.  Their  eggs  are  about 
two-thirds  the  size  of  those  of  the  Common  goose.  The  color  of  their 
plumage  is  a grayish-brown  on  the  back  and  upper  parts,  passing  to 
white  or  whitish  gray  on  the  abdomen  ; fore  part  of  the  neck  and  breast 
a yellowish  gray,  and  a very  dark  brown  stripe  running  down  the  entire 
back  of  the  neck  from  the  head  to  the  back.  The  white  variety  is  pure 
white  throughout. 

This  species  is  related  to  the  semi-palmated 
The  Spur=Winged  Goose,  goose,  which  is  a large,  striking-looking  bird, 

glossy,  greenish-black,  with  the  shoulders, 
rump,  breast  and  abdomen  pure  white,  and  its  voice  is  said  to  be  a loud 
whistle.  The  Spur-Winged  goose,  as  its  name  indicates,  is  provided 
with  a long  spur ; the  legs  are  rather  high,  and  placed  well  under  the 
body.  There  are  three  or  four  species  of  the  genus,  one  of  which,  from 
eastern  Africa,  with  the  high  frontal  knob,  is  illustrated  on  page  3. 

Dr.  G.  Bennett,  in  a letter  to  Mr.  Gould,  says : “The  simi-palmated 
goose  I have  seen  domesticated  in  Sydney  in  a poultry  yard,  having 
been  hatched  by  a common  hen.  This  bird  in  anatomy  and  habits 
evidently  approaches  the  cranes.  Especially  when  you  see  it  running 
about  the  yard,  it  resembles  a crane  more  than  a goose.  The  black  and 
white  plumage  imparts  to  the  bird  a very  handsome  appearance  as  it 
walks  with  a stately  tread  (not  with  the  waddling  gait  of  a goose)  about 
the  yard  of  my  house,  like  one  of  the  waders.  They  are  easily  tamed, 
and  are  very  amicable  to  other  poultry,  but  require  company  in  order  to 
thrive.  The  flesh,  however,  is  coarse  and  not  well-flavored.  It  inhabits 
southern,  southeastern  and  northern  Australia,  but  seems  to  have 
been  driven  away  from  the  southern  parts  by  the  progress  of  cultivation. 
In  Dr.  Lichardt’s  time  they  were  numerous  and  the  flocks  so  dense  in 
the  north  that  the  natives  were  enabled  to  procure  numbers  of  them  by 
spearing  them  when  flying.” 

The  knobless  variety,  which  inhabits  the  western  and  southern  por- 
tions, Mr.  F.  Ayres  says,  “is  rated  as  the  commonest  of  wild  geese.  The 
flesh  of  this  species  is  by  no  means  good  eating,  as  the  flesh  is  coarse 
and  tasteless,  and  the  young  birds  have  scarcely  any  meat  on  them. 
Sometimes  they  are  very  shy  and  at  others  absurdly  tame  ; as  a rule,  it 
requires  heavy  shot  to  kill  them.  They  come  out  early  in  the  morning 
from  the  swamps  and  reeds  to  feed  on  the  grass  seeds,  and  are  often 
seen  on  the  farmer’s  corn  lands.  If  stalked  in  the  long  grass,  they  will 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


163 


invariably  creep  away,  instead  of  taking  to  wing,  as  they  run  at  a good 
pace  ; and  by  the  time  the  hunter  is  on  the  spot  expecting  them  to  rise, 
he  sometimes  sees  the  head  of  one  a couple  of  hundred  yards  off  examining 
the  situation.  If  the  hunter  squats  when  the  birds  are  flying,  they  will 
often  come  and  have  a look  at  him,  and  this  curiosity  costs  many  their 
lives.  As  a rule,  they  are  gregarious,  but  are  sometimes  seen  singly,  and 
at  others  in  pairs  ; they  breed  away  from  the  water  in  thick,  grassy  or 
rushy  spots,  and  lay  a number  of  white  eggs,  with  thick,  glossy  shells. 

This  is  a beautiful  bird,  and  is,  no  doubt,  the 
The  Egyptian  Goose,  most  ornamental  of  all  the  geese.  The  head  is 

black  and  gray,  with  a chestnut  colored  patch 
around  the  eyes  ; the  neck  and  back  are  gray  and  black  ; the  breast  is 
chestnut  in  center  and  the  remainder  gray  ; the  body  is  gray  and  black 
on  the  upper  parts,  and  pale  buff  or  yellow,  penciled  with  black  lines,  on 
the  under  parts  ; the  wings  are  white,  horny  spurs,  about  five-eights  of 
an  inch  long  ; the  shoulders  are  white  with  a narrow  black  stripe  or  bar 
of  rich  metallic  lustre  ; the  primaries  and  secondaries  are  glossy  black  , 
tail,  glossy  black  ; thighs,  pale  buff  in  color  ; shanks  and  toes,  reddish 
yellow.  They  breed  well  in  confinement,  but  are  very  quarrelsome  ; the 
gander  will  fight  other  males  of  his  species  to  the  death,  and  is  a perse- 
cutor of  other  inmates  of  the  pond.  It  is  to  be  hoped  that  domestication 
will  modify  this  vicious  disposition  to  some  degree. 

This  variety  is  the  wild  goose  of  America.  As 
The  Canada  Goose,  an  ornamental  water-fowl,  it  has  been  kept  in  many 
places,  but  there  is  no  reason  why  it  should  not  be 
regarded  as  part  of  the  regular  stock  of  the  farm  yard.  It  is  stated  on 
good  authority  that  after  a little  breeding  in  confinement,  they  produce 
much  more  delicate  flesh  than  cither  of  the  common  breeds.  The  head, 
bill  and  greater  part  of  the  neck  are  black,  with  a white  stripe  at  the 
throat.  The  upper  parts  of  the  body  are  a brownish  gray,  with  light 
edges.  The  dark  plumage  of  the  upper  parts  of  body  shades  off  to 
nearly  white  on  the  belly  ; eyes,  gray-brown  ; the  legs  and  feet  blackish 
gray,  or  almost  black. 


TffG  SWAN. 


The  swan  is  a true  ornamental  fowl.  It  is  a familiar  sight  on  all 
lakes  of  the  city  parks,  and  is  perhaps  more  universally  known  than  any 
other  of  its  kind.  Its  beauty  is  fascinating,  and  contrasted  with  the  soft 
tones  of  the  water,  and  outlined  by  the  green  foliage  creates  a picture 
well  worth  the  master’s  hand. 

The  long,  well-curved  neck  and  an  abundant  plumage  are  peculiar 
characteristics  of  the  swan  alone.  Their  graceful  outlines  and  affectionate 
regard  for  each  other  endear  them  to  the  hearts  of*all. 

The  swans,  says  Wright’s  Book  of  Poultry,  like  the  geese  and  ducks, 
have  a very  wide  range,  being  found  in  all  but  actually  equatorial 
regions.  Two  species  at  least  are  common  to  both  Europe  and  America, 
besides  others  more  local  in  their  character  ; but  Australia,  as  might 
have  been  expected  from  its  isolated  position,  has  a well  marked  species 
of  its  own.  Every  race  is  naturally  migratory  in  its  habits,  though  many 


164 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


individuals  will  remain,  especially  in  the  more  temperate  regions,  in  the 
same  localities  throughout  the  year,  only  taking  short  flights  to  and  fro. 
Their  powers  of  flight  are  considerable  when  once  fairly  in  air,  but  the 
rising  appears  to  be  difficult  and  awkward.  They  almost  always,  if  not 
invariably,  rise  from  water,  striking  down  with  both  wings  and  feet,  and 
thus  proceed,  half  flying  and  half  splashing,  for  some  20  to  30  yards 
before  they  fairly  raise  themselves  ; after  which,  however,  they  frequently 
attain  a great  height,  Franklin  stating  that  he  had  seen  them  in  the  polar 
regions  several  thousand  feet  above  the  earth.  They  also  descend  into 
the  water  approaching  it  in  a slanting  direction,  and  stretching  out  their 
broad  webbed  feet  to  check  their  speed  at  the  moment  they  enter  the 
familiar  element. 

Swans  generally  pair  for  life,  their  whole  behavior  offering  a beauti- 
ful example  of  conjugal  fidelity.  The  two  birds  show  the  greatest  affec- 
tion for  each  other,  always  swimming  in  company,  and  caressing  each 
other  with  their  bills  and  necks  in  the  most  interesting  manner,  though 
the  male  is  of  course  the  more  powerful  and  courageous.  Both  birds 
help  to  prepare  the  nest,  the  male  chiefly  gathering  the  materials,  while 
the  female  seems  to  take  the  chief  part  in  the  actual  construction.  The 
nest  is  an  enormous  affair,  being  built  up  of  a large  mass  of  coarse  water 
plants  as  a foundation,  which  is  lined  with  finer  grasses.  In  this  six  to 
nine  eggs  are  generally  laid,  which  are,  of  course,  very  thick  in  shell,  and 
generally  of  a dirty  white  color,  sometimes  pale  green.  The  time  of 
incubation  has  been  differently  stated,  but  we  believe  Bechstein  to  be 
right  in  fixing  it  at  35  days,  though  some  say  42.  The  young  when 
hatched  are  very  thickly  covered  with  down,  and  are  generally  taken  to 
the  water  by  the  mother  when  only  a day  or  two  old.  There  they  are 
watched  over  by  both  parents  with  the  greatest  care  until  grown  enough 
to  take  care  of  themselves. 

About  the  care  of  swans  very  little  can  be  said.  During  the  process 
of  incubation  any  attempt  at  management  is  impossible  and  dangerous. 
During  this  period  the  birds  are  so  intolerant  of  interference  that  even 
the  appearance  of  man  irritates  them.  All  that  can  be  done  is  to  give 
the  birds  a little  grain,  and  see  that  their  privacy  is  not  disturbed. 
Domestication  would  remedy  this  and  make  the  birds  more  amenable  to 
reason,  and  would  increase  the  number  of  eggs.  Considering  the  size  of 
the  birds,  and  the  hardiness  of  the  young,  and  their  excellent  quality,  it 
Is  much  to  be  wished  that  some  serious  attempt  might  be  made  to  breed 
them  more  extensively  for  market  purposes.  When  hatched,  if  very 
wild  the  cygnets  can  be  fed  by  throwing  coarse  oatmeal  or  grit  upon  the 
water,  or  soaked  biscuits  may  be  given  in  the  same  manner  ; but  if  the 
old  birds  are  tame  and  familiar,  they  will  often  bring  the  brood  to  feed 
from  the  trough  placed  at  the  edge  of  the  water,  in  which  the  feed 
should  be  placed,  always  in  water,  as  in  feeding  grain  to  ducks. 

The  five  most  common  breeds  are  the  Mute  swan,  the  Whistling 
swan,  the  Black  swan,  the  Blacknecked  swan  and  the  Bewick’s  swan. 
The  Mute  swan  is  that  so  well  known  upon  our  lakes  and  water  courses 
as  an  ornamental  bird,  and  is  a native  of  Northern  Asia  and  Europe.  It 
is  the  largest  and  most  beautiful  of  all  the  swans,  the  neck  being  very 
long  and  slender.  The  bill  is  red  and  the  large  protuberance  at  the  base 
black  ; the  eye  brown  and  the  legs  and  feet  brownish  or  blackish  gray  ; 
and  the  plumage  all  over  a pure  and  spotless  white;  its  voice  is  soft  and 


POULTRY  BOOK. 


165 


low,  with  a pleasing,  melancholy  tone.  It  is  not  mute  as  its  name 
implies.  The  cygnets  when  hatched,  and  for  a good  while  after,  are  gray. 

The  Whistling  swan  would  more  appropriately  be  called  the  musical 
swan.  The  bill  on  this  species  wants  the  protuberance  of  the  Mute 
swan,  and  is  yellow  ; it  is  also  somewhat  smaller,  and  the  neck  is  con- 
siderably shorter  and  thicker  than  the  Mute  swan.  Its  beautiful  voice  is 
enough  alone  to  make  its  thorough  domestication  worth  a little  trouble. 

After  the  Mute  swan  the  Black  is  the  best  known,  having  been 
imported  from  Australia  many  years  back.  The  eyes  are  scarlet,  the 
legs  black,  the  bill  red,  tipped  with  white  ; the  plumage  is  rather  sooty 
black,  shading  on  the  edges  of  many  of  the  feathers  into  a very  dark 
gray.  In  the  long  and  slender  neck,  and  general  outline,  it  resembles  the 
Mute  swan,  but  is  not  quite  so  large.  The  Black  swan  breeds  freely  and 
the  young  are  hardy.  They  are  established  favorites  on  our  ornamental 
waters  and  in  the  Zoological  gardens. 


THE  BLACK  SWAN. 


The  Blacknecked  swan  is  sometimes  called  the  Chilean  swan.  It  is 
a most  beautiful  bird  and  is  imported  from  South  America.  Its  eyes 
are  brown,  the  bill  lead  color,  with  the  protuberance  (which  is  strongly 
marked  in  this  species)  red  ; the  legs  are  reddish-orange.  The  plumage 
is  pure  white,  except  the  head  and  neck,  which  are  jet  black,  excepting  a 
narrow  streak  of  white  across  the  eye.  In  swimming  the  neck  is  held 
nearly  straight,  like  that  of  the  goose,  not  curved  as  in  most  other  swans. 
The  young  are  said  to  grow  with  immense  rapidity,  which  is  worthy  of 
note  with  a view  to  domestication. 


166 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


Bewick’s  swan  is  a still  smaller  white  bird.  The  neck  is  very  slender, 
but  not  long.  It  is  very  shy  and  timid  in  captivity,  and  we  believe  has 
never  been  bred  in  such  circumstances  ; it  is  indeed  very  difficult  to 
obtain  any  of  the  rarer  swans  in  pairs,  the  specimens  captured  being 
generally  odd  birds  which  have  been  wounded. 


INDEX 


A 

African  Goose 
American  Class 

Dominiques 

Javas 

Jersey  Blues  . 

Plymouth  Rocks 
Wyandottes 
Andalusians 

Apoplexy  .... 

Artificial  Incubation 
Asiatic  Class  .... 
Brahmas  . 

Cochins 
Dark  Brahmas 
Langshans 
Aylesbury  Duck 

B 

Bantam  Class — Other  Than  Game 
Booted  White  Bantams 
Cochin  Bantams 
Japanese  Bantams 
Polish  Bantams 
Rose  Combed  Bantams 
Sebright  Bantams 
Bearded  Golden  Polish  . 

Bearded  Silver  Polish 
Bearded  White  Polish 
Birchen  Games 
Birmingham  Process 
Black  Breasted  Red  Games 
Black  Breasted  Red  Malays 
Black  Cayuga  Duck  . 

Black  East  Indian  Duck 

Black  Rot  .... 

Black  Sumatra  Games  . 

Bones  ..... 
Booted  White  Bantams 
Boston  Globe  Process 
Brahmas  .... 

Bran  as  Food  .... 

Breeds  for  Capons 

Breeds,  The  .... 

Origin  of  the  Domestic  Fowl 
Bronchitis  .... 
Brown  Red  Games 
Buff  Laced  Polish 
Building  the  House 
Bumblefoot  . 

c 

Cabbage  .... 

Call  Duck  .... 
Campines  .... 
Canada  Goose  .... 
Canker  .... 
Capons  as  Mothers 
Caponizing 

Breeds  for  Capons 
Capons  as  Mothers 
Dressing  Capons  for  Market 
How  to  Caponize 
Instruments  for  Caponizing 
Time  to  Caponize 
Catarrh  ..... 
Cheap  House,  A 
Chick.  The  . 

Chinese  Goose 

Cholera  ..... 
Clover  .... 

Clover  Chaff  .... 
Cochins  .... 

Cochin  Bantams 
Cold  Weather  Management 
Colored  Dorkings 
Common  Goose 


Condiments  .....  11 

Consumption  . . . . .93 

Cooked  Food  . 46 

Corn  ......  52 

Cramp — Rheumatism  ...  93 

Creve  Coeurs  .....  131 

Crested  White  Duck  ....  157 

Crop-Bound  .....  94 

D 

Dark  Brahmas  ....  115 

Diarrhoea — Dysentery  . . . .94 

Diseases  .....  89 

Apoplexy  . . . .90 

Black  Rot  ....  90 

Bronchitis  . . . .90 

Bumblefoot  ....  91 

Canker  .....  91 

Catarrh  ....  91 

Cholera  .....  91 

Consumption  ...  93 

Cramp — Rheumatism  . . .93 

Crop-Bound  ....  94 

Diarrhoea — Dysentery  . . .94 

Egg-Bound  . . 95 

Egg-Eating  ....  95 

Feather-Eating  ...  95 

Frost  Bites  . . . .95 

Gapes  .....  96 

Giddiness  . . . .9? 

Gout  .....  97 

Indigestion  . . . .97 

Leg  Weakness  ...  97 

Lice 97 

Liver  Disease  ...  99 

Pip 99 

Rheumatism  ....  99 

Roup  .....  99 

Scaly  Legs  (Elephantiasis)  . 100 

Soft  Eggs  . . . .101 

Ulceration  ....  101 

Worms 102 

Dominiques  .....  Ill 

Double  House,  A . . . . .68 

Drawn  and  Undrawn  Poultry  . . 15 

Dressing  Capons  for  Market  . . .85 

Dressing  and  Marketing  ...  16 

Ducks  ......  153 

Aylesburjr  ....  155 

Black  Cayuga  ....  156 

Black  East  India  . . . 155 

Call 156 

Crested  White  . . . 157 

Mallard  .....  155 

Mandarin  ....  158 

Muscovy  .....  158 

Pekin  .....  157 

Rouen  .....  157 

Wood 157 

Duckwing  Games  ....  137 

E 

Egg,  The 23 

Egg-Bound  .....  95 

Egg-Eating 95 

Egyptian  Goose  .....  163 

Embden  Goose  ....  161 

English  Class  .....  133 

Colored  Dorkings  . . . 133 

Silver  Gray  Dorkings  . . . 133 

White  Dorkings  . . . 133 

Ensilage  ......  48 

Exercise  .....  8 

F 

Fattening  Poultry  ....  13 

Feather-Eating  ....  95 


161 

107 

11 

110 

111 

107 

109 

122 

90 

2" 

113 

113 

116 

115 

118 

155 

141 

142 

142 

142 

142 

141 

141 

125 

125 

125 

137 

78 

136 

139 

156 

155 

90 

144 

54 

142 

77 

il3 

45 

82 

103 

103 

90 

136 

125 

5 

91 

49 

156 

129 

163 

91 

86 

81 

82 

86 

85 

84 

82 

82 

91 

67 

39 

162 

91 

47 

46 

116 

142 

20 

133 

161 


168 


THE  AMERICAN  FANCIER’S 


Feeding  for  Eggs 

63 

Reference  Table 

65 

French  Class  .... 

131 

Creve  Coeurs 

131 

Houdans 

131 

La  Fleche 

131 

French  Farmer  Process 

77 

Frizzled  Fowls  .... 

146 

Frost  Bites  .... 

95 

G 

Game  Bantams  .... 

139 

Game  Fowl,  The 

135 

Game,  and  Game  Bantam  Class 

135 

Birchen  Games 

137 

Black  Breasted  Red  Games  . 

136 

Black  Breasted  Red  Malays 

139 

Brown  Red  Games 

136 

Duckwing  Games 

137 

Game  Bantams  . 

139 

Game  Fowl,  The 

135 

Indian  Games 

137 

Red  Pile  Games 

137 

White  and  Black  Games 

137 

Gapes  ..... 

. 96 

Geese  ..... 

159 

African 

161 

Canada  .... 

163 

Chinese 

162 

Common  .... 

161 

Egyptian 

163 

Embden  .... 

161 

Gray-Lag 

160 

Sebastopol 

161 

Spur-Winged 

162 

Toulouse  .... 

161 

General  Management 

5 

Building  the  House 

5 

Cold  Weather  Management 

20 

Condiments 

11 

Drawn  and  Undrawn  Poultry 

15 

Dressing  and  Marketing 

16 

Exercise 

8 

Fattening  Poultry 

13 

In-Breeding 

14 

Moulting  .... 

10 

Over-Feeding 

7 

Oyster  Shells  and  Grit 

9 

Regular  Feeding 

7 

Selecting  a Breed 

6 

Shipping  Eggs 

17 

Supply  of  Water,  The 

8 

Warm  Weather  Management 

19 

Giddiness  ..... 

97 

Golden  Polish 

125 

Good  House,  A 

73 

Gout  ..... 

97 

Gray-Lag  Goose  .... 

160 

Ground  Meat  .... 

48 

H 

Hamburg  Class  .... 

128 

Campines 

129 

Hamburgs 

128 

Red  Caps 

129 

Hamburgs  ..... 

128 

Havana  Process 

76 

Home  Made  Brooder 

32 

Houdans  .... 

131 

House  Building  .... 

67 

Cheap  House  . . , 

67 

Double  House 

68 

Good  House 

73 

House  for  Laying  Hens 

69 

Roomy  House 

72 

Well  Arranged  House 

70 

Home  for  Lajfing  Hens 

69 

How  to  Caponize  .... 

84 

I 


In-Breeding  .... 

14 

Incubation  ..... 

25 

Artificial  Incubation 

27 

Home  Made  Brooder 

32 

Lamp  and  Tank  Brooder  . 

33 

Natural  Incubation 

25 

Practical  Brooder 

. 34 

Tank  Brooder 

Index  ..... 
Indian  Games 

Indigestion  .... 
Instruments  for  Caponizing 

J 

Japanese  Bantams 

Javas  .... 

Jersey  Blues  .... 

K 

Keeping  Eggs 

Birmingham  Process 
Boston  Globe  Process  . 
French  Farmer  Process 
Havana  Process 
Moore's,  Mrs.,  Process 
Poultry  Yard  Process  . 
Prairie  Farmer  Process 
Scientific  American  Process 
Sulphur  Process 

E 

La  Fleche  .... 

Lamp  and  Tank  Brooder 

Langshans 

Lawn  Clippings 

Leghorns  .... 

Leg  Weakness 

Lice  ..... 
Lime  ..... 
Linseed  Meal 

Liver  Disease  .... 

M 

Mallard  Duck  . . 

Mandarin  Duck 
Mediterranean  Class 

Andalusians  . , 

Black  Spanish 
Leghorns 
Minorcas  .. 

Milk 

Millet  .... 

Minorcas  .... 

Miscellaneous  Class 

Black  Sumatra  Games 
Frizzled  Fowls 
Naked  Necks 
Rumpless  Fowls 
Russians 
Silky  Fowls 
Sultans 

Yokohama  Fowls 
Moore’s,  Mrs.,  Process 
Moulting  .... 
Muscovy  Duck 

N 

Naked  Necks 
Natural  Incubation 

o 

Oats  .... 

Origin  of  the  Domestic  Fowl 
Over-Feeding 
Oyster  Shells  and  Grit 


P 

Pekin  Duck 
Pip  ... 
Plymouth  Rocks 
Polish  Bantams 
Polish  Class 

Bearded  Golden 
Bearded  Silver 
Bearded  White 
Buff  Laced 
Golden 
Silver 
White  . 

White  Crested  Black 
Poultry  Industry 


37 

167 

137 

97 

82: 


142 

110 

111 


75 

I8 

77 

77 

76 
79 

77 

78 
76 
75 


131 

33 

118 

50 

119 

97 

97 

55 

56 
99 


155 

158 

119 

122 

123 

119 

122 

51 

49 

122 

144 

144 

146 

148 

146 

144 

145 

145 

146 
79 
10 

158 


148 

25 


52 

103 

9 


157 

99 

107 

142 

125 

125 

125 

125 

125 

125 

125 

125 

125 

1 


POULTRY  BOOK.  169 


Poultry  Yard  Process 

77 

Selecting  a Breed 

6 

Practical  Brooder 

34 

Shipping  Eggs 

17 

Prairie  Farmer  Process 

78 

Silky  Fowls 

. 145 

Silver  Gray  Dorkings 

133 

R 

Silver  Polish 

. 125 

Soft  Eggs 

101 

Recipes  for  Feeding-  . 

45 

Spanish  (Black) 

. 123 

Bones 

54 

Spur-Winged  Goose  . 

162 

Bran  as  Food 

45 

Sulphur  Process  . 

75 

Cabbage 

49 

Sultans  . 

145 

Clover  . 

47 

Sunflower  Seeds 

50 

Clover  Chaff 

46 

Supply  of  Water 

8 

Cooked  Food 

46 

Swan,  The  . 

. 163 

Corn 

52 

Ensilage 

48 

T 

Ground  Meat 

48 

Lawn  Clippings 

50 

Tank  Brooder  . 

37 

Lime 

55 

Time  toCaponize 

82 

Linseed  Meal 

56 

Toulouse  Goose 

161 

Milk 

51 

Turkeys 

. 149 

Millet  . 

49 

Oats 

52 

u 

Sunflower  Seeds 

50 

Wheat 

52 

Ulceration 

101 

Red  Caps 

129 

Red  Pile  Game 

. 137 

w 

Reference  Table 

65 

Regular  Feeding  . 

7 

Warm  Weather  Management  . 

19 

Rheumatism 

99 

Waterfowl 

153 

Roomy  House 

72 

Well  Arranged  House 

70 

Rose  Combed  Bantams 

. . 141 

Wheat 

52 

Rouen  Duck 

. 157 

White  and  Black  Games 

. 137 

Roup  .... 

99 

White  Crested  Black  Polish 

125 

Rumpless  Fowls  . 

. 146 

White  Dorkings 

. 133 

Russians 

144 

White  Polish 

125 

Wood  Duck 

. -157 

S 

Worms 

102 

Wyandottes 

. 109 

Scaly  Legs  (Elephantiasis) 

. 100 

Scientific  American  Process 

76 

Y 

Sebastopol  Goose 

. 161 

Sebright  Bantams 

141  1 

Yokohama  Fowls 

146 

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Enlarged  and  Revised  # 


THE  SECOND 
EDITION  OF 


MONEY  IN 


By  J.  C.  LONG  and  G.  H.  BRINTON, 

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It  Is  the  Handsomest 
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Pigeons, Plans  of  Single, 
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Av  i a r i e s to  a Garret 
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GEORGE  E.  HOWARD  & CO., 


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The  “Ringlets”  Soar  Still  hjigher 

AT  NEW  YORK,  FEBRUARY,  1898, 

E.  B.  Thompson's  Barred  Plymouth  Rocks 

Again  won  all  the  Sweep- 
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A Boon  to  Pigeon  Flyers 

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THE  MOST  MONEYS 

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(EARTHENWARE. 


The  only  fountain  that  every  poultryman  should  use,  as  it  is 
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out  with  hand  or  brush,  the  water  becomes  polluted,  and  thus 
the  result  is  a great  many  diseases. 


Prices,  1 qt.  25c;  2 qt.  35c;  4 qfc.  50c;  H qt.  75c. 


Special  Prices  by  the  Dozen. 


WIRE  HENS’  NESTS. 

Here  is  something  that  has  been  wanted  for  some  time.  These 
Nests  are  strongly  made  from  heavy  wire  and  will  last  a lifetime. 
It  is  apparent  at  the  first  glance  that  lice  have  no  harboring  place 
in  them.  Every  poultryman  should  have  them  in  his  establish- 
ment. 

Prices,  15c  each,  or  $1.50  per  dozen. 


ROYAL  LEG  BflNDS 

For  poifltry  and  for  pigeons,  are  fast  taking  the  place  of  all  others. 
Try  them.  Sizes  for  all  breeds.  In  ordering  state  what  breed,  and  how 
you  wish  them  marked.  We  will  make  special  sizes  without  extra 
charge. 

i doz.  25c;  2 doz.  40c;  5 doz.  90;  100  for  $1.25. 


Our  immense  Illustrated  Catalogue  FREE.  Send  for  one. 


Address 


28  Vesey  St.,  New  York  City. 


W.  V.  RUSS,  Prop. 


I 


UNIVERSITY  OF  ILLINOIS-URBANA 


